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  1. #1

    Default New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    Your favorite incense or minimalist fragrances?

    Do we have a new category of perfume developed since the turn of the century? This new category defies the labels we now have for fragrance, in my opinion. They are not oriental, but sort of, and they are not wood, but are made of woods. Some call them incense, but many don't really smell of traditional incense at all. They are described as minimal, transparent. natural and very subtle. These minimalist frags include the wearer as part of the experience because they become a part of your aura more so than traditional fragrances which seem to be apart from the wearer. Their subtlety often causes muddled reviews because people almost don't know how to tune in their senses to pick up all the subtle nuances.

    In Perfumes, The Guide Luca Turin states, "One day, time permitting and dramatis personae willing, I will trace back to its origins the startlingly novel and beautiful style of perfumery exemplified by Mark(c) Buxton's CdG2W and Bertrand Duchaufour's Timbuktu." Turin goes on to say that apparently Buxton began this style first with Anthracite Homme in '91 four years prior to Duchaufour's first "incense" but the two worked together during the 90's where they solidified this new style. Turin also gives CdG props with "all credit to Comme des Garcons for giving this deceptively minimalist style a space in which to take root and flourish . . .".

    Buxton and Duchaufour created many greats in this style for Comme des Garcons, L' Artisan, and many other houses as well. Other noses have joined this trend too and many houses now try to add to the "incense" category with their own versions.

    This category is what got me intrerested Basenotes in the first place when I discovered CdG Kyoto and Avignon. What are your favorites in this incense/minimalist/transparent/woody style?
    Last edited by Buzzlepuff; 7th May 2008 at 01:44 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    Lalique's Encre Noire comes to mind... so does cK's Be. Both are pretty minimalist.. You don't wear them.. They wear YOU


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  3. #3

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    And, let us not forget the new Incense Extreme by Andy Tauer. This is truly a minimalist creation with, I think, 7 ingredients. It is fantastic.

    Buzzlepuff, thanks for the wonderful post. It is very insightful and has given me lots to think about. Brilliant.
    Last edited by paintrman; 7th May 2008 at 02:35 PM.

  4. #4
    Basenotes Institution
    mikeperez23's Avatar
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    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    Paprika Brasil by Hermes
    Palisander (Series 2: Red) and Sequoia (Series 2: Red) by Comme des Garcons
    mb03 by biehl parfumkunstwerke
    Rousse by Serge Lutens
    Bois Farine by L'Artisan Parfumeur
    Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermes
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

  5. #5

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    Tumulte is entirely cedar and incense on me. Nothing else. No sweeteners, no sparklies, just cedar and incense. It is entirely cedar at first, then the delightful incense joins the party about 20 minutes later and that is all you get. Luckily, I love it, but if I didn't, I would be sitting in the same olfactory discomfort for a long time.

  6. #6

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    Some great ideas.

    Also really impressive in this style is Amouge Jubilation XXV - a multi faceted mystery, but kind of expensive. It has woods, oud, spices, and incense mixed with florals to lighten it up a little - rose, I think.

  7. #7

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    French Lover by Frederic Malle & first hour with Le Labo Vetiver 46

  8. #8

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    Douce Amere - if I didn't know, I would swear it was JCE or Duchaufour (or even Giacobetti) not Sheldrake who did this one. I think it's actually quite complex, but transparent it is.
    Last edited by heythatslife; 7th May 2008 at 05:02 PM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    Perhaps I'm mistaken, but the new Davidoff Adventure would fit well in this category. I'm curious if somebody else does see it, too?

  10. #10

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    Ouarzazate
    Hinoki
    Incense Extreme
    Kyoto

  11. #11
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    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    I think Hindu Grass and Absinthe by Nasomatto can be added to this list.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

  12. #12

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    Molecule 01 and Marc Birley perhaps. They are not my favorite, but perhaps we are missing those.
    However, I do not need the need of creating a new category for these perfumes
    Last edited by irish; 25th May 2008 at 04:48 AM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    Probably not many would agree with this, but I'd say Hypnose Homme falls into this category... if one doesn't exercise the urge to bathe in it.

    Worn lightly, it seems to be so ethereal- subtle hints of lavender and mint appear interspersed with patchouli and musk that blend well into the skin. The problem is, even applied heavily, the scent is still great (to my nose), and many people don't realize that just less is truly more with this one.

  14. #14

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    [QUOTE=whosyourcaddy05;1216806]Tumulte is entirely cedar and incense on me. QUOTE]

    ill second that...of wht i have so far only Tumulte fits the bill.

  15. #15

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    Passage D'Enfre by L'Artisan

  16. #16
    Sur la Plage

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    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    Armani Prive Bois d’Encens
    Bond Silver Factory
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  17. #17

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    I'm still trying to get a handle on this and was about to suggest L'Homme de Coeur. And while it's subtle it's not transparent because of the muskiness and because of something that stands in for, but isn't, an 80's vanilla and moss basenotes accord. There's still a wall of sound thing there. If I think about this lovely, modern masculine in comparison to Timbuktu, for instance, it seems that one of things we're talking about is a relative lack of basenotes. Or basenotes that play a different part in the composition. Whatcha think?

  18. #18

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    All four in the Escentric Molecules range.

  19. #19

    Default Re: New style: deceptively minimalist, transparent, woody . . .

    Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

    From Scent Notes, Chandler Burr's column in NYTimes' T Magazine...

    "Then there is perhaps the most brilliant way to use wood: render it invisible. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, who frequent Sicily, asked the perfumer Olivier Cresp to locate its soul in scent."

    Read the rest of the article here - http://www.nytimes.com/2007/10/07/st...e/07scent.html
    Last edited by lsp_NY; 25th May 2008 at 01:06 PM.

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