Sous le Vent

[sables]

Received a new bottle of "Sous le Vent" from Guerlain Paris yesterday and all I can say is: WOW!!!
This rendition of the bitter/green chypre category is truly amazing and one of the best fragrances I´ve smelled so far!
Along with Mitsouko (dry peach added), Carthusia Numero Uno (rosemary), Xpec Original (fennel and ginger) and Pour Monsieur, Chanel (lemon and verbena) this IS quintessentially chypre!
Lasting power: good, but not excellent
Guerlain-Service: Perfect!
Price tag: 200 € for 125ml Edt, plus 25 € shipping costs.............. veeerrrry expensive!!!

[mikeperez23]

I've been waiting for a guy to talk about Sous le Vent here on the mens board - I've heard such good things about it, and for you to mention it in the same class as Numero Uno by Carthusia made me perk up my ears.

The price sounds like this will be something I could never afford, but it would be neat to sample one day.

I heard that in the dry down (after the vanilla and amber middle notes fade) that it's slightly indolic. Would you agree?

[JaimeB]

I've been waiting for a guy to talk about Sous le Vent here on the mens board - I've heard such good things about it, and for you to mention it in the same class as Numero Uno by Carthusia made me perk up my ears.

The price sounds like this will be something I could never afford, but it would be neat to sample one day.

I heard that in the dry down (after the vanilla and amber middle notes fade) that it's slightly indolic. Would you agree?

It is a little indolic, but mostly green and chypré. It was developed for Josephine Baker in 1933. There's a brief review in my blog.

[sables]

It is a little indolic, but mostly green and chypré.

I agree. Maybe there´s a little civet in the background, but well balanced and not at all offensive - like a little cat tiptoeing in a lush meadow...

[L'Aventurier]

I just tried this and..... OMG. Smells to me a bit like Mitsouko, but softer, more subtle and fresher (due to a citrus and herbal kick). My half-assed description doesn't do it justice at all, but MAN. I love this stuff! Totally unisex and enjoyable for a man.

I haven't had this kind of reaction to a fragrance in a long while. I'm so glad houses like Guerlain are still releasing frags like this.

[Kevin Guyer]

I've been waiting for a guy to talk about Sous le Vent here on the mens board - I've heard such good things about it, and for you to mention it in the same class as Numero Uno by Carthusia made me perk up my ears.

The price sounds like this will be something I could never afford, but it would be neat to sample one day.

I heard that in the dry down (after the vanilla and amber middle notes fade) that it's slightly indolic. Would you agree?

Earth to Mike: I gave you samples of this last year. You were with me when I bought it in Palm Beach Guerlain. You liked it, I remember.

[mikeperez23]

Earth to Mike: I gave you samples of this last year. You were with me when I bought it in Palm Beach Guerlain. You liked it, I remember.

LOL, yes Rug's - you see my comments above, were from last year too. This thread's been bumped.

[Kevin Guyer]

LOL, yes Rug's - you see my comments above, were from last year too. This thread's been bumped.

In my best Emily Litella voice, "Never mind."

[odysseusm]

Bumped or no, here's my 2cents. SLV is a very classy, enjoyable green chypre. I like it a lot. I don't find it problematically indolic. It wears well throughout the day.

[Merlino]

LOL, yes Rug's - you see my comments above, were from last year too. This thread's been bumped.

Which begs the question, why didn't you post your comments?



I'd like to try this one, but I have bad experiences with Guerlain EDTs in the sense that I generally find them very weak and lacking in longevity even for EDTs. How do you guys feel about this one in terms of projection and longevity?

[scent]

I've been meaning to start a new Sous le Vent thread these past couple of days because of a funny incident that happened to me. I've had a tiny .5ml sample from TPC for over a year now, but have always dismissed SlV because it was simply too green and crisp (not my kinda thing); mind you I was dabbing from the sample. A few days ago, I found my SlV sample on my top dresser with a tiny (.3ml) left, so I thought what the hell, let's just dump this sucker on my hand. So after waiting a few seconds to smell, I did and boy oh boy, I got something totally different from green and citrusy. I got an intensely animalic almost indolic floral in the manner of AG's Heure Exquise and Voilette de Madame, only with a very refined civet note, not as fecal as Jicky. I now kick myself for not buying a bottle of SlV when I was in Paris, or even giving it the chance of a liberal application. SlV now goes to the the TOP of my MUST-buy list!
I wonder if any of you got the animalic feel to SlV?
EDIT: and for an EDT, it sure lasted long and projected exemplary sillage.

[Mr. G]

Only complaint about this evoking scent (it was also Jean-Paul Guerlain's childhood fetish, he described how it haunted him with reveries of ships and exotic islands): This IFRA compliant version leans more to the fougère side than was intended - it's very prominent of lavender and not enough oakmoss and green resins to give it the famous bitter scent of Cyprus But still a wonderful scent. I would agree with Merlino and say that - although I generally don't have any problems with the Guerlain EdT's longevity - this one should only have been released as extrait (but then again, I'm sure it was not possible with the ingredient restrictions).

[petruccijc]

IMO, the smell is truly fantastic - but the longevity is horrible.

[N_Tesla]

If Guerlain would start manufacturing juice in the United States they would benefit by paying less French tax, no interference from IFRA and we would benefit from better alcohol used in the process. Move the Eiffel tower over here and get to to the business of perfumerie. Send the unleaded version to France to make IFRA happy. IFRA regulation just burns me up.Sous le Vent should be what it should be, not some synthetic close approximation, just as should be all the classics. Wow there goes my blood pressure. Sorry I just get emotional about this IFRA thing.

[mikeperez23]

Which begs the question, why didn't you post your comments?

Good point: It's extremely hard for me to 'review' a Guerlain - it takes me several wearings and lots of concentration. I love, love, love Sous Le Vent. Explaining it, in a review, is a different story. I hope to get more juice (my samples are all gone) and write up a proper review.

IMO, the closest scent to it is Philtre d' Amour, another favorite of mine. Problem is, it's just as expensive as SLV.

True story: When Ruggles met Ray and I in Provincetown, one day we were walking around Commercial Street visiting some shops, art galleries, etc. I was following Ruggles in the wind and he smelled fantastic. I thought he was wearing Sous Le Vent, since I knew that he owned some. He told me he was wearing Eau de Rochas (the feminine). It surprised me, because I could clearly smell the 'green chypre' accord in the air and it did smell kind of Guerlinade-ish. Which of course, made me want to try Eau de Rochas.

[kumquat]

Sous les Vent is fantastic. One of my Holy Grail scents. A real thing of beauty. I didn't think of the IRFA thing, though. I wonder if the (more expensive) bottles now at Neiman's are full-strength from Paris or wood alcohol import versions.

[Merlino]

Send the unleaded version to France to make IFRA happy. IFRA regulation just burns me up.

The IFRA is a conspiracy by the fragrance industry itself, not by the European Union or anything. So packing up shop and moving to The States will do us bugger all good...

Good point: It's extremely hard for me to 'review' a Guerlain - it takes me several wearings and lots of concentration. I love, love, love Sous Le Vent. Explaining it, in a review, is a different story. I hope to get more juice (my samples are all gone) and write up a proper review.

I perfectly get what you mean, the old Guerlains are really the best at evoking images and also emotions, imho. I've been having trouble putting into words how I feel about them, too!

[nsamadi]

Tried this today. I didn't like the initial blast. It's old fashion for sure. Makes me want to watch a black and white film on a projector. When it dried down, that's when I began to like it. Sweet light chypre. Reminds me of Cologne pour Le Soir, same feel and vibe but with citrus notes.

It does remind me of Mitsouko or Jicky. I'm guessing it's a house note. Overall, I like it and it makes me want to explore the Guerlain line more.

I did 9 sprays with a sample atomizer. It seems like a 4-6 hour scent.

4/5

[Primrose]

If you enjoy SLV, you must also try Derby, the men's take on SLV.

[mrclmind]

I like both SLV and Derby. Each smell appropriate for men and women.

[mr. reasonable]

I have been circling a bottle of this over the last few weeks - tried it a couple of times at the Guerlain counter. It is beautiful.

To me it fits inside an axis that contains Philtre d'Amour, Eau de Guerlain & Derby . . . a classic.

[rickbr]

I have been circling a bottle of this over the last few weeks - tried it a couple of times at the Guerlain counter. It is beautiful.

To me it fits inside an axis that contains Philtre d'Amour, Eau de Guerlain & Derby . . . a classic.

If you like Philtre d'Amour, buy it soon, because it will be discontinued shortly

[mr. reasonable]

I didn't know that, thanks - I did buy a bottle of Philtre d'Amour several months ago because there was only one here, so I guess I got lucky

[rickbr]

I didn't know that, thanks - I did buy a bottle of Philtre d'Amour several months ago because there was only one here, so I guess I got lucky

Very lucky i think. Philtre d'Amour and Sous Le Vent are delicious, and I also see the connection between them as you pointed above. Sous Le Vent seems to go more on the chypre direction i think, and there is something on it, maybe the carnation accord, which also reminds me off the limited edition called Terracotta.

[Pour_Monsieur]

I love it , its great isnt it , and Im still kicking myself for not buying Mimi's bottle earlier this year . Its the polar opposite of most of my wardrobe but I find it completely compelling . OK so the longevity of it is just shocking but its a lovely journey while it lasts

[mikeperez23]

Tried this today. I didn't like the initial blast. It's old fashion for sure. Makes me want to watch a black and white film on a projector. When it dried down, that's when I began to like it. Sweet light chypre. Reminds me of Cologne pour Le Soir, same feel and vibe but with citrus notes.

It does remind me of Mitsouko or Jicky. I'm guessing it's a house note. Overall, I like it and it makes me want to explore the Guerlain line more.

Well SLV is, in itself, a classic chypre fragrance. Of course, to many people this smells 'old'. But once I have explored the chypre category, the leathers...the fruity...the oriental chypres...the floral/aldehydic ones...you start to realize that the chypre accord is very instantly recognizable and is a platform upon which so many different shades and textures can be built on.

I do love Mitsouko, but Sous le Vent is so darn happy and bright...it makes me smile when I put it on. It has a soft breeziness to it, that the Mitsouko and Derby don't have. Of course, many people find this particular brightness sort of 'feminine' and although I no longer think in these sort of terms I see what people mean. But still, I wear SLV to my office all of the time, and I've never had anyone remark that I smell feminine.

It is one of the Guerlain scents that I get the most excited about.

I have been circling a bottle of this over the last few weeks - tried it a couple of times at the Guerlain counter. It is beautiful.

To me it fits inside an axis that contains Philtre d'Amour, Eau de Guerlain & Derby . . . a classic.

I agree with the comparison to Philtre d'Amour and Eau de Guerlain (although PdA is technically not a chypre) but I do not smell the similarity to Derby.

[WillBell]

OK, here goes my two cents: I tried SLV for the first time this past weekend, and it has moved right up the list to a must buy. I have read some talk about the lack of longevity -- that is not my experience. It lasted quite well on my skin, and the sillage was also good. I did not find it to be indolic at all. It was bright, green, spicy, at times powdery, but not indolic. I love the scent. It is the feminine derby if you will and I love it. $310 will make it a bit pricy. Ah well, either pack my coffin with the money left or douse by corpse with SLV, Derby, Sycomore......he died smelling great.

[mr. reasonable]

Sous le Vent has pretty much become my default setting over this last year or so - 'most worn' for Spring & Summer. It offers the kick up front I like from a quality Eau wich is then given substance with a Chypre like form welling up from underneath. I can only assume this is what Chanel Pour Monsieur, Eau Sauvage and some of the other more citrus inclined masculine classics offered once upon a time before they were hobbled? It works comfortably for a day or so in the warmer weather - I'm very, very happy with it. I haven't bought much else this year, just a back-up or two because my experience is that when I find something I really like it tends to disappear . . . feel perfectly free to laugh all you like

The other one that does a similar job (but differently) that I recommend to anyone who likes the 'feel' of SLV is L'Heure Fougueuse from Cartier. Also breezy (pun not intended but inevitable) and outdoorsy and great in the heat, but instead of citrus and herbal / moss this one plays with a hay-like Maté note. I did a mini-review in the Missing Fragrances section and Grain de Musc & Bois de Jasmin both talk about it.

[hednic]

My wife likes this one a lot and wears it from time to time.

[mikeperez23]

I agree mr. reasonable - a great fragrance! Just last night, while I was moving my 'summer' fragrances to storage and pulling out my 'fall/winter' fragrances, I opened up my brand new box/bottle of Sous le Vent just to stare at it and see how beautiful it is, with that art deco bottle and the gold wrapped cord around the neck in that shimmery gold Guerlain box. Stunning. I keep putting off opening it up because its such a beautiful presentation. But of course once my decant runs out I will open it. I hope to always have this in my wardrobe.