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  1. #1

    Default Which designer fragrances are comparable to niche?

    For me Lalique Pour Homme Equus. Mr. Roucel created something worthy of a Creed label, with beautiful rosemary/cedar dominated oriental.
    Which designer fragrance do you think is too good, for its own good?
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 4th June 2010 at 11:44 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    I take issue with "good enough" and substitute "displaying qualities of" since I find a typical niche perfume to be quirky (not always in a good way) and appealing to a narrow range, but not afraid to experiment.

    So juice that does not pander to a wide audience, is a bit quirky, and somewhat experimental:

    New mainstreams:
    Thierry Mugler: Angel, Alien, A*Men, B*Men (gourmande and extreme - but an example where an experiment changed a whole market segment!)
    Gucci: pour Homme (incense)
    Caron: L'Anarchiste
    YSL: Kouros, M7

    Classics, that are hard to wear:
    Robert Piguet: Fracas (heck Malle and Lutens copy the basic idea!)
    Guerlain: Jicky (Tons o' Civet)
    Chanel No 5 (that slug of aldehyde makes it hard to wear for many but they still do!)
    Caron Yatagan

    The interesting part, though, is when a maninstream house comes up with something somewhat experimental, and it works, it changes the market, and even niche houses spend some time following the popularity, though they are a bit more experimental!
    Last edited by Bromo33333; 13th May 2008 at 12:59 AM.
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  3. #3

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bromo33333 View Post
    I take issue with "good enough" and substitute "displaying qualities of" since I find a typical niche perfume to be quirky (not always in a good way) and appealing to a narrow range, but not afraid to experiment.

    So juice that does not pander to a wide audience, is a bit quirky, and somewhat experimental:

    New mainstreams:
    Thierry Mugler: Angel, Alien, A*Men, B*Men (gourmande and extreme - but an example where an experiment changed a whole market segment!)
    Gucci: pour Homme (incense)
    Caron: L'Anarchiste
    YSL: Kouros, M7

    Classics, that are hard to wear:
    Robert Piguet: Fracas (heck Malle and Lutens copy the basic idea!)
    Guerlain: Jicky (Tons o' Civet)
    Chanel No 5 (that slug of aldehyde makes it hard to wear for many but they still do!)
    Caron Yatagan

    The interesting part, though, is when a maninstream house comes up with something somewhat experimental, and it works, it changes the market, and even niche houses spend some time following the popularity, though they are a bit more experimental!
    Very well thought out reply. Kudos to you sir!

    Let me add:

    Giorgio for Men (1984) (feels great to be able to say that one again!)
    Jaipur Homme
    Envy
    Antaeus
    Habit Rouge
    Equipage
    Zino
    Aramis 900
    JHL
    Givenchy Gentleman
    Obsession for Men
    Bogart Pour Homme
    Devin
    Eau Sauvage
    Krizia uomo
    Last edited by TwoRoads; 13th May 2008 at 01:43 AM.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  4. #4

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    I'll answer this question with another question.
    Which niche fragrances could pass as designer fragrances?
    To answer the original question, one that comes to mind is Hypnose Pour Homme by Lancome. Drakkar is one that I really think fits in this category. Classic Armani along with Code for Men are very nice. Givenchy's Pi and Prada for Men. Jean Paul Gaultier Pour Homme and JPG2 are there for me also. Jaipur and Boucheron Pour Homme make the list also. I also agree with those that have been mentioned.
    Gary

  5. #5

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bromo33333 View Post
    I take issue with "good enough" and substitute "displaying qualities of" since I find a typical niche perfume to be quirky (not always in a good way) and appealing to a narrow range, but not afraid to experiment.
    Fair enough.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    I will also commend Bromo on his picks. Those are some great ones though. I would like to add Dior Homme.

  7. #7
    Mudassir's Avatar
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    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Of the recent launches, Victor & Rolf Antidote (or maybe it is "niche" since its not that widely available), Narciso Rodriguez for men and Dior Homme Intense.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    I've been meaning to get to that sample of Lalique Pour Homme Equus that I have - thanks for the reminder Ruggles.

    Two designer fragrances that 'display qualities' of niche houses are: Black Orchid by Tom Ford and Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Estee Lauder
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    I would add to what has already been mentioned:

    Chanel Egoiste
    YSL Rive Gauche pour Homme
    YSL Opium (women's version)
    Michael for Men
    Rochas Lui
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  10. #10

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    The unspoken assumption of your question is that niche fragrances by their very nature are superior to designer fragrances. I'm sorry but I can't agree with that blanket assertion.

    Designer fragrances tend to cater to the masses, putting out a product which can be mass produced at consistent levels of quality and consistency at prices that people are willing to pay.

    Niche fragrances can't compete head on with the designer fragrances so they have to compete in other areas. Some, compete by using all natural ingredients, others compete with innovation and creativity, some with custom service and some get by purely on snob appeal.

    The bottom line is that Designer Fragrance houses put out a consistent high quality product with a relatively narrow dynamic range from the worst to the best where as niche fragrance have a much broader range, from truly bad to exceptionally good and everything in between.

    I also have a hard time considering the Creed line, a niche fragrances. I see Creed as a higher end design house. Really, when you have so much effort going into producing counterfeits of your products you have move beyond being a niche company.
    In all matters of opinion, our adversaries are insane - Oscar Wilde

  11. #11

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    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Lalique's are as lucid as the glass they are known for.
    After an hour of Equus I forget what I am wearing - if anything.
    Guerlain, Caron, Lancôme, Lauder - designers of what

    Quote Originally Posted by oolong View Post
    Designer fragrances tend to cater to the masses, putting out a product which can be mass produced at consistent levels of quality and consistency at prices that people are willing to pay.
    A growing number of fragrances cater to the masses, but by far not all.Think of Comme des Garcons und Elterhaus !
    Last edited by narcus; 13th May 2008 at 02:52 AM.
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  12. #12

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Quote Originally Posted by oolong View Post
    The unspoken assumption of your question is that niche fragrances by their very nature are superior to designer fragrances. I'm sorry but I can't agree with that blanket assertion.
    I also have a hard time considering the Creed line, a niche fragrances. I see Creed as a higher end design house.
    I understand your point. My view of niche fragrances is that they don't play to the biggest audience. It isn't a question of "superior nature" it's a question of "quirkiness." Please, no offense was intended.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Quote Originally Posted by oolong View Post
    Designer fragrances tend to cater to the masses, putting out a product which can be mass produced at consistent levels of quality and consistency at prices that people are willing to pay.
    This idea sounds dreadful. After all, as the saying goes, "the masses are revolting."

  14. #14

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    This idea sounds dreadful. After all, as the saying goes, "the masses are revolting."

    Ultimately there are three types of people in this world, conformist who conform to the status quo, rebels who are just as much slaves to the status quo as the conformist but in a contrary way and people who make their own choices. I recommend option #3.
    In all matters of opinion, our adversaries are insane - Oscar Wilde

  15. #15

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Quote Originally Posted by oolong View Post
    Ultimately there are three types of people in this world, conformist who conform to the status quo, rebels who are just as much slaves to the status quo as the conformist but in a contrary way and people who make their own choices. I recommend option #3.
    You and me both, brother.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    I think Bulgari Black fits the bill. Innovative, bold and coming completely left of the field, very much in the spirit of the niche tradition but somehow ended up in a designer house.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Versace The Dreamer

    Alain Delon Iquitos

    Last edited by knightowl; 13th May 2008 at 04:20 AM.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    Lalique's are as lucid as the glass they are known for.
    After an hour of Equus I forget what I am wearing - if anything.
    Guerlain, Caron, Lancôme, Lauder - designers of what
    Yeah, labels are ridiculous, but how else can we communicate here?

  19. #19

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Just wanted you to know Rouce didn't create Equus. His was Lalique's Lion.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Quote Originally Posted by nattygold View Post
    Just wanted you to know Rouce didn't create Equus. His was Lalique's Lion.
    Sorry, I did a type-oh. Thanks, for the correction - I have and wear the lion, it must be my ADD kicking in.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Well, I'll play along with what I think the spirit of the original question is, and state:

    Antidote by Viktor and Rolf
    Prada Amber pour homme
    Salvador Dali pou homme
    L'Anarchiste
    Grey Flannel
    Kingdom
    Fleur Du Male
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Emilie (Bevierre) Coppermann is the nose behind Lalique pour Homme Equus, according to parfyym.pri.ee.

    I have trouble deciding which houses are designer and which are niche. I think "designer" means couture or fashion houses that also commission scents. "Niche" means specialized, low production, higher quality(?) houses. Not sure about that last. What is Hermès? Designer? Probably, but they specialize in leather goods rather than clothes, don't they? I think most of their stuff is pretty good, some of it even classic. Chanel is a designer house, according to my definition, and some really classic scents, both men's and women's, have come out of there; certainly not cheap, and maybe not mass-market either.

    Some niche houses are pretty spotty in terms of quality and suffer from other types of problems. A lot of people think that L'Artisan scents are pretty weak in longevity, even though some are very nice as far as quality goes, for example. The same is often said of Diptyque, another place commonly counted as "niche."

    I think the key to answering this question for me is to look at the noses behind the scents. Some designer stuff has come from really great noses: Daltroff, Ernest Beaux, you can name them all, I bet. The scents that come from great noses, whether done for designer houses or for niche houses, or for any other category of firm you care to name or invent, are the great ones. I've got personal favorites, which I've named before, so I won't go over the list again right now...

    Good questions like this sharpen people's analytical skills I think. It's great to mull them over and see all the answers a crowd like Basenoters can produce.
    Last edited by JaimeB; 13th May 2008 at 05:22 AM.
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  23. #23

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    I'll also go for the 'quirky' definition (i.e. scents that are sufficiently unique as not to be aiming for the lowest common demoninator). I feel any of these coud be launched under niche labels and be hailed as masterpieces. They could also be sold for double or even quadruple their high street store prices:

    Lalique Encre Noire (simply superb, unique, dark)
    Lalique Equus (incredible use of cedar)
    Dior Fahrenheit (petrol notes - how could you go wrong?)
    Dior Fahrenheit Summer (a petrol station on the Costa del Sol in August)
    YSL M7 (dark and syrupy)
    YSL M7 Fresh (stand-alone scent, so close to Ormonde Jayne Man)
    YSL Kouros (the masterpiece)
    YSL Kouros Fraicher (quirky variation of masterpiece)
    YSL Pour Homme Haute Concentree (incredibly powerful citrus summer scent)
    La Perla Grigioperla (one of the finest green scents)
    La Perla Grigioperla Hedo (the green brother of the Laliques)
    Chanel Antaeus (powdery leather, another masterpiece)
    Narciso Rodriguez For Him (wet cement, rotting vegetation, a modern classic)
    Caron l'Anarchiste (simply nothing like it!)
    Caron Yatagan (ditto)
    Donna Karan Black Cashmere (now discontinued North African-style classic)
    Escada Pour Homme (boozy, golden)
    Michael for Men by Michael Kors (even boozier, even more golden)
    Ungaro III (dark, rich gothic - yet mannerly too)
    Fendi Uomo (brown, rich, cheeky and quirky)
    Nicole Farhi Man (transluscent and spicy summery classic)
    Halston I-12 (another top green scent)
    Versace Black Jeans (superb black tea scent, could be a l'Artisan standard)
    Versace Green Jeans (OK, maybe stretching here, but a charming piney green scent, could be a CdG)

  24. #24

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    I agree that the question is flawed - there are a hell of a lot of "niche" fragrances which are just plain awful, take L'Artisan Perfumeur's Fou D'Absinthe for example, it's like a chemical accident, absolutely disgusting, yet lauded by some for being daring and innovative. Why would someone choose to smell like an industrial strength disinfectant? And don't even get me started on Penhaligon's Hammam...

    I think there other names from the mainstream which could be considered niche if they were in a different bottle and under another name - Escada's Magnetism for example, dreadful name, but fabulous juice.

  25. #25
    Dimitrios's Avatar
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    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Carven Homme
    Lagerfeld
    Arpege PH
    to mention a few

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  26. #26

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    - Nobody mentions Terre d'Hermes?
    - Kouros of course. Not because it's "good enough" to be niche (and not to imply that niche is better than designer fragrances), but because it's daring enough. Some other YSL's come to mind too.
    - I don't know where to put Guerlain, but certainly a lot of Guerlain fragrances are daring enough.
    - A*Men.
    - Dior Homme.
    These are the ones on my mind now.
    Looking for a sample of Gucci Envy Me.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    For me Lalique Pour Homme Equus. Mr. Roucel created something worthy of a Creed label, with beautiful rosemary/cedar dominated oriental.
    Which designer fragrance do you think is too good, for its own good?
    I take issue with how you've phrased your question and then used Creed as the yardstick of niche.

    It could just as easily validly have been written as,
    "Which designer fragrances are bad enough to be niche (Creed and MPG excepted)."
    Renato

  28. #28

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    IMHO...

    A*Men
    Rochas LUI
    Dior Higher
    Baldessarini

  29. #29

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Quote Originally Posted by Renato View Post
    I take issue with how you've phrased your question and then used Creed as the yardstick of niche.

    It could just as easily validly have been written as,
    "Which designer fragrances are bad enough to be niche (Creed and MPG excepted)."
    Renato
    You can substitute any niche house for Creed, it was just used as an example of a niche house. Creed is not my favorite house, by far. However, I do feel that Lalique men's fragrance share a common thread with those of Creed. Sorry, if my simple, yet loaded, question offend you.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Which designer fragrances are good enough to be niche?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    For me Lalique Pour Homme Equus. Mr. Roucel created something worthy of a Creed label, with beautiful rosemary/cedar dominated oriental.
    Which designer fragrance do you think is too good, for its own good?
    I'm relieved that my blind buy of LPHE about a month ago was not in vain. It sounded, from some of the reviews, like something I've been on the look-out for.

    I think I would classify much of what comes from the house of Hermès as niche-like - particularly Terre D'Hermes. The first time I tested it on my wrist, I associated to L'Artisan's Timbuktu somehow. Hermès, as I understand it, has been around quite awhile but seems to have been moving in a "niche" direction. They don't even sell Hermès here in Norway anymore! That's a dead give-away that its going "niche"!

    Ohh, excuse me Mostapha, I apparently hopped over some of the posts!
    Last edited by Delmar; 13th May 2008 at 01:26 PM.

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