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  1. #1

    Default Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    I recently noticed that a significant number of my top favorite fragrances, which I have listed below, are created by small companies not associated with a mainstream perfume business such as a Designer Company or a Niche House or a traditional Perfume House.
    - Domenico Caraceni Pour Homme
    - Czech & Speake Neroli
    - Czech & Speake No. 88
    - Mark Birley for Men
    - Clive Christian 1872 for Men

    Domenico Caraceni is a high-end Italian tailored suit maker that also has three different fragrances available for their customers to purchase.

    Mark Birley was the founder of Annabel’s Club in London and he had Pierre Bourdon design Mark Birley for Men, a fragrance originally created for the members of Annabel’s Club.

    Czech & Speake is an English company specializing in upscale bathroom fixtures and plumbing supplies, and they also have a collection of six aromatics that they sell, probably just for the prestige factor.

    Englishman Clive Christian’s main business is selling kitchens, and probably just for the prestige, he also sells three men’s fragrances and three women’s fragrances.

    What is noteworthy about these small companies is that all of them are in some business other than the perfume business, but they also sell perfume on the side, possibly just for the prestige of selling perfume. I also can’t help but notice that none of these companies are French, but that three of the companies are English and one Italian.

    I wonder why these non-French / non-perfume companies are producing fragrances that I find to be preferable, of higher quality, and more suitable for me than most or all of the offerings from mainstream perfume businesses such as a Designer Company or a Niche House or a traditional Perfume House?

    I would appreciate any possible answers to my question, and I would also be interested to hear about similar excellent fragrances from non-perfume companies that you might be aware of.
    .
    Last edited by Rockford; 25th March 2008 at 03:52 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    The first one that comes to mind is Imperial Opoponax by Les Nereides, a French costume jewelry company. They have 5 or 6 fragrances and this one happens to be my favorite. Another one that comes to mind is Catherine Memi, an interior design/furniture company that has 3 fragrances on offer under her Design Attitude range. Very bergamot, very French and also very nicely made.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 25th March 2008 at 04:02 AM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    One reason could be that these companies are unhindered by focus groups - their main source of revenue isn't from fragrances. Their fragrances try to encapsulate the core identity of the company.

    An example: When JC Ellena was trying to shop around Bulgari Au the Verte, a perfume somewhat unique for its time, many big fragrance houses passed over the opportunity to market the formula. Ellena approached Bulgari, then a house more known for its jewelery line; Bulgari found the juice to be unique and edgy enough for its boutiques, and the rest is history.

    I agree on C&S .. their fragrances are great. I already own No. 88 and will soon add Neroli and Cuba to my collection.
    Last edited by zztopp; 25th March 2008 at 04:20 AM.
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  4. #4
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    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    I don't think Domenico Caraceni has anything to do with his brothers in the tailoring business. If you look up the different Caraceni's on the web (wikipedia) you'll see that there appears to be three brothers doing their own thing separately.

    When I checked the tailors, they were not offering fragrances. Domenico Caraceni's has the whiff of a marketing corporation.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    Quote Originally Posted by fredricktoo View Post
    I don't think Domenico Caraceni has anything to do with his brothers in the tailoring business. If you look up the different Caraceni's on the web (wikipedia) you'll see that there appears to be three brothers doing their own thing separately.

    When I checked the tailors, they were not offering fragrances. Domenico Caraceni's has the whiff of a marketing corporation.
    I think the Domenico Caraceni perfumes originated with the Domenico Caraceni tailoring business.

    Here is the Domenico Caraceni tailoring business web site: http://www.campagna.it/campagnadocs/.../caraceni.html

    Here is the Domenico Caraceni perfumes web site: http://www.caraceni.de/

    Notice that the Domenico Caraceni perfumes all have the Domenico Caraceni tailoring logo with a pair of scissors and the year 1913 on their boxes and bottles. Because the Domenico Caraceni perfumes have this logo, it seems logical that the perfumes originated with the tailoring business. With the passage of time, it looks like it is possible that the Domenico Caraceni tailoring business and perfume business might have been sold or inherited by different family members, but I don’t have information about that and I don’t care to research it. I suppose it is possible that a large perfume company with a large marketing organization now owns Domenico Caraceni perfumes. The point is that the Domenico Caraceni perfumes were originally created by a non-perfume business.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    That was began in 1937, when Roure Dupont makes perfume for Elsa Schiaparelli. Since then brands does not need to employ perfumer, and does not need to be The Perfume House at all.
    Really big perfumery corporations like IFF, Givaudan etc. were made by principle of perfumery outsourcing ...

    The question is - why you do not think about Domenico Caraceni as DG or Chanel competitor?

    I could add Richard James Colognes and Savile Row EDT to your list.

    And Ginestet trio (red, white and sauternes wines), which is not the only alcohol brand to make perfumes. And Courvoisier. Cognac and wine-makers are also expanding their range.

    The reason is - we have a brand, why we can not launch more products with the same (our) name? Some more diversification, some more cash (I`ve read somewhere that in 50-80-s perfumes were considered like easy cash for brands!)
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    Quote Originally Posted by Rockford View Post
    I think the Domenico Caraceni perfumes originated with the Domenico Caraceni tailoring business.

    Here is the Domenico Caraceni tailoring business web site: http://www.campagna.it/campagnadocs/.../caraceni.html

    Here is the Domenico Caraceni perfumes web site: http://www.caraceni.de/

    Notice that the Domenico Caraceni perfumes all have the Domenico Caraceni tailoring logo with a pair of scissors and the year 1913 on their boxes and bottles. Because the Domenico Caraceni perfumes have this logo, it seems logical that the perfumes originated with the tailoring business. With the passage of time, it looks like it is possible that the Domenico Caraceni tailoring business and perfume business might have been sold or inherited by different family members, but I don’t have information about that and I don’t care to research it. I suppose it is possible that a large perfume company with a large marketing organization now owns Domenico Caraceni perfumes. The point is that the Domenico Caraceni perfumes were originally created by a non-perfume business.

    And my point is that the tailors sell no fragrance at all. The Italian tailors have nothing to do with the German site for Domenico Caraceni perfumes. This was a point Scentemental promised to write more about after he researched it. I wrote of it here before that.

    here's the info from the wikipedia site featuring the Caracini crest:

    Tailored suit maker Caraceni was founded in Rome, Italy in 1913 by the father of Italian tailoring, Domenico Caraceni. At one point in the 1930s, Domenico and his family operated ateliers in Rome, Milan and Paris. The various Caraceni "sartorias" have crafted handmade suits for various celebrities over the years, including Tyrone Power, Humphrey Bogart, Gary Cooper, Cary Grant, Yves Saint Laurent, Gianni Agnelli, and Sophia Loren. The Caraceni label is also famous for dressing generations of The Kings of Greece and Italy, The Prince of Wales, Prince Rainier of Monaco and Aristotle Onassis.
    Today, there are several businesses going by the name "Caraceni" in operation. The original shop operates out of a small location in Rome with a very small workforce. This is run by Tommy and Giulio Caraceni, nephews of Domenico. There are three branches in Milan, all founded by offshoots of the clan, and all claiming to be the "real Caraceni." The cogniscenti consider A. Caraceni, run by Mario Caraceni (another nephew) to be the best. These suits are what is known as "bench bespoke," meaning they are made one at a time, by hand, to a pattern specifically drawn for each individual customer.
    Gianni Campagna, once an apprentice at Sartoria Domenico Caraceni in Milan, acquired the Sartoria Domenico Caraceni label in 1998. Under this name, his company makes expensive made-to-measure suits out of the Palazzo Bernasconi in Milan. This business is separate from and not affiliated with the other Caraceni bespoke ateliers in Rome and Milan.



    nothing about perfume.
    Last edited by fredricktoo; 25th March 2008 at 12:22 PM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    Quote Originally Posted by fredricktoo View Post
    Gianni Campagna, once an apprentice at Sartoria Domenico Caraceni in Milan, acquired the Sartoria Domenico Caraceni label in 1998. Under this name, his company makes expensive made-to-measure suits out of the Palazzo Bernasconi in Milan. This business is separate from and not affiliated with the other Caraceni bespoke ateliers in Rome and Milan.



    nothing about perfume.
    It's the Campagna company owning Domenico Caraceni that has made a concerted effort to enter the perfume/beauty market. Besides the Caraceni perfumes an entire line of Gianni Campagna fragrances was built around various autobiographical reminiscences of his (the usual BS, but the perfumes I've tried are rather good).
    http://www.ausliebezumduft.de/index.php?cPath=23_377
    Last edited by the_good_life; 25th March 2008 at 01:44 PM.
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    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    It's the Campagna company owning Domenico Caraceni that has made a concerted effort to enter the perfume/beauty market. Besides the Caraceni perfumes an entire line of Gianni Campagna fragrances was built around various autobiographical reminiscences of his (the usual BS, but the perfumes I've tried are rather good).
    http://www.ausliebezumduft.de/index.php?cPath=23_377
    and here

    http://classic-parfums.com/

    there's a real interesting PDF at this site, in German
    Last edited by fredricktoo; 25th March 2008 at 01:57 PM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    C&S No. 88
    C&S - Cuba

  11. #11

    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    The first one that comes to mind is Imperial Opoponax by Les Nereides, a French costume jewelry company. They have 5 or 6 fragrances and this one happens to be my favorite. Another one that comes to mind is Catherine Memi, an interior design/furniture company that has 3 fragrances on offer under her Design Attitude range. Very bergamot, very French and also very nicely made.
    Ruggles,

    Thanks for these suggestions! I remember that Scentemental was also very enthusiastic about Les Nereides. Catherine Memi's fragrances are "very bergamot"? Oh, I am looking forward to testing something "very bergamot". When I have an opportunity, I will be sure to check out both Les Nereides and also Catherine Memi.
    .

  12. #12

    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    I also am a big fan of C&S, YSL, DC, Washinton Tremlett, Lorenzo Villoresi too.

    When it comes right down to it, many of the big fragrance companies started out in some other business too. At least many like to claim lineage to fashion or design or some other core business. Designers like Chanel, YSL, Givenchy, Armani, Ralph Lauren all succeeded with fashion as a first business. When a fragrance is successful it is very profitable and what was once a brand extension or side line product can become the tail that wags the dog. It seems that as soon as they realize how big the fragrance thing can be, they stop creating the huge original masterpieces they once did!?

    I guess many of the small shops who have made it in fragrance succeeded because they felt no pressure to compete with the other mainstream fragrances of the day and so they were free to create something truly original and unique. When you go into the Czech and Speake shop in London, they really do treat their fragrances as an afterthought or sideline type of enterprise. I don't think they realize how big it could be if they were to get behind it with a big marketing campaign and get placement in fragrance departments of more mainstream stores. I guess this lack of focus on fragrance gives them the loose leash needed to wander about and find something really unique for the time - like all of the C&S fragrances have been.
    Last edited by Buzzlepuff; 25th March 2008 at 04:00 PM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzlepuff View Post
    I guess many of the small shops who have made it in fragrance succeeded because they felt no pressure to compete with the other mainstream fragrances of the day and so they were free to create something truly original and unique. When you go into the Czech and Speake shop in London, they really do treat their fragrances as an afterthought or sideline type of enterprise. I don't think they realize how big it could be if they were to get behind it with a big marketing campaign and get placement in fragrance departments of more mainstream stores. I guess this lack of focus on fragrance gives them the loose leash needed to wander about and find something really unique for the time - like all of the C&S fragrances have been.
    Buzzlepuff,

    Thank you for the interesting information about the Czech & Speake shop in London. I think you have some very good insights into possibly why this kind of company produces such great fragrances of such high quality.
    .
    Last edited by Rockford; 25th March 2008 at 08:21 PM.

  14. #14
    Dimitrios's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    Royal Port & Doubloon ... by MrCovie

    SALES
    JANUARY 2013 ..http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=232133

    *** SPECIAL - LUI ROCHAS , 3.3oz Sealed ***

    FLACON .. Updating Soon flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=43

  15. #15

    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    Would Chopard Madness count?

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    It's called licensing. Think, Adidas, and then go up a bit.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    Le Prince Jardinier

  18. #18

    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    +1 Mark Birley & C&S

  19. #19

    Default Re: Favorite fragrances not from a Designer or a Niche House or a Perfume House

    Most fragrances by Crabtree&Evelyn, especially Sienna, Sandalwood and Nomad, eager to test West Indian Limes

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