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  1. #1

    Default Branching out...

    Hello again... I'm posting here compared to Men's Frags because I think it's a little more applicable.. mods, if you don't think so, feel free to move..

    Some of you may have seen my first thread. Basically, I've been doing a ton of smelling and a little buying (more smelling than I reported here,) and I seem to be falling decidedly in that fresh/clean category...

    I own:
    Givenchy Very Irr. Fresh Attitude
    Lanvin Vetyver
    Lanvin Oxygene
    YSL L'homme (the exception to the clean list.)
    Bvlgari Aqva.
    Lauder Beyond Paradise for Men



    Of these, I love them all, each in their own way.

    Now I'm looking for stuff a bit different from this. So far, everything else I've smelled in this category (Aqva Marine, Clinique Happy, KC Reaction, etc, etc,) has smelled so similar that I wouldn't be redundant in the purchase. I don't mind spending the money for a good wardrobe, but at the same time, I don't want to buy two scents that are essentially identical, when I could get something else.

    Also, my skin does something to semi-sweet smells... Most Givenchy (especially the VI FA) and things like Armani Diamonds, Gucii PH, etc, all turn to mocha smelling on me. I love how the FA does it, but again, no need to get redundant scents yet.

    I tried most of the Bvlgari line... I hate the tobacco note that's in some of it (also, due to my looks and personality, can't pull off a tobacco base. Other scents (like Pi, and even Pi Neo,) are just far too sweet for me. Again, they don't fit me well, and I also get easily light headed from those type of scents.

    I was recommended the Jo Malone line by a knowledgeable (seemingly) SA, but no one around me has it to smell...

    So.. basically I'm looking if there are relatively mainstream (I don't WANT mainstream, but I also want something not super-niche) scents that are at least likeably by someone who likes that fresh/clean feeling in a frag, that at the same time isn't redundant for what I have now...

    Thanks for listening to the super vague question...

  2. #2

    Default Re: Branching out...

    Try Thierry Mugler Ice*Men. I have very similar tastes to you and find that this one start off as fresh / aquatic, but drys down into a beautiful iced-mocha coffee mixed with the top notes of Thierry Mugler Angel.
    Looking for: Andy Tauer - L'air du Desert Morocain & Incense Extreme

    Check out my NEW Aussie sale / trade thread here -
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/249...76#post1801576

  3. #3

    Default Re: Branching out...

    These aren't particularly mainstream, and I'm sure you'd have to order samples, but I think Maitre Perfumer et Gantier is a good house to explore for you, as they are niche but not that expensive (about $100 for 100ml) and they smell more raw and natural than any other house I've come across.

    Some fresh or semi-fresh scents from them worth checking out

    Grain de Plaisir - An herbal lemon with hints of celery seed. Very dry and not at all sweet, but not herbal in the sense that you feel like you spilled a random collection of essential oils on your skin. One of the most beautiful lemon openings I've ever smelled. The heartnotes are clean, fresh, dry, it evokes images of a virgin wheatfield on a windy summer day.

    Fraicheur and Sanguine Muskissime - the drydowns of these are similar. Fraicheur starts with a berry and tart citrus, and Sanguine with the most beautiful grapefruit and blood orange, and both dry down to a fresh musky skinscent with just a hint of bitterness (not as bitter as say Bulgari PH though.) Longevity is really good, although sillage is only moderate to normal.

    Centaure - Starts out with a blast of mint and lavender and a slightly bitter note that keeps it interesting (I think it's wormwood, personally). It stays cool and dark, getting more woody as it dries down.. woody and smoky and a tad bit animalic as the jasmine note rears its head (a drier, less indolic jasmine than those found in a lot of womens perfumes). Starts cool and fresh, I'd even say a bit dark and melancholic (similar vibe as I get from Burberry London, though they smell quite different), and gets more masculine, warmer and sensual as it dries down. This is a walk through a winter wood at dusk.

    -----

    And now for something you can find cheaply at TJ Maxx or the like.

    Grey Flannel - starts out STRONG and green.. you'll wonder wth you were thinking a moment earlier when you decided to press the atomizer. But, within 30 minutes it mellows down and you are left with one of the most beautiful drydowns of all time. Fresh and green with a wonderful oakmoss and sandalwood note. It gets cleaner, fresher, and more uplifting as time goes by. A must try. One spray to the chest is ALL you should need, anymore and you'll be 'that guy.'

    edit: and some more to check out

    V&R Antidote - starts out with a nice citrus lavender grapefruit mint opening and transitions to a cinnamon and nutmeg heart with hints of jasmine, and finally a vanillic ambery base. On a card this smells thin and terrible as the heart notes are completely veiled by the top notes, it needs to be tried on skin!

    Terre d'Hermes - what can I say about this that hasn't been said? I'm coming around to it myself, finally, after initially being extremely underwhelmed. It still smells a bit too synthetic to my nose, but it has a nice earthy orange, pepper, cedar, grapefruit thing going on. Very good longevity and sillage.

    L'Anarchiste - not as intimidating or out there as many make it sound, but still distinctly different from anything you'll find at a department store. Lots of cinnamon, cardamom, clove and cedar leaf up top and in the heart, along with a dirty orange note (somewhat like the dirty orange in Terre d'Hermes), all of this over a base of vetiver and 'golden musks.' It does smell a bit, in an abstract way, of dried blood or 'iron' but it warms up over time and becomes a golden 'second skin' of sorts as the heart transitions into the base. GREAT in the summer, and just as great in the colder months (autumn especially, where it is absolutely perfect.) Not exactly "fresh" compared to what you have.. it's quite a bit spicier, but the aura it ultimately exudes is clean, elegant, refined.. worth a sniff.
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 24th August 2008 at 01:52 PM.
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  4. #4

    Default Re: Branching out...

    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony87 View Post
    Try Thierry Mugler Ice*Men. I have very similar tastes to you and find that this one start off as fresh / aquatic, but drys down into a beautiful iced-mocha coffee mixed with the top notes of Thierry Mugler Angel.
    Sounds good. Worth a sample, I'm just wondering if it will almost get too mocha-y on me.

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Grain de Plaisir -

    Fraicheur and Sanguine Muskissime -
    Centaure -
    -----

    And now for something you can find cheaply at TJ Maxx or the like.

    Grey Flannel -

    V&R Antidote -
    Terre d'Hermes -
    L'Anarchiste -

    (snipped for size)
    Centaur and Fraicheur both sound intriguing. I'd have to say that's the word I'll use for it... definently be putting both of those on my sample list.

    Grain de Plaisir I think I would try if I found it, but I suspect that it will be too... elemental... on me. I can't do those very dry, earthy smells. It doesn't fit my personality well at all.

    Grey Flannel sounds very good. The only think I'm worried about is that it's too 'old' of a smell. That said, I never knew that before I read the reviews, and I liked the description, so I'll try that as well.


    Of all the things listed, off description alone, Antidote seems to be my thing. Will certainly be getting a way to sample that soon too.

    Td'H I read a lot about here. It sounds... good... but un-extrordinary. I'll smell it if I find it though..

    L'anarchiste has me worried. I don't really like that iron-y smell, but the next part you wrote, and the top noted, both sound good.


    Thanks much for the info.


    I ended up wearing YSL L'homme again today. I realize not a lot of people here like it, but I absolutely love that, and it's not fresh or aquatic at all. At least I know I like more beyond that category.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Branching out...

    A lot of my suggestions were simply to expose you to things you may think you wouldn't like prior to sniffing. I found that at first I went for the 'easier' scents to wear - the ones that immediately pleased the nose like Santana, Body Kouros, Passion for Men.. all scents that were rather gourmandish and had a fair bit of vanilla or something similar. They weren't really 'me' though - at least not the everyday me, and while I enjoyed them all in various ways, there was a bit of a clash between my personality and my scents and I found myself moving back towards scents that I weren't as ostensibly pleasing to the nose, but ended up fitting me much better and that I now find have more depth and are actually far more enjoyable than the scents I started with.

    Of course, it is quite possible you won't go down the wrong road first, as I have, or even if you do, like me, you may think it is the right road. Only time will tell. I just think it's a good idea to expose yourself to some of the weirder or less conventional scents, as at least you'll know that other road exists and have an idea of where it heads. Which path you take will then be a more informed decision.

    And the 'iron' smell in L'Anarchiste is definitely an abstract interpretation - the real smell of iron, like say after doing some bench presses, is rather revolting (actually, it's not the smell of iron at all but the smell of iron chemicals interacting with the skin).
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 26th August 2008 at 05:46 AM.
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  6. #6

    Default Re: Branching out...

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    A lot of my suggestions were simply to expose you to things you may think you wouldn't like prior to sniffing. I found that at first I went for the 'easier' scents to wear - the ones that immediately pleased the nose like Santana, Body Kouros, Passion for Men.. all scents that were rather gourmandish and had a fair bit of vanilla or something similar. They weren't really 'me' though - at least not the everyday me, and while I enjoyed them all in various ways, there was a bit of a clash between my personality and my scents and I found myself moving back towards scents that I weren't as ostensibly pleasing to the nose, but ended up fitting me much better and that I now find have more depth and are actually far more enjoyable than the scents I started with.

    Of course, it is quite possible you won't go down the wrong road first, as I have, or even if you do, like me, you may think it is the right road. Only time will tell. I just think it's a good idea to expose yourself to some of the weirder or less conventional scents, as at least you'll know that other road exists and have an idea of where it heads. Which path you take will then be a more informed decision.

    And the 'iron' smell in L'Anarchiste is definitely an abstract interpretation - the real smell of iron, like say after doing some bench presses, is rather revolting (actually, it's not the smell of iron at all but the smell of iron chemicals interacting with the skin).
    I think I know what you're talking about; there's a few things I smelled that, while I really liked to smell, just wouldn't fit me at all.
    The weird thing is, I'm finding certian people think differently about how I should smell. My girlfriend, for example, absolutely loves Beyond Paradise, by Lauder. I like it (quite a bit, really,) but not as much as she does. At the same time, she hates things like L'homme and vetivers. I was impressed though, she was able to pick out the notes in BP, saying she liked it for the woodiness and forrest-ness... Interesting to me, because I don't consider it a woodsy smell at all. The notes are there, though.


    I actually agree, I kinda like smelling things I 'shouldn't' like though. Most of the time, I end up not liking them, but even then, I'm able to say, "Ah, I don't like the smell of a tobacco note..." which helps. Even in L'homme, I 'shouldn't" like the Tonka and violet, but I think those are what I love the most.


    Good to know it doesn't smell LIKE iron though... I know the 'benchpress' smell you're thinking of, and that's what I was associating it with. I've seen it for sale, so I'll be sure to try that too...


    One other random question: is Lanvin L'homme one I should put on my sample list? (I have to order samples for a lot of the ones recc'd to me, only a Macy's here, really.)

  7. #7
    Off-Scenter
    Guest

    Default Re: Branching out...

    Given the interests and preferences you've revealed so far, I'd suggest trying some of the less sweet woody, green, and fougere scents. These may share some of the elements you enjoy in the aquatics, while extending your wardrobe into new territory. If Terre d'Hermes is a little too tame and understated for you, give Declaration and/or Declaration Essence a try. THey're by hte same perfumer (Jean-Claude Ellena) as the Hermes, but I think they've got a little bit more edge to them. Grey Flannel is an excellent suggestion, to which I'd add Azzaro pour Homme, Jazz, Tuscany, and Fuel for Life.

    I also have to concur with SculptureOfSoul on L'Anarchiste, and recommend in addition the same house's Caron pour un Homme. It's a very different sort of scent - bracing lavender with a vanillic base - but it's very easy to wear, versatile, and beautifully put together. Green fragrances like Devin or Comme des Garcons Calamus will give you the celan sensation you enjoy in the aquatics, but they get there by a very different route. It doesn't sound like vetiver is your thing, but you could try a woody rose scent like Rive Gauche pour Homme. It would be suitably dry, but project a very different character than the rest of your collection to date. All of these are relatively easy to find and affordable, but I think they also more distinguished than much of what's on the shelves today.

    Have fun testing!
    Last edited by Off-Scenter; 26th August 2008 at 02:31 PM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Branching out...

    May I suggest to you L'Eau d'Hiver? It is a J-C Ellena-created scent in the Frederic Malle line. It is certainly clean and fresh.

  9. #9
    Dependent

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Singapore
    Posts
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    Default Re: Branching out...

    Justin,

    you may want to give loewe solo, bvlgari Extreme(the freshest of the darjeeling tea range). Its easily likable . the original and the soir are less citrus. And what is a fresh genre without LDIssey - a scent that for the past decade have not seen any imitators. the scent its citrus floral, very zen-esque, the bottle design, the scent, the label work perfect together. and Issey frag dept hvae been living off the sucess of LDIssey Ph with flakers making very little impact. the price has alwaays been on the rise. unlike some popular classics like eternity, coolwater, XS, have lowered their prices(where im from at least) The summer 08 version is retailed lower than the classic(then again most summer spawns usually are cheaper, with tthe exception of fahrenheit, ck one summer, ck eternity summer) . the only scent that drew slightl similarity is clinique happy, but Issey is still very much unique.

    correct me if im wrong(naive to lanvin frags) , but i dont see maybe a sort of classic scent like Eau Sauvage? if ES is a little heavy, gucci envy is like a water down version of ES(been wearing ES since my teenage years). Its distintively yester era smelling, but very classy imo, and not over-powering or leathery)

    As mentioned by Vibert, tuscany is good. in fact i use 3 aramis frags - tuscany, 900, and the original aramis, the label may be a little old but the scents are great. the balance of floral,wood and musk is often messed up by other labels, but from my own use, aramis got it well calculated. very much affordable too. nice classic non-gimmicky, not overly fashioned, great for office and dates.



    btw, great collection

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