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  1. #1

    Default Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Summer will soon be coming to an end, and for me, that means I'll be wearing more orientals--something about spicy scents in colder weather.

    I love Opium PH, Habit Rouge, Czech and Speake 88.......and Pi, on occasion. But they're all fairly sweet....I'm wondering what others think about "less sweet" orientals. Any comments or recommendations? What about, say, Equipage? Egoiste? Haven't sampled those in a while...
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  2. #2
    mrclmind's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Have you tried New York, by Parfums de Nicolai?

    Egoiste is another excellent choice.

    Equipage is more of a floral chypre but I love it. You may want to test it to see if it's in the family you are seeking.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    (I vote for Habit Rouge Eau de Cologne. Not sweet to me - compared to the Eau de Toilette.)

    Noir Épices (Frédéric Malle)
    Hammam Bouquet (Penhaligon's)
    M7 (Yves Saint Laurent)
    Last edited by DesGrieux; 1st September 2008 at 07:26 PM.

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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Armani Code.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Quote Originally Posted by DesGrieux View Post
    (I vote for Habit Rouge Eau de Cologne. Not sweet to me - compared to the Eau de Toilette.)
    I was just about to say that. The sweetness in the EdC is not a big vanilla bomb, but rather something akin to a touch of corn syrup. After being a bit offput by the EdT, I was surprised to see how much I liked the EdC.

    I also would suggest Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree. I don't know exactly what it would be classified as, but it strikes me as somewhat oriental. The sweetness is almost like a cotton candy type of note, yet it's one of the classiest scents I have, and it's completely refined.

    Also, Creed Baie de Genievre is built on juniper berry, cinnamon leaf, and vetiver. It's got some sweetness but it's kept in check by a dry, eugenol heat. Usually scents that are warm have the potential to become too sweet, but this one doesn't--much the same way that the spicy Opium PH EdT stays dry. Try also Jaisalmer from Comme des Garçons Incense series.

  6. #6
    genvy5's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    How about Chypre Rouge or Gris Clair?

  7. #7

    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Habit Rouge EDC is an excellent choice IMO.

    I found both Egoiste & M7 very sweet, M7 being sirupy sweet to my nose.

    Bois du Portugal, Gucci PH (2003) or Dunhill Edition come to mind as nice orientals.. not overly sweet..

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    great suggestions already made! PDN New York was the scent that immediately came to mind....Hammam Bouquet is a wonderful scent too..love the drydown of this one..it's tooo good....Carthusia Numero Uno..it's kinda similar to PDN New York (the herbal note, Thyme?)...Dior Dune...
    Last edited by jenson; 1st September 2008 at 08:18 PM.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Quote Originally Posted by genvy5 View Post
    How about Chypre Rouge or Gris Clair?
    lovely suggestion..especially Gris Clair..

  10. #10

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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    I personally find PDN New York to be on the sweeter side.

    I suggest L'Artisan Mechant Loup.


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Quote Originally Posted by phibess View Post
    [...] M7 being sirupy sweet to my nose. [...] Bois du Portugal [...] come[s] to mind as nice oriental [...] not overly sweet..
    Wow! M7, to me, is almost bitter. And I'd never even considered Bois du Portugal being an oriental. Have to rethink this.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Vol de Nuit (yes, it's a woman's fragrance...so what!) and Habit Rouge EdC by Guerlain are both excellent not-too-sweet orientals.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    DoN`t use D&G "The One"... It smells like a fruite-table!

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    I agree on Gris Clair (Serge Lutens). I aGris!

    Just want to mention Musc Ravageur (Frédéric Malle) - an oriental that I don't perceive as sweet.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Quote Originally Posted by DesGrieux View Post
    Wow! M7, to me, is almost bitter. And I'd never even considered Bois du Portugal being an oriental. Have to rethink this.
    I think I know what bitter note you're referring to, I wish my nose could pick up more of it rather than the thick sweetness. Hmm,.. BdP always smelled like a woody oriental to me.

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  16. #16
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Quote Originally Posted by DesGrieux View Post
    I aGris!
    LOL. You're my new best friend.

    Gotta second the Mechant Loup.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Orientals tend to have sweet foundations by nature, but some are less sweet than others. Incense rich orientals like Avignon and Lorenzo Villoresi's Incensi can come off as quite dry, and I'd recommend these as a productive anvue for sampling.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    I like how Carven Homme never becomes too sweet. Witness is not sweet (to me, at least).

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    An oriental that is sweet but not too sweet is Ambre 114 by Histoires de Parfums.
    Seek not the favor of the multitude; it is seldom got by honest and lawful means. But seek the testimony of few; and number not voices, but weigh them. - Immanuel Kant

  20. #20
    Shaheen's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Polo Double Black! One of my favorites of all time.

    If you haven't tried it yet, it's a peppery and creamy oriental, and not very sweet at all. Kinda spicy, especially in the opening spray. Very versatile and IMO suitable for most, if not all, occasions. I definitely recommend that one.
    Last edited by Shaheen; 2nd September 2008 at 01:24 PM.

  21. #21
    KMF's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Quote Originally Posted by Shaheen View Post
    Polo Double Black! One of my favorites of all time.
    It isn't one of my favorites, but it's definitely relevant to this thread....

  22. #22
    Bossa Nova's Avatar
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Pasha de Cartier
    Snarky is as snarky does.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Kouros

  24. #24


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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Serge Lutens, Oriental Vetiver, really nice scent with alot of oriental that replaces, IMO, the sweetness with vetiver. Tried this this weekend in Vegas and got a few compliments. Also this is a little more "nichey" so you won't smell like the guy at the club wearing Armani, Code or Polo, Double Black.
    Last edited by TheAttorney; 2nd September 2008 at 04:57 PM.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Yes, SL Vetiver Oriental! Not at all sweet, but very pricey.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Lagerfeld KL Homme isn't your typical (sweet) oriental.
    Are you not entertained??? Is this not why you are here??

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    "Double Black" is the best recommendation.
    " Human beings are members of a whole,
    In creation of one essence and soul.

    If one member is afflicted with pain,
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Vetiver 46 - Le Labo

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    L'Air du Desert Marocain

    It does have a little sweetness, but not until well into the dry down... Even then it's still quite manageable, imo...

  30. #30

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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Attar by Montale
    Aoud Lime by Montale
    Last edited by narcus; 6th September 2008 at 05:32 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    L'Instant de Guerlain and Viktor&Rolf Antidote are amongst my favorite "less sweet" orientals. Michael Kors is also pretty good. Depending on how you define "not-too-sweet," Escada PH may be nice too.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Halston Catalyst. I second Witness and Escada as well.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    I tried Polo Double Black at the Ralph Lauren Outlet store this past weekend...it smells, remarkably, like Opium PH to me...though, yes, it's a bit more "dry."

    Nice enough.

    Habit Rouge is a great suggestion, and one I will certainly wear....I have to get a new bottle though!
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  34. #34

    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Muscs Koublai Khan (less sweet than Musc Ravageur and more interesting)
    Miel de Bois

  35. #35

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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Tiffany for Men is on the line between oriental and chyrpe, and it absolutely fantastic with no sweetness at all.

  36. #36
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Gucci Pour Homme 2 is an excellent Oriental IMO and it doesn't get cloying in the summer heat.

  37. #37
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    I agree with M7. Also, what about Obsession? I don't seem to remember it being sweet.
    Don't Smell the Flowers,
    They're an Evil Drug to Make You Lose Your Mind --- Dio

  38. #38
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    I'd recommend Anvers (original)... and would second the Tiffany for Men and Pasha de Cartier suggestions. Happy hunting...

  39. #39
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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Quote Originally Posted by rompip View Post
    Kouros

    Not to split hairs, but isn't Kouros in the fougere or chypre category?

    Sorry, I'm just sayin'.........


  40. #40

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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Quote Originally Posted by phibess View Post
    Habit Rouge EDC is an excellent choice IMO.

    I found both Egoiste & M7 very sweet, M7 being sirupy sweet to my nose.

    Bois du Portugal, Gucci PH (2003) or Dunhill Edition come to mind as nice orientals.. not overly sweet..
    I didn't know that Gucci PH (2003) would be conciderd oriental !!!!

    Witness by Bougart
    Escada PH
    Habit Rouge EDC
    Aramis 900
    Lalique PH (lion )

  41. #41

    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    Would M7 fresh and Habit Rouge Legere still qualify for this? I haven't tried them yet and that's why I want to know.
    Immediate Wishlist: CDG Palisander/Avignon

  42. #42

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    Default Re: Not-too-sweet orientals?

    I'm glad to see Double Black getting some love here. Despite the funny name, this is a well made and non-trivial scent.
    I know that Givenchy Gentleman more closely fits the profile of a chypre but I want to suggest it as a possibility anyway. To me the tarragon/cinnamon, and patchouli/rosewood accords give this one a spicy and dense quality that seems oriental in spirit. The effect seems something like Vetiver Oriental where densely rendered vetiver is made to read as a spice.

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