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  1. #1

    Default Leather: after the reformulations.

    There are a lot of old threads on great leather fragrances, but it seems that within the past year that nearly all the great leathers have been reformulated, including Chanel, Caron, Guerlain and Hermes. What is the current state of the leather fragrance art?

    Leaving their vintage formulations to the history books, what is the aristocracy of leather fragrances based on their present formulations?
    "When he shook hands with me my nostrils were assailed by all the perfumes of Arabia."
    - W. Somerset Maugham

  2. #2

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    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    yep, the reformulated Bel Ami sucks....really sucks IMO.

    Knize 10 is still glorious, but tough to find...and rumours are it may be discontinued----however i don't believe it's true. it probably is being reformulated as we speak though, due to difficulty in obtaining some of the ingredients.

    Cuiron is legendary, but discontinued. they say it's coming back....i dunno whether this is true or not.

    Guerlain Habit Rouge...is it reformulated? it still smells very leathery...but not that great, IMO. Too one dimensional as i see it.
    Last edited by everso; 18th August 2008 at 02:29 AM.

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    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    The greatest sin has been Caron's Tabac Blond. Not to mention, you wont be spending much more scoring a vintage bottle based on the price
    Offsite Sales - Updated June7th

    Vintage Dia, Vetiver Dry, Angel parfum, Opium parfum for Sale:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/215962

  4. #4

    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Two modern leathers of note: Parfum d'Habit (1988) by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier and Anvers 2 (2007) by Ulrich Lang.
    I was very disappointed by Etat Libre d'Orange's Tom of Finland.
    Leather may be a dying note.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Leather may just be too challenging for a general public whose idea of fragrance is stuff like D&G Light Blue and Acqua di Gio. On the other hand, Chanel's Cuir de Russie and Guerlain's Derby stand tall even in reformulation. Eau d'Hermes remains gloriously intact, and Ruggles is quite right to mention Parfum d'Habit. There is also a newer breed of more transparent, often incense-seasoned leather scents that I see as a hopeful sign of evolution in the genre. I'm thinking of fragrances like Dzongkha, Dia, Idole, Timbuktu, Palais Jamais, and Cuir d'Oranger which take leather in new and interesting directions.

    No, leather is not dead yet...

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Has anyone tried this one?

    Auguste Esprit de Cuir

    Sounds pretty promising in the Luckyscent description (but what does not...). A bit expensive though.

    http://64.233.183.104/search?q=cache...lnk&cd=6&gl=se
    Last edited by pelle; 18th August 2008 at 10:17 AM.
    "Wonderfully wild, eminently civilized" - Derby by Guerlain

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    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Odori Cuio is nice, but expensive.
    - A spritz of Caron may be quite continental, but (a flacon of) Guerlain is a perfumisto's best friend...

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    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Leather is my favorite category and is far from being dead.

    Granted, many of my leather fragrances have been around for a long time.

    However, these are just some of the excellent leathers that have been recently introduced (and are still in production):

    Comme des Garcons 2 Man (2004)
    Declaration (1998)
    Idole de Lubin (2005)
    Daim Blond (2004)
    Richard James Savile Row (2003)
    Cuir Mauresque (1996)
    Brooks Brothers 1818 (2004)
    Tom Ford Extreme (2007)
    Tabacco Toscano (2008)
    Acqua di Cuba (1998)
    HN Men (2003)
    Dzing! (1999)
    Last edited by TwoRoads; 18th August 2008 at 04:43 PM.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  9. #9

    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Did Tom Ford Extreme end as a limited edition or is is still in production?

    I'm wearing Chanel's CdR today, and in full wear (3 sprays beneath the shirt) this is a very rich, very smooth fragrance. The aldehydes which were so pronounced with just a spray on the wrist fall into the background, adding some brightness to the otherwise dark accord. This is civet and leather, no apologies. Honestly, this strikes me more as a masculine.
    Last edited by Carlos; 18th August 2008 at 05:33 PM. Reason: additional comment
    "When he shook hands with me my nostrils were assailed by all the perfumes of Arabia."
    - W. Somerset Maugham

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    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoRoads View Post
    Leather is my favorite category and is far from being dead.

    Granted, many of my leather fragrances have been around for a long time.

    However, these are just some of the excellent leathers that have been recently introduced (and are still in production):

    Comme des Garcons 2 Man (2004)
    Declaration (1998)
    Idole de Lubin (2005)
    Daim Blond (2004)
    Richard James Savile Row (2003)
    Cuir Mauresque (1996)
    Brooks Brothers 1818 (2004)
    Tom Ford Extreme (2007)
    Tabacco Toscano (2008)
    Acqua di Cuba (1998)
    HN Men (2003)
    Dzing! (1999)
    you forgot KNIZE! the king of em all!

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    I like the reformulated Derby quite a bit; It's my favorite leather fragrance. It's getting hard to come by. I was lucky enough to score a 100 ML bottle from Ebay for $160 this week! That ought to last me for a little while anyway.

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    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    Two modern leathers of note: Parfum d'Habit (1988) by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier and Anvers 2 (2007) by Ulrich Lang.
    I was very disappointed by Etat Libre d'Orange's Tom of Finland.
    Leather may be a dying note.

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoRoads View Post
    Leather is my favorite category and is far from being dead.

    Granted, many of my leather fragrances have been around for a long time.

    However, these are just some of the excellent leathers that have been recently introduced (and are still in production):

    Comme des Garcons 2 Man (2004)
    Declaration (1998)
    Idole de Lubin (2005)
    Daim Blond (2004)
    Richard James Savile Row (2003)
    Cuir Mauresque (1996)
    Brooks Brothers 1818 (2004)
    Tom Ford Extreme (2007)
    Tabacco Toscano (2008)
    Acqua di Cuba (1998)
    HN Men (2003)
    Dzing! (1999)

    Quote Originally Posted by everso View Post
    you forgot KNIZE! the king of em all!
    everso, I was responding to Ruggle's view that "leather may be a dying note" by listing a bunch of excellent leather fragrances that have been introduced recently. I love Knize Ten too but, since it has been around since 1924, it did not make my list of 'recent' introductions.

    I should have been clearer - my wording was awkward.
    Last edited by TwoRoads; 23rd August 2008 at 02:44 AM.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  13. #13

    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    I was very disappointed by Etat Libre d'Orange's Tom of Finland.
    Leather may be a dying note.
    I think the problem with ToF is that the leather accord seems incomplete. There's no civet or castoreum to flesh it out. It is like they forgot to put in the basenotes.
    "When he shook hands with me my nostrils were assailed by all the perfumes of Arabia."
    - W. Somerset Maugham

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    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Quote Originally Posted by everso View Post
    you forgot KNIZE! the king of em all!
    DITTO!!!,. PS one of the SA's at a store in NY said the problem in getting goods is there is no american distributer at this time.

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    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Quote Originally Posted by richard d View Post
    DITTO!!!,. PS one of the SA's at a store in NY said the problem in getting goods is there is no american distributer at this time.
    you're right...the stuff isn't entering the US at this time...there are customs issues.

    there are ALSO issues from the ingredient suppliers to Knize. Supposedly they aren't getting the ingredients in enough supply to produce the Knize stuff in proper amounts, hence why they're rare at the moment.

    i've been assured this will be corrected...and i've heard that in Germany, Austria, France...it's not hard to find this stuff...but in the US it is damn hard.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos View Post
    Did Tom Ford Extreme end as a limited edition or is is still in production?
    Tom Ford Extreme is still listed on his website, which leads me to believe it's still in production.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Not to forget Creed's Royal English Leather, the smoothie of leathers. Their Cuir de Russie is pretty interesting as well.

    Besides the inimitable Knize Ten and others mentioned, theres Tauer's Lone Star - too tarry for me, but certainly a great scent, and the little talked about but utterly brilliant Or Black by Morabito.
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  18. #18

    Default Re: Leather: after the reformulations.

    Quote Originally Posted by everso View Post
    yep, the reformulated Bel Ami sucks....really sucks IMO.
    Wow, that sucks, because I really like it. I've been trying to find a vintage forumaltion with no luck though

    Cuiron is legendary, but discontinued. they say it's coming back....i dunno whether this is true or not.
    Even if it is, it's rather easy to find, there was a whole swarm of people here who ordered some when it was being offered at a fairly big discount.

    Cuiron is probably my favorite leather and the one I've been searching for for a long time.

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