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  1. #61
    beachroses's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    I tried to take a shortcut by saying: as a European I need no rating system. I should have added"...for perfume", sorry. The North American market is so much bigger, that’s probably why ratings are more popular or important there. Europe has many different small markets and societies with different habits concerning food, drinks, and smells.
    North America is very diverse and many people living in it can form opinions about art on their own, but some are too busy to sample hundreds of fragrances and more power to them.

    Congratulations! I might take issue with your comments in re: Champs Elysees that I read in Allure, but if you'd rather wear EL Beyond Paradise, far be it from me to stop you. Just stand over there a ways... hehe. Just kidding.

    I don't usually go by reviews, because I hardly like anything and it took me a few hundred bucks to figure that out. I will enjoy reading your book, someday, I'm sure.
    Last edited by beachroses; 15th April 2008 at 01:07 AM.

  2. #62
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    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR View Post
    And, why no Montales? Are they not popular enough, not deemed interesting enough, or is it just a fluke oversight? Or is the number of scents you wanted to cover limited and therefore you only covered those that interested you the most, or that you found most relevant to the fragrance fanatic community?
    I have a feeling that if Turin had decided to review Montales, except for a couple, most would have been trashed for their trivial and boring formulas, just like the Villoresis.
    --------------------------------------

    [I]
    Quote Originally Posted by eric;1202747[/I
    And I promise I will lighten up when this mystery is cleared. Maybe not important for most,(although numerous threads tell otherwise) but to me it is one of those things I always wondered about. I remember an interview with Bourdon about Coolwater where he said that in the early '80s he had trouble selling his formula to companies, untill Coty decided to bring it out. He never thought it would be a worldwide succes. If I only could find back that interview


    Here's the interview with Bourdon (and Malle):

    http://www.lesechos.fr/info/metiers/4582913.htm

    Pour réussir ce pari audacieux, il fait appel à des « auteurs » habituellement dans les coulisses, qui pour la première fois de leur carrière signent un flacon de parfum de leur nom. Ainsi de Jean-Claude Ellena, devenu depuis parfumeur maison chez Hermès, d'Edouard Fléchier, recruté dès lors par Chanel, ou encore de Pierre Bourdon, considéré « comme l'un des parfumeurs les plus innovants de son époque ». Ce dernier, à la tête de son laboratoire Fragrance Ressources, reconnaît qu'« être anonyme » ne le dérange pas : « C'est la loi du genre dans notre métier. Le plus important, c'est d'échapper à la censure du système financier et d'être dans la contestation. Un créateur est révolutionnaire par essence. » Ce parfumeur sait de quoi il parle. Il y a une vingtaine d'années, pour lancer « Cool Water », aujourd'hui mondialement connu, il a mis cinq ans : deux ans de travail et trois autres pour convaincre une société de le diffuser, après sept refus. « J'ai même failli jeter la formule. » Finalement, le groupe Davidhoff ose l'aventure, et ne le regrette pas.


    Perhaps both Luca Turin and Michael Edwards need to revise the statements regarding GIT.
    Last edited by zztopp; 15th April 2008 at 04:56 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    -

  3. #63

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    I was just on a flight from NYC to LA. I spent most of the time reading The Guide. Like many others, I'm truly mystified by the 2 page, rave review of Beyond Paradise.
    When I got off the plane at LAX, I decided to high tale it over to the Duty Free shop in the Delta Terminal and sniff the so called masterpiece with the review fresh in my mind.
    Well, I'm sitting in my hotel room with the test strip right next to me and all I can say is, I'm still mystified. The only thing that comes to mind is laundry detergent and the movie Logan's Run.
    I'll sleep on it and maybe I'll have some kind of epiphany during the night.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 15th April 2008 at 06:58 AM.

  4. #64

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    I was just on a flight from NYC to LA. I spent most of the time reading The Guide. Like many others, I'm truly mystified by the 2 page, rave review of Beyond Paradise.
    When I got off the plane at LAX, I decided to high tale it over to the Duty Free shop in the Delta Terminal and sniff the so called masterpiece with the review fresh in my mind.
    Well, I'm sitting in my hotel room with the test strip right next to me and all I can say is, I'm still mystified. The only thing that comes to mind is laundry detergent and the movie Logan's Run.
    I'll sleep on it and maybe I'll have some kind of epiphany during the night.
    I think we shouldn't overinterpret some of these evaluations.

    "Elizabeth: For Luca and Tania: When you review a fragrance, how much do your own personal tastes influence you in how high you grade it?

    LT: 100%.

    TS: I have no impersonal tastes. "

    http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/b...4/3636692.html

    So he personally likes it - alot. I have an irrational infatuation with Vetiver hombre, because it triggers so many memories and just totally f...s with my consciousness, independent of any other quality it may or may not have as a perfume.
    My Wardrobe
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  5. #65

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    What about other creed fragrances? How does Edwards attribute them? This is important in assessing this.If he attributes the others to OC, it tells us much.
    At one time there were investigations into whether fragrances could be copyrighted. It is possible that if Pierre Bourdon had been touting cool water for a long time and O.Creed had smelled it and (ahem) "been heavily influenced by it" he made have given some credit to Pierre Bourdon in order to stave off legal action, or even (somewhat unlikely) out of honour.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

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  6. #66

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Again, a great reason to write an investigative reporting book about creed!

    Well, according to that french snipped, Bourdon had been flailing around trying to sell Cool Water for 7 years - and GIT was released in 1982, and Cool Water in 1988, so technically it's possible. But GIT was supposedly made for Cary Grant and only released to the public after his death. I doubt he comissioned it only a year or so before his death as a ripe old man.

    But of course Boudron might have tweaked his story a little and had a contract with Creed to not disclose his role - in the interview he mentions how he doesn't mind anonymity!
    CAESAR SEEKS:
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  7. #67

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    [...] Beyond Paradise [...] The only thing that comes to mind is laundry detergent and the movie Logan's Run.
    Wow ... given that is one of my all time favorite cheesy 70's movies.

    What makes it evoke the Logan's Run for you?
    ===
    “… [I] recall thinking that the computer would never advance much further than this. Call me naïve, but I seemed to have underestimated the universal desire to sit in a hard plastic chair and stare at a screen until your eyes cross.” ~ David Sedaris

  8. #68

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    So he personally likes it - alot.
    The Beyond Paradise review begins on page 92 and finishes on page 94, making it the longest review in the book. Both Turin and Sanchez share the honors, but in separate paragraphs. It is, by far, the most pedantic of the many well considered reviews. It reads a bit like a trial lawyer's defense of a guilty client, ultimately rendering it, the least personal and the least convincing entry in the book.
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by Bromo33333 View Post
    Wow ... given that is one of my all time favorite cheesy 70's movies.

    What makes it evoke the Logan's Run for you?
    Beyond Paradise, to me, smells like the perfect signature scent for a future society, where everything is artificial and germ free.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 16th April 2008 at 12:02 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  9. #69
    beachroses's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Did he create notes that went into Beyond Paradise or for other fragrances this designer did? I wonder if there is some kind of personal or professional connection. Did he reveal which ones he was affiliated with? It has a lot of people scratching their heads, to be honest, and I am no perfume snob, either.
    --------------------------------------
    [quote=luca turin;1203398]
    Quote Originally Posted by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR View Post
    I wouldn't be asking this if the book we out yet in Canada, as I'm eager to take a look at it and I'd just go check it out in the store, but are the Nasomatto covered?

    And, why no Montales? QUOTE]


    The Nasomattos arrived late (next edition). Montale refused to send us fragrances.
    You only reviewed fragrances that gave you free samples? Kind of confused.
    Last edited by beachroses; 15th April 2008 at 03:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  10. #70

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    I've had the book a few days now, and having gone through it once it is nice now just to open it to random pages or just to reference a particular frag.

    I imagine we all read through a book like this for the first time with some trepidation, wondering how our favorites will be reviewed. I used to write an editorial column for timezone.com, mosly on luxury mechanical watches - and believe me, all of these unnecessary luxuries become very emotionally charged pieces of our identities. We all want our favorites to be the 5 star fragrance.

    I was wasn't suprised to see that most of what I've liked in recent years is only blandly rated. But then I know my tastes and Luca's tastes are different, but I still love to read his perfume language. I recall I asked him once what he would think is the Count de Montecristo of fragrance - he replied with Yohji Homme. I found my own answer later with Lutens' Arabie. We are watching the same movie: one in Technicolor, one in 1080P. And Tania seems to share a group-mind with him. Once more kudos to Tania for best review with CKIN2U His, I nearly fell out of my chair.

    As far as Creed goes, I would have rated them lower than Luca and Tania did.

    My complaint (let's pile them on, shall we?), which I will bring over from the other thread, goes to the issue of separate reviews of different formulations. Chanel No 5 is, I think, the only fragrance given such treatment. I would have liked to have seen similar treatment for Habit Rouge and Jicky. That aside, naming the concentration reviewed would be helpful for all of the reviews. For example Cuir de Russie: is that the parfum or the EDT?

  11. #71

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    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos View Post
    My complaint (let's pile them on, shall we?), which I will bring over from the other thread, goes to the issue of separate reviews of different formulations. Chanel No 5 is, I think, the only fragrance given such treatment. I would have liked to have seen similar treatment for Habit Rouge and Jicky. That aside, naming the concentration reviewed would be helpful for all of the reviews. For example Cuir de Russie: is that the parfum or the EDT?
    The matter has been raised in the Nowsmellthis Q&A yesterday. Did you see it? Luca said that they were always the same perfumes in different concentrations. The answer surprised me, because it was only towards the end of last year that he became aware of the different Chanels No5. (Dreamjob). Even if Vol de Nuit, L'Heure Bleue, Cuir de Russie and others really differed in concentration only, my nose tells me something else. As a rule of thumb, the EDP usually smells a lot better, and I rather have a mini of this or nothing.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  12. #72

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    [Here's the interview with Bourdon (and Malle):

    http://www.lesechos.fr/info/metiers/4582913.htm

    Pour réussir ce pari audacieux, il fait appel à des « auteurs » habituellement dans les coulisses, qui pour la première fois de leur carrière signent un flacon de parfum de leur nom. Ainsi de Jean-Claude Ellena, devenu depuis parfumeur maison chez Hermès, d'Edouard Fléchier, recruté dès lors par Chanel, ou encore de Pierre Bourdon, considéré « comme l'un des parfumeurs les plus innovants de son époque ». Ce dernier, à la tête de son laboratoire Fragrance Ressources, reconnaît qu'« être anonyme » ne le dérange pas : « C'est la loi du genre dans notre métier. Le plus important, c'est d'échapper à la censure du système financier et d'être dans la contestation. Un créateur est révolutionnaire par essence. » Ce parfumeur sait de quoi il parle. Il y a une vingtaine d'années, pour lancer « Cool Water », aujourd'hui mondialement connu, il a mis cinq ans : deux ans de travail et trois autres pour convaincre une société de le diffuser, après sept refus. « J'ai même failli jeter la formule. » Finalement, le groupe Davidhoff ose l'aventure, et ne le regrette pas.


    Perhaps both Luca Turin and Michael Edwards need to revise the statements regarding GIT.[/quote]


    Z.Z. Top, thanks for the search and backing me up!
    I've been searchin for this. I've read it in another interview with Bourdon, also. I 've been posting about this now and then on BN, but you know, the proof. The lost interview, but now you found some info.

    Noone seemed to question this,yet, at the same time the GIT,Coolwater comparisons were numerous. It is so weird.Think about it:
    Bourdon mentioned that it took him 3 years to convince companies to sell his formula, untill Davidoff released it (Coolwater) in 1988.
    But:
    Creed claims they made Green Irish Tweed and released it in 1985 and now we have the mention of Bourdon being the creator of Green Irish Tweed?! (and Coolwater?)

    So either: Bourdon made a damn good copy of Green Irish Tweed with Coolwater, but then why the mentioning of the 3 years trying to "release"it in several interviews, while at the same time, he made (and sold) Green Irish Tweed in 1985?
    And if Michael Edwards is right and Bourdon created both Green Irish Tweed and Coolwater , why did Bourdon create Green Irish Tweed for Creed, and giving Oliver Creed all the credit for making it? That's hard to believe.

    I can't believe otherwise than Oliver Creed really created Green Irish Tweed.

    I wish someone had the knowledge,or the guts, to share the truth or at least bring some light in this matter, for the simple fact that Green Irish Tweed and Coolwater will never dissapear.
    Or at least admit that there is made an error in facts along the way.
    I wanna know,.. I wanna know!

    P.S. Still no mail back from the Creed website about my question, but I'm not suprised to be honest. I think they either don't know it themselfs, or they are afraid to answer it on this board.
    Last edited by eric; 15th April 2008 at 10:26 PM.

  13. #73

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    The matter has been raised in the Nowsmellthis Q&A yesterday. Did you see it? Luca said that they were always the same perfumes in different concentrations. The answer surprised me, because it was only towards the end of last year that he became aware of the different Chanels No5. (Dreamjob). Even if Vol de Nuit, L'Heure Bleue, Cuir de Russie and others really differed in concentration only, my nose tells me something else. As a rule of thumb, the EDP usually smells a lot better, and I rather have a mini of this or nothing.
    He says something similar in the book as well, though he noted there that sometimes the higher concentrations will have higher quality ingredients, and in some cases may in fact be different formulations. My experiences jives with yours. I can wear Habit Rouge EDC all day in any weather, the EDT was way too heavy, overly vanillic and much sweeter (the memory is dim now, I admit) to the point of being unwearable for me.

  14. #74
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    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    For me, the best thing about the book is all the stuff at the beginning. I mean, a lot of it goes over familiar ground, but it is so well-put, so entertaining and informative, that even if it's old news to me, it's a joy to read. I wish my prose were as entertaining, glib, and knowledgeable as Turin's and Sánchez's. It also helps that they confirm most of my prejudices on a number of sometimes controversial topics!

    The individual reviews are slightly less interesting, although they still manage to get and hold my attention. Of course, there are two people reviewing, and they don't have identical tastes (what two people do?), so that's a factor in weighing their opinions. I find I agree with them (especially with Luca) about the classics and the great old houses like Guerlain and Chanel. I do think he can be kind of dismissive and arbitrary at times. That mostly shows up in his panning of things I really like. No surprise there, I hope.

    The best thing about the review section is that it has given me ideas for new things to try, or in some cases, has knocked me over the fence in one direction or the other about things I was in the process or trying or considering. Also, it is encouraging me to revisit some things and look for facets the reviews mention about them.

    On my personal rating chart, I'd give the book five stars. Even where it falls down a bit, it's a great read. And who cares if I agree with everything they say? I didn't expect to anyway.
    Last edited by JaimeB; 15th April 2008 at 10:37 PM.
    Yr good bud,

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  15. #75

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR View Post
    And, why no Montales? Are they not popular enough, not deemed interesting enough, or is it just a fluke oversight? Or is the number of scents you wanted to cover limited and therefore you only covered those that interested you the most, or that you found most relevant to the fragrance fanatic community?
    I was wondering the same thing, I went cover to cover looking for a Montale reference lol. Also, it was sad to see my entire collection get trashed with 1 or 2 stars... especially my favourites: Bleecker Street, Amouage Arcus, Rose 31, Guerlain SDV, VS For Him, pretty much all of my Creeds... There were also many notable omissions from the book, although I suppose he doesn't have time to get to every scent, or he might be leaving out juicy reviews for the sequel...
    --------------------------------------
    It was also good insight into good fragrances from brands I wouldn't otherwise try, because I am prejudice against the brand, such as Nautica Voyage, Beyond Paradise, Tommy Girl, White Linen, Pleasures, Tocade, ect.
    Last edited by somethinpositiv; 16th April 2008 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  16. #76

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    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    I'm very entertained by the book and quite happy with my purchase...

    But since Mr. Turin has said that they may include Montales in a new edition, may I suggest including Molinard and Agatha Brown as well? I missed them.
    [correction]
    Habanita is included. My bad. I was looking for 'les masculines' - madrigal and rafale.
    [/correction]

    I did find many of the review 'laugh out loud' funny and I certainly don't mind that the author's opinions diverged from my own.
    Last edited by radix023; 16th April 2008 at 10:28 PM. Reason: habanita!

  17. #77

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR View Post
    \
    And, why no Montales? Are they not popular enough, not deemed interesting enough, or is it just a fluke oversight? Or is the number of scents you wanted to cover limited and therefore you only covered those that interested you the most, or that you found most relevant to the fragrance fanatic community?

    I was basically going to order it online until I heard there were no Montale. Now I want to look at it first, though I imagine there's enough in there to make it worth while. That's a real disappointment for me - praise or rants, I love to read informed opinions about them. There's been alot of good back and forth about the line here which I've found really interesting.
    I noticed no Montales as well (especially since there were smaller houses that were covered in the book).

    My 3 cents
    1) this was a riproaring good read.
    2) I may not agree with them, but it at least got me nosing through my collection to see what they are talking about
    3) (and maybe most importantly), the book made me want to try new stuff that I am not familiar with.

    I will admit that the star system, to me, was not nearly as valuable as the detailed notes. Is it a "good" 3 star ( a scent much better than expected) or a "bad" 3 star (the opposite.

    The important part is the conversation - which seems to have been sorely lacking up until the advent of Makeup Alley, Basenotes, Chandler Burr and Luca Turin/Tania Sanchez. The conversation alone may be what saves the industry.

    Looking forward to version 2.0.
    Sakecat's Scent Project
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  18. #78

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Skimmed thru most of it. My first observation is all the notably omissions. There are many important, relevant & groundbreaking frags not in there. I do realize that he can't review everything, but these should be in there.

    - Dunhill (1934)
    - Dunhill Edition
    - Le Male (you/he may not like but it certainly turned Men's frags on it's ear)
    - Helmut Lang Cuiron
    - Roger & Gallet - Extra Vieille
    - Roger & Gallet - Open
    - Penhaligons - Opus 1870
    - Penhailgons - Castile
    - L'Occitane - Eau de Occitan
    - L'Occitane - Neroil EdP (old version)
    - L'Occitane - Eau des Baux
    - Rochas - Lui
    - YSL - Opium PH EdP
    - Davidoff - Zino
    - Escada PH

    Are there any I missed?
    "I exist for myself, and for those to whom my unquenchable thirst for freedom gives everything, but also for everyone, since insofar as I am able to love - I love everyone. Of noble hearts, I am the noblest - and the most generous of those that yearn to give love in return. - I am a human being, I love death and I love life."

    Egon Schiele - Self-Potrait


    My classics: Dior Homme EdT, YSL Rive Gauche PH, Helmut Lang Cuiron, L'Occitane Neroli (vintage), Davidoff Zino, L'Occitane Eau des Baux

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  19. #79

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Spy Magazine created an Index for The Andy Warhol Diaries in 1989. Perfumes/The Guide has one done by star ratings. I started an index by company. So far this is what I got for Estee Lauder. I've included Clinique, Perscriptives, Tom Ford and Tommy Hillfiger, as they are all part of the Estee Lauder world.
    The list does not include Origins, yet.
    10 Five Stars Fragrances out of the 87. The Five Star category is the smallest class and Estee Lauder owns 11.5% of the real estate. WOW!
    Alliage ****
    Azuree *****
    Beautiful ****
    Beautiful Love ***
    Beautiful Sheer ***
    Beyond Paradise *****
    Beyond Paradise Blue ****
    Beyond Paradise Men *****
    Clinique Aromatics Elixir *****
    Perscriptives Calyx *****
    Cinnabar ****
    Dazzling Gold ***
    Dazzling Silver ****
    Estee ** - Only 2 stars, WHAT HAPPENED HERE?
    Clinique Happy ***
    Clinique Happy for Men ***
    Intuition **
    Intuition for Men ***
    Knowing *****
    Peasures *****
    Pleasures Exotic ***
    Pleasures for Men ***
    Pleasures Intense ***
    Private Collection *****
    Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia ****
    Pure White Linen ****
    Spellbound * 1 star?
    Tom Ford Black Orchid ***
    Tom Ford for Men ***
    Tommy Girl *****
    White Linen *****
    Youth Dew ****
    Youth Dew Amber Nude ****
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 17th April 2008 at 06:06 PM.

  20. #80
    Brielle87's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    As a rule of thumb, the EDP usually smells a lot better, and I rather have a mini of this or nothing. [/SIZE]


    Just to give a little clarity; with No 5 Chanel, the edp does smell quite different to my nose than both the extrait or the edt, or even the cologne (not that I enjoy the cologne, fades too quickly). I have a vintage extrait, a newer extrait, the edp and the edt, and the edp just has something there that is a little out of sync. It is not that it is 'bad' or 'off' per-se, but it is just not a close member of the family, so to speak, it is closer to a cousin than a sibling. This is one of the very few times I would ever 'ever' suggest an edt over an edp.
    So I do understand why it received a lower rating from M. Turin, I have always felt that way myself; it just does not measure up.
    I will eventually put my 99% full bottle of edp on ebay, better than having it collect dust chez-moi (at my home)
    --------------------------------------
    Oh, and if anyone wants to experience a great animal type of classic, you must try Azuree. It completely deserves all 5 stars it was rewarded. It is the closest thing on the market resembling what Cabochard once was, or even the original Sikkim by Lancome. It is like the classic leather chypre scent, but it has florals and woods in it to round it out. It is truly a fragrant journey back to a lost age of scent.
    Last edited by Brielle87; 17th April 2008 at 05:12 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  21. #81

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by manicboy View Post
    Skimmed thru most of it. My first observation is all the notably omissions. There are many important, relevant & groundbreaking frags not in there. I do realize that he can't review everything, but these should be in there.
    - Dunhill (1934)
    - Dunhill Edition...
    Are there any I missed?
    How disappointing. Still waiting for the book, I now fear that there may be a rather short list for Santa Maria Novella 's 51 fragrances too. There are seven old perfumes (1827 -1939) including Garofano, Potpourri, Peau d'Espagne, Iris, and Colonia Russa. Have they been reviewed?
    Let's hope they didn't 'refuse' to send a big box of bottles to the couple in London. Who's to blame when a perfume house (Montale) hasn't heard of Dr.Turin or Miss Sanchez yet? The quality of a comprehensive guide shouldn't suffer from that (my 2 cents).
    Last edited by narcus; 17th April 2008 at 05:46 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  22. #82

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    How diasappointing. Still waiting for the book, I now fear that there may be a rather short list for Santa Maria Novella 's 51 fragrances too. There are seven old perfumes (1827 -1939) including Garofano, Potpourri, Peau d'Espagne, Iris and Colonia Russa. Have they been reviewed?
    There isn't one SMN review. I guess they didn't send any samples in as opposed to Estee Lauder which had a Mack truck pull up to the Turin's home.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 17th April 2008 at 05:40 AM.

  23. #83

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    There isn't one SMN review. I guess they didn't send any samples in as opposed to Estee Lauder which had a Mack truck pull up to the Turin's home.
    Helg / Perfume Shrine had told Caron fans that they would be in for a bumpy landing. Ruggles, thank you for telling me where the exit is, but where's my parachute?
    Last edited by narcus; 17th April 2008 at 07:13 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  24. #84

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Well my copy arrived today and my thoughts are very polarised. I love the essays at the beginning. I find the reviews highly disappointing, sometimes just clearly wrong but mostly just written from a perspective with has little utility- that of perfume as an art form. This is interesting but not much use when trying to decide which perfumes to buy to wear.

    Suffice it to say, the perspective and specific tastes with which these reviews are written is so significant that I feel they useless for me, other than as occasionally funny and often witty entertainment. Basenotes reviews are far better and more useful, if less funny.
    Last edited by hirch_duckfinder; 17th April 2008 at 09:52 PM. Reason: make it better
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  25. #85

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post
    Well my copy arrived today and my thoughts are very polarised. I love the essays at the beginning. I find the reviews highly disappointing, sometimes just clearly wrong but mostly just written from a perspective with has little utility- that of perfume as an art form. This is interesting but not much use when trying to decide which perfumes to buy to wear.

    Suffice it to say, the perspective and specific tastes with which these reviews are written is so significant that I feel they useless for me, other than as occasionally funny and often witty entertainment. Basenotes reviews are far better and more useful, if less funny.

    I basically agree with you, HD. I enjoyed The Emperor of Scent and The Secret of Scent but overall I did not care for this one. The initial essays were well done and engaging and, yes, BN reviews and the more thoughtful ones on MUA better suit my needs.

    Taste in fragrance is so subjective that the review section of the definitive guide (most of the book) is largely a definitive guide to the taste of LT and TS. When LT loves something the writing is frequently sublime, but when he dislikes a scent his comments are acidic and those who wear the scent in question will feel trashed. The more abrasive reviews were curt and angry in tone. If the goal was to educate I think there are better ways than to disparage.

  26. #86

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Turin defines a five star fragrance as a masterpiece. *****

    With 11, five star fragrances, Guerlain is the leader. Jean-Paul Guerlain is credited with the creation of 5 of these, as is Jacques Guerlain. Aime, is responsible for 1.
    Not surprising for a company that has hundreds of scents and two centuries of history.

    What is surprising is Estee Lauder coming in at 2nd, with 10 five star designated fragrances, (I've included one from Prescriptives, Clinique and Tommy Hillfiger divisions of Estee Lauder in my total, with out these three, Lauder would tie with Chanel for 2nd place). Turin believes in the Lauder products, which have actually only been around since 1946. Personally, I find the majority of them to be rather mainstream, often following trends rather than setting them. Obviously Turin feels differently than me.

    As I've stated above, Chanel is in 3rd place with 7, five star fragrances. Fair enough.

    Christian Dior is next with a slightly skimpy 5.

    Followed by Serge Lutens in 4th place with 4 masterpieces to his credit. We'll see if this holds up over time.

    More to follow........
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 18th April 2008 at 04:41 AM.

  27. #87
    Basenotes Plus

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    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Paid $20.21 including shipping from www.buy.com and it arrived within 3 days. I love this book and agree with most of the evaluations on the ones I know. There are a few highly touted frags I will have to now try for both me and my girlfriend.

  28. #88
    ubuandibeme's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    After calculating stats of my own ratings vs. Perfume Guide ratings, I agree with Turin and Sanchez 79% of the time. I was quite suprised to discover this fact. The one point Turin includes in his ratings - chemistry and the ability to perform difficult chemistry tasks - is a point with which I have no knowledge or personal reference. Therefore, I can only rate a frag based soley upon olfactory conclusions.

  29. #89

    Default Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by manicboy View Post
    Skimmed thru most of it. My first observation is all the notably omissions. There are many important, relevant & groundbreaking frags not in there. I do realize that he can't review everything, but these should be in there.

    - Dunhill (1934)
    - Dunhill Edition
    - Le Male (you/he may not like but it certainly turned Men's frags on it's ear)
    - Helmut Lang Cuiron
    - Roger & Gallet - Extra Vieille
    - Roger & Gallet - Open
    - Penhaligons - Opus 1870
    - Penhailgons - Castile
    - L'Occitane - Eau de Occitan
    - L'Occitane - Neroil EdP (old version)
    - L'Occitane - Eau des Baux
    - Rochas - Lui
    - YSL - Opium PH EdP
    - Davidoff - Zino
    - Escada PH

    Are there any I missed?
    Forgot:

    Versace - The Dreamer
    Bulgari PH
    Goutal - Eau d'Harien EdT

    To add, the more I read the less enthused I am with his writing. I think he should have taken more time with many of the reviews. Perhaps a scent pyramid may have been in order though there may be some debate as to what the "official" notes are. Still, a more thorough "encyclopedia" is needed in my opinion.

    What is his infatuation with Estee Lauder? I've yet to try Lauder for Men (where to find this?), but all others I've tried were mediocre at best.
    "I exist for myself, and for those to whom my unquenchable thirst for freedom gives everything, but also for everyone, since insofar as I am able to love - I love everyone. Of noble hearts, I am the noblest - and the most generous of those that yearn to give love in return. - I am a human being, I love death and I love life."

    Egon Schiele - Self-Potrait


    My classics: Dior Homme EdT, YSL Rive Gauche PH, Helmut Lang Cuiron, L'Occitane Neroli (vintage), Davidoff Zino, L'Occitane Eau des Baux

    http://www.basenotes.net/wardrobe/2976

  30. #90

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    Thumbs up Re: New Luca Turin book - your thoughts? Here are mine.

    Ordered mine used from Amazon for mere pfennigs and it arrived within three days. Was up for HOURS devouring it. (Yes, I've read his/her others.)

    LUV the jacket photos - he's your adored prickly, erudite prof with the bemuzed twinkle in the eye - she's the cute-as-a-button wife who has no trouble saying "sometimes he's wrong" (Not - "I don't agree"....) and answers forever the burning question "What is the one fragrance that drives men stark raving mad?" (Answer: Bacon.)

    Had that feeling of pride when many of my faves got their high fives (Joy - L'Heure Bleue - Tommy Girl) Pouted when loved ones got kicked to the curb (VIW - Fantasy - Muguet de Bonheur) "Validated" (I knew there was lavender in New Haarlem, even though it's not listed in the notes. And Missoni's worth *****!!)

    I learned a lot - I'm still having a great time re-reading. Check it out. :bounce:
    Last edited by TaoLady; 19th April 2008 at 03:45 PM. Reason: Important addition
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

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