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  1. #1
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    Default Turin, Sanchez & Perfumes: The Guide tidbits in April '08 Allure magazine

    The April 2008 issue of Allure (the one with Mariah Carey on the cover) is chock full of perfume tidbits, I'd swear a Basenotes member is working in the Editorial staff.

    The issue contains an excerpt by Tania Sanchez' from the Perfumes: The Guide book, along with a short 'How to Apply Fragrance' blurb written by perfumer Sophia Grosjman.

    Page 42 in the Contributors section shows a very cute picture of Luca Turin standing behind Tania Sanchez (I swear the picture is taken standing in front of that massive cabinet of Luca's filled with fragrances). More importantly, the text next to the picture reads, When Turin, a scientist and perfume aficionado, read the comments Sanchez, a fiction writer, posted on his blog in 2005, he knew a partnership had been born. The two collaborated on Perfumes: The Guide, published by Viking this month, which is excerpted in 'Invisible Attraction' - and they married at New York City Hall in November. That day, Turin chose Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan for his bride-to-be and L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer Perfumes for himself. 'And let me tell you, we were the best smelling things in that municipal building,' says Sanchez.

    Page 118 'How to Apply Fragrance' by Sophia Grosjman - Ms. Grosjman mentions that for day wear she wears fragrance lower on her body such as behind her kneed (as it evaporates, it rises) and higher up for evening fragrance so that it envelopes her right away. She also suggest misting the skin, and that if the area feels wet after you spray, you're holding the bottle too close. After misting, let the scent develop and if you need to apply more then do so. She even suggest to 'decadent' readers that they apply fragrance like the late Estee Lauder used to: spraying into the air in front of her body, then walking through the fragrant mist so it settled lightly on her skin and clothes.

    Page 136 'Invisible Attraction' by Tania Sanchez (the excerpt from Perfumes: The Guide) - She mentions the allure of Iris Gris by Jacques Fath and why the smells of iris and peaches also includes a third...entirely new smell due to the wonderful job the perfumer did. She mentions her and a friend (bored one night) try this with a bottle of Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist and Persicol (a peach scented base). She mentions that noone can predict the next great fragrance, but that 3 things need to be in place for a great fragrance to emerge: 1) Someone must be obsessed and daring enough to tinker and come up with the new idea 2) Someone must be able to spot the one good idea among many bad ideas 3) Someone must have the skill to realize the idea's full potential. She agrees that many fragrances smell great in the first few minutes, then rapidly fade; some attack your nose; others smell nice in the middle somewhere, but boring at the start and finish; some get really too sweet; some fall to pieces with different parts hanging in the air but not really working together as a whole; some never amount to anything. But a rare amount of them have something new to say every time that you wear them - those are the greats! She mentions falling in love with L'Heure Bleue at the Guerlain counter at Saks and spending her entire monthly food budget on it, and putting the bottle in a dark cabinet so she wouldn't have to look at it. She cautions against wearing strong perfumes (like Poison) to the cinema and wearing a scent that cooperates with food (a classic, discreet chypre or oriental that creates a lovely background) to restaurants or none at all. To go scentless when you're at a wine tasting - so you can concentrate and focus on your $300 glass of burgundy. Lastly, she admonishes us to avoid wearing the fragrance that you believe matches your style, since it may not. If you're intellectual and wear only intellectual perfumes, it is like obsessively matching your bag and shoes every day - it's timid and rule bound. If you wear only florals, try wearing a non floral for once. If you're ultra feminine, wear a man's scent. Butch? Then doll it up for once. Live a little. Try it on. It's only perfume.

    In addition, there are seven scent reviews copied next to the article, all Five Star scents, that include: Badgley Mischka, Beyond Paradise by Estee Lauder, Calyx by Prescriptives, Chinatown by Bond No. 9, Lolita Lempicka, Missoni and Tommy Girl. The text above the reviews reads: We rank fragrances, giving five stars to masterpieces, four stars to excellent fragrances, three stars to solid, yet uninspiring ones, two stars to disappointing scents, and one star to fragrances so vile they insult the smeller. And we call them as we smell them. One startled PR assistant asked coauthor Luca Turin, after he requested an actual perfume and not just press releases, 'What will your opinion rest on?' He answered, 'A triangular appendage in the middle of my face - called the nose.'

    Finally, there is a photo collage titled The Classics, which states: Some of these five star landmarks definitively changed the history of perfume, and some stand the test of time because they continue to smell fantastic, decade after decade. The fragrances are: Chanel No. 5 and No. 5 Eau de Toilette, Mitsouko by Guerlain, Habit Rouge by Guerlain, L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain, Opium by Yves St. Laurent, Pleasures by Estee Lauder, Shalimar by Guerlain, Angel by Thierry Mugler, Vol de Nuit by Guerlain and White Linen by Estee Lauder
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 31st March 2008 at 03:51 AM.

  2. #2
    Overcome By Fumes
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    Default Re: Turin, Sanchez & Perfumes: The Guide tidbits in April '08 Allure magazine

    Guerlain kinda overwhelms the classics, eh?

  3. #3

    Default Re: Turin, Sanchez & Perfumes: The Guide tidbits in April '08 Allure magazine

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    ......and they married at New York City Hall in November. That day, Turin chose Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan for his bride-to-be and L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer Perfumes for himself. 'And let me tell you, we were the best smelling things in that municipal building,' says Sanchez.
    That is except for the day that John Kennedy was there with the lovely Carolyn Bessett getting hitched. What a beautiful couple they were. Sad loss.
    On most other days, the municipal building in NYC smells like a sour, wet mop.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 31st March 2008 at 04:44 AM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Turin, Sanchez & Perfumes: The Guide tidbits in April '08 Allure magazine

    Thanks, Mike. This should indicate we're "on track" when Luca Turin will wear LdDM on his wedding day!

    Applying behind the knees? ... Would this work for those of us who typically wear long pants? - or did I totally miss something here
    Last edited by Delmar; 31st March 2008 at 01:41 PM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Turin, Sanchez & Perfumes: The Guide tidbits in April '08 Allure magazine

    sounds like a good issue
    I`m glad that I bought my book and waiting for it
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Turin, Sanchez & Perfumes: The Guide tidbits in April '08 Allure magazine

    I found the fragrance application interesting since this is how I apply by misty the air and walking through. I will have to try behind the knees though; I have never done that.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Turin, Sanchez & Perfumes: The Guide tidbits in April '08 Allure magazine

    Quote Originally Posted by Scentologist View Post
    I will have to try behind the knees though; I have never done that.
    Me too.. although i'm highly skeptical.. hmm lets see.


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  8. #8

    Default Re: Turin, Sanchez & Perfumes: The Guide tidbits in April '08 Allure magazine

    Thank you for the fine job, Mike! I know how much time it can take to carefully, and objectively reflect the contents of other documents, pages and all – even in cases where scanning facilitates it.

    As this article concentrates on feminine aspects of perfumes and perfume application I am surprised not to find it on the ladies forum. It may take a long time before this poster has familiarized himself with the ideas of Tania Sanchez. She has been one of the most frequent posters in Turins Blog 2005, and I therefore know that she can express herself unmistakably, and in a witty way. Her qualification as a lady expert and guide through the paradise of smells has to be proven yet. By accident of birth and education I went through a very different education in smells (in the broadest sense), and I may therefore not be able to detect much of an affinity to her tastes. We certainly meet on L’Heure Bleue. But the real test will be if she also expresses a preference for some masculines which are important to me. If a previous remark of hers on Piper Nigrum is an indication, she could certainly make me very happy with a whole chapter on Italian quality perfumes. The original is good. I will never change my opinion on that. But I need no Turin light or Turin pour femmes in addition !
    Intellectual perfumes, a new fragrance family? What do they smell like?
    Please don't miss giving me the perfumer's name in each review!


    I have experimented a lot to arrive at a star rating system for my own collection, that can do most of the fragrances justice. It’s almost impossible. That said, I see a long, long road between milestones “excellent” and “solid, yet uninspiring”. Someone must have tossed over the old fashioned “good”, nothing less and nothing more, just good! That would be category *** for me. Who actually needs three categories for fragrances that are not good, hence not recommendable? Two categories for crap are sufficient, and I don’t’ even care what they should be called. Life is too short to waste much ink and paper on fragrances that are 'so vile they insult the smeller'. That privilege can be left to Burr who decorated Azzaros Chrome with a 'zero' star. 'If Sanchez is too young to see that, Turin certainly isn’t. By the way he is back at London University !
    Last edited by narcus; 31st March 2008 at 10:08 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Turin, Sanchez & Perfumes: The Guide tidbits in April '08 Allure magazine

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    Thank you for the fine job, Mike! I know how much time it can take to carefully, and objectively reflect the contents of other documents, pages and all – even in cases where scanning facilitates it.

    As this article concentrates on feminine aspects of perfumes and perfume application I am surprised not to find it on the ladies forum. It may take a long time before this poster has familiarized himself with the ideas of Tania Sanchez. She has been one of the most frequent posters in Turins Blog 2005, and I therefore know that she can express herself unmistakably, and in a witty way. Her qualification as a lady expert and guide through the paradise of smells has to be proven yet. By accident of birth and education I went through a very different education in smells (in the broadest sense), and I may therefore not be able to detect much of an affinity to her tastes. We certainly meet on L’Heure Bleue. But the real test will be if she also expresses a preference for some masculines which are important to me. If a previous remark of hers on Piper Nigrum is an indication, she could certainly make me very happy with a whole chapter on Italian quality perfumes. The original is good. I will never change my opinion on that. But I need no Turin light or Turin pour femmes in addition !
    Intellectual perfumes, a new fragrance family? What do they smell like?
    Please don't miss giving me the perfumer's name in each review!


    I have experimented a lot to arrive at a star rating system for my own collection, that can do most of the fragrances justice. It’s almost impossible. That said, I see a long, long road between milestones “excellent” and “solid, yet uninspiring”. Someone must have tossed over the old fashioned “good”, nothing less and nothing more, just good! That would be category *** for me. Who actually needs three categories for fragrances that are not good, hence not recommendable? Two categories for crap are sufficient, and I don’t’ even care what they should be called. Life is too short to waste much ink and paper on fragrances that are 'so vile they insult the smeller'. That privilege can be left to Burr who decorated Azzaros Chrome with a 'zero' star. 'If Sanchez is too young to see that, Turin certainly isn’t. By the way he is back at London University !
    Yes narcus, I hesitated in posting this in the mens thread when I was typing it, but there was just a wealth of information, I didn't want to post it twice...but now that you've nudged me, I just might post one over there as well.

    I think you bring up a good point about Ms. Sanchez and what she has to bring to the table when it comes to reviewing mens scents.

    The reviews in the Allure magazine, were not designated as hers or Turin's. However I'm sure this was just for the article's purposes and in the actual Perfumes book each review will be clearly marked as Turin's or Sanchez's (at least that's how the website 'preview' looks...)

    ________________________

    Quote Originally Posted by Scentologist View Post
    I found the fragrance application interesting since this is how I apply by misty the air and walking through. I will have to try behind the knees though; I have never done that.
    I think it will only work for us guys, if we're wearing shorts - with pants on it's just going to cover over the smell and not project that much.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Turin, Sanchez & Perfumes: The Guide tidbits in April '08 Allure magazine

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Yes narcus, I hesitated in posting this in the mens thread when I was typing it, but there was just a wealth of information, I didn't want to post it twice...but now that you've nudged me, I just might post one over there as well.
    I think you bring up a good point about Ms. Sanchez and what she has to bring to the table when it comes to reviewing mens scents.
    The reviews in the Allure magazine, were not designated as hers or Turin's. However I'm sure this was just for the article's purposes and in the actual Perfumes book each review will be clearly marked as Turin's or Sanchez's (at least that's how the website 'preview' looks...)
    ________________________

    I think it will only work for us guys, if we're wearing shorts - with pants on it's just going to cover over the smell and not project that much.
    - Maybe the girls might appreciate to see a link (there is a general request not to post the same twice).
    - I had focused more on Tania from the start as she will be half the book and nobody knows much about her (and this was even before I learned about their marriage). I have just finished expressing early disappointments on the second Turin-Sanchez Guide thread. (A third is unfortunately forgotten now). I think you might be the one who is also interested in the current POL thread which Ascella kindly linked us to yesterday.
    -Yes, all reviews carry initials. It's the perfumer's name I may have hoped for in vain. Ah well, it's only ten days now! I am really looking forward to this one.
    - Hollow of the knee: that's not a new method, but perfect for men who work at a desk! Also: hairy legs hold perfume well, and I am not shy using that possibility when I am at it. It just takes some getting used to. I hate perfume close to my nose, do unless it's a light cologne I put the stuff on my chest and spray the back or topf of my head. On cheeks and neck it can clog the nose for hours, and has a high headache potential. Men's perfuming customs are too often copied from how their moms do it (Or what they let us see of it when we were boys :-), and that dates back to the time when real perfumes were more common than les eaux .

    Every man should give his legs at least a chance once, using a cologne that has a bit of sillage and longevity. And you do not have to wait for Bermuda time for a pleasant surprise to yourself! .
    Last edited by narcus; 1st April 2008 at 02:56 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Turin, Sanchez & Perfumes: The Guide tidbits in April '08 Allure magazine

    Allure has had great fragrance coverage for a while. Loved Tania's article and hope she gets to write more.

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