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  1. #1

    Smile NowSmellThis Editorial: De gustibus non est disputandum

    De gustibus non est disputandum ~ random thoughts on perfume snobbery

    "I'll be the first to admit that sometimes I get more excited about niche fragrances than I do about mainstream fragrances. The mainstream brands, many of them, are investing millions upon millions on their new launches. They aren't as likely to take risks, and since they're all trying to speak to the same audience, it isn't any surprise that many of the fragrances smell dispiritingly similar. I treasure my little niche oddities. But does that mean that niche fragrances are "better"? I certainly don't think so."
    An excellent editorial at Now Smell This, about how perfume snobbery can lead to a subconscious preference for niche scents and/or a dislike for celebrity endorsed scents and mass market fragrances. Well worth a read!

    http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/b...0/3567031.html
    Last edited by Stereotomy; 10th March 2008 at 07:12 PM.
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  2. #2
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: NowSmellThis Editorial: De gustibus non est disputandum

    Good article. Thanks.

  3. #3

    tang's Avatar
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    Default Re: NowSmellThis Editorial: De gustibus non est disputandum

    I often wonder how some highly praised Creed fragrances would fare if they had been bottled and marketed with Britney Spears' name instead. Would those who swear by Creed now still recognize the supposedly inherent quality if the exact same fragrance was put out (!) by Paris Hilton?

    Interesting article... thanks for sharing!

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    ChrisW's Avatar
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    Default Re: NowSmellThis Editorial: De gustibus non est disputandum

    I read it over lunch, I thought it was excellent as well.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: NowSmellThis Editorial: De gustibus non est disputandum

    Wonderful article - I read it on the blog earlier today and I felt like saying 'Amen' when I finished reading it.

  6. #6

    Default Re: NowSmellThis Editorial: De gustibus non est disputandum

    I'm quite new to the fragrance hobby, but thanks to some self-imposed snobism I had yet to sniff Acqua di Gio on my skin. When I finally did, last week, it blew me away. I don't care much for the rest of the top 10 scents in my country (Le Male, Armani Code, Cool Water, Jil Sander Men, Allure Homme Sport etc.) but I really-really like Acqua di Gio.

    But it's quite inherent to the fragrance hobby that you don't want to smell like every one else!

    Anyway, I broke down. I bought a bottle of Acqua di Gio on eBay. 'Because the dollar's so low,' I told myself. *sob* But I'm looking forward wearing it.
    Last edited by Stereotomy; 10th March 2008 at 09:39 PM.
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    Wanted: L' Artisan Timbuktu or Fragonard Concerto

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  7. #7
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    Default Re: NowSmellThis Editorial: De gustibus non est disputandum

    So often I'll buy a big house release and be sorely disappointed. Fool me once... ummm

    Fool me once.... ahh shit how's that go??

  8. #8

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    Default Re: NowSmellThis Editorial: De gustibus non est disputandum

    Quote Originally Posted by Stereotomy View Post
    An excellent editorial at Now Smell This, about how perfume snobbery can lead to a subconscious preference for niche scents and/or a dislike for celebrity endorsed scents and mass market fragrances. Well worth a read!
    Thank you Stereotomy! Who is Robin ? I have read this and more from Robin on NST, and it was never a minute wasted, even when I did not agree. He is not the only great editor there, is he? In this article I wish he had named some niche crap to make his point even clearer . OK - I won't even apologize for this: My preference for niche is a rather conscious one. It evolved over the past years, almost at the end of a long journey. And Creed is just like Caron, Guerlain, SMN, and d'Orsay: an old perfume house sitting on a rich heritage - anything but niche.
    Last edited by narcus; 11th March 2008 at 06:02 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  9. #9

    Default Re: NowSmellThis Editorial: De gustibus non est disputandum

    A wonderful article that makes many good points in a differentiated way. Even the acutest critic, though superior in experience and knowledge, cannot guarantee you will like his recommendation. The frames of reference for what is good or bad are simply too diverse.
    That doesn't mean all judgments are equally valid. I recall drinking a red Zinfandel at a wine tasting center in Lodi. The bottle was nearly empty and it had serious TCA contamination from cork. The server said I was the first person to point it out. I suppose there are perfume consumers out there so ignorant they couldn't tell the smell of a rancid essential oil from "exotic neroli over white musk."
    I do think that the percentage of good (i.e. quality ingedient, carefully crafted, artisitc vision) perfumes among niches is far higher than the percentage of such perfumes among mass market frags, but on the other hand, the recent explosion in the number of niche lines has lress to do with a quality offensive then with a new class consciousness among the wealthy seeking means of distinction. So Luca Turin and Thorsten Veblen are equally important to understanding the perfume market.
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  10. #10
    ChrisW's Avatar
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    Default Re: NowSmellThis Editorial: De gustibus non est disputandum

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    Thank you Stereotomy! Who is Robin ? I have read this and more from Robin on NST, and it was never a minute wasted, even when I did not agree. He is not the only great editor there, is he? In this article I wish he had named some niche crap to make his point even clearer . OK - I won't even apologize for this: My preference for niche is a rather conscious one. It evolved over the past years, almost at the end of a long journey. And Creed is just like Caron, Guerlain, SMN, and d'Orsay: an old perfume house sitting on a rich heritage - anything but niche.
    Robin is a she! Many of her recent reviews are about female fragrances, but they have some new contributors covering men's fragrances. I wonder if Kevin is a member at Basenotes. I really liked the He Says, She Says format that Robin used to do with Marlen (Scenteur7 aka PerfumeCritic.com) I always vote for NowSmellThis in the Basenotes Awards.

  11. #11
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: NowSmellThis Editorial: De gustibus non est disputandum

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    ...I suppose there are perfume consumers out there so ignorant they couldn't tell the smell of a rancid essential oil from "exotic neroli over white musk."...
    Sounds like something that could be solved on the David Letterman show.
    Last edited by pluran; 11th March 2008 at 08:43 AM.

  12. #12

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: NowSmellThis Editorial: De gustibus non est disputandum

    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisW View Post
    Robin is a she! Many of her recent reviews are about female fragrances, but they have some new contributors covering men's fragrances. I wonder if Kevin is a member at Basenotes. I really liked the He Says, She Says format that Robin used to do with Marlen (Scenteur7 aka PerfumeCritic.com) I always vote for NowSmellThis in the Basenotes Awards.
    Oh, thank you Chris! I only knew masculine robins so far . Robin modestly calls herself 'just a blogger'... The 'he says / she says' reviews were fun. I wish they had a podium in a regular magazine, like T. It's a shame: there are many bloggers who really have things to say, yet the general public never hears them. Ah well, at least Tina (Sanchez) is a book author now - even married her co-author! Kevin is the other one I had on mind. He(?) also writes well (Kouros) .
    Last edited by narcus; 11th March 2008 at 10:58 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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