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  1. #1

    Smile Grown up Gourmand?

    I recently asked for recommendations for a grown-up vanilla and got some very good replies (thanks!), so I'm going to ask for suggestions for something slightly different...a grown-up gourmand. Something complex, layered, with a full blooded development a la a classic Guerlain, but in the gourmand category. The Camptoir Sud Pacifics of the world are just too unidimensional and juvenile on me. For example, I love Profumum Confetto, Satellite Ipanema, and Profumi di Pantelleria Jailia to name a few (I also love the notes in Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale, though on my skin it does not work for some reason). Anyway, just wondering what your favorite complex gourmands are..??

  2. #2

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Ya know, I really like the Hanae Mori HM (men's) on me. It's nowhere near as sweet as a lot of the feminine gourmands. Give it a whirl.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Iris Ganache (Guerlain)

  4. #4

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    I like L'Artisan's Saffran Troublant, and I also think Luten's Un Bois Vanille (while not officially 'gourmand') may please you. Please be sure to sample both, as they are somewhat similar.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Spiritueuse Double Vanille... some people get basic vanilla, while I get something complex that shifts all day long between different combinations of straight vanilla extract, booze, tobacco, and leather.

  6. #6
    Basenotes Institution
    mikeperez23's Avatar
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    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Quote Originally Posted by tang View Post
    Spiritueuse Double Vanille... some people get basic vanilla, while I get something complex that shifts all day long between different combinations of straight vanilla extract, booze, tobacco, and leather.
    I agree - SDV is fantastic.

    A more affordable grown up gourmand: Black Orchid by Tom Ford
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

  7. #7

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Mike, never would I have thought that Black Orchid would fall in the gourmand category
    But then, the definition of "gourmand" is one of the hardest, because it is very different from person to person.

    I would recommend you try Ambre Narguilé from the Hermessences series. A classy, grown-up gourmand amber
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  8. #8

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Pink Sugar, don't get fooled by the cotton candy top notes, the drydown is definitely on the trad. and grown-up side,

    Then there's Sonia Rykiel "red sweater" and of course Angel
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Hermes Elixir des Merveilles

    Notes of chocolate-covered candied orange peel, caramel, vanilla biscuit (vanilla sugar, tonka bean), creamy milk, sandalwood, incense, resins, ambergris, Peru balsam and balsam of Siam, oak, patchouli and cedar.
    Last edited by petruccijc; 15th May 2008 at 01:43 PM.
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  10. #10

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    I think Shalimar is sort of gourmand...at least in the higher concentrations.

    EDIT: I forgot to mention Chanel Bois de Iles--the gingerbread is almost edible
    Last edited by Asha; 15th May 2008 at 02:41 PM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    My favorite gourmands are sweet and spicy, or dessert-like...

    Lolita Lempicka - Slightly sinister magic forest candyland.
    Tom Ford Black Orchid - I agree with Mike, I find this truly gourmand (truffle, coconut, etc.).
    Kenzo Flower Le Parfum - This spicy oriental scent just blew me away, almond makes it gourmand to me.
    Angel - a bit of a cliche by now maybe...but still brilliant, and so many variations of it.
    Jicky - my latest big, big love, it's quite dessert like lemon/vanilla; simple yet comlex. Pure genius.
    Thierry Mugler Innocent - another dessert scent, praline/caramel deliciousness.
    Bond No. 9 Chinatown - fruity/syrupy/spicy/floral/musky

  12. #12

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Tig, I know only orange and rose Sonia Rykiel sweater. Which one is red? Was it LE?

  13. #13

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Quote Originally Posted by Alicka61 View Post
    Tig, I know only orange and rose Sonia Rykiel sweater. Which one is red? Was it LE?
    The orange one is often referred to as the red sweater (the discontinued Eau de SR with liquorice note was the blue sweater).
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  14. #14

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    How about Aomassai, by Parfumerie Generale? I've only tried a sample, but I think it will be something to splurge on for next winter.

    Notes from Luckyscent:
    Caramel, toasted hazelnuts, licorice, bitter orange, spices, wenge wood, vetiver, balsam wood, incense, dried grasses, resins.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Quote Originally Posted by petruccijc View Post
    Hermes Elixir des Merveilles

    Notes of chocolate-covered candied orange peel, caramel, vanilla biscuit (vanilla sugar, tonka bean), creamy milk, sandalwood, incense, resins, ambergris, Peru balsam and balsam of Siam, oak, patchouli and cedar.
    Great suggestion, I totally agree! it's incredible. I would also suggest you to try Cartier Le baisier du dragon edt with its luscious amaretto note: a divine chypre-gourmand!
    Going niche, another good call is the more expensive Aomassai together with Musc Maori from Parfumerie Generale to which I also would add Lutens Borneo (patchouli and cocoa beans) and Mandarine-mandarin (orange marmelade).

  16. #16

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    How about A*Men Pure Coffee or its more expensive counterpart New Haarlem by Bond? I'm not a big gourmande fan, but coffee scents do it for me.

    Oh, both are very unisex btw, even if marketed for men.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    My new fave, Moss Breeches has bee's wax and vanilla. Yum!

  18. #18

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Guerlain INSOLENCE
    Guerlain Shalimar parfum
    Last edited by girlsodeadly; 20th May 2008 at 07:14 AM.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    I think Shalimar is sort of gourmand...at least in the higher concentrations.

    EDIT: I forgot to mention Chanel Bois de Iles--the gingerbread is almost edible
    Seconded!
    Funnily enough, Eau de Shalimar isn't too bad.

    I also find Serge Lutens Chergui is very complex vanilla smelling, though technically it is a hay scent ...
    ===
    “… [I] recall thinking that the computer would never advance much further than this. Call me naïve, but I seemed to have underestimated the universal desire to sit in a hard plastic chair and stare at a screen until your eyes cross.” ~ David Sedaris

  20. #20

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Great suggestions all..this was so fun, and now I have lots of samples to order, and frags to revisit! You all are awesome.

    Dewey eyed--I'll look for a sample of Hanae Mori HM today!

    seattlelight--I have a sample of Iris Ganache, and just recently (2 days ago) tried it...LOVE it.

    ubuandibeme--I'll have to try the L'Artisan. I have SL's Un Bois Vanille in a large decant and wear it often. Like toasted vanilla marshmallow powder. My kids love it on me, too!

    Tang and mikeperez I have tried Spirituese DV without any success. It just doesn't work on me. Smells great on my sister-in-law, however...weird how that works. And Mike, I have a thing against Tom Ford. I find many of his ads misogynistic, so I won't buy anything of his. My loss I guess, because some of his frags are really great.

    Lady in Black: Ambre Narguile is just yummy. I may invest in a full bottle Thanks for reminding me how great it is...haven't worn it for a while.

    Tigrushka..I'll definitely have to try the Rykiel. And I've been hindered from trying Pink Sugar because of the marketing which so obviously seems aims at the very young. Now I'll have to go to my local Sephora for a spritz and keep an open mind. Unfortunately, Angel has a very powerful BO accord on my skin...I'm talking 5 men on a fishing boat for two weeks BO. Oh well!

    Petruccijcc--yes yes yes, Elixir dex Merveilles is just awesome. Thanks for reminding me. Must buy STAT!

    Asha..I just put Bois des Iles in my cart at The Perfumed Court..thanks for the recommendation.

    Lilybelle: what a great list. Thank you! There are several fragrances on it I have not tried, but will!

    Tang: Aomassai is, if I recall, just yummy, and exactly what I mean by grownup gourmand. I have a sample from Lucky Scent, but I have not sniffed in a while. Time to revisit!

    Magnifiscent: Love the suggestions, several of which I have not tried. I thank you, and the Perfumed Court thanks you (credit card groaning now).

    So Fresh, girlsodeadly, and bromo33333, thank you for the suggestions! Samples will be ordered.

    Ruggles..never thought of Moss Breches as gourmand, but I will have to re-sniff my sample. Thanks.


    Again...thanks everyone. Being a newbie I really appreciate all the help I can get! Liz
    Last edited by lizzie_j; 15th May 2008 at 08:56 PM.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Flowerbomb and Nuits de Noho are two that have never let me down.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    There are two that never let me down also:

    Red Aoud by Montale

    Aomassi by Parfumarie Generale - Just bought a bottle for my Wife for Mother's Day. She loves it.
    Last edited by thebeck; 16th May 2008 at 12:40 AM. Reason: add verbage

  23. #23

    Smile Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    I third my newest frag, Hermes Elixir des Merveilles, and I secound Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon. Both are grown up, and not so obvious gourmands.
    Faves right now: Chanel No 19, Stella Rose Absolute, L´Heure Bleu, Elixir de Merveilles, Samsara.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Actually, I love Eau de Shalimar: it smells like lemon custard, and it's just delicious. I can't stop sniffing my wrists when I wear it.
    I also love Safran Troublant and the wonderful Ambre Narguile (candied nuts ). However, many of the so called "gourmand scents" are too sweet for me.
    Last edited by alba; 16th May 2008 at 11:17 AM. Reason: error

  25. #25

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh View Post
    How about A*Men Pure Coffee or its more expensive counterpart New Haarlem by Bond? I'm not a big gourmande fan, but coffee scents do it for me.

    Oh, both are very unisex btw, even if marketed for men.
    Oh, I do loooooove the coffee scented Angel! I wanted to buy it for my husband, but I know he won't wear it. Perhaps you're right - I'll just get some for myself!

  26. #26

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    I'd like to be another voice for Aomassi, it's the sort of dessert you have when you're dining with the grown-ups and have spent a great deal of money on the preceeding courses and booze. I'd also mention Mazzolari Lei, it's got a drier version of chocolate, more like the natural cocoa pod, and I've had a lot of compliments on it. Did anyone suggest Micallef's Note Vanillee? It's not all vanilla, it has citrus, vanilla, honey and a boozy undertone. I love all of these and I'm not a gourmand lover.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Quote Originally Posted by dreams&drafts View Post
    I'd like to be another voice for Aomassi, it's the sort of dessert you have when you're dining with the grown-ups and have spent a great deal of money on the preceeding courses and booze. I'd also mention Mazzolari Lei, it's got a drier version of chocolate, more like the natural cocoa pod, and I've had a lot of compliments on it. Did anyone suggest Micallef's Note Vanillee? It's not all vanilla, it has citrus, vanilla, honey and a boozy undertone. I love all of these and I'm not a gourmand lover.

    I'm glad you mentioned Note Vanillee. I think few have tried this one because in the USA you need to get samples from fourseasons. Simply puts Guerlains Spiriteuse Double Vanille to shame. Vanilla lovers really need to experience Note Vanille. It will spoil you for all others.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Surprised no one has mentioned Musc Ravageur? Cinnamon... mmm.

    Also, Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy is sweet; I think opinions may vary as to whether it's juvenile or not.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Hi! I too tried the Sud Pacifique fragrances and found them to be - I don't know - too simplistic? Have you tried Ayala Moriel's fragrances? I recently ordered several samples from her, and really enjoyed her Cabaret, which really does smell like the confection called Turkish delight - all rosewater-y and almond-y. Yummy, very interesting fragrance. She has three others that sound foody: Finjan, a "spiced Turkish coffee gourmand"; Guilt, with its "bouquet of choocolate and orange blossom"; and Immortelle l'Amour, that I think is supposed to smell like cinnamon pancakes with maple syrup (!)

    I intend to try them all, though not sure about the last one as I don't like the taste of maple syrup. Fun thread!

  30. #30

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Plus Que Jamais
    Shalimar extrait
    Angel
    Immortelle Amour from Ayala Moriel
    Vamp by Ava Luxe, kind of a sexy cotton candy
    Rahat Loukhoum by Keiko Mecheri
    Arabie by Serge Lutens
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  31. #31

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    Firstly I will advise you slighlty different. It's not typically categorized in the gourmand section, but there is a candied fruits top note that is mixed perfectly with patchouli and vetiver: it's Coco Mademoiselle edp. A similar but fruitier one is Liberté by Cacharel. Osmoz lists both in the chypre category, but they are borderline. However, you may like a true fruity chypre as Deci Delà by Nina Ricci, yummy with the raspberry and peach top notes.

    For something more obvious in the gourmand category: Hypnotic Poison, with its almond and tonka notes and Kenzo Amour with delicious rice and milk notes.

    At last, another perfume with a rich peachy-violet sillage: Trésor by Lancôme.

    The pyramids of these fragrances:

    Coco Mademoiselle edp:
    Top notes: Orange, Bergamot
    Middle notes: Rose, Jasmine
    Base notes: Patchouli, Vetiver

    Liberté:
    Top notes: Bergamot, Mandarin Orange
    Middle notes: Orange, Icing Sugar, Sun-drenched Flowers
    Base notes: Patchouli, Vanilla, Vetiver


    Deci Delà:
    Top notes: Peach, Apricot, Raspberry, Boronia
    Middle notes: Jasmine, Freesia, Azelnut, Orris
    Base notes: Patchouli, Vanilla, Sandal, Styrax


    Hypnotic Poison:
    Top notes:Coconut, Plum, Pimento, Apricot
    Middle notes: Rose, Lily of the valley, Sambac Jasmine, Tuberose
    Base notes: Sandal, Jacaranda wood, Vanilla


    Kenzo Amour:
    Top notes: Frangipani, Blossom
    Middle notes: Cherry Blossom, White Tea, Frankincense
    Base notes: Thanaka Wood, Rice, Vanilla


    Trésor:
    Top notes: Peach, Apricot, Pineapple, Bergamot
    Middle notes: Rose, Orris, Heliotrope, Jasmine
    Base notes: Sandal, Musk, Vanilla
    If you were to say to the grown-ups: “I saw a beautiful house made of rosy brick, with geraniums in the windows and doves on the roof,” they would not be able to get an idea of that house at all. You have have to say to them: “I saw a house that cost $20,000.” Then they would exclaim: “Oh, what a pretty house that is!”

    (extract from "The Little Prince" by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry)



    Think about it...

  32. #32

    Default Re: Grown up Gourmand?

    I'll add my recs:

    Theorema - tangelo, cream, spices
    Organza Indecence - vanilla, woods, spices, smells like wonderful spiced custard
    Nirmala - same vein as Nuits de Noho and Angel only more wearable to me
    Mira-bai - cassis and pralines
    Eau de Reglisse - citrus, ginger, licorice, vanilla
    Gourmandises - fruit rose jam and saffron

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