I'm going to post a topic called "Laxatives and the Overwhelming Scent". jk!
My favorite notes are the Citruses. I love the smell of orange, lime, lemon, bergamot and other citrus fruits. I think citruses are masculine without having too much testosterone, are clean, bright, sunny, uplifiting, refined but simple, and sensual without being too obvious about it. To me, citruses are pure class.
But the problem is that citruses are not very long lasting. Even the best citruses fade out after a couple of hours.
My question is this: would citruses and other fleeting scents benefit from a higher concentration of fixatives in the perfume? Is there a way of improving the stability of these scents, making them last longer? If I understand correctly, the fixatives are usually the most expensive ingredient in a perfume. So maybe the manufacturers don't put as much fixative in the perfume as they should. Would it be possible to increase the longevity of a citrus scent by adding more fixative to it? Or maybe the only solution is to buy pure citrus oil and apply it directly to the skin?
Have you ever considered these questions? What do you think about it?
Last edited by LuciusVorenus; 16th August 2008 at 02:28 AM.
I'm going to post a topic called "Laxatives and the Overwhelming Scent". jk!
Lucius, unfortunately, citruses don't last too long . I like the hesperides as well, but its a quality of the note that it fades out rather quickly. Pure citrus oil won't last at all! (I've been there/done that ). Michael Storer once recommended some excellent citrus material, I think it was Hedione. Added to a perfume you make, it gives a long-lasting citrus.
Some good citrus fragrances that I've experienced : Armani Eau PH, Eau de Rochas PH, West Indian limes by Trumpers (its really good, but doesn't last) and Bigarade Concentree by FM.
Fixatives are not expensive. Dipropylene glycol and diethyl phthalate are good fixatives so is Hedione. The thing is that if you use enough fixative to significantly prolong a top note then you also significantly reduce its projection.
All these moments will be lost in time, like tears in rain.
The oils that last are things like patchouli, musk, sandalwood, and oak moss; notes that are traditionally used in fragrance bases.
Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 19th August 2008 at 07:07 AM.
Has anyone tried Glucam P-20?
For a long time, I have been searching for an ingredient that I could use that would make perfumes last longer on the skin. In particular, I wanted to make the top and middle notes more persistant. So I started searching....and searching....
i finally found a product made from corn called glucam p-20. This product extends the life of top and middle notes in a fragrance. Use the links at the left to learn more.
Jasmine lasts quite awhile, and really seems to modify other notes strongly. On a scale of 1-10 longevity, jasmine is probably around a 7, vetiver & vanilla (and many others) a 9: orange, lemon, bergamot a 1, may chang (lemony), lemon myrtle, neroli a 2 or 3: orange blossom absolute a 5 or 6, etc.
Iris Pallida 50ml
Ungaro I 75ml
and more! - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more
eaven citrus perfume can be last long if you get the right one
you should go with BLUE D CHANEL
So much that is wrong with this thread. DPG is not a fixative; it does not make any fragrance last longer. It is used only as an odourless solvent. DEP does not disrupt the endocrine system. There are other chemicals, other Phthalates which possible do this, but DEP is not one of them.
Never put concentrated Essential Oils on your skin. All Citrus oils contain a chemical (Limonene) which has been shown to be a skin sensitiser, and is on the list of 26 potential allergens. In dilution, Citrus Oils are OK for most people, but using them at 100.0% is risky.
All Citrus Oils are top notes, and so do not last a long time. There is no magic fix, no special ingredient that you can add to any fragrance to make it last longer without changing its character.
Where can DEP be purchased?
Google "Diethyl Phthalate buy". You will find lists of suppliers. Go to www.lookchem.com>Products. You will need the Cas No. of DEP which is 84-66-2 Google can find most things.
Thank you so much for that; made me laugh. So often, I feel that I am that site.
FIXATIVE FOR PERFUME
Abalyn™ D-E Methyl Ester of Rosin
Floraesters K-100 Jojoba
Floraesters K-20W Jojoba
Sepicide LDForalyn 5020-
F CG Hydrogenated Rosinate
Eastman DEP, Fragrance Grade99.5 wt % min. Global Essence DI ETHYL PHTHALATE INDUKERN DIETHYL PHTALATE Inoue Perfumery DIETHYL PHTHALATE John D. Walsh Diethyl Phthalatemsds Moellhausen diethyl phthalate98% min. nature identical kosher
Odor: practically odourless.
Flavor: bitter, slightly fruity.
Penta International DIETHYL PHTHALATE N.F., Koshermsds Penta International DIETHYL PHTHALATE, Koshermsds SAFC Global Diethyl phthalatemsds
SAFC Global Diethyl phthalatemsds
fragrance grade, ≥99.5%
Tokyo Chemical Industry Diethyl Phthalate >98.0%(GC) Treatt Diethyl Phthalate Unitex UNIPLEX 105 Ventos DIETHYL PHTHALATE Vigon International Diethyl Phthalatemsds
With any fixative the danger is that you will flatten the fragrance - the top-notes lose their sparkle - if you over-do it.
Another way to extend citrus is to use intermediate materials that have similar notes: so for example use lemongrass or petitgrain from the same type of citrus. I find olibanum (frankincense) EO is also useful for extending some citrus and there are synthetics like Orange Power or Lemonile (both Givaudan) that will give you a long-lasting note for those types of citrus.
I feel as thought I've written all that before, more than once, so perhaps it's time for a blog post on the subject . . .
The way to get natural citrus to last is to build a perfume from the ground up that, every step of the way, is designed to get citrus to last.
All your base and heart notes have to be citrus enhancing. There is no quick fix, or magic substance.
Angelica, myrrh, deer musk, civet, and jasmine, litsea, and lemongrass are examples of notes elsewhere in a perfume that will enhance citrus. The old animalis base is good for citrus. Linalool is good, because it lasts long, as well as supporting citrus on the top end.
Plan on using lots of bergamot, as much as you can get away with, as that's really the longest lasting natural pure citrus top note.
If you want to get into perfume chemistry, there are a lot more strategies for this, of course.
OMG Paul. Thanks for the extensive DEP list. You rock.
No miracle anyway. If you want to extend the life of a material in a fragrance, you reduce his effect in an other part of it. Want more citrus time with a fixative ? > less lift and sparkling. A fixative doesn't create "new material". Because of Lavoisier
You could always turn to the dark side...
'Also called myrmac aldehyde this material is manufactured by IFF, who describe it like this: “Clean, tenacious, ozone note with aldehydic warmth and diffusion. Booster for fragrances requiring a fresh outdoors effect.”
Best used in small amounts, this is a really excellent fresh-air ingredient.
CAS Number: 52474-60-9
Full chemical name: 1-methyl-3-(4-methylpent-3-enyl) cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde
With Precyclemone B you get a very long-lasting freshening effect that works exceptionally well in citrus fragrances where you want to prolong the fresh feel beyond the life of the short-lived citrus oils. In traces it can lighten almost any perfume, larger amounts can be used in room-fresheners and marine compositions.'
I haven't tried that btw, but it's on my list of things to buy.
Precyclemone B is one of the key materials in the Cool Water accord (others are Dihydromyrcenol and Allyl Amyl Glycolate). If you want to use synthetics then Hedione works really well in Citrus fragrances, and is a good fixative.
A bit o/t here, but does anyone know of an aromachem that smells like ozone? Not 'sea breezes' or 'ocean spray' but actual trioxygen.
There is a chemical that smells like hot iron, but I'm damned if I can remember its name.
I think that the perfumers term 'ozonic' is a little misleading as it seems to be used to describe fresh, oceanic smells. Actual ozone (O3) smells like halogens, metal, and sparks. The underground bits of London Underground smell of it. Other underground electrical train systems probably smell the same.
Apparently, the chemical responsible for the real life 'seaside ozone' is dimethyl sulphide; presumably in trace amounts.