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  1. #1

    Default I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    I once sampled Nostalgia and it seemed to be a little headachy for some reason. In particular, I am interested in anyone who can tell me about Gold Musk and Russian Colonge. Thanks!

  2. #2

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    This article is a good overview of the house:
    http://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-c...ven-scent.html

    Unfortunately the reviews directory is down, but this thread might help:
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=200041
    -

  3. #3

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Thanks ZZ!

  4. #4

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Even though you didn't ask about it, I have to put in a shameless plug for Potpourri while we're on the SMN subject. As I've said before and I'll say here again, imagine mentholated bay rum with tons of rosemary. Very old school, unisex, Continental brew here, and not for the faint of heart. I happen to ADORE it, but by no means does everyone. A definitive try-before-you-buy kind of frag, this beauty.
    Last edited by tvlampboy; 23rd March 2008 at 07:30 PM.

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  5. #5

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by tvlampboy View Post
    Even though you didn't ask about it, I have to put in a shameless plug for Potpourri while we're on the SMN subject. As I've said before and I'll say here again, imagine mentholated bay rum with tons of rosemary. Very old school, unisex, Continental brew here, and not for the faint of heart. I happen to ADORE it, but by no means does everyone. A definitive try-before-you-buy kind of frag, this beauty.
    Thanks for that, I think i'm going to grab a sample of it (trying out samples with the whole Aedes 7 for $15 thing) The name initially put me off, as I thought it would generally smell like bad quality run of the mill synthetic potpourri

  6. #6

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Anyone know where I can get some samples from this house? Thanks!

  7. #7

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by akshay03 View Post
    Anyone know where I can get some samples from this house? Thanks!
    Aedes has a sample service:

    www.aedes.com

  8. #8

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Potpourri is on my shopping list for the bedroom. SMN Peau d'Espagne is the holy grail among all quality leathers. But be warned, most people find it too old, too tarry and heavy. You also have to like the numbing kind of carnation as in Antaeus. I simply love that there are still perfumes completely not in tune with modern times. This smells as if it had escaped the wrath of Savonarola, and one drop only will do for the day.
    Last edited by narcus; 24th March 2008 at 06:24 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  9. #9

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    Potpourri is on my shopping list for the bedroom. SMN Peau d'Espagne is the holy grail among all quality leathers. But be warned, most people find it too old, too tarry and heavy. You also have to like the numbing kind of carnation as in Antaeus. I simply love that there are still perfumes completely not in tune with modern times. This smells as if it had escaped the wrath of Savonarola, and one drop only will do for the day.
    That sounds divine and an interesting way to put it!

  10. #10

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Acqua di Cuba is hardcore tobacco like a fine cigar. Awesome stuff.
    Check the out here:
    http://www.lafcony.com/smn/
    Oriscent, AgarAura Pure Ouds, Creed, LIDGE, Patou Pour Homme, tons of niche and rare stuff for sale!
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/253...er-100-items!!

  11. #11

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by Azsmells View Post
    Acqua di Cuba is hardcore tobacco like a fine cigar. Awesome stuff.
    Check the out here:
    http://www.lafcony.com/smn/
    I could be wrong but, didn't they relace AdC with Toscano?

  12. #12

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by Scentologist View Post
    I could be wrong but, didn't they relace AdC with Toscano?
    I recently received samples of AdC and Toscano. As far as I know, both are still available.

    I sampled AdC last week and thought it was better than C&S Cuba and Havana.

    I tried the Toscano this afternoon and it blows everything else away. One spray on the top of my hand over seven hours ago and it is still going strong! Toscano has just become a must-have fragrance for me!
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  13. #13

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    TwoRoads, have you tried the gold musk and russian colonge? If so, what are your thoughts?

  14. #14

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by Scentologist View Post
    TwoRoads, have you tried the gold musk and russian colonge? If so, what are your thoughts?
    I have a sample of Russa (Russian Cologne) that I have not tried yet. I have not tried Gold Musk (don't have a sample either). I will give you my thoughts on Russian Cologne whenever I get a chance to try it properly.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  15. #15

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoRoads View Post
    I tried the Toscano this afternoon and it blows everything else away. One spray on the top of my hand over seven hours ago and it is still going strong! Toscano has just become a must-have fragrance for me!
    Now this sounds interesting, particularly as it comes from a man who carefully phrases praise and criticism alike. Please, what is Toscano about, TwoRoads?
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  16. #16

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Colonia Russa is a magic blend of bitter orange and balsamic/ambery notes.

    It is both uplifting and melanchonic/nostalgic, a classic gentleman scent of old school.

    I use it in the cold season as a signature scent, while in summer I tend to switch to Sicilia or Neroli, for a fresher scent, when I'm in the mood for oranges (it happens quite often to me).

    The lasting power is not bad, but like many colognes not outstanding (4 - 5 hours and sometimes more).


  17. #17

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    Now this sounds interesting, particularly as it comes from a man who carefully phrases praise and criticism alike. Please, what is Toscano about, TwoRoads?
    My reaction surprised me as well!

    My nose is not very sophisticated, but Toscano gave me the impression of sitting in a well-worn leather armchair at dusk smoking a cigar (Toscano, presumably) while looking out over a vanilla plantation with the fragrant smell of bourbon and vanilla pods in the air.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  18. #18
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    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoRoads View Post
    My reaction surprised me as well!

    My nose is not very sophisticated, but Toscano gave me the impression of sitting in a well-worn leather armchair at dusk smoking a cigar (Toscano, presumably) while looking out over a vanilla plantation with the fragrant smell of bourbon and vanilla pods in the air.
    Sounds like Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  19. #19

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Sounds like Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford.
    I have samples, Tobacco Vanille included, coming from the Tom Ford boutique in NYC.

    At least, I think they are coming - it has only been a couple weeks since they were promised.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  20. #20

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoRoads View Post
    My reaction surprised me as well!
    My nose is not very sophisticated, but Toscano gave me the impression of sitting in a well-worn leather armchair at dusk smoking a cigar (Toscano, presumably) while looking out over a vanilla plantation with the fragrant smell of bourbon and vanilla pods in the air.
    Thanks for that impressive image, TwoRoads! Indeed, there is an Italian brand for cigars named Toscano, and even a cigar club: Maledetto Toscano (thanks Google!) .
    While at it, I also found a review published on Now Smell This. It has been written by my favorite reviewer over there: Kevin S.
    Last edited by narcus; 27th March 2008 at 09:13 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  21. #21

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Thanks for the link, narcus!
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  22. #22

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    -As the only shop in Scandinavia, my local perfumery has now started to sell these fragrances . I have not tried any of them yet, but I`m very cuorious. What is worth checking out? Is it only EDC concentration? Aqua di cuba sounds intresting.

  23. #23

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by Oslo-Fjord View Post
    -As the only shop in Scandinavia, my local perfumery has now started to sell these fragrances . I have not tried any of them yet, but I`m very cuorious. What is worth checking out? Is it only EDC concentration? Aqua di cuba sounds intresting.
    My favorites are:

    Nostalgia (gasoline on a clean ambery base)
    Peau DEspagne and Marescialla (two "ancient" leathers. The former being more animalic while the latter more mossy).
    Melograno (tart opening evolving into a complex, and very classic, drydown)
    Muschio Oro (spicy-citrusy. Does great during spring/summer)
    Ottone (an amazingly rich fougere with incense)
    Fieno (hay)


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  24. #24

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    I'm working my way thru these as well - they opened here a month ago (pix in the Hong Kong 2011 Thread).

    I have noticed with several that the opening can be confused and quite aggressive - typical of more classic compositions involving several elements that need a few minutes to tuck their shirts in and get presentable. This is a good sign, IMO, because it tends to suggest there is a story to tell - I'm getting a bit fed up with the modern 'pretty smile up front and vacuous gaze for a couple of hours after' approach to perfumery - the get 'em with the first spritz 'front loaded' stuff. People who need to be wowed at first sniff need not apply - you actually have to get on the bus for the whole ride with most of this stuff. I'm inclined to say it would be almost pointless trying to get a handle on these on paper too, as they have an artisanal rawness that needs warmth to get them off the ground.

    I bought Fienno, Pot-Pourri, Tobacco Toscana & Melograno. I think some of the ones alrarom mentions are great, but as there are no samples I literally go in, apply one on each wrist, and that's it till next time, so just working my way thru them. Peau d'Espagne, Marisciella & Ottone would be my recs to try for the more full bodied classic masculine styles.

    And . . . there is a sort of a 'house note' I am picking up which I like that has a sort of rustic vibe. Interesting house style. It's not 'haute parfumerie' by any means, if anything these feel outdoorsy and quite 'earthy' to me, which is a nice change from some of the 'slick' niche stuff around. They feel grounded.

  25. #25

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    And . . . there is a sort of a 'house note' I am picking up which I like that has a sort of rustic vibe. Interesting house style. It's not 'haute parfumerie' by any means, if anything these feel outdoorsy and quite 'earthy' to me, which is a nice change from some of the 'slick' niche stuff around. They feel grounded.
    Oh yes, most definitely. Thanks for pointing this out Mr.Reasonable. I collocate this "note" somewhere bewteen an earthy/outdoorsy vibe and something, let's say, pharmaceutical (not to be intended as medicinal but more like herbal).

    I'll also second the Pot-Pourri suggestion. How could I have forgot about this?


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  26. #26

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by Oslo-Fjord View Post
    -As the only shop in Scandinavia, my local perfumery has now started to sell these fragrances . I have not tried any of them yet, but I`m very cuorious. What is worth checking out? Is it only EDC concentration? Aqua di cuba sounds intresting.
    I have the Cuba and it has amazing longevity and very good strength. Probabley too much, actually. It actually lasted through a washing machine !! Even though many SMN's are marked as EDC, they are very well made. I don't feel that EDC is an accurate way to descrive the strength of Cuba. If anything, it is a well radiating EDP.

    A lot of guys, unfortunately just make blind judgments. They make comments that SMN Cuba and Toscano don't last long, but only because they read as edc's. Not because that particular person sampled it. I feel SMN gets the opposite treatment of other niche brands that are loved like Lutens and Creed ( not niche really, but I will play along) and Le Labo. People just don't want to believe SMN can be that good. The Lutens, Creed and other over hyped brands get ample opportunity to be loved.

    Give them a shot. I highly recommend this label. Another favorite of mine is Opoponax.
    Seeking: Bottles/decants : of Feeling Man, Gucci pour Homme, Essence of John Galliano, Nicole Miller (vintage), Opium pour Homme, Oxford & Cambridge, Concentré D'Orange Verte...etc.

    Seeking decant/sample of Jil Sander Feeling Man, Cacharel Nemo, Bijan for Men EDC, Lanvin for Men, Giorgio VIP, Il Lancetti and other old school frags ....etc. I have samples to swap.

    More HERE
    Please PM me !

  27. #27

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by Surfacing View Post
    I have the Cuba and it has amazing longevity and very good strength. Probabley too much, actually. It actually lasted through a washing machine !! Even though many SMN's are marked as EDC, they are very well made. I don't feel that EDC is an accurate way to descrive the strength of Cuba. If anything, it is a well radiating EDP.

    A lot of guys, unfortunately just make blind judgments. They make comments that SMN Cuba and Toscano don't last long, but only because they read as edc's. Not because that particular person sampled it. I feel SMN gets the opposite treatment of other niche brands that are loved like Lutens and Creed ( not niche really, but I will play along) and Le Labo. People just don't want to believe SMN can be that good. The Lutens, Creed and other over hyped brands get ample opportunity to be loved.

    Give them a shot. I highly recommend this label. Another favorite of mine is Opoponax.
    Ok, thanks! I will def. check those out next time I`m down-town

  28. #28

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Back in 2003 when I joined Basenotes SMN was a very big topic.....If I remember correctly it was one of the main Niche Houses that everyone loved.....Seems like there are so many to talk about now.....and SMN doesn't seem to be as hot as it was when I joined.....Gary

  29. #29

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    I agree. Santa Maria Novella gets too little notice nowadays. It is a line not carried by many dealers so it goes under the radar. I rediscovered it this year and have to admit I am really enjoying SMN. I also really like their approach to fragrances. There is always a little bit of the rustic aspect in their fragrances and also something unexpected. They take the road less traveled by - on most things. Also, there is a a centuries old feel to many of their fragrances. They use quite of a bit of contrasting dark notes to offset the primary theme note of any fragrances they do. For instance: the Sadolo is truly dark and medieval with a tar like opening. My favorite fragrances from Santa Maria Novella are: Patchouli (the best pure patch, imo), Maresciella (nutmeg incense), Potpourri (eucalyptus), Nostalgia (old motor oil), Hay, Acqua di Cuba, Tobacco Toscano, Peau de Espana (dark leather), Melograno (pomegranate incense). The one that is an absolute stand out to me is SMN Patchouli.

  30. #30

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    I have tried several from this house, but I don't really like them. It's funny to say, but I always get some dusty feeling from them. Almost like I can taste chalk! :-)

  31. #31

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    They sell some wicked hair lotion if you are going for the mafioso look and they have a potpourri that is quite nice.

  32. #32

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzlepuff View Post
    For instance: the Sadolo is truly dark and medieval with a tar like opening.
    Couldn't agree more: Quite destabilizing opening yet nonetheless enjoyable.


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  33. #33

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    Quote Originally Posted by Oslo-Fjord View Post
    Ok, thanks!
    You're welcome.

  34. #34

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    I have a sample of Potpurri and like the drydown very much.

  35. #35

    Default Re: I don't know anything about Santa Maria Novella

    I'm not a giant fan of SMN's fragrances, but I love the almond soap (at about $15.00 per bar, I only use it a few times a year).
    Current Top Five:

    1. Creed Green Irish Tweed
    2. Tom Ford Neroli Portofino
    3. Hermes Concentre d'Orange Verte
    4. Bond No. 9 New Haarlem
    5. Creed Original Vetiver

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