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  1. #1

    Default Vintage Guerlain Vetiver, Nina Ricci Philers and YSL pour Homme...help appreciated...

    Hi fellas!

    While grabbing bottles from a local seller of the original yohji for women (which some seller is selling on Ebay for 489USD for a 100ml!!!!), which I managed to find at a steal, I also found that the local seller had bottles of Guerlain Vetiver EDT in the older styled bottle, a never-heard-before Nina Ricci tester of Philers (the notes listed were oakmoss, oakmoss and more oakmoss on the bottle), and YSL pour Homme in the red cap (which year was this from?) Now, the questions:

    Is the older Guerlain Vetiver different form the newer ones? (thanks to the reformulation bug!). Mr Guerlain?

    What's the scoop on the Philers? Should I have grabbed it? What about the YSL pour Homme? I already had a few perfumes on my hands, so these two had to be given a miss, though the Vetiver softens down to a soft powdery smell on my skin.

    Thanks guys.
    Last edited by Petals; 22nd April 2008 at 02:39 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain Vetiver, Nina Ricci Philers and YSL pour Homme...help appreciate

    In my opinion the old version of GV (from 1961) is profoundly different from the new formulation. And I happen to think that it hasn't changed for the better. But others here will tell you differently. It's a personal thing I guess.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain Vetiver, Nina Ricci Philers and YSL pour Homme...help appreciate

    Hello,

    Not sure which version of Vetiver you've spotted but the very original one is said to have been more raw and earthy and is highly regarded by many. Another theory says that although reformulation did make the juice lighter and brighter; additionally, the old juice smells richer/darker because it's been sitting for so many years and naturally, the top notes have suffered. Depending on how much you'll have to pay (since VdG is not terribly expensive anyway); how discerning your nose is; and how picky you are about such variations; it's probably a good addition to any wardrobe. Hopefully the juice hasn't turned but I have to say you cannot be considered a fragrance enthusiast (let alone a perfumista!) in my book without some version of VdG in your wardrobe.

    The Nina Ricci Philleas (sp?), I don't know about but it is discontinued and highly regarded. It's probably something you should acquire. Check to see if there are any reviews on BN. NR scents don't seem to be striking the chord I thought they would with me. I have Signoricci in my wardrobe. I'm happy with it as a citrus scent.

    YSL Pour Homme is from 1971, the first YSL mens' scent. Reputed to have been created for Mr. SL himself as his personal scent and was marketted later. It's a simple composition, a classy citrus with a "dusty" vetiver base. The red cap is the original version, EDT concentration (trust me, concentrated enough). The black cap is the concentrated version. For a good price, this is another item you should have in your wardrobe. I chose to stick with the concentrated version but either one is a masterpiece that I use instead of any other "cologne" style scent (this, and Armani Eau Pour Homme, that is).

    Even though I can't see your wardrobe and don't know about your style or needs, they all look good to me.
    Check out the reviews and some prices to compare (e.g., on-line retailers--just to get an idea).
    I'd say go for them!

    RM

  4. #4
    Dimitrios's Avatar
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain Vetiver, Nina Ricci Philers and YSL pour Homme...help appreciate

    Ninna Ricci .. Phileas ..... i have never heard of Philers have you made a typo mistake ?

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  5. #5

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain Vetiver, Nina Ricci Philers and YSL pour Homme...help appreciate

    Hey guys,

    Yes, I guess I 'understood' the name wrong when I looked at it in the store. Phileas it is! Dimitrios, you know something about it?

    Renaissance Man - I am a woman who does not care about gendered scents, so I wear everything. I love Guerlain... and already have Habit Rouge and Heritage on top of all the classics in my collection. For some reason, I think the newer Vetiver turns bitter/sour on my skin but the older one, as I smell it now, is a soft powdery smell. I also seem to like the older bottle, with the green label, (like Habit rouge is in red) compared to the new one. It was not pricey at all.

    Phileas - I can guess it's rare. So, now I don't know if I should buy it for it's rarity or the smell. Did I tell you I have 350 ++ scents in my collection already... sigh.

    Thanks so much.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain Vetiver, Nina Ricci Philers and YSL pour Homme...help appreciate

    Oh Phileas that must be. yep. Never had the chance to smell it though.
    YSL PH is a sparkling bitter citrus with black thyme and vetiver giving it an herbal dirty vibe, very 70's YSL style, yet still alluring.
    Ah, and yep, you won't get for sure the slightly powdery drydown from the new version of GV that has become almost a citrus juice rather than a tobaccoish vetyver

  7. #7

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain Vetiver, Nina Ricci Philers and YSL pour Homme...help appreciate

    About Guerlain's Vetiver new versus old - it's a hot debate! I have the three editions - old, newer, newest - and have sniffed them all profoundly. My belief now is that the - very obvious - difference is only due to ageing of the juice. The old juice's very deep colour suggests that also. In my head, the newest edition is by far the best. But the old one - with almost no top notes left - is quite interesting, actually. But not as good as the new, sparkling, bitter stuff!

  8. #8

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain Vetiver, Nina Ricci Philers and YSL pour Homme...help appreciate

    "...I have 350 ++ scents in my collection already... sigh."

    Then there's no question that you MUST get Phileas. Seriously.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain Vetiver, Nina Ricci Philers and YSL pour Homme...help appreciate

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Guerlain View Post
    My belief now is that the - very obvious - difference is only due to ageing of the juice.
    I have pretty reliable information that the new version(s) have been reformulated. A local perfume seller who wore GV for 30 Years has repeatedly contacted Guerlain on this topic. So he told me. At first they insisted that the formula remained unchanged but upon further inquiry they admitted to have "modernized" the scent.
    Last edited by Ender; 22nd April 2008 at 06:17 PM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain Vetiver, Nina Ricci Philers and YSL pour Homme...help appreciate

    Quote Originally Posted by rex View Post
    I have pretty reliable information that the new version(s) have been reformulated. A local perfume seller who wore GV for 30 Years has repeatedly contacted Guerlain on this topic. So he told me. At first they insisted that the formula remained unchanged but upon further inquiry they admitted to have "modernized" the scent.
    Yes, as I said, it's a big debate, and many rumours exist. I don't have any waterproof knowledge, I'm afraid. I can just say that I find my newest bottle to be by far the best one. Unbeatable.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain Vetiver, Nina Ricci Philers and YSL pour Homme...help appreciate

    Phileas - a kinder, gentler Yatagan.
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain Vetiver, Nina Ricci Philers and YSL pour Homme...help appreciate

    the_good_life: "Phileas - a kinder, gentler Yatagan."

    Then that must be very similar to Aramis Devin. I always describe AD in that way.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain Vetiver, Nina Ricci Philers and YSL pour Homme...help appreciate

    The old Vetiver is definitely different than the the new. I feel it's more than just age.

    I'm one of the few that appreciates them both equally.

    The scent grows richer, he knows he must be near
    He finds a long passageway lit by chandelier
    Each step he takes, the perfumes change
    From familiar fragrance to flavours strange
    A magnificent chamber meets his eye

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