After one month testing my favorite fragances in the hot and humid mexican summer I want to share some points of view:
The XIX century fragance Hamman Bouquet: I can´t imagine Englishmen wearing it when India was a British colony. Maybe at fresh and cold parts of India, but in a hot weather it get an odd and strange basenote. Sure taste changes from time to time and/or places or cultures, but to me HB loses its richness and character in a hot weather.
Floris Vetiver: It loses sillage getting a “near skin” aura. But it has stability. It has not given surprises. But humidity maybe begins a “fermentation” that change the fragance development. The lavish Voleur de roses loses his elegance. I can´t feel the freshness of the soil, plum and roses. A rich and complex top note at the beginning, but soon changes to a not so gorgeous smell. My last purchase was when I was coming to Mexico, Un jardin après la Mousson at Barajas Airport. Immediately I remind Biagiotti’s Aqua di Roma Uomo, and indeed it has a “sandía” (=watermelon) note. The tiny booklet says that it has Kahili Ginger (Hedychium coronarium) a flower that I know since my childhood. Here is very common known as “mariposa” and it´s the Cuba national flower. By coincidence it´s flowering right now and you can buy them at traditional markets. I bought some flowers and I must to say that I didn´t recognize the note when I smelled both at the same time. But it´s “round”, stable and long-lasting. Rosa by SMNovella because it's a linear frag, there aren´t suprises, but in Madrid I felt it as a “cold rose” and here I could describe it as a “green rose”. Not so “oily” scent as Bulgarain rose so it´s fresh and wearable.
I´m changing my opinion about Terre d’Hermès. Here I feel it too “strident” and a little heavy.
So... aside from the above Un jardin and Terre... are niche fragances less stables than designers ones in a hot/humid place? They tend to have significant changings, I don´t know if the natural components are less stables than synthetic ones. I´m thinking to return to designers juices, because I feel that they are more stable. Anyone with the same experience?