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  1. #1
    Gerald's Avatar
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    Default Odori - short reviews

    OK, although I pledged to resist any new "niche line" which spring up like mushrooms these days, I gave some of the Odori fragrances a try after I heard the head behind them was Enzo Galardi, who also created the BOIS 1920 series (which I appreciate a lot).

    First of all, don't expect something too adventurous or avant-garde. The scents mainly center on a certain note or accord, but their appeal lies in their complexity which makes them much more multi-faceted than typical soliflores. In the stages of their development, they highlight different facets of each note. They all are very wearable (i.e. means office-capable), perfectly suitable for women and men and their longevity is quite good (EdT concentration).

    Zafferano (saffron) is my favourite in the line. I love saffron, but in fragrances, it is often used in a very sweet and gourmandy context. Zafferano starts fresh and a bit fruity with notes of saffron, raspberry and cedar. Then, step by step, floral undertones gain presence: a hint of jasmine, lily and rose. The saffron isn't overly dominant, but present all the time. The base (amber, rosewood) is smooth, soft and warm. Saffron lovers: don't miss this.

    Iris (the note of the year 2007) plays masterfully with the two different perspectives on that plant: its floral (petals) and earthy (roots) aspects. Odori's Iris starts earthy-soft, green, and a bit powdery. Anise and heliotrope give a tad of sweetness, before after a while the iris blossom climbs to the surface and adds a floral touch. In the drydown there's a whiff of amber and vanilla. In contrast to "cold" iris perfumes (e.g. Lutens' wonderful Iris Silver Mist or the raw, stemmy-green and for me almost unbearable milky Paprika Brasil) it's a cool yet sunny iris scent that shares some similarities with Chanel's No. 28 but lasts longer. A good choice for spring.

    Cuoio (leather) changes deeply from the beginning to the drydown. It starts fresh and cologne-y with bergamot, orange and a hint of ylang-ylang: bracing and almost a bit generic. But then it takes an astonishing development. Vetiver and ginger take the stage, and the freshness changes to a green, deep, almost bitter dryness. In a Djedi look-alike contest, Cuoio could prevail over Vero Kern's Onda and Miller Harris' Vetiver Bourbon: the resemblence to Guerlain's all-time vetiver icon - at least in the middle of its development - is striking. The base with amber and patchouli isn't by far as interesting as the long-lasting heart. Nevertheless, Cuoio is my number two in the range.

    Spigo (lavender) is very nice and well-constructed, but nothing exceptional. If you're looking for a really long-lasting lavender scent, try this. Bergamot, lemon and lavender in the top; sage, cedar and lavender absolue in the heart, and amber and vanilla in the base.

    My samples of Tabacco and Gli Odori are still waiting for me and I'll review them later, if they're interesting enough.

    The bottles are quite beautiful, the price isn't (150 EUR / 100 ml), but the Odoris for sure belong to this year's more mentionable launches so far.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Wow, thanks for the reviews Gerald. I can always count on you to be one of the first to discover new and upcoming niche houses. However, like you, I'm finding it pretty tough keeping up with all the new houses myself!

    I look forward to reading your reviews for Tabacco and Gli Odori very soon.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Quote Originally Posted by Gerald View Post
    the Odoris

    Sorry for the laugh but couldn't help it since Odori is already the plural of odore in italian, so Odoris sounded too much and quite funny

  4. #4
    fly777's Avatar
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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Gerald, your reviews are highly welcome, as I await my samples in a few days. Herzlichen Dank.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Gerald if I come over to Munich one day, can I come play at your house? Pretty please...!

    Thanks for the reviews - yes I agree with Trebor, I can always count on your for profiling the newest of the new. I hadn't even heard of the Odori line, I'm just starting to explore the Bois 1920 line itself (a few wowed me in LA).

    You know saffron's tricky on me but Zafferano sounds great because of you mentioning it's not too sweet like most saffron scents.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Quote Originally Posted by fly777 View Post
    Gerald, your reviews are highly welcome, as I await my samples in a few days. Herzlichen Dank.
    I hope to receive mine early next week to. Particularly looking forward to the Iris and the Tobacco.

  7. #7
    Gerald's Avatar
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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Gerald if I come over to Munich one day, can I come play at your house?
    You're welcome, Mike You'll bring some goodies from your treasure chamber, won't you?

    I gave Gli Odori and Tabacco a trial yesterday, now these are my impressions:

    Gli Odori is a woody, fresh composition with laurel, rosemary and tarragon in the top, celery and nutmeg in the heart and woody notes (cedar, sandalwood) in the base. Besides these 'official' notes, there's an intense citrus accord from the beginning to the end that dominates the whole fragrance. Gli Odori reminds me a lot of of Creed's Bois de Cedrat or PG's Yuzu Ab Irato, though it's spicier and has a very good lasting power. Pretty, but nothing special and not bottle-worthy for me.

    Tabacco on the other hand is exceptional. Most tobacco-based fragrances that I know create the atmosphere of clubs, libraries and leather chairs (V Tabarome) or have boozy accords (Le Dandy). Odori's take on tobacco is completely different. The fragrance starts with a heavy honey note that lingers on for a while before it clears the way for some floral notes and a hint of vetiver. The smell of tobacco leaves joins in very subtle, but gets more and more dominant until it melts into the base of vanilla and oakmoss. The honey note never completely disappears. Tobacco and honey can be nice, but also a bit cloying. Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille - another honey / tobacco scent - is a conoction I like and wear, but to be honest, I don't wear it too often as it tends to disturb me after a while, especially in warmer weather. Odori Tabacco is much more subtle and mixes masterfully sweet, fresh (eucalyptus) and earthy notes. Don't expect an overly heavy sillage monster: Tabacco stays close to your skin, but there it lasts for many hours.

    At least three of them could be fbw ... I wish they would offer smaller 50 ml bottles!

  8. #8

    Vivek's Avatar
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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    That's great to hear, thanks for the reviews

  9. #9

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    For those of you in the US who are interested in this house, I just received the latest Barneys catalog (Beauty - Spring 2008) in the mail and it looks like they will be carrying this line. I am not sure which ones are gonna be available but Spigo was featured in the catalog.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    The Odori line is now available at luckyscent.com


  11. #11

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Quote Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents View Post
    The Odori line is now available at luckyscent.com

    They are priced at $210 per 100ml. Petty steep!

  12. #12

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Quote Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents View Post
    The Odori line is now available at luckyscent.com

    They are priced at $210 per 100ml. Pretty steep!

  13. #13

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Still not tested these. I have Iris, Zafferano and Tabacco. Will test Iris tomorrow. I feel the others are not made for this kind of weather so these will have to wait some more...
    No guru, not method, no teacher
    Just you and I and nature

  14. #14

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Gerald: Since you are in Germany, and Germany is supposed have cleaning products that smell wonderful, I'd like to know if you think these cleaning products have affected your appreciation of fragrancs in any way.
    Thanks.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Gerald, you give excellent and clear reviews! I love the way the Odori bottles look and the notes make it enticing!

  16. #16

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Quote Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents View Post
    The Odori line is now available at luckyscent.com

    Yeah I just got the email!

    I'm quite interested. The bottles look quite dashing.

  17. #17
    Dane's Avatar
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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    What does an iris blossom smell like?

  18. #18
    paintrman's Avatar
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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Most Iris blossoms don't smell. Although, there are a few that do. However, in perfumery, it isn't the flower that is used, it's the tuber. It makes a wonderful fixative and can be very expensive to use.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    I was hoping they would be terrible ... I can't fall for any more expensive scents!
    Oh please, if everyone around here is going to start telling the truth, I'm going to bed. - The House of Yes

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    and it smells more vegetable than floral, waxy.
    Last edited by chasefairfax; 17th May 2008 at 07:43 AM.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Smelled them yesterday, no thanks, very unimpressed, I would much rather have a bottle of Montale Aoud, or FM for that price. And the bottles are hideous.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    I just got samples from Luckyscent...

    My faves are the Cuoio, Iris, and Tabacco...
    The sleeper of this line IMO is the Iris....I'm not sure if it is my skin or what....but (for the most part) every iris scent I've ever tried had this sort of feminine vibe to it....This is soft & sweet but I don't get the vibe from it....it is agreeable with my skin I suppose ???

    As fro the two JUGGERNAUT's....The Cuoio and Tabacco are both EXCELLENT/AWESOME/SUPERB...blah, blah, blah....I have to have these 3 scents.

    The Cuoio is a gentlemany frag IMO but it seems refined and versatile....can be worn just about anywhere but preferably in the office I suppose (at least for me) The Tabacco is unlike any I've tried....very good....
    Think Fumerie Turque....but not as strong and in your face (I LOVE FT by the way) this is just more versatile....there is a sweetness to it that just makes it comforting IMO.
    You gotta sample these.

    The Zafferano and Spigo are both good too but just not bottle worthy IMO.
    The Gli Odor just stinks IMO....literally, my wife's face said it all to me
    Of course...just my opinions related to my skin chemistry
    sample all of these to find your liking.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Quote Originally Posted by Magnifiscent View Post

    Sorry for the laugh but couldn't help it since Odori is already the plural of odore in italian, so Odoris sounded too much and quite funny
    That's funny, because when I saw "Odori" I immediately thought of the Japanese word for "dance." It wasn't till I saw your response that I realized Odori is Italian, not Japanese.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Thanks for this-- answered questions I didn't even know I had

  25. #25

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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Quote Originally Posted by Gerald View Post
    OK, although I pledged to resist any new "niche line" which spring up like mushrooms these days, I gave some of the Odori fragrances a try after I heard the head behind them was Enzo Galardi, who also created the BOIS 1920 series (which I appreciate a lot).

    First of all, don't expect something too adventurous or avant-garde. The scents mainly center on a certain note or accord, but their appeal lies in their complexity which makes them much more multi-faceted than typical soliflores. In the stages of their development, they highlight different facets of each note. They all are very wearable (i.e. means office-capable), perfectly suitable for women and men and their longevity is quite good (EdT concentration).

    Zafferano (saffron) is my favourite in the line. I love saffron, but in fragrances, it is often used in a very sweet and gourmandy context. Zafferano starts fresh and a bit fruity with notes of saffron, raspberry and cedar. Then, step by step, floral undertones gain presence: a hint of jasmine, lily and rose. The saffron isn't overly dominant, but present all the time. The base (amber, rosewood) is smooth, soft and warm. Saffron lovers: don't miss this.

    Iris (the note of the year 2007) plays masterfully with the two different perspectives on that plant: its floral (petals) and earthy (roots) aspects. Odori's Iris starts earthy-soft, green, and a bit powdery. Anise and heliotrope give a tad of sweetness, before after a while the iris blossom climbs to the surface and adds a floral touch. In the drydown there's a whiff of amber and vanilla. In contrast to "cold" iris perfumes (e.g. Lutens' wonderful Iris Silver Mist or the raw, stemmy-green and for me almost unbearable milky Paprika Brasil) it's a cool yet sunny iris scent that shares some similarities with Chanel's No. 28 but lasts longer. A good choice for spring.

    Cuoio (leather) changes deeply from the beginning to the drydown. It starts fresh and cologne-y with bergamot, orange and a hint of ylang-ylang: bracing and almost a bit generic. But then it takes an astonishing development. Vetiver and ginger take the stage, and the freshness changes to a green, deep, almost bitter dryness. In a Djedi look-alike contest, Cuoio could prevail over Vero Kern's Onda and Miller Harris' Vetiver Bourbon: the resemblence to Guerlain's all-time vetiver icon - at least in the middle of its development - is striking. The base with amber and patchouli isn't by far as interesting as the long-lasting heart. Nevertheless, Cuoio is my number two in the range.

    Spigo (lavender) is very nice and well-constructed, but nothing exceptional. If you're looking for a really long-lasting lavender scent, try this. Bergamot, lemon and lavender in the top; sage, cedar and lavender absolue in the heart, and amber and vanilla in the base.

    My samples of Tabacco and Gli Odori are still waiting for me and I'll review them later, if they're interesting enough.

    The bottles are quite beautiful, the price isn't (150 EUR / 100 ml), but the Odoris for sure belong to this year's more mentionable launches so far.

    I have samples of all six. I consider none bottle worthy especially at $210.00 a pop. If you like the Bois 1920 line you may like theses as well since they are all from the same nose. All of them watered down EDT's for the price of EDP's, except for the 'Tobacco" which is fairly strong, but smells like my Wife's ash trays in her smokers den. cbihateperfume's "Smokey Tobacco Accord" just trounces Odori. Enzo Galardi needs to find another job, he's batting "0" out of "14" for me. Maybe he should be in the packaging business, because I do like the bottles for both Bois 1920 and Odori. Most basenoters know I'm not a Creed fan, but after smelling Odori, I'm suddenly yearning for a Creed, like Selection Verte (One of Creed's nicest) which by itself smells way better than any Bois 1920 or Odori. Creed fans, will you please make room for me to crossover, I'm suffocating on this Odori crap.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    OUCH! Well, I guess this just goes to show how skin chemistry really truly plays a major role in scents.
    Selection Verte is horrible IMO and last all of 30 minutes on me...The Odori scents...(I only really like the Cuoio, Tabacco & Iris) all last a LOOOOOONG time on me. As for the Bois 1920 line....I own and like them all except for the Sushi and Patchouly ones. I think the ODORI Iris is the sleeper for me....this one is very good....anyways, I guess one man's trash is another's treasure
    Enjoy what you will and wear whatever smells good on you....the end


    Quote Originally Posted by thebeck View Post
    I have samples of all six. I consider none bottle worthy especially at $210.00 a pop. If you like the Bois 1920 line you may like theses as well since they are all from the same nose. All of them watered down EDT's for the price of EDP's, except for the 'Tobacco" which is fairly strong, but smells like my Wife's ash trays in her smokers den. cbihateperfume's "Smokey Tobacco Accord" just trounces Odori. Enzo Galardi needs to find another job, he's batting "0" out of "14" for me. Maybe he should be in the packaging business, because I do like the bottles for both Bois 1920 and Odori. Most basenoters know I'm not a Creed fan, but after smelling Odori, I'm suddenly yearning for a Creed, like Selection Verte (One of Creed's nicest) which by itself smells way better than any Bois 1920 or Odori. Creed fans, will you please make room for me to crossover, I'm suffocating on this Odori crap.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Well, I guess I'm somewhat neutral about this house, not good, not bad, a bit like another recent newcomer called Cereus, from which I also don't feel the need of buying something.

    And yes, the Iris is very nice, but at this price? No thanks. I stick with Divine's take on iris, much more interesting and affordable.
    No guru, not method, no teacher
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  28. #28

    thebeck's Avatar
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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Quote Originally Posted by Domingo View Post
    Well, I guess I'm somewhat neutral about this house, not good, not bad, a bit like another recent newcomer called Cereus, from which I also don't feel the need of buying something.

    And yes, the Iris is very nice, but at this price? No thanks. I stick with Divine's take on iris, much more interesting and affordable.

    Yeah, Cereus is another entire worthless line. A word about L'Homme de Coeur by Divine. Yann Vasnier was in top for when he created this composition worthy of a King. Like it says on the bottle, simply"Divine"
    A nice woody modern take on iris. A bottle proudly sits on my shelf waiting its turn to be SOTD.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Got my samples in yesterday. I didn't get a really good whiff of them, just smelled the tops of vials themselves. Kinda powdery. The Tobacco one I really liked but I need to give them a full smell and wearing.

    Though at $210 a bottle... no way I'm going to get one.

  30. #30

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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Yeah, $210 is about out of the range for me. Id pay $190 for 4 oz of a Creed, as my wife likes it, or $125 for a Serge Lutens 1.7 ounce bottle. Yet I am on a shorter list than most, with about 6 bottles the most I want to have, so replacing say a Serge Lutens Chergui, it would take me through two winter/fall rotations roughly.

  31. #31
    Buzzlepuff's Avatar
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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    I got samples of these last week and have worn each of them twice for a trial run making notes. Gerald's reveiws are really spot on. Very fine fragrances and each rates highly with me - I guve each of them a B or B+ grade. But $210 is a lot to spend for 100 ml. and is a large volume to commit to. Bottle worthy? Yes if you don't already have a good fragrance in one of these scent profiles - but there are many that are similar to these.

    The impression I get from Odori is that this is a totally marketing driven fragrance creation. I'm not saying they are not good fragrances - they are. They just seem a little overcalculated (is this a word?) These are not works of fragrance art pushing the boundary of new artistic expression. No. These are carefully calculated attempts to improve on niche market favorites of the past few years. With an educated knowledge of popular big hits in niche perfumery from the past few years, the Odori market research asked what do we need based on what has worked? The answer was we need:

    (1) LAVENDER - an all purpose but very approachable lavender herbal = SPIGO!

    (2) LEATHER - likeable spanish leather = an Elsha 1776+Cuiron hybrid = CUOIO.

    (3) TOBACCO - A NO smoke/booze/leather/floral tobacco = rich cavendish pipe = TOBACCO.

    (4) ROSE - the best from the saffron/rose scents on the market = ZAFFERANO.

    (5) IRIS - less green than l'homme coeur, less powder than Iris Poudre, less violet than Iris BG, a warm iris for men = IRIS.

    After trying these twice each I find I really like the Iris and Cuoio best. The zafferano is also very nice but do I need another saffron rose scent with my Montales and Rose 31? The Tobacco just smells like good pipe tobacco to me - not sure thats what I want to smell like.
    Last edited by Buzzlepuff; 1st June 2008 at 04:24 PM.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    Just found out Holt Renfrew in Toronto is carrying the complete line. Price is C$220 for 100ml.
    They also carry the Bois 1920.

  33. #33
    kopah's Avatar
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    Default Re: Odori - short reviews

    I just nabbed a few samples from Holt Renfrew in Ottawa. Shame that they would pick up a random new niche line like this instead of, oh, I don't know, making Frederic Malle available outside of Vancouver, but who am I to question them?...

    Just wanted to give my two cents on the Iris: it seems to be pretty much a direct ripoff of Dior Bois d'Argent. Anybody else get this impression?

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