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  1. #1
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    Default New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    '...In-house perfumer Jean Claude Ellena, responsible for the house's latest, the sleeper classic Kelly Calèche and the controversial Un Jardin après la Mousson, is now focusing on vanilla...'

    Helg at The Perfume Shrine gets the scoop - link here

  2. #2

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    I love the disclaimer at the end, stating that Galante more than likely refers to the island rather than the author's tortured, Baroque concept. Thanks for sharing this Mike. Great writing.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 24th August 2008 at 05:37 PM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    This what the author wrote when talking about Ellena and Vanilla:

    "Perhaps he will surprise us with a zen approach."

    Sh*t, you think ?
    -

  4. #4
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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    This what the author wrote when talking about Ellena and Vanilla:

    "Perhaps he will surprise us with a zen approach."

    Sh*t, you think ?
    I was kind of thinking the same thing. But, remember, JCE also created Kelly Caleche recently and Parfum des Merveilles - and both of those are not subtle.

    If it is a 'minimal' vanilla, I suspect it can't be as good as Vanille 44 by Le Labo. Maybe just cheaper?

  5. #5

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Mike, I accidentally posted this news as well yesterday... I'm totally sorry, I had no idea someone had posted this... I scrolled through 2 pages but I guess I missed it... At any rate, I'm excited to smell it, just hate having to wait so long! See ya around

  6. #6
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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Quote Originally Posted by nthny View Post
    Mike, I accidentally posted this news as well yesterday... I'm totally sorry, I had no idea someone had posted this... I scrolled through 2 pages but I guess I missed it... At any rate, I'm excited to smell it, just hate having to wait so long! See ya around
    No problem nthny - excitement is contagious!!

  7. #7

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Thanks for the info....this sounds great....Gary

  8. #8

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Thanks for the link, Mike, but that article is time-wasting speculation - the facts could have been summed up in two or three short sentences (and any relevant background information could have been saved for a later date, when someone has a better idea of what the scent actually is).

    Like everyone else here, I really love perfumes but I'm getting pretty sick and tired of houses, blogs and forums attempting to get me jerking off the release of a new perfume release. Until I've smelt it, most of what's written mean jack s**t to me. For God's sake, I've got more worthwhile things to think about (especially given the current state of the perfume industry)...

    I... AM... NOT... A... MUG... OKAY? [for all employees of the perfume industry, who are reading this thread]

    Now, going back to Vanille Galante:

    Jean Claude Ellena - transparent... Ambre Narguilé - hurts my teeth... sillage - transparent... depth - transparent... longevity - transparent... oh, bugger this and get me a bottle of Spiritueuse Double Vanille instead...
    Last edited by Trebor; 26th August 2008 at 03:46 PM.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Got my bottle today (a 15 ml travel spray). Bought it blind - which I almost never do, except when it comes to JC Ellena and CdG scents.

    I'll post a review after I've had a chance to give it a couple wearings. I'm excited!

    If any of you want a rather lengthy (2 part) review of the scent, The Scented Salamander reviewed Vanille Galante here and here.

  10. #10

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Look forward to your words on this one Mike. Im hoping I might find it in the Hermés boutique when I visit Copenhagen later this month *crosses fingers*

  11. #11
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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    I certainly like the sound of this:

    "To this scent that one can characterizes as being lazy and repetitive, which constitutes its strength for some, I wanted to respond with an invitation to discover a different kind of vanilla, unusual, complex and paradoxical, like a fragile plant after a long winter, about which one hopes it will bloom again, in an even more unpredictable way."
    And even more this:

    Vanille Galante is an unexpected Jean-Claude Ellena: fleshy rather than transparent, more carnal than usual, while maintaining the intellectual framework of the art study. It is more tropical and heavy rather than Mediterranean and fresh. It nevertheless maintains and reaffirms the author's credo in light textures by making lightness subversive of the classic scent of vanilla.

    The perfume is structured more like a braid, one strand of scent coming to the fore while another one receding then coming back. The sensations weave in and out.

    Finally, Vanille Galante is an extremely playful composition, one that seems to love to play with air, perhaps a symbol of Cupid darting its scent-arrows left and right, up and down, in the hope of provoking mischief and matchmaking.
    But I eagerly await Mike's review, since his nose is more predictive of mine.
    * * * *

  12. #12

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Im very curious to read Mikes review also , being a lover of vanilla myself . However read somewhere its a very artificial banana scent .

    Beautiful leather bound bottle tho , is this standard issue or a special edition ?

  13. #13

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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Mike - was Hermes selling individual 15ml travel sprays? Last time I was at a Hermes boutique, you had to buy a 4-pack. The SA told me then that so many people wanted individual ones or to mix and match the set of four (which they only allowed with the original 4) that they might start selling individuals.

    If they've started selling individual sprays it may be worth a 160 miles round trip to the closest Hermes store today.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Thanks guys. Once my cold clears up completely I'll tackle a wearing and a review.

    Pour_Monsieur - all of the Hermessences can be bought with those leather cases, or without. Classy, aren't they? They're outrageously expensive, though. But the VG one, in white, looks very chic.

    bbBD - No I didn't buy my single 15 ml travel spray from a Hermes boutique - got mine from someone selling it separately.

  15. #15

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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    $205/100ml last time I checked... has it gone up?

  16. #16

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Hi bbBD,

    When I got the chance to test this last week the price for the Hemessences had increased from £100 to £125. This might be due to the weak pound but nothing would surprise me if they were more expensive in the USA as well.

    While it is a really good fragrance, it may be a discovery set purchase, I find it hard to justify £125 on it's purchase.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    The Hermessence bottles, themselves, are $230.

    The leather slipcases are $350 (fragrance not included).

  18. #18

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Thanks Mike , thats expensive for the case but I guess for Hermes thats almost reasonable LOL !!!

    The packaging is just as an important facet IMO

  19. #19

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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Wow... up $25 in 5 months. I wonder how much the 4-pack of travel sprays is now? When I bought my 4-pack (Vetiver, Ambre, Poivre, Rose) is was $135...($34/each) I'll bet it's up to $150-160 now.

    With the price increase I feel less bad about picking up my own 15ml bottle of Vanille Galante on eBay for $51. I had just enough remaining on an eBay gift certificate left to cover the purchase, otherwise I don't know if I'd have bought it. There are four more on eBay, all from the same seller.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Quote Originally Posted by Pour_Monsieur View Post
    Thanks Mike , thats expensive for the case but I guess for Hermes thats almost reasonable LOL !!!
    It's a steal in comparison to the $750 leather dog leash I saw in the store last time I visited. In pink.

  21. #21

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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    LOL... Hermes doesn't F-around. Sometimes we forget that even though a fragrance by a 'designer' may not be top-shelf in our world, those same houses are top-shelf in their own world. I happen to like Hermes' stuff the best of all the designers, but shirts are $600+, shoes $850+, and belts start around $400. I almost bought my wife a leather Hermes bracelet until I realized I could get much, much more at Tiffanys for the same price.

  22. #22

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    I can't wait to smell VG and to read master Mike's review.
    As a side note, I just tried L'Artisan's Vanilia and can't believe that I've passed it over all these years.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 8th February 2009 at 03:42 AM.

  23. #23

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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    L'Artisan Vanilia is one of the more unique vanillas, and one of my favorites. It's so sweet I get a toothache smelling it. If you like Vanilia, try Chia by Farmacia SS Anunziata.

    On the topic of vanillas - and maybe another vanilla fan like myself can chime in - does anyone find themselves getting..well... bored with vanillas? Even though I know it's something of an 'easy' note, I've always enjoyed different vanilla variations, and I've got all manner of vanilla samples, decants, and a few bottles.

    Lately though I've actually felt like I have 'enough' vanillas and they don't interest me they way they did. Unless there's something unique about the take on vanilla (as I'm hoping there will be with Hermes' only vanilla) it just doesn't excite me. For example, I really enjoyed sampling Profumum Vanitas and PG Felanilla, but when I thought about getting decants I thought 'eh... why?'

    Am I just getting bored with a phase in my 'learning' or is this something endemic to vanilla fragrances?

  24. #24

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Vanilla is perhaps my favorite note. I can't get enough of it! I haven't sampled much, but from what I have sampled, Tobacco Vanille has my favorite rendition of vanilla specifically in the dry down after the tobacco note has faded quite a bit. It is a creamy vanilla mixed with cocoa and cinnamon. Reminds of a hot chocolate with marshmallows or cream with a dash of cinnamon sprinkled over it. Heavenly. I look forward though to exploring vanilla more thoroughly. I've got samples of Un Bois Vanille and Double Vanille ordered. Can't wait.
    Once Upon A Time In Nazi Occupied France...A Basterd's Work is Never Done ~ Inglourious Basterds

  25. #25

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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    If you like TV, chances are you'll like SDV, which I find to be THE vanilla fragrance (not everyone agrees, but many do). I strongly suggest over-applying SDV and just allowing the aroma to envelope you.

  26. #26

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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Well, my Vanille Galante 15ml bottle arrived today.

    I obviously haven't had time to give it a proper analysis, so these are initial impressions....

    VG is, as you could guess, very Ellena-esque. Light and transparent yet loaded with subtlety. Along with vanilla, there is an equally prominent fruit note ('tropical' as another BNer put it) - which I believe to be apricot. Relevant to testing VG this morning is one of those fortunate accidents.

    If you've ever tried Profumum Dulcis et Fundo, you know it's very, very strong. This morning while fumbling through my decants, the cap of my Dulcis decant fell off. I picked it up, getting a tiny but of perfume on my finger which I then dabbed across the back of my hand. The Dulcis is so powerful that I can still smell it distinctly, 6 hours after applying a tiny-winy bit. Why do I mention this? When the VG arrived I sprayed it on the opposite hand from the Dulcis. 30 minutes later... I had trouble remembering which hand had which fragrance on it. I did remember, and I can tell the difference, but my point being is that the two are similar to each other.

    Obviously the VG isn't nearly as thick or strong as Dulcis, but the same vanilla/apricot/amber structure is there. I realize Dulcis is among the more obscure of Profumums, but if anyone knows this fragrance and then tried VG, I'd really like to know your thoughts on whether you think they are similar.

    It's only been an hour since the VG arrived. I more complete review will follow, and if the BN database is updated to reflect its release, I will provide a review on it's BN database page.

  27. #27

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    The apricots and amber accords wrapping around the vanilla sound very promising, bbBD. I really look forward to your complete review. Where would you place it on the gender scale?

  28. #28

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    I tried this on Saturday. This is actually a very beautiful scent - some velvety white florals and dried apricot accords (much like those that emerge in CN21, albeit their not actually being there) flutter over the very dewy vanilla.
    This is one that has the potential to be a hit, though, to my nose its almost like the vanilla itself takes a back seat. IMO, it sits just left of center on the Feminine to Masculine scale.
    Last edited by Sorcery of Scent; 23rd February 2009 at 10:53 AM.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    The Hermessence bottles, themselves, are $230.
    As of last Friday at the Hermes Boutique in Virginia , the bottles sold for $235. I bought Vanille Galante 100ml for $235. Maybe in different states they're different prices.

  30. #30

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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Quote Originally Posted by Trufflehunter
    The apricots and amber accords wrapping around the vanilla sound very promising, bbBD. I really look forward to your complete review. Where would you place it on the gender scale?
    I'm sorry I never saw this post earlier. My own gender scale is slanted - not much is unwearably feminine to me. Objectively, VG is on the slightly feminine side of unisex. Regardless, it's nice enough of a fragrance that it shouldn't matter to those who like fragrances... your average guy going into a Hermes boutique may not agree. But then again, average guys don't go into Hermes boutiques.

  31. #31
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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    So - I've gotten the opportunity to wear Vanille Galante several times since I bought it a month ago and I thought I'd post my thoughts on it.

    The top notes remind me (as soon as I spray the nozzle) of ripe mango. We had a mango tree growing up in my backyard and I ate mangoes my whole life. There's a certain scent I get from holding a mango (with some of the peel still on) up to my mouth and biting into it that's replicated for a few seconds in VG. Odd - because of course, who expects to encounter this in a vanilla fragrance!?

    What immediately followed was the aforementioned 'banana condom' accord. Of course it doesn't smell like banana or like condoms. But banana flavored candies give off a sharp, distinct (almost flowery) aroma (LifeSavers, for instance) and the VG floral element gives off this same aura. I am almost certain it is the ylang ylang. I personally have a problem enjoying this flower - in many scents it smells like woman's cold cream or face cream. The floral element of VG is creamy and very tropical. It reminds me of what a thick, heavy scented tanning sunblock cream might smell like.

    The light aquatic (water) note in the middle is spicy (spiced water?) and it's hard to shake the resemblance to Un Jardin Apres la Mousson. Imagine the top notes of UJALM with all of the melon removed. That's what the aquatic note in VG smells like.

    The vanilla? It's there, but it's been stripped of everything sweet and gourmand-y about it and all you can really smell is a very faint wisp of it that weaves in and out of the previously mentioned florals. The hide-and-seek vanilla is very seductive - it doesn't overpower the scent and it also allows VG to smell unlike any other scent I've ever experienced before. It's this distinctive quality that had me wearing VG many times, to wrap my head around it.

    The verdict: I don't like it. I respect the artistry and achievement that Ellena strove for in creating VG. I also think it's wonderfully refreshing to smell a tropical floral scent, that is so different. But I feel incredibly uncomfortable wearing it.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 27th February 2009 at 09:58 PM.

  32. #32

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    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Thanks for the thoughtful review, mp.... I've been doing the same thing by getting to know VG before issuing my verdict and posting a review, which will be coming soon. I don't reach quite the same conclusion, but nor am I overwhelmingly pleased with it, either - but for entirely different reasons. I end up liking it, but not enough to want to buy a bottle or even replenish my 15ml when it's done.

    I will discuss this in my review, but this may be one of those oddball cases where a fragrance is hampered by it's name. There is an expectation with the word 'vanilla' in the title that is unfulfilled, and I predict people will not be as patient as MP in getting to know the fragrance before trashing it for not competing with SDV and the like. Hermes would have been better off giving it a floral-related title.

  33. #33

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    The verdict: I don't like it.
    That was better than an episode of Judge Judy. I trust your fine nose, but I've still got to smell this strange sounding, vanilla junk.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 28th February 2009 at 01:53 AM.

  34. #34

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    I tried this - it's one of the most beautiful fragrances I have tried so far. A bit expensive here in Sweden (1900 SEK = $262). I really have to get this when I can afford it...

  35. #35

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    amazing how vanilla scents are so popular again...bring back vanilla fields..haha!

  36. #36

    Default Re: New Hermessence: Vanille Galante

    I work within blocks of an Hermes boutique and walk by it at least several times a week. I've encountered a couple of customers exiting the store who had obviously sprayed on some Vanille Galante while inside. I think it smells fantastic, but my observation has been that the lily/ylang note is way more prominent (in passer-by sillage anyway) than the vanilla presence. Maybe the vanilla makes itself known way later in the heart note. Btw, I think the floral nature of the notes are not too femme for a male wearer - if you're a guy who can entertain the thought of wearing Carnal Flower or Velvet Gardenia, this should be a cinch for you.

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