NIGHT OF THE LIVING JASMINES
Well, it's almost that bad. Living in an everclear-free state, I'm waiting for my perfumer's alcohol to arrive by post. Thus, I've had to do my experimentation with various mixtures of 50% vodka and 70% isopropanol. I sort of think that the fact I'm getting any results at all is pretty neat. Still, poor solubility and rubbing alcohol topnotes are making this experiment into a sort of beauty pageant between plant monsters, robots, and Miss France. Miss France? That requires some explaining...
I decided that I needed a control for my experiments. The only jasmine scent that I have is... Jasmin de Nuit by The Different Company - a creation of Céline Ellena. Wow! I didn't fully realize just how good her work is until I smelled that "positive control" in comparison with my simple naturals and single-molecule synthetics. It's clear that Céline was able to take a jasmine of some kind (Egyptian according to the web site: http://www.thedifferentcompany.com/S..._62/index.html), and turn it into something even better than nature. Way better. Just beautiful. Wow! I never appreciated modern floral perfumes as much as I am tonight. It's easy for us woodchucks (TGL's term - I love it!) to get fairly detailed and perfumista over our woody scents, but to dismiss a lot of floral scents as simply "floral", or whatever flower is front and center. Well, there's some serious olfactory technology going into floral, boys.
I'm seeing the same thing as other people in terms of my Jasmine Grandiflora (India, CO2) versus my normal Jasmine Absolute (India). The Grandiflora CO2 is much nicer and sweeter than the normal absolute. Definitely less of the fecal, musty, and earthy stuff. Although in drydown the Absolute was quite nice. I would love to have a sample of the Egyptian, which Purplebird preferred over both the Grandiflora and Indian absolute, but if it's anything like the Egyptian jasmine in JdN, then it has to be good.
I pulled out a couple of my jasminy synthetics, hoping that if I was unable to find close agreement of JdN with my jasmine naturals, I might find agreement with a synthetic. I tried hedione, both as a 12% solution and as pure liquid. It had a nice odor, a little floral, but not strong to me (?). Not sure if my nose is simply dead at this point. I was reaching for the coffee quite a bit. Fresh ground is awesome in that respect. And then I pulled out benzyl acetate. Wow! Powerful, fruity stuff, it resembles ethyl acetate (paint & household solvent) and the other acetates used in gunpowder solvents. Lots and lots and lots of volume. Maybe a bit jasminy, but not really. It's totally unlike the naturals, and has major penetration. It's not listed on the bottle of JdN, but a similar substance is - benzyl salicylate - which I'll try later. Now I'm seeing how you could seriously alter a natural odor with something synthetic, and make a ton of money doing it. Robots are lookin' really good right now. But to be completely honest...maybe not as good as Miss France!
All in all, like my first day in organic lab. I don't know what I'm doing, but I'm getting the lay of the land. Starting out at the bottom. And I think I appreciate better now the huge effort - both as art and science - that must go into creating a beauty like Jasmin de Nuit. Perfumery ain't for wimps, amigos.