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  1. #31
    fly777's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras Notes & Info

    Do not go close to your wrist for sniffing. From a distance it smells not too bad for me.

  2. #32
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    Default Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    One of the reasons why I sample so many fragrances, is that ever so often I come upon a fragrance that smells like nothing I’ve ever smelled before. Even more rare are those moments where not only is the smell new, but the overall effect (diffusion, wearability, experience) of the fragrance is brand new also. This happened with Dans Tes Bras – the new scent from Frederic Malle.

    DTB is extremely hard to describe. It’s floral, salty, slightly synthetic (aldehydic) and fleshy.

    Here’s where I think Maurice Roucel (the nose who created DTB) and Frederic Malle were going with this scent: We are tired of all of the new musk prominent scents in the niche market now. We’ve done musk with Musc Ravageur. We want to do something different – we want to capture the smell of a person, not their animalic properties (or indolic emanations) but their personal smell. But we also don’t want it to smell like a CB I Hate Perfume or Demeter scent – a novelty scent. It should be sophisticated, and let’s throw in a safe floral to make it easier for people to ‘get’. Violets!

    I like violet notes, but this violet note is almost chemically treated in a way that it radiates a fuzziness to it. Nothing close to the musky, civet-heavy barbershop vibe of Midnight Violet by Ava Luxe – or the sharp, pungent violet leaf notes in Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene and Narciso Rodriguez for Him. Rather the violet emanates like a gas behind a wall of synthetic diffused notes. Have you ever walked into a bathroom where someone has sprayed hairspray just a second before you walked into the room – and the air seems charged with ions and almost has a taste that hits the back of your throat? Well, DTB smells like that. Not the smell of hairspray (for that note, see Cuir de Russie by Chanel). But instead the smell of air, that has had hairspray diffused in it. With violets.

    As it warms on my skin, DTB gets slightly more tangy. I think an online review I read mentioned ‘a field of mushrooms’. This description is close but I think it reminds me of the smell of an algae encrusted fountain, in a garden. Perhaps chlorophyll or something akin to mildew, yet dry (not watery or aquatic). Then, the strange accord recedes a bit on my skin and combines with my own skin smell and gives off a blindingly accurate recreation of salty, human skin. Fascinating!

    I used to work cutting grass, as a summer job, during my high school years (I hated it!). In Miami, all landscaping jobs can be grueling due to the sunny, rainy and humid weather. I remember the smell of my clothes throughout the day while working in the hot sun, saturated with sweat and then drying in the work van on the way to the next job. Only to become saturated with sweat all over again, when we started the next job. Not the smell of sour body odor - but very much a sweaty body, dried by the sun.

    The entire duration of the scent is close to the skin, with extremely below average sillage - yet average longevity. When the scent disappears from the surface of my skin, all I could smell was whiffs of the Cashmeran or white musk (I can’t figure out which one it is, since some musks I can’t smell…), with all of the other notes completely gone.

    It’s impossible to compare this scent to any other scent on the market. However, lovers of the perfumer Geza Schon and his stripped down fragrances (Escentric 01 and Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules; gs02 by Biehl) or Christopher Brosius’ strange accords (Chanterelle Mushroom accord by CB I Hate Perfume or Cumming by Alan Cumming) should definitely try DTB because I think it was created with the same sense of fragrant 'vagueness'.

    Perhaps the only drawback for many will be finding a time/place to wear Dans Tes Bras. To a Halloween party? A Flaming Lips concert? To the Burning Man Festival?

    Me? It smells so wonderfully innovative, I plan on getting a full bottle (or atleast one of those travel size bottles) and wearing it whenever I damn well please.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 22nd October 2008 at 10:03 PM.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  3. #33

    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Can't wait to try this...as far as I'm concerned, the weirder the better. Sad that it's the only way to pique my interest these days, but true nevertheless.
    Currently wearing: Arabie by Serge Lutens

  4. #34
    Futami's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Excellent review, Mike!

  5. #35

    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    very thoughtful & imaginitive review Mike, Thnx!

  6. #36
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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh View Post
    Can't wait to try this...as far as I'm concerned, the weirder the better. Sad that it's the only way to pique my interest these days, but true nevertheless.
    LOL

    I was thinking something similar to this, when writing my review.

    Poor Serge Lutens gets scolded so much here on BN (and elsewhere on the net) by coming up with new scents that recycle his familiar accords. When a fragrance house does the complete opposite it's exhilarating isn't it?
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  7. #37

    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh View Post
    Can't wait to try this...as far as I'm concerned, the weirder the better. Sad that it's the only way to pique my interest these days, but true nevertheless.
    hahaha see the quote next to my picture... I totally agree. I simply can't wait to try this.

  8. #38

    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Thank you mikeperez23 for such a wonderful review: you must post to the review section! I think you've described it perfectly. I was so pleased to see you post to the SOTD thread wearing this a few days ago, quietly curious about your thoughts, and am glad to see your review here! Yes, the hairspray fuzzy vibe is definitely there, kind of hovering over your skin, stinging the nostrils. I've found the longevity to be somewhat average, and I agree with you about the below-average sillage. I feel it ought to be applied only to skin for it to evolve: It took a good hour to evolve nicely on my skin. On clothing there was something strange and urine-like (!! not describing that well--help me here...) You've voiced what I could not; such an awesome job. I'm sure I've never experienced anything quite like it. I haven't decided whether I actually like it or not.

    One funny thing, though; why did Maurice Roucel/Frederic Malle delineate this as a feminine fragrance? The SA at the Barney's I went to said he could only see it as a feminine scent as well, and I SO TOTALLY disagree. It just feels like a skin scent, and not particularly feminine. I was very curious to see what guys here had to say on that subject.

  9. #39
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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by Futami View Post
    Excellent review, Mike!
    Well I have you to thank Futami - since you're the one who gifted me the sample that I used to write this review. Much appreciated!
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  10. #40

    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Brilliant review as always, Mike

    This one's going straight to my "to sample" list.


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  11. #41
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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    very thoughtful & imaginitive review Mike, Thnx!
    Quote Originally Posted by javagreen View Post
    Brilliant review as always, Mike
    Much appreciated!
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 23rd October 2008 at 03:36 AM.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  12. #42

    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Perhaps the only drawback for many will be finding a time/place to wear Dans Tes Bras. To a Halloween party? A Flaming Lips concert? To the Burning Man Festival?
    The point that you raise here, is the most important, make it or break it, factor for me. If a fragrance isn't ready to go, then I'm not sure if it really fits into a modern wardrobe.

  13. #43

    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Thanks for the top notch review Mike. I enjoyed reading it very much.

    DTB is at the top of my next decant to buy list. Unfortunately, i don't have the money at the moment.
    Last edited by ajmc; 23rd October 2008 at 05:11 AM.

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by lushsoup View Post
    Thank you mikeperez23 for such a wonderful review: you must post to the review section! I think you've described it perfectly. I was so pleased to see you post to the SOTD thread wearing this a few days ago, quietly curious about your thoughts, and am glad to see your review here! Yes, the hairspray fuzzy vibe is definitely there, kind of hovering over your skin, stinging the nostrils. I've found the longevity to be somewhat average, and I agree with you about the below-average sillage. I feel it ought to be applied only to skin for it to evolve: It took a good hour to evolve nicely on my skin. On clothing there was something strange and urine-like (!! not describing that well--help me here...) You've voiced what I could not; such an awesome job. I'm sure I've never experienced anything quite like it. I haven't decided whether I actually like it or not.

    One funny thing, though; why did Maurice Roucel/Frederic Malle delineate this as a feminine fragrance? The SA at the Barney's I went to said he could only see it as a feminine scent as well, and I SO TOTALLY disagree. It just feels like a skin scent, and not particularly feminine. I was very curious to see what guys here had to say on that subject.
    Thanks lushsoup. I hadn't sprayed DTB on clothes, thanks for the tip. The warmth of skin probably keeps the 'urine' note more musk-ish and skin scented, whereas on cloth/fabric all you smell is the dry down. I'm guessing...

    No, there is nothing that smells like this juice. I could easily see the same ghostly vague effect used with other florals to a dramatic effect. Like iris. Or rose. I'd love to smell these florals 'treated' in the same way that violets are in DTB.

    When you say Frederic Malle delineated this as a feminine fragrance, what does this mean? I thought all Frederic Malle scents were marketed (by Malle) as unisex scents. Did this change with DTB?
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 23rd October 2008 at 05:23 AM.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  15. #45
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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Its decent but I was mildly disappointed. The violet note isn't the greatest (hairspray? Try Roucels' Guerlain Insolence for a similar poorly executed violet note), but I do like the floral mushroomy accord (powdery demure iris + a salty herbal note due to the salicylates); also the cashmeran loaded base is disappointing. I can see why Malle was gushing more about Creeds' Love in Black than his latest .. Love in Blacks radiant violet, lush buttery iris and high quality cedar perform a more competent violet-iris act.
    -

  16. #46

    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Thanks lushsoup. I hadn't sprayed DTB on clothes, thanks for the tip. The warmth of skin probably keeps the 'urine' note more musk-ish and skin scented, whereas on cloth/fabric all you smell is the dry down. I'm guessing...

    No, there is nothing that smells like this juice. I could easily see the same ghostly vague effect used with other florals to a dramatic effect. Like iris. Or rose. I'd love to smell these florals 'treated' in the same way that violets are in DTB.

    When you say Frederic Malle delineated this as a feminine fragrance, what does this mean? I thought all Frederic Malle scents were marketed (by Malle) as unisex scents. Did this change with DTB?
    You know what, I may be wrong. I realize I was basing my comment on Basenote's delineation with the female symbol in the directory, and the remark made by the SA at Barney's, and I think I read it elsewhere but I cannot be sure where. I don't have it from the horse's mouth in reality, and I also thought FM's were not marketed to either sex. So a big NEVERMIND, and we probably should make a symbol change in the directory section to unisex.

  17. #47

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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    First, great review..

    Second, this is marketed at Barneys as a feminine scent, and I assume they didn't make this decision all by themselves. I'm glad to hear it's not very feminine, and I'm definitely curious to try.

    Finally - and this is odd - DTB was for sale on Barney's website as of about two weeks ago, but it is no longer there. I wonder if they've decided to make this an in-store item only (or if they're out of the stock put aside for online orders).

  18. #48

    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    The point that you raise here, is the most important, make it or break it, factor for me. If a fragrance isn't ready to go, then I'm not sure if it really fits into a modern wardrobe.
    I absolutely agree; couldn't have said it better.

    TNMA
    "Why not seize the pleasure at once?"
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  19. #49
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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Yes, this one is right smack in the middle of unisex IMO.

  20. #50
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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Great review! I can't honestly say it's something that's up my alley - I'm not in the market for low-sillage skin scent - but it's good to here FM is keeping things interesting.

  21. #51
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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    The point that you raise here, is the most important, make it or break it, factor for me. If a fragrance isn't ready to go, then I'm not sure if it really fits into a modern wardrobe.
    Quote Originally Posted by thenmarcher View Post
    I absolutely agree; couldn't have said it better.

    TNMA
    Atleast a fourth of my wardrobe is filled with fragrances that are not 'easy' to wear in public.

    I happen to spend a lot of time alone (or at home) and when I am, this is when I'm wearing these types of scents. Just for my enjoyment.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  22. #52

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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Thanks for the thoughtful review, Mike. I have sampled from decant, sampled from Barney's counter, and most definitely will buy. I find it a comfortable skin scent, with a fluttering loveliness to it. Definitely unisex.

  23. #53
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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by ajmc View Post
    Thanks for the top notch review Mike. I enjoyed reading it very much.

    DTB is at the top of my next decant to buy list. Unfortunately, i don't have the money at the moment.
    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    First, great review..

    Second, this is marketed at Barneys as a feminine scent, and I assume they didn't make this decision all by themselves. I'm glad to hear it's not very feminine, and I'm definitely curious to try.

    Finally - and this is odd - DTB was for sale on Barney's website as of about two weeks ago, but it is no longer there. I wonder if they've decided to make this an in-store item only (or if they're out of the stock put aside for online orders).
    You're welcome guys.

    bbBD - Not sure why Barneys is marketing it that way, it's just silly. I bet that Frederic Malle has no idea of this, since from what I know about the company it's never specified the genders of their scents, even the impossibly girly Lipstick Rose and Iris Poudre. And yes, I also noticed it's not on their site either. Maybe Malle gave the online exclusive to someone else??
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  24. #54

    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Atleast a fourth of my wardrobe is filled with fragrances that are not 'easy' to wear in public.
    I happen to spend a lot of time alone (or at home) and when I am, this is when I'm wearing these types of scents. Just for my enjoyment.
    Mike, you're turning into Proust!

  25. #55
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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    I'm not a person who would try this but I have to say Mike that I love reading your reviews. It literally takes you into actually wearing it and is so descriptive. Thanks
    "As you walk down the fairway of life you must smell the roses, for you only get to play one round."
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  26. #56
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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Its decent but I was mildly disappointed. The violet note isn't the greatest (hairspray? Try Roucels' Guerlain Insolence for a similar poorly executed violet note), but I do like the floral mushroomy accord (powdery demure iris + a salty herbal note due to the salicylates); also the cashmeran loaded base is disappointing. I can see why Malle was gushing more about Creeds' Love in Black than his latest .. Love in Blacks radiant violet, lush buttery iris and high quality cedar perform a more competent violet-iris act.
    I was wondering what you thought of DTB zztopp, since you mentioned you were looking forward to the mushroom accord. However I get no iris from DTB and think it has much less to do with Love in Black than perhaps...Stephen Jones by Comme des Garcons. I havent smelled the CdG, but the marketing of it, '...a violet hit by a meteorite...' and some Basenoters impressions of it (Ruggles said it's chock full of aldehydes) sound a little like DTB. Or maybe Insolence that you mentioned (another, that I have not smelled)?
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 23rd October 2008 at 08:19 PM.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  27. #57

    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Just tried this at Barneys yesterday. I think I have to give it another try. The "mushroomy" note smelled like steamed milk to me. I had a similar reaction ... I wasn't sure where/when you could where this.
    On the other hand, I sampled Bois d'Orage, which was great and I'm looking forward to getting.

  28. #58

    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Stephen Jones[/B] by Comme des Garcons. I havent smelled the CdG, but the marketing of it, '...a violet hit by a meteorite...' and some Basenoters impressions of it (Ruggles said it's chock full of aldehydes) sound a little like DTB. Or maybe Insolence that you mentioned (another, that I have not smelled)?
    Insolence opens amazingly loud and cacophonous and then turns into a riff on L'Heure Bleue, as Turin points out in The Guide. Stephen Jones is big, but not shrill. There seems to be a real concerted effort by designer fragrance houses to get away from unisex. If Dan's Bra is unisex, I'd have to say it doesn't relate to these two.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 24th October 2008 at 05:48 PM.

  29. #59
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    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    Great review! I can't honestly say it's something that's up my alley - I'm not in the market for low-sillage skin scent - but it's good to here FM is keeping things interesting.
    Quote Originally Posted by Therese View Post
    Thanks for the thoughtful review, Mike. I have sampled from decant, sampled from Barney's counter, and most definitely will buy. I find it a comfortable skin scent, with a fluttering loveliness to it. Definitely unisex.
    Quote Originally Posted by ToughCool View Post
    I'm not a person who would try this but I have to say Mike that I love reading your reviews. It literally takes you into actually wearing it and is so descriptive. Thanks
    Glad you all enjoyed it. It's easy to get inspired by flat out unique and interesting scents.
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

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    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  30. #60

    Default Re: Dans Tes Bras by Frederic Malle - a review

    Excellent description of course! Thank you :-)

    I think Roucel took that hairspray accord from Insolence (which I like personally) along with the leafy, earthy aspects of the violets and run with it and what intresting results he came up with!
    I don't think this will be as popular as Musc Ravageur (which is not really musky, but ambery to me) in the line, but honestly? It's much more intriguing.

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