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Thread: Guerlain Derby

  1. #1

    Default Guerlain Derby

    I bought samples (both vintage and reformulated) of Derby after reading Turin's book -- he lists it as one of the ten best men's fragrances around. I wasn't disappointed. I haven't spent a lot of time with either sample, but I find them very similar. Both are superb.

    I'm a little surprised Derby isn't written about more here. The reviews of Derby are consistently good, but it's not one that gets hyped much (as far as I can remember). And I have to say, it's one of the best I've smelled.

    Where can I buy a full bottle of this stuff?
    Christian Dior VetiverPatou Pour HommeChristian Dior Leather OudOrmonde Jayne Ormonde ManSerge Lutens Chene

  2. #2

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I love Derby as well.
    I only have a decant of the old juice though. I haven't tried the newer one. Your thoughts on the differences would be appreciated UngerWoo.

    I understand it has been discontinued once again due to the ridiculous EU regulations.
    In the States, it may still be available at Bergdorff Goodman in NYC. Give them a call. If it's there, expect to pay dearly as they made the reformulation an exclusive.

    You can always try E-Bay for a bottle of the vintage juice, it pops up from time to time. Possibly try Guerlain in Paris if they still have any or a friend who lives over there.

    Eric

  3. #3

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I cannot add much to evogel's excellent suggestions - I would just add that frequent checking of the Basenote's MarketPlace almost always pays dividends.

    Derby shows up fairly regularly.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I have a sample lying around that I still haven't gotten around to.

    I've been waiting, because so many compared Derby to Devin by Aramis - and I loved Devin growing up. So I want to do a side-by-side with both of them. Maybe I'll do that tomorrow...

  5. #5

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Maybe its a generational thing ... but to me, Derby isn't all that interesting ... it feels a bit like the Emperor's new clothes.
    Last edited by bront82; 26th April 2008 at 06:26 AM.
    Oh please, if everyone around here is going to start telling the truth, I'm going to bed. - The House of Yes

  6. #6

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Derby IS a striking scent - Jean-Paul Guerlain managed to marry a classic fougère with a leathery chypre base - and even to put in some mint that is so seamlessly inserted that you don't really recognise it as mint, just as something slightly spicy.

    Honestly, I prefer the reissue, I'm not sure if I think that the vintage juice of Derby has been preserved as well as other vintage Guerlains (I own two different vintage Derby, one slightly older than the other, and the top notes in the reissue is significantly better than in both of them).

    It's funny that it's inside Luca Turin's book - they only review available perfumes, and also the reissue has been discontinued now. But I know that some stock is still around. Perhaps Bergdorff Goodman in NY has some? I think it's very expensive to have it shipped from Paris (where I've been told they still have some Derby in stock).

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    The only similarity I detect between Derby and Devin is the number of letters and the specific first two in the names. Devin is a big green galbanum monster; Derby the distinguished leather chypre blend.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I have a full 500ml vintage bottle in perfect condition. Yes, I do feel blessed indeed. Am I the only one on planet earth??
    decant sales:
    Crystal Flacon

  9. #9

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by dr.creed View Post
    I have a full 500ml vintage bottle in perfect condition. Yes, I do feel blessed indeed. Am I the only one on planet earth??
    You could take a bath in 500ml!
    Oh please, if everyone around here is going to start telling the truth, I'm going to bed. - The House of Yes

  10. #10

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by bront82 View Post
    You could take a bath in 500ml!
    No, not really.
    decant sales:
    Crystal Flacon

  11. #11

    Exclamation Re: Guerlain Derby

    I'm reviving this thread, and this is why:

    1. I really cannot locate a thread that asks the specific question I have. I've tried a few times, and I apologize if my searching skills aren't that great.
    2. Derby is wonderful and deserves attention.

    Derby is very hard to locate, and when possible it is expensive and something I would probably hoard rather than feel comfortable using.

    The reason I'm asking is because my husband and I just sampled it, based on your excellent suggestions (in a thread I started about helping find my husband a scent...), and we fell in love with it. So now I'm kicking myself that we ever sampled it, because, well, now what to do about it?

    Is there anything of a comparable nature to Derby that is possible to locate, and allow it's continual use (that is; can one assume it can be purchased repeatedly barring any unforeseen discontinuation)?

    Thanks for any help.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I am actually selling my bottle. I have a 100ml bottle of Derby in the bee bottle I just bought from Niemans in San Francisco. I used 30ml of it it so their is 70ml left. Box is included. PM me if you want details. Thanks.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by lushsoup View Post
    I'm reviving this thread, and this is why:

    1. I really cannot locate a thread that asks the specific question I have. I've tried a few times, and I apologize if my searching skills aren't that great.
    2. Derby is wonderful and deserves attention.

    Derby is very hard to locate, and when possible it is expensive and something I would probably hoard rather than feel comfortable using.

    The reason I'm asking is because my husband and I just sampled it, based on your excellent suggestions (in a thread I started about helping find my husband a scent...), and we fell in love with it. So now I'm kicking myself that we ever sampled it, because, well, now what to do about it?

    Is there anything of a comparable nature to Derby that is possible to locate, and allow it's continual use (that is; can one assume it can be purchased repeatedly barring any unforeseen discontinuation)?

    Thanks for any help.
    lushsoup, firstly I think you should confirm that is has been discontinued for good.
    Mr. Guerlain is a most fantastic source but hearing/reading the words directly from Guerlain would ultimately be the best indicator. Perhaps he has but I am not 100% certain.
    Secondly, I'd bet that there is enough juice floating around to enjoy for many years to come if you really want to pay the price. Call Bergdorf Goodman in NYC and check the older threads because I think people mentioned that some Neiman Marcus stores carry it. If I recall correctly, phone #'s for those stores were posted. Also, see cairomerta's post above. :-)
    Lastly, I am sad to say that I do not find anything comparable to Derby. I cannot think of a single juice that would be a literal match for it. You can find several in the same genre but personally, I have never come across a "match" for Derby. Singular, unique and Guerlain.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I recall TwoRoads posting a thread a while back, and he seemed to think Guerlain Derby and Aramis Devin smell very close.

    Quote Originally Posted by lushsoup View Post
    I'm reviving this thread, and this is why:

    1. I really cannot locate a thread that asks the specific question I have. I've tried a few times, and I apologize if my searching skills aren't that great.
    2. Derby is wonderful and deserves attention.

    Derby is very hard to locate, and when possible it is expensive and something I would probably hoard rather than feel comfortable using.

    The reason I'm asking is because my husband and I just sampled it, based on your excellent suggestions (in a thread I started about helping find my husband a scent...), and we fell in love with it. So now I'm kicking myself that we ever sampled it, because, well, now what to do about it?

    Is there anything of a comparable nature to Derby that is possible to locate, and allow it's continual use (that is; can one assume it can be purchased repeatedly barring any unforeseen discontinuation)?

    Thanks for any help.
    Offsite Sales - Updated June7th

    Vintage Dia, Vetiver Dry, Angel parfum, Opium parfum for Sale:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/215962

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by mudassir View Post
    I recall TwoRoads posting a thread a while back, and he seemed to think Guerlain Derby and Aramis Devin smell very close.
    They don't.

    I wore Devin for years (as a teen) and I sampled Derby recently. I think they are not alike at all. I actually don't like Derby (however I do respect and admire it's skillful blending). I love Devin.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

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  16. #16
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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    They don't.

    I wore Devin for years (as a teen) and I sampled Derby recently. I think they are not alike at all. I actually don't like Derby (however I do respect and admire it's skillful blending). I love Devin.
    Agreed. The only things they have in common are "D" and "E".

  17. #17

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by evogel View Post
    lushsoup, firstly I think you should confirm that is has been discontinued for good.
    Mr. Guerlain is a most fantastic source but hearing/reading the words directly from Guerlain would ultimately be the best indicator. Perhaps he has but I am not 100% certain.
    Secondly, I'd bet that there is enough juice floating around to enjoy for many years to come if you really want to pay the price. Call Bergdorf Goodman in NYC and check the older threads because I think people mentioned that some Neiman Marcus stores carry it. If I recall correctly, phone #'s for those stores were posted. Also, see cairomerta's post above. :-)
    Lastly, I am sad to say that I do not find anything comparable to Derby. I cannot think of a single juice that would be a literal match for it. You can find several in the same genre but personally, I have never come across a "match" for Derby. Singular, unique and Guerlain.
    Evogel: I have to do my homework. You are correct. I haven't made sure about the actuality of it's discontinuation and should ask Mr. Guerlain. It sounds like I may be able to locate some, hopefully, in an affordable way too. I just was wondering if there were an "easy" answer. It is kind of stupid of me when I think of it; it's like asking for a substitute for Shalimar. There just is none.

    Cairomerta: I've pm'd you!

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    They don't.

    I wore Devin for years (as a teen) and I sampled Derby recently. I think they are not alike at all. I actually don't like Derby (however I do respect and admire it's skillful blending). I love Devin.
    Mikeperez23: Even if they aren't similar, it sounds like Devin is worth a sniff or two. Thanks for the information.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vibert View Post
    Agreed. The only things they have in common are "D" and "E".
    Vibert: I honor your opinion; I love your reviews and respect your Nose. I'll keep the mere alphabetical similarities in mind when sniffing Devin.

    Thank you all for your input. In thinking about it, it was a rather dumb question on my part. Guerlain's fragrances are basically irreplaceable, and I should just hunt down Derby in the way I have hunted down my other fragrance loves.


  18. #18

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    lushsoup. not a dumb question at all! I certainly understand where you are coming from. As you mention, even if found, there will be some hesitation to wear it because the fragrance is or might be discontinued. Looking for something similar even if you don't find it should prove to be an interesting and enjoyable quest that you can share with your husband.
    Please report back on your findings with Guerlain and anything you find worthy as a replacement or adjunct for Derby. :-)

  19. #19

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Derby is part of Les Parisiennes collection, big bee bottle splash (spray could be attached if you wish to buy it - but some buyers report about nozzle poor quality which tends to clog. Guerlain is ready to replace sprays in boutique only. Sounds like spray decant is better option), 125 ml, around 150-160 euro.

    It does present in Moscow Guerlain boutique right now, so it`s not discontinued.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  20. #20

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Yes, it's true, it's not discontinued after all. Some months ago, Guerlain told me they had to discontinue it because of the EU health regulations, but a few weeks ago, they told me they managed to keep it in the line. So - luckily - it's still available at Guerlain!

  21. #21

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by mudassir View Post
    I recall TwoRoads posting a thread a while back, and he seemed to think Guerlain Derby and Aramis Devin smell very close.
    I can see some of the similarities TwoRoads might see between Devin and Derby;

    I smell Derby as a leather chypre and Devin as a green chypre.

    Devin is all green galbanum at the top, spicy resins at the heart and cedar, leather, incense and amber at the base

    Derby is fresh and herbal at the top with bergamot and artemesia; allspice and florals at the heart; and Leather/moss, vetiver and sandal at the base.

    Very similar structures in many ways... but ultimately different scents.

    I've never been partial to Derby's opening; but the heart and the dry-down are about the best thing in my wardrobe! I love leather chypres, and this is just about my fav!

    Another would be Macassar. I don't know why they ever put that beast out to pasture. It was truly a groundbreaking scent and deservedly so!

    Another Leather Chypre I really enjoy wearing is Bel Ami; many men find it to be quite dated, but when I wear it, I love it, and always receive many complements.
    Last edited by mrclmind; 11th September 2008 at 05:15 PM.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I have a sample I cherish here. I love Derby, very butch but also very 80's.
    I'm not sure I need a whole bottle ,plus it's so expensive to order from Paris.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    What's this?

    I turn my back and there's lively discussion going on!

    Obviously, I can only speak about my own impressions. While others, whose opinions I greatly respect, disagree with me, I still feel that Derby and Devin are extremely similar.

    Here is the thread in question: Is Devin a stand-in for Derby? (Side-by-Side Comparison - Response #9)

    lushsoup, try them side-by-side if you can. At the very least, you will have sampled a great designer fragrance. I get more compliments from Devin than just about other in my collection.

    (Btw, I normally pick my SotDs several days in advance, what a coincidence that Devin is my SotD today. I posted it last night before even opening this thread about Derby.)
    Last edited by TwoRoads; 11th September 2008 at 10:38 AM.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  24. #24

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I have to agree with bront82. There seems to be "no there there" for me. Derby really doesn't develop at all on my skin and smells wonderful on my clothes the next day but not on me. Have tried the reformulated version only.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    I like Derby a lot but not enough to pay the incredible prices it's going for out there.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    The thing is, I am very happy to hunt down Derby and pay what it costs to own it. My husband, unlike me, is quite practical and believes he should have full access to the fragrance he wears, and that it be affordable. We clash in this way, but he kindly humors me about my Guerlain and Chanel (well, other houses, too) historical comparisons. So, frankly Devin may be a good option and it is affordable, accessible, and sounds like a great scent in it's own rank.

    But I may have to get "him" a bottle of Derby for my sake to wear for me, just because I love it, and respect it so. After all, I'm the one asking these questions on this forum.

    Two Roads: Thanks for the link, and what a great side-by-side comparison! I can almost smell them.
    Mr. Guerlain: Thanks for the update about the status of Derby's availability.
    Mrclmind: Great analysis. Very helpful, as are all your analyses.

    Oh, and evogel: Thanks for comforting me that I'm not an idiot for asking the question in the first place.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    lushsoup,

    Devin is not carried in every department store.

    Dillard's has it, perhaps Macy's as well.
    Last edited by TwoRoads; 11th September 2008 at 06:18 PM.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  28. #28

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    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    As my signature states, I have been searching for a Derby sample for quite a while... yes I know TPC probably has samples for sale, and I will take that route soon, but I figured I'd just make one last plea for a small sample (I know it's exclusive). I'm happy to trade any of my niche samples or decant from my wardrobe.

    Many thanks.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Saks in NYC has Derby. Just tried it there yesterday.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    lushsoup, have you tried Kiehlís Pour Homme?

    I tried it yesterday on a recommendation from Renaissance_Man in another thread.
    While it certainly is not a replacement for Derby, when I put on a dab of it (itís an oil, so I used the lid to put a tiny dab on my arm), I was really struck by how the overall effect of the fragrance reminded me instantly of Derby. Of course I had to go home and put some Derby on the opposite arm, just for comparison. Here were my findings:
    Kiehlís Pour Homme didnít really develop much on my skin after the initial strength settled down, whereas of course Derby changes and progresses in the classic style. I think in terms of actual notes Iím smelling, Kiehlís Pour Homme mirrors pretty well the heart of Derby, that is, after Derbyís bright opening of mint and citrus blow over and the spices really come forward. The spices in KPH are a little louder and a little ďhotterĒ or more ďvolatileĒ than in Derby, but I really think there is quite a similarity! As for the dry down, KPH remains spicy, with a soil-like thick base smell behind the spices. Derbyís dry down, to me, is not at all spicy but very smooth, slightly vanillic, powdery and floral at the same time, with a warmth that I attribute to Mysore Sandalwood (at least as far as I remember from smelling Mysore oil a while back, beautiful stuff).
    So while Kiehlís Pour Homme and Derby donít smell the same, especially given Derbyís dramatic progression, I really feel that Kiehlís Pour Homme approximates the overall feeling of Derby better than any other perfume I have smelled.

    AndÖ.your husband will be satisfied with the price. AndÖ.itís on oil and lasts forever on skin, with great projection. One bottle will probably last for years, so even if it is eventually discontinued, you can easily build a lifetime supply!

    Iím glad I found itÖthanks for the tip Renaissance_Man.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by nycmd View Post
    Saks in NYC has Derby. Just tried it there yesterday.
    Bless your heart! I just called and they said they'll ship it if I want it. They said it's the 4.2 oz splash in the bee bottle bell jar for $205.

    So...

    I just ordered it.



    I'll decant some into an atomizer so he can spray at random! 4.2 oz should go a ways too. It's clearly a *practical decision*.

    Two Roads: I had to get a gift for my dad today, and ended up in a fragrance shop (big surprise), and they had Devin. I only smelled it on a strip, but it was much greener than the reissue of Derby I got from TPC. I think I like the warmer leather feeling I got from Derby. I may revisit it again, with a proper trial on skin, but I'm pretty happy about the Derby purchase. Anyway, thank you for your suggestion, and the links.

    Thanks so much guys!

  32. #32

    Default Re: Guerlain Derby

    Quote Originally Posted by lushsoup View Post
    So...

    I just ordered it.


    Congrats!

    I didn't know it was so easily available, especially in the bee bottle!

    ..... I guess I'll just take my Devin and go home........
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

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