Code of Conduct
Page 9 of 19 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 ... LastLast
Results 241 to 270 of 543
  1. #241

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    just a quick note to say that i am still in. i just want to wait until i get the first package to see how everything is done properly.
    LIB, maybe you can send me the mail-adress of your supplier? as i do not have any vials.

    today i mixed quite a nice orange accord with
    orangia - 250
    Phenyl ethyl Alcohol - 150
    Ethyline Brassilate - 50
    Florhydral - 100
    Linalool - 75
    orange oil - 75
    Petitgrain Oil - 75
    Geraniol - 50
    Terpineol alpha - 25

    next i will opt for a wood accord and see how it will fit with the orange accord.

  2. #242

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    scentophile, you're right about aldehyde C18 and lactones. That's the real way to achieve a coconut fragrance. I have never smelled coconut absolute, but my experiences with natural substances indicate that the synthetics will achieve the goal better than the actual substance.

    Quote Originally Posted by jillsy View Post
    What should fractionated coconut oil look like anyway? This stuff was white and kinda pearly.
    Liquid at room temperature. Pourable as opposed to a solid mass.


    Quote Originally Posted by Lady_in_Black View Post
    An update on Beastly Jasmine...it mellowed nicely and doesn't pack an animalic punch as it did at the start.
    Awesome. Good things come to those who wait. Your patience has paid off.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lady_in_Black View Post
    An update also on my swap package....I fear I won't be able to send it away before the end of August - tried a new sample vial supplier based in Germany and the package went MIA.
    As you had warned me, this postal nightmare happens repeatedly to you. If I were you, I would avoid sending your palette out as a swap package at all. Please, don't risk losing everything. I can get samples of aromachemicals here in the U.S. easily. I would rather not be responsible for a terrible waste of your palette, believe me.

    Quote Originally Posted by tamora View Post
    today i mixed quite a nice orange accord ...next i will opt for a wood accord and see how it will fit with the orange accord.
    Ooo! Try opoponax.
    Or what woods do you have?

  3. #243

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    LIB, thank you for your list of suppliers!

    purplebird, this is my list of woods:
    Black Agar
    Butyl cyclohexyl acetate (vertenex)
    Cedramber
    Cedrol
    Coumarin
    Dihydro Ionone Beta
    Ebanol
    Iso E Super
    Kephalis
    Kohinool
    Methyl cedryl ketone Vertofix aka Vertofix Coeur
    Sandalore
    Sandalwood from Mysore (eo): i actually bought this is in mysore in india. this is such a warm sweet complex symphonious rich scent. after smelling all the synthetics of woods: in this case i just have to state you can´t beat nature.

  4. #244

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    tamora, you will have quite a few options.
    An orange accord is one of my favorite in perfumery. It goes with so many things. Three that come to mind are:
    orange + patchouli + amber or vanilla
    orange + jasmine + sandalwood (or Javanol)
    orange + rose + musk + agarwood

    Besides that list, I don't know what else to suggest because I haven't tried any other of the woods you have.

    Keep ahold of your Mysore Sandalwood because you won't see any of that around for 50 years. India has a restriction on exporting it. I believe that they are allowed to use it in their own, domestically manufactured perfumes, but not to sell the raw material until the next crop of trees matures. In the meantime, Javanol is pretty darned good for a synthetic. It's nowhere near real Mysore sandalwood, but it's surprisingly better than some of the other, harsh-smelling natural varieties of sandalwood out there.

    My good news:
    I have received whisperlingleaves' swap package, and I am so excited.
    This is my first in-depth experience with synthetics. I had about a dozen of my own, but most were mainly accords (like Javalore sandalwood, rose, Nectaryl peach, musk, civit, and castoreum). The palette I have just recieved includes the basic the building blocks of perfume from PerfumersApprentice.com .

    Thank you, whisperingleaves. I will set aside some time soon to sniff, play, and learn.

    More to come (much more) later...
    Last edited by purplebird7; 7th August 2008 at 10:25 PM.

  5. #245
    Moderator

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    13,379
    Blog Entries
    37

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    I just got Asha's package from whisperingleaves. Wow! What a great collection of natural oils! This is going to be very fun. Jillsy's are on the way, too.

    Sorry to hear that about mysore, but some conservation is in order - hope it works out.
    * * * *

  6. #246
    Moderator

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    13,379
    Blog Entries
    37

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    I've got an interesting question for people.

    I can spot a fougère a mile away, but I wouldn't be able to tell a chypre from a chimera. So my question is this - what would be a formulation for an absolute minimalist chypre? I would like to smell the core essence of chypre - no frills, no nothin' else. Any suggestion as to what handful of ingredients in what ratio would be appreciated. I think now is the perfect time to try this out and get a handle on what chypres are!
    * * * *

  7. #247
    Asha's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    5,425

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    Bergamot, Labdanum and Oakmoss are the 3 components according to the Guide (from the Mitsouko page, the "reference chypre").

    Turin describes it as citrus-resinous, sweet-amber-resinous and bitter-resinous (based on the 3 ingredients).

  8. #248

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    Here is the information which I hold to be true:

    Bergamot + Oakmoss + Patchouli + Labdanum = Old Chypre Base
    Characteristics: wet/dry, sweet/salty/sour/bitter
    Options for sub-genres:
    + Florals (some type is always added regardless of the sub-genre)
    + Galbanum or Herbs for Green Chypre
    + Fruit (traditionally peach or plum) for Fruity Chypre
    + Leather or Woods for Dry Chypre

    Fruits + Florals + Patchouli + Woods (pepper, orris, oud, rosewood, cedar, etc.) + Vetiver (usually) + Musk = Pink Chypre
    Characteristics: sour/sweet/earthy
    I call these "New Chypres" because I don't understand the "pink" designation, but I still don't consider them to be in the same genre as the Old Chypres.

    I made a rose chypre out of the Old Chypre Base + damascena rose, all naturals, and it smelled quite pleasant.

  9. #249

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    redneck p, what a great idea to introduce the chypre theme here. and thank you, purplebird, for your posting of the different kind of chypres.

    that solved the question for me how to proceed with my orange flower accord: of course, how could i not think of it before! chypre it is! i think i am going to use for my chypre viennoise:

    first my orange flower accord, adding:
    bergamotte, clary sage, citral, benzyl acetate and lavender for top notes. i might even try Methyl salicylate here, because this seems to have been used in the formula for mitsouko, although i find the smell repulsive, the methyl i mean not the mitsouko! we´ll see...

    then: rose, viridine, ylang ylang, clove, ionone beta, patchouli, Methyl cedryl ketone

    and finally: civet, oakmoss, castoreum and galaxolide.

    sadly, í have not got any labdanum, although i have waded through fields of cistus incanus when i was on my dalmatian island. i just have to do the chypre without labdanum. i´ll let you know how it worked out...
    Last edited by tamora; 9th August 2008 at 07:50 AM.

  10. #250

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    Quote Originally Posted by tamora View Post
    ...that solved the question for me how to proceed with my orange flower accord:... i think i am going to use for my chypre viennoise
    And that is a lovely name.

    Your ingredients sound like a good mix with orange blossom, especially the clary sage (which is used in Miss Dior) and the clove and castoreum (which are in Paloma Picasso).

    When using a lot of orange blossom (which is already intensely sweet) maybe the labdanum would have been too sweet anyway. Probably the musk is a better base. You could always add some vanilla if you want.

  11. #251

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    Surprise! Posting from sunny, hot and dry Egypt and reading tamora's experiments and your comments with interest!

    I am already actively seeking naturals over here...found a lovely, lovely jasmine and two interesting sandalwoods, one drier and the other sweeter (besides heaps of dupes which don't interest me...well, maybe a dupe of Opium which is heavier on carnation than the original). The only thing that irks me is that they are oils, although highly concentrated. I'll try to convince the supplier that I want something undiluted.
    I also asked him if he had any oud available...and he said: "No, I don't but come back the day after tomorrow and maybe I'll have something for you." Ha, who knows what he will unearth
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  12. #252

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    Quote Originally Posted by Lady_in_Black View Post
    I am already actively seeking naturals over here...found a lovely, lovely jasmine
    LIB, how marvellous to be just in the right place to buy all these goodies! Egyptians were one of the first ancient cultures that adored fragrance. the jasmine from egypt is considered to be very good! also i wish you luck for the oudh!!! (just in case you have still place in your luggage i would gladly buy from you any amounts of oils you can spare.)

  13. #253

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    LIB you lucky girl. I'm so jealous. You get to go to the perfume bazaar!
    Good luck! I probably wouldn't be able to tell which were good and which were fakes.
    Are they still selling Opium dupes? My parents bought me some in th 1970s--dark, oily stuff that smelled almost like the real thing, but not quite as balanced or good.
    And yes, the Egyptian Jasmine Grandiflora is the best jasmine I have ever smelled, so complex that it is a perfume all by itself.
    I can't wait to hear what you come back with!
    Do tell!

  14. #254

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    my chypre viennoise is finished, that is to say: version one. wow, this was a great weekend! i overcame all obstacles like household chores, guests, managed to dilute this rather sticky oakmoss absolute, had a plan like mixing first the accords, trying to improve them, had an excel sheet ready adjusting the grams and drops, and finally, finally mixing all the accords together.

    YESSSSS, it is a chypre allright and i am really, really pleased with it. anyone interested, i will gladly put it into my swap package.

    and this is what went into the juice:

    citrus accord:
    my orange flower accord (as described in this thread)
    bergamotte

    floral accord:
    Benzyl Acetate
    Ylang Ylang
    Rose
    Tuberose
    hydroxy citronellal
    geranium

    animalic accord:
    patchouli
    oakmoss
    civet
    Castoreum
    Tolu Balsam
    citronellol

    musk accord:
    Exaltolide
    Animalid
    Dihydro Ionone Beta
    Galaxolide


    for version one i left out the clove and the clary sage, not wanting to spoil anything. also maybe i was a bit too cautious on the oakmoss absolute having read about the allergenic reactions it may cause. anyway, i will take it from there and work on it!

    thank you all for the inspiration and ideas you gave me with this project!!!

  15. #255

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    How exciting, tamora!Yes, I would love to smell your new fragrance.
    I included sampes of mine in my package, which is going around. They were not "aged" properly and might not smell the same as when I made them, but at least you'll get the general idea.
    I tried to get the people on the Natural Perfumery Forum to tell me what percentage of oakmoss absolute they would use in perfume for their own personal use, not for sale to the public, but nobody would answer me. It was as though I broached a taboo subject, and everyone was worried that the IFRA was looking over their shoulders, and nobody would say anything. Stony silence.
    And it's hard to figure out what the percentage is anyway. First you must put alcohol into a sticky mass of green syrup. Not enough alcohol yields something that cannot be sucked into a dropper. Too much alcohol results in not knowing what percentage of oakmoss you are using anymore.
    Officially, no more than 1% can be used. But the result of this, practically speaking, is that perfumes with oakmoss usually end up being no stronger than cologne or EDT concentration. In other words, if you don't want the other ingredients to overpower the aroma of the oakmoss (at 1%) you have to use less of everything, which makes it technically impossible to make chypre EDP or parfum.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 11th August 2008 at 02:55 PM.

  16. #256

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    what type of solvents are used to dilute musk ketone? i looked and search the forum for previous answers but i did'nt see any. could someone please tell me whst can be used and how? thank you in advance.

  17. #257

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    I have the powdered musk ketone and i find it difficult to dilute. so maybe i need another solovent??

  18. #258

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    Here is a link to the Summary Risk Assessment Report of musk ketone by the Chemical Substances Bureau in the Netherlands.

    http://ecb.jrc.it/DOCUMENTS/Existing...tonesum321.pdf

    On the table on page ten, you will see the surprising answer: water.

    Edited: I found the following infomation on 1000fragrances.blogspot:
    "Musk keton, Musk ambrette and Musk xylene, the most used musks when oils appeared on the market are diluted in DEP (diethylphtalate) or DPG (dipropyleneglycol), solvents with an oily touch and a nightmare today for the cosmetic industry."
    Apparently this is the way the professionals do it.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 30th August 2008 at 01:07 AM.

  19. #259

    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Grasse, France
    Posts
    498

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    For oakmoss, you should look into a synthetic called evernyl. It's a nice mossy replacement.

    Good luck ladies and gents.

    - Alex

  20. #260

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    Alex, I compared natural oakmoss to synthetic oakmoss (by Givaudan) which can be used up to 5% in the fragrance (as opposed to 1 % or less of the natural). The real oakmoss was much more complex and beautiful. The synthetic smelled like two or three aspects of the natural oakmoss put together, and they were not even my favorite aspects. There was no comparison.

    As with the case for fragrance, it is hard to describe in words. For an analogy, I offer this: if oakmoss smells like fresh, hot popcorn with salt and butter, synthetic oakmoss smells like cold, plain popcorn.

    I hold no prejudice against synthetics; in fact, I think they smell more natural and lifelike than many naturals. That is one lesson I learned from this experiment. I was hoping that the oakmoss substitute would be an exact replica, so that my darling old-school Chypres could be reformulated without much change in aroma. Regretfully, this is not true. I wish it were better. One percent of the real thing will beat 5% of the substitute any day.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 14th August 2008 at 02:13 PM.

  21. #261

    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Grasse, France
    Posts
    498

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    I agree completely. But tell it to IFRA . I guess it depends what you are doing. If you are making a fragrance for yourself, that's fine. Use as much oak moss as you can.

    The natural is almost, always better than the synthetic replacement.

    - Alex

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    Alex, I compared natural oakmoss to synthetic oakmoss (by Givaudan) which can be used up to 5% in the fragrance (as opposed to 1 % or less of the natural). The real oakmoss was much more complex and beautiful. The synthetic smelled like two or three aspects of the natural oakmoss put together, and they were not even my favorite aspects. There was no comparison.

    As with the case for fragrance, it is hard to describe in words. For an analogy, I offer this: if oakmoss smells like fresh, hot popcorn with salt and butter, synthetic oakmoss smells like cold, plain popcorn.

    I hold no prejudice against synthetics; in fact, I think they smell more natural and lifelike than many naturals. That is one lesson I learned from this experiment. I was hoping that the oakmoss substitute would be an exact replica, so that my darling old-school Chypres could be reformulated without much change in aroma. Regretfully, this is not true. I wish it were better. One percent of the real thing will beat 5% of the substitute any day.

  22. #262

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    Quote Originally Posted by scentophile View Post
    If you are making a fragrance for yourself, that's fine. Use as much oak moss as you can.
    That is the benefit of being able to make one's own fragrances.
    Please tell me, what is the maximum percentage that you would you use and feel "safe" about it?

  23. #263

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    Today, I am going to tackle the synthetic treasure chest of whisperingleave's swap box.
    I'm sorry it has taken me 11 days to get around to doing it, but I wanted to make sure it has the time it deserves to concentrate and write notes about it.
    So...stay tuned. More to follow....

  24. #264

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    please ban me from this thread! i do not know anything about notes!!!!!!

    at least so it seems after i had the dreadful idea to make an olfactory test, asking my husband to prepare me 5 samples on scent strips from my synthetics department.

    Just guess, how many i got right, NOOOO, not zero! only one, beautiful cedramber, which from now on has a special place in my heart. the other results were.... okay, let´s talk about something else.

    but still, it is rather intriguing to compare the notes from your original description meaning when you know which note that is and your blind test. although i got so many wrong the description from the blind test is interesting on its own.

    who wants to try it out, too? be brave!

  25. #265

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    You sure are brave, tamora! I am going to try myself at it as soon as I get back home . I suspect it is the ONLY way to really get acquainted with a note. Did you read the TWolf-inspired threads about our blind sniffing experiments? Quite a few surprises there

    So my Egyptian store owner brought me his oud
    As was easily imaginable, it isn't pure oud, but an oud-based perfume oil. It is less on the medicinal side and more on the soapy side, but pleasant nonetheless. Other notes I smell are musk, sandalwood and maybe a pinch of bergamot in the opening. Extremely tenacious, it lasts through a whole day of suntan lotion and bathing

    I also bought jasmine oil in two concentrations (lovely!) and sandalwood oil (what puzzled me is that he said it comes from the Egyptian "akassia" tree and not from sandal ).

    As a gift with purchase, so to say, he added also some Opium dupe oil because he understood I quite liked it - yes purplebird, they still sell it and I am going to send you some

    Conclusion: my nose isn't sophisticated enough to understand if he sold me the usual tourist cr*p or the real things. I must say that it took him some days to procure the oud based oil and the stronger jasmine oil, so maybe these two are a little above standard. However, the important thing is I like what I got.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  26. #266

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    Quote Originally Posted by Lady_in_Black View Post
    You sure are brave, tamora! I am going to try myself at it as soon as I get back home . I suspect it is the ONLY way to really get acquainted with a note. Did you read the TWolf-inspired threads about our blind sniffing experiments?
    LIB, i can not find this thread you mentioned. please assist. love to hear about your blind tests.

  27. #267

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    LIB, you're having a marvellous time! I would be going crazy trying to decide which vendor to buy which perfume from. Too::::many:::::choices:::::

    tamora, don't be so hard on yourself. I still fail at it, too. You would have to work with these substances routinely to get them embedded in your memory.

    Here are the links to the 3x3 Blind Sniff game which we played in summer of 2007. The original thread got split into the sub-categories of fragrances. (This game was the brainchild of Twolf, and we had trememdous fun.) What happened was this: One person hosted each round of the game. This person send three vials of mystery fragrances (from a single genre) to three different people (hence the 3x3 name). The sniffers went online and tried to guess the names of the fragrances. The sender posted if anyone guessed any notes correctly and went on to give hints if necessary. Our success rate was 100% when given enough time and hints. Isn't that fabulous? I mean, we could say, "Is it lily?" and get a yes or no answer until we pegged the right note.

    Light 'N' White fragrances:
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=198338

    Green fragrances
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=199804

    Rose fragrances:
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=200248

    Gourmand fragrances:
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=200458

    Oriental fragrances (LIB hosted this one):
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=199014

    Chypre fragrances (I hosted this one):
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=199804
    Last edited by purplebird7; 19th August 2008 at 08:49 PM.

  28. #268

    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Grasse, France
    Posts
    498

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    That is the benefit of being able to make one's own fragrances.
    Please tell me, what is the maximum percentage that you would you use and feel "safe" about it?
    Purplebird,

    I'm not going to give you the answer because there is no limit to perfumery... well the limit being 1000 grams of oakmoss out of 1000. If you wanted to create a fragrance around oakmoss, you would use a lot. But, okay, realistically, for me, not even several grams in 1000.

    - Alex
    Last edited by scentophile; 19th August 2008 at 09:11 PM.

  29. #269
    Moderator

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    13,379
    Blog Entries
    37

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!



    MAIL CALL!

    Hooray! I now have two packages in my hands - Asha's (via whisperingleaves) and jillsy's (via Purplebird). Asha's package is HUGE and filled with all kinds of wonderful vials, so it's getting set aside for the moment while I look at jillsy's package, which is a bit more manageable and better for my first time out.

    Alas, my assistant, Igor, is no longer working for me. Shortly after our recent bat infestation, he gave notice, saying he wished to work for a new mad scientist named Doctor Alucard. So be it. Meet my new assistant, K.U. Jayhawk! He has a thing for benzoin - in this case, a plastic package of Benzoin Sumatra from jillsy. The solid, rock-like crystals have a faint but pleasant odor, and we look forward to doing all sorts of fragrant things with them.

    It's a good thing that K.U. is hung up on benzoin, so he'll leave me alone with the other goodies. Check them out! In order, counterclockwise from the upper left:

    (1) Yatagan - a gift sample from Purplebird (a 5* fragrance for Luca Turin)
    (2) Coconut Fragrance Oil
    (3) Petitgrain Essential Oil
    (4) Cedarwood Fragrance Oil
    (5) Vanilla Fragrance Oil
    (6) Ylang-Ylang Fragrance Oil
    (7) Violet Fragrance Oil
    (8) Coffee Fragrance Oil
    (9) Czech & Speake 88 - also a gift sample from Purplebird ("a cult favorite rose scent")

    Thus, we begin our sniffarama. K.U.! Fetch me that...

    Yatagan - How can one pass up something that has a five-star review with the words "recoiling at the smell"? Seriously - why did P-bird (or some other poor soul) double-seal this vial with black plastic electrician's tape? Well, let's open 'er up... WHOA! EGADS! OMG - MY FINGERS! What horrible, evil, wonderful, amazing, breathtaking alien acid is this stuff???!!! Holy Mackerel! Take my Obsession For Men and pour it down the sink. We have to make room in our evil laboratory for the new Emperor of the Orient! Purplebird - I owe you!!! Waiter - I'm having a bottle of this! Whatever. If you have to ask how much it is, you haven't really smelled it. Just put it on the tab!

    Well, that got off to a heck of a start. How do you follow that stuff? I think I'm just going to smell the other fragrance sample and go to bed. My nose is shot for the day. I'll do the oils tomorrow. But for now, let's check out...

    Czech and Speake No. 88 - I can see how one could like this. Even less rosy than my other male rose scents (The Different Company and Neil Morris), this one has a dark, boozy thing, kind of like Bois d'Iris, only with rose. No, this is good stuff, too. Not earth-shattering, but good. I can smell the ionones. I think this gets worn to work tomorrow.

    So there - that's how you burn out on samples before you even get to the main attractions. Well - we'll do the fragrant oils and benzoin tomorrow. Stay tuned!!! [No, K.U., you cannot eat the benzoin. I don't care if it looks like gravel - or if your gizzard is empty. Put it down - now... There. Good birdie. Here - have some Yatagan...]
    * * * *

  30. #270

    Default Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    thank you, purplebird! the blind sniff tests are fun to read, obviously you can learn a lot from this. just finiished the chypre and looking forward to the others.

Page 9 of 19 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000