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  1. #1

    Exclamation L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    Bertrand Duchaufour, probably the most adept at using incense notes and author of fragrances such as Timbuktu, Mechant Loup, Kyoto and others, has been hired by L'Artisan parfumeurs as their in-house perfumer.

    Good move? Bad move?

    http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scenteds...isan.html#more
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  2. #2
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    These are a few of his other creations. Most were done under time constraints and the houses often wanted him to use the accords he’s already famous for. He’s one of the most talented perfumers out there and will have far more freedom as an in-house perfumer. An excellent move.


    Acqua di Parma Cipresso di Toscana (2005)
    Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta (2003, with Jean Claude Ellena)
    Amouage Jubilation XXV for Men (2007)
    Comme des Garcons series 1, Leaves: Calamus & Mint (2000)
    Comme des Garcons series 2, Red: Harissa & Sequoia (2001)
    Comme des Garcons series 3, Incense: Avignon (2002)
    Comme des Garcons series 3, Incense: Kyoto (2002)
    Comme des Garcons series 5, Sherbet: Cinnamon & Peppermint (2003)
    Comme des Garcons series 5, Sherbet: Rhubarb (2003)
    Eau d'Italie Bois d'Ombrie (2006)
    Eau d'Italie Eau d'Italie (2005)
    Eau d'Italie Paestum Rose (2006)
    Eau d'Italie Sienne l'Hiver (2006)
    Lalique Flora Bella (2005)
    L'Artisan Aedes de Venustas (2006, home fragrance)
    L'Artisan Dzongkha (2006)
    L'Artisan Mechant Loup (1997)
    L'Artisan Patchouli Patch (2002, with Evelyne Boulanger)
    L'Artisan Timbuktu (2004)

    Last edited by pluran; 18th April 2008 at 04:45 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  3. #3

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    Colonia Assoluta? Must be a great nose

  4. #4

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    I say good move too. Thanks Pluran for posting the list. It is a list of great ones: Kyoto, Patchouli Patch, and Timbuktu are great ones in my collection. Dzongkha might be joining them.

    Great that L'Artisan picks a guy who can make a wide range of things, and be an edge-pusher as the house grows and grows.
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  5. #5

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    When a house acquires an in-house perfumer, what is the likelihood that another perfumer would be asked/allowed to make a new fragrance? No more Olivia Giacobetti for L'Artisan?
    Last edited by ChrisW; 18th April 2008 at 05:16 AM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    GREAT NEWS!
    I wish them all the best and sending him rays of happiness and inspiration!
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  7. #7

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    Very good news indeed! Dzongkha and Timbuktu are among my fave L'Artisan scents and I'm looking forward to his future fragrances.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  8. #8

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    Great news! I can't wait to sample Eau de Liane, his new but unreleased creation for L'artisan as part of the travel series.

  9. #9

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    Brilliant move for L'Artisan, and, I hope, for Duchaufour as well.
    Behemoth cut a slice of pineapple, salted it, peppered it, ate it, and then tossed off a second glass of alcohol so dashingly that everyone applauded.

  10. #10

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    I am totally on a wavelength with Bertrand Duchaufour. Without a doubt, he is my favorite perfumer.
    This is AWESOME for L'Artisan. Perhaps more potent and longer lasting scents. YAY!

  11. #11

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    Holder of the famous incense torch award !
    Last edited by narcus; 18th April 2008 at 07:23 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  12. #12

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    These are a few of his other creations. Most were done under time constraints and the houses often wanted him to use the accords he’s already famous for. He’s one of the most talented perfumers out there and will have far more freedom as an in-house perfumer. An excellent move.
    Totally agreed!!!

  13. #13

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisW View Post
    When a house acquires an in-house perfumer, what is the likelihood that another perfumer would be asked/allowed to make a new fragrance? No more Olivia Giacobetti for L'Artisan?
    I have been wondering about this too, not only Olivia Giacobetti but also Anne Flipo.
    L'Artisan for me is very much light and bright floral scents, so hiring Bertrand Duchaufour was a surprising move from L'Artisan, though Duchaufour has worked many times for L'Artisan in the past. L'Artisan has shown its desire to develop towards new directions, that much is clear, and I hope this collaboration will turn out to be fruitful, Duchaufour is after all very talented.

  14. #14

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    A great move by L'Artisan. Might be a litttle limiting for Bertrand. He is creator of many of my favorites. A new one that was just released that he created for Miller Harris is called En Sens de Bois and is masterful. It stands up there with Jubilation XXV, Avignon, Kyoto, Timbuktu for quality of incense.

    Bravo for L'Artisan.

  15. #15

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    He's extremely talented and creative. I'll look forward to having a sniff of any of his creations. I just hope he doesn't do what Jean Claude Ellena did when he became Herme's in-house perfumer. Mr. Ellena hasn't done anything worth buying since he chose to be Herme's in-house perfumer.

  16. #16

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    What does an in-house perfumer do as a job description? Don't the big 6 fragrance/flavorings companies do the creation of the scents to the budget and aesthetic goals of their clients?
    Last edited by Bromo33333; 18th April 2008 at 07:21 PM.
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  17. #17

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    His resume speaks for him. It was obviously a good choice.

    .

  18. #18

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    Quote Originally Posted by DustB View Post
    Great that L'Artisan picks a guy who can make a wide range of things, and be an edge-pusher as the house grows and grows.

    Do Parfumeurs (I hope I'm using the correct term) as talented as this get picked up by a House such as L'Artisan or do the Parfumeurs decide with whom they want to go? Or is it a mutual agreement? Who solicits whom? I would think that in some cases the House would have the upper hand and in others the Parfumeur. What's the case here? I'm not really sure how it all works.
    Last edited by zestyfresh; 18th April 2008 at 10:07 PM.

  19. #19

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    Looks like a good move to me.
    Gary

  20. #20

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    I feel somewhat bittersweet about this news.
    I think it was a wise decision (i admire BD very much) for L'Artisan, but at the same, i am really going to miss Olivia Giacobetti's contributions to the house.

  21. #21

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    Good decision. Lets see what comes out of the arrangement.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    It is not just a coincidence that Dachaufour did some of the best scents in the Comme des Garcons line (just look at that list that pluran posted - wow!). I say, good move, indeed.

    Good for me to, because my Neiman Marcus has an in-house L'Artisan booth with all of the scents making it extremely easy for me to get ahold of these scents, sample and learn about.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 19th April 2008 at 02:26 AM.

  23. #23

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    I'm really bummed if it means no more Olivia Giacobetti for L'Artisan. I've sampled most of their line and the three I own (and love very much) are Dzing!, Passage d'Enfer, and Fou d'Absinthe, which I think are all by Olivia G. Does anyone know if this news threatens the continued production of these three? I'm especially concerned about Passage d'Enfer, since incense is his specialty. i'd be really interested to hear from anyone out there who knows how these kinds of things generally play out. Is it back-up bottle time or would that be a silly over-reaction?

  24. #24

    Default Re: L'Artisan hires the King of Darkness as in-house perfumer

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    [...] my Neiman Marcus has an in-house L'Artisan booth with all of the scents [...]
    Colour me jealous!

    The best gamne in town locally is Macy's and Sephora. I'd *kill* for a local Barney's and/or Neimann!
    ===
    “… [I] recall thinking that the computer would never advance much further than this. Call me naïve, but I seemed to have underestimated the universal desire to sit in a hard plastic chair and stare at a screen until your eyes cross.” ~ David Sedaris

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