Consider the source of that statement - a reporter who knows almost nothing about fragrance chemistry.the author of the review writes that the smell of a rose "can't be chemically extracted from the flower. (It's possible to extract rose oil, but rose oil doesn't quite smell like a rose.) To create the fragrance of a rose, you must sythesize it from other molecules..."
While it is true that rose absolutes and essential oils don't smell exactly of a living rose neither do any of the rose bases compounded and sold by the fragrance chemical houses.
If cost is no object then most perfumers will use natural flower absolutes and essential oils and probably also synthetics to augment the naturals.