maybe next time...nice review. thnx!
Opens with a strong dose of pepper. Shortly thereafter it smells similar to the way L'Antimatiere smells on skin after a few hours, although a bit less "fuzzy" and a bit more natural. Something akin to the Creed Ambergris drydown without being nearly as sweet. Although not listed, it smells strong of labdanum to me. There's also a green resinous note that is nicely woven into the mix, no duobt the galbanum.
10 minutes in and galbanum has faded to the background as a very nice and round, non-gritty nutmeg (smoother and rounder than the nutmeg in Visit) has moved into the forefront alongside a frankincense and labdanum note. It is actually the labdanum, I believe, that is rounding off the nutmeg and frankincense and lending it the ambergris-esque quality. Projection is minimal after only a few minutes. On my arms, from 15 minutes on or so the labdanum note seems stronger while on my chest the frankincense reigns supreme. After a while the nutmeg completely dominates on my skin and it becomes a unidimensional, if fairly pleasant, nutmeg frag (well, it is still tinged with a hint of frankincense, and while the accord smells good, it's not particularly interesting since it hasn't evolved for hours now).
Objectively I'd give this frag a sideways thumb - but factoring in the price and the house, I'd give it a thumbs down. I wish this worked on me. On me any Yatagan similarities are gone within 30 minutes, sadly, as the resinous notes and labdanum fade out. After this point, it is very very dry. Imagine the aforementioned Azzaro Visit minus any of the sweet notes and more natural smelling (although less sillage.) Longevity is good if heavily applied (8 hours or so).
I wish it worked on me like it did for you. My skin has been just obliterating frags lately though, or maybe my sense of smell is a bit off because of some relationship related depression? I don't know, but very few things are working for me as of late, sadly. Hopefully I've not just gotten too picky. I'll sample it again down the road and hopefully find the magic within.. it's a Bourdon frag, I'm sure there's more there than I picked up today.
That's interesting because I was just about to post a review of this same scent, I'm working through my perfumedcourt samples.
On my skin, this is an incense monster, pure and simple. The pimento dominates the opening and stays strong for an hour or so, then I get dry woods with incense and amber for about two hours, and for the final six hours it's almost pure frankincense. Which is good for me, because I really dislike nutmeg in most fragrances unless it's waaaaay in the background!
Projection is low which is fine, I don't really want to smell like incense from 10 yards away. Longevity is good for me, if I get 8 hours out of something that's fine to me, because that's how long I'm at work. I'd give it a 7.5/10, seems like it will do great in the cold. I'll never buy a full bottle, but I might want a bigger decant in the future.
Interesting- I got something completely different: a woody incense with a fair bit of vetiver.
Well, the nutmeg comes across incensey to me, thanks to the 'shading' with the frankincense.. I mean, it totally has an incense vibe but yet I still think that it's a dry nutmeg that I'm smelling with frankincense interwoven and not the other way around.
Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 28th August 2008 at 03:34 PM. Reason: spelling
Thanks for the review SoS. It's been a while since I wore French Lover (a very generous Basenoter gifted me a decant of it, when it came out). I see in your comments you made absolutely no mention of the angelica note in FL, which is extremely prominent to my nose at the very top notes all the way through to the middle notes. It's a large, pungent dose of angelica. Perhaps that's the 'peppery note you're describing?
I'm rather disappointed to say I'm not familiar with Angelica as a note and hence why I didn't mention it . Is that the pepper note? Is it also a bit creamy/woody.. I'm thinking it may be the note in there that I was thinking was labdanum? Hmm...
Yup, I give it a neutral rating too. Interesting but too vegetable,if that makes sense, for me.
"I exist for myself, and for those to whom my unquenchable thirst for freedom gives everything, but also for everyone, since insofar as I am able to love - I love everyone. Of noble hearts, I am the noblest - and the most generous of those that yearn to give love in return. - I am a human being, I love death and I love life."
Egon Schiele - Self-Potrait
My classics: Dior Homme EdT, YSL Rive Gauche PH, Helmut Lang Cuiron, L'Occitane Neroli (vintage), Davidoff Zino, L'Occitane Eau des Baux