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  1. #1

    Default Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    Hello,
    I live in India, A very very few of you might know me. I would like to say hello and thanks to Sixcats, Narcus, womble, quarry, Mastorer and Masionstinky among others (excuse me if I miss out any names). Hello, since I've been out of touch for so long, and thanks, because one or the other of you have been generous enough with their time and notes, as well as some perfumes that I really cherish.

    I have been very inactive on BN for a long time. Work and other things kept me occupied, so much so that I didn't get the time for perfumes, visit BN and even post when I logged in just to see what was going on in the perfume world. In fact, it was fairly recently that I bought another perfume - Bogart PH (not the signature). I absolutely love its tobacco and vanilla notes. I think its pretty underrated.

    I have been following some threads with interest, among others, the Oud thread, and have noticed the growing interest in perfume oils (read attars etc) by so many of the perfume loving friends in the west. While I'm not an experienced person and have had no exposure to 'good' perfumes or niche perfumery in general, I have had the good fortune to try out a few that I have liked.

    Recently, I had the opportunity to send a few perfume oils to a friend, and I would like to share my experiences at the perfume shop with you.

    Mysore Sandalwood : This sandalwood oil I tried was 35% pure. I can't describe the exact smell, but let me try! It was a sharp woody opening (sort of like pencil shavings, but much milder) - that immediately left and left a glorious sandalwood odour. Having smelled sandalwood and variants all my life, it was immediately recognizable as a much more concentrated version of the sandalwood incense sticks or soaps that are all too prevalent here. Yep, its a lovely smell, and even by itself (linear), it was very .... 'smooth'. It lasted for a long while too, a rough guess would be 12+ hours and going steady even then.

    Oud SP : This was a strong oud, non smoky. My perfumer friend said it was about 20% pure. I felt it was great, as it didn't have the overwhelming quality that another oud I tried had. Let me explain about that one next.

    Oud A : The cryptic label on that bottle didn't prepare me for the intense blast that wafted out. It seemed to reach right into my brain and bash me like a punch from a boxer. That is the only explanation I can give. It was very... woody and smoky at the same time, and had a peculiarly strong medicinal quality which was much more pronounced than the other usual Ouds have. I wouldn't fiddle about with this stuff for sure, I think it is guaranteed headache material (Kouros is a small kid compared to this potency). As my perfumer friend said, this was A grade Oud, for the Saudi market (and ridiculously expensive as well).

    Dehan Ul Oud : I'm not sure if this is the same stuff as has been mentioned in the other Oud thread, but as a rough explanation, its about 15-20% of the potency of the Oud A. Much better (read safer).

    Here, I would like to mention a lovely staple of Indian perfumes - Ruh Khus.

    Khus is vetiver, and its pretty common here in India, not just as a perfume, but also used as a cooling product (we have Khus mats that are hung on the windows in summer, and when you pour water on them, you get a COOL room, with a lovely fragrance to boot!). You can also find Khus sharbats (lovely sweet drink that is), agarbatties (incense sticks) etc etc.

    Its easy to describe this fragrance. By itself, it might not be to everyone's liking. All ruhs are linear fragrances, Khus has a mossy green feeling about it. Its musty in its opening, but goes to a smooth strong vetiver (green - lush and mossy at the same time!) in just a bit. Any good ruh worth its name will last... and last. That, I suppose goes for most of the perfume oils. They will last much longer than you could possibly want.. or not..!

    Another perfume I like is a blend. My perfumer calls it Mukammal and I have him blend some oud with it. Mukammal is a lovely saffron, sandalwood and oud blend. It is smooth, and not spicy. I have tried Montale's black oud, and for me, Mukammal+Oud emerges a winner (different note types in both of these, but similar perfume orientation).

    Finally, let me mention an incredible 'exclusive' perfume that my perfumer friend let me sample. It is called Waqfi, and what a gorgeous blend this is. One of my all time favourites is Xeryus, I absolutely adore the opening and drydown that is Xeryus. Not since I sniffed.. and sniffed Xeryus have I deeply inhaled so much of a delicious perfume. It starts off with a few slighty fruity (likely synthetic) notes, and then has an immense saffron and sandalwood burst. That is something to experience! With a bit of Oud, and some other unnamed ingredients, I really liked this creation! Expensive stuff though .

    I would like to share a couple of notes on the application of perfume oils. Unlike sprays, which disperse the perfume on a larger area, you usually apply the perfume oil with a stick or roll it on. You have tiny bottles ranging from 3, 5 to 10 ml or more. 10 Ml is called a 'tola' here, which is the measure for perfumes. To put things in perspective, 3ML will last a LONG time.
    How to apply? : Dab a 'little' perfume on the crook of your elbow or the inner/outer part of your hand, then, rub it vigorously with the other hand/wrist so as to spread it a bit. This is the technique/practice I've always seen. You do not apply perfume oil on clothes as it will leave a stain. However, you can dab a bit on the inside of your wrist, rub it slightly with the other hand, and then rub it over your clothes to get a deep long lasting fragrance.

    Many people here like to coat a tiny cotton swab with some perfume oil, and then apply that in the ear (the cotton stays in the groove just above the ear hole). I haven't done so personally, but I see many people doing it all the time, looks like they love carrying their perfume around all day long!

    I think I have rambled on enough. Finally, I would like to thank Night for getting me to post again.
    Ah, and my friends who have experience with some perfume oils - I would be glad if you could give your inputs as to how you found them.
    Last edited by AK3D; 7th August 2008 at 07:53 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    Excellent Post Buddy!! very very informative.

  3. #3
    Mudassir's Avatar
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    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    Thanks AK3D.

    Here is a bit of information on the most common indian attars in case someone is interested. The middle eastern ones (specifically in and around the arabian peninsula) are the epitome of perfumery.

    Shamamatul Amber - Exotic Herbal, earthy and spicy fragrance.
    Attar Majmua - incense, woody, musky and floral fragrance.
    Ruh Kewra - essense of Pandanus flower.
    Attar Motia - Jasmine with a touch of sandalwood
    Jannatul Firdaus - citrusy floral
    Mogra- predominantly jasmine with woody and spicy undertones.
    Raat Ki Rani (Night Queen) - Its a flower found in india. Essense of the flower with citrus to tone down the strong floral aroma.
    Ruh Khus - Very refreshing vetiver essense.
    Offsite Sales - Updated June7th

    Vintage Dia, Vetiver Dry, Angel parfum, Opium parfum for Sale:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/215962

  4. #4

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    Fantastic post and much appreciated!
    You must visit more often AK3D.

    I am surprised that you do not like the oud oil full strength.
    Your Mukammel sounds the same as the Arabic Mukhalat's that I have been reading about, all of which I really would like to sample.

    Lastly, I also find it interesting that you like Western perfumes with all that is available to you.
    I have sort of gone the other way, transitioning from years of using Western scents to having a major interest in things closer to you. :-)

  5. #5

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    I've always wanted to know more about Eastern perfumes. Thanks so much!

    .

  6. #6

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    @Jenson, Thanks
    @ Mudassir, Thanks for listing those. I am planning on a trip to the perfumer's soon and getting some more names and descriptions.
    @ evogel, That oud was very strong. Much more so than the other ones I've tried. I don't think I'd like something that gives an instant headache! . Thanks for the appreciation, I will get more information on the perfume oils available locally soon. As to the western perfumes, I have always liked those. You see, Sandalwood, Khus (Vetiver), Rose, Oud are so common here (at least to my nose) that something 'different' always appeals to me. Mind you, I'm not a fan of the newer 'fresh' fragrances. The classics like Paco Rabanne, Drakkar Noir, Gentleman etc etc appeal to me both because they're different as well as smell good (to my nose, at least!).
    @ LuciusVorenus, Thank you.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    Beautiful ....
    L'amour fait songer, vivre et croire. Il a, pour réchauffer le coeur, un rayon de plus que la gloire; et ce rayon, c'est le bonheur. (Victor HUGO)

  8. #8

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    I've smelled the Oud A, Jannat e Firdos amongst others and yeap it's 100% export material and bloody expensive. Some middle eastern people pick it up personally on their tours to India too.

    The Waqfi fascinates me though, sounds very interesting.


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  9. #9

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    Aw, thanks Night.
    Thanks Javagreen. Pricing depends on the quality. I have seen 'cheap' J-U-F's as well, for only about a couple of $, but their quality wasn't so good (the fragrance was jarring, rather than smooth).

    Here's a picture of the perfume shop I visit.



    To the top left are the really expensive perfumes. Ouds, Sandalwood, Rose etc. The top middle shelf has the mid-range and blends like JUF, Khadin, Samawat ul amber (and many other ambers!), Henna.. etc etc. To the right - just behind where the guy in the brown shirt (both friends of mine - the perfumer brothers) is standing are the very cheap fragrances that go for less than 5$ a bottle. On the desk are two Ouds in the middle - the light brown one is a blend, the other DARK one near the calculator is .... very expensive. . This pic was taken over 2 years ago. I shall update with something new sometime soon.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    Love the picture! reminds me of a few shops I've been too

    Agree about the variety available (in terms of pricing). At some of the places I had to talk to the main owner into producing the real 'exclusive' stuff for me to checkout as by default they push only the midrange stuff.
    Last edited by Amit; 9th August 2008 at 07:44 PM.


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  11. #11

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    Quote Originally Posted by javagreen View Post
    Love the picture! reminds me of a few shops I've been too

    Agree about the variety available (in terms of pricing). At some of the places I had to talk to the main owner into producing the real 'exclusive' stuff for me to checkout as by default they push only the midrange stuff.
    Agreed, they will only show the routine stuff unless its a 'paying' or known customer!! However, its real fun to browse through the Attar shops.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    I don't like there no credit policy
    My Top Six - Guerlain Vetiver, Santal Noble, Bois Du Portugal, Antaeus, GIT, Vetiver Extraordinaire

    Wardrobe

  13. #13

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    Quote Originally Posted by achanna View Post
    I don't like there no credit policy
    HAHAHAH! . However, I do get a lot of credit! I simply select the ones I want, and walk off to test them at my leisure if there are a lot of customers around.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    This one is the other thread. Let me know.
    L'amour fait songer, vivre et croire. Il a, pour réchauffer le coeur, un rayon de plus que la gloire; et ce rayon, c'est le bonheur. (Victor HUGO)

  15. #15

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    Hello, and welcome back my friend, missed you a lot. I have been gone for over a week, (not much internet access at the time). I finally have settled and got the access, and this is the first post I am doing after more than a week.

    I am so so glad that you are back .
    Vijay"Maisonstinky"

  16. #16

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    Same here Vijay. Trust you're doing well my friend! Talk to you soon .
    Btw, the Jean Pascal is still one of my favourite fragrances. Its very very unique!

  17. #17

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    Oh, what a wonderful surprise to see you here! Welcome back AK3D!
    And thank you for highlighting some of India's beautiful treasures to us.
    I read your perfume descriptions, like a sponge absorbs the water .
    Xerius - that's the black label?

    Vijay, nice to also hear from you again, and in this same thread, too!
    It all started in the summer of 2006 when your Montale Aoud samples were collectively discussed on this board.
    With the first drop of Aoud Leather, and A Lime on my skin I felt that my world has changed forever! Without the
    kindness of you both, I would not have known anything about Montale, ouds/attars, and the wonderful smell of saffron
    and other gems from the orient.
    Last edited by narcus; 11th August 2008 at 06:01 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    Good to see you back AK3D and thank you for a very informative thread. Yes, interest in attars and Eastern materials is growing very much here.

    Vijay! Good to hear from you too. Hope everything's going great with you.

    Please keep the good information coming.
    RM

  19. #19

    Default Re: Re-introduction, Thanks and a few notes on Attars/perfume oils

    @Narcus : Thank you so much . I'm glad you liked the descriptions. Perhaps you could also share some reviews of the eastern fragrances you have! Xeryus is by Givenchy and I think it was originally in a black bottle. These days it has a generic bottle.

    My descriptions are but meagre compared to the ones I found in this link - very interesting information for everyone indeed! http://members.aol.com/somanath/fragrant.html
    Edit : Wow! even better are the links he has - http://members.aol.com/somanath/weblinks.html - There is a lot of very useful information to go through there. Definitely worth bookmarking!

    @Renaissance_Man : Thank you for the welcome and appreciation. I will try and review some Attars myself - there is no dearth of them here!
    Last edited by AK3D; 11th August 2008 at 08:56 PM. Reason: Info added

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