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  1. #1

    Smile Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    I could not help but be compelled to write about Van Cleef & Arpel the first jeweler to create the idea of marketing a fragrance - laying the foundation for the such as Cartier, Boucheron, and others.

    First and Pour Homme are rich fragrances in that they have depth and sophistication you can tell the quality or should I say could? This was a company that did not launch scents after scent or over advertised either. In 1989 - fourteen years from their first men's fragrance came Tsar - a very deep rich rustic chypre not an aqua/citrus that were starting the fad of the time. This was scent that you would never dare wear in a t-shirt and jeans.

    All changed because of unstable 90's and the fragrance market becoming more about how many scent you could get to the sales floor before the end of year - VCA was doomed!

    The fragrance division through acquisitions fell into the hands of the new Gucci Group's YSL Beaute at the time. The YSL tried to take what was a Rolls and turn it into a Porsche or a money maker. The tinkering started with Tsar getting a wear bottle design and the fragrance being made lighter/fresher - Pour Homme being banished to a very few store for it was not trendy.

    Then came the roll out of scents that had no thought of the brand behind it with dumb names and bad quality...Murmer - Zanabar-Tsar Eau de Cologne....ugh. Stuff that just fell into the gray market as soon as it was launched.

    It seemed that the final chapter in this story would be the phasing out of the brand. But all was not lost -

    The fragrance rights were taken over by Inter Parfums and the work started to bring the scent back to where it once was. Only the meat and potatoes of the brand were kept. First and Van Cleef for women and Pour Homme and Tsar for men. All the other weird crap from YSL era was cut.

    Tsar was returned back to its art deco bottle that was the hallmark of VCA men's line. The quality of the bottles and boxes were updated keeping to the quality of its golden days. I recently purchased a bottle of Tsar and found it much more enjoyable then it was from three years ago. The richness and longevity is back. When I sprayed the scent I was instantly brought back to Jordan Marsh fragrance department in 1989 - though some may feel this scent is dated and strong it is a perfect autumn day scent.

    A new website was also created which is worthy of the brand which you have time check it out: http://www.vca-parfums.com/en/

  2. #2

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Thank you for this very informative post - I will definitely seek out a sample of the new Tsar!
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  3. #3
    smeller
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    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    So, does it mean the original Van Cleef & Arpels pour homme formulation is back? For sure?

  4. #4

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Nice post...I m a fan of VC and A products.
    "Burn their homes and churches.Then see if they will not laugh, sing and pray again.
    For when two of them meet anywhere in the world, see if they will not create a new Armenia."

    William Saroyan.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Using: Antaeus, The Dreamer, Eau Sauvage and Voyage d Hermes

    Wishing: Tuscan Soul by Ferragamo and Concentré d Orange Verte




    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  5. #5

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Damn bought 3 bottles of vintage VC&A a few months ago. I'm really excited about Tsar. Have to try it out. Heard that it used to be much more powerful
    Last edited by InconcievableZen; 7th September 2008 at 02:29 PM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    awesome info! I'll never be without a bottle and a backup of VC&A PH.

    Scentimus, do you think that the new company reformulated (de-formulated?) Tsar back to its original specifications? I've only sniffed this fleetingly, and it must have been the new juice as I remember recoiling in horror.

  7. #7
    smeller
    Guest

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    It's possibly the best perfume-related news of the year to me, but in practical terms, how to identify the new (restored) bottle/box?

  8. #8

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Look at the site on the bottom of the Topic starter's post. Those are the new bottles. They're somewhat diffirent than the vintage editons. Very small diffirence. The reformulated editions from 90's were very diffirent.
    Last edited by InconcievableZen; 7th September 2008 at 05:53 PM.

  9. #9
    smeller
    Guest

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Ok, sorry to go into details, but I (we) need the right juice, so let's see if this is correct:

    1) New (restored) version:

    Box (black, with some shaded pattern, letters in gold):

    Pour Homme
    Van Cleef & Arpels

    Bottle (black, opaque, with golden "collar", letters in gold):

    Pour Homme
    Van Cleef& Arpels

    2) Previous (the last one before the restored) version:

    Box (black, emblem on top with letters VC A, letters in white):

    Pour Homme
    Van Cleef & Arpels

    Bottle:

    Van Cleef & Arpels
    Eau de Toilette

    Did I miss something?

    P.S.: my bottle is a bit different (don't know how old it is): it has a square golden line in the box around the text, and the bottle says:

    Van Cleef & Arpels
    pour homme

    and smells very good to me.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory


  11. #11

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Thanks for this, scentimus. I have always wanted to "explore" Van Cleef&Arpels but was put off by the reformulation debate. Now there's new hope!

  12. #12
    smeller
    Guest

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Sorry for asking more and more questions, but did someone actually smelled the restored version? If so, is it the real thing?

    Scentimus said he sprayed Tsar, but what about VC&A?

  13. #13

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Wow Scentimus, This is real good news! I loved Pour Homme in the 80's and refused to buy the crap that was passed off as the original for the last decade or so. I can't wait to smell this and I'm thrilled that they offer it in a 30ml bottle, as a little used to go a long way.
    Thanks for your post.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 8th September 2008 at 12:19 AM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Quote Originally Posted by smeller View Post
    Sorry for asking more and more questions, but did someone actually smelled the restored version? If so, is it the real thing?

    Scentimus said he sprayed Tsar, but what about VC&A?
    Recently, I bought a new bottle of VC&A p.H. and it´s fantastic. I used to wear it in the 80ies (along with Antaeus), rediscovered it a short while ago and can´t detect a difference. It still smells great!

  15. #15

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    I've got the pure black box with black bottle, golden collar and it smells the same as what I recollect from back in the 80s.

    The transparent green ribbed bottle of Tsar also smells and projects the same as what I remember from the 80s.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    I remember reading that an EDP version of Tsar was making its way to market. Has anyone seen this?
    Choose to believe, choose joy.
    Scelga di credere, scelga la gioia.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    No, it's the re-release of the original version of Tsar, which wears like an EPD, compared to the weak crap that is selled now. The new bottle is green with the top black.

    The middle / late 90's version looks like this:



    The original 89's version looks like this:



    Watch out about buying, many of the shops don't have the new stock and therefore have the middel / late 90's version

  18. #18

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    I tried both Pour Homme and Tsar tonight at Sephora Paris. Yes, they've reconstructed them both. But, in the process, they've toned down the blasting top notes soooo much.
    I'm wearing PH and the drydown is remarkably close, but it smells ever so slightly like a replica. When I exhale on it it, I get something that wasn't there in the original. My bad breathe?
    But, honestly, It's almost as if they're using an artificial clove note.
    Much improved, hands down, it's still there 6 hours later.
    Would I want to wear this again? It would be nice with a tux. But there's all those great Tom Fords out now.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 3rd October 2008 at 03:06 AM.

  19. #19
    Basteri's Avatar
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    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    That is great, I still have some left. Tsar is my fav. of the two. Great evening fragrances and both worth buying.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    Last edited by Basteri; 3rd October 2008 at 06:53 AM.
    The only thing that interferes with my learning is my education.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Quote Originally Posted by Basteri View Post
    That is great, I still have some left. Tsar is my fav. of the two. Great evening fragrances and both worth buying.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    This is the Pour Homme I have. Is this the second-last rendition? Is this the one that's supposed to have been watered down a bit?

  21. #21
    Basteri's Avatar
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    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Tsar, the green bottle is the one being reformulated, If I understood correctly.
    The only thing that interferes with my learning is my education.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    This is the Real McCoy you want to get your hands on! The original with had a paper sticker lable from the scentimus vault.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Maybe we will have some old bottles on Marshalls soon.
    "Burn their homes and churches.Then see if they will not laugh, sing and pray again.
    For when two of them meet anywhere in the world, see if they will not create a new Armenia."

    William Saroyan.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



    Using: Antaeus, The Dreamer, Eau Sauvage and Voyage d Hermes

    Wishing: Tuscan Soul by Ferragamo and Concentré d Orange Verte




    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  24. #24

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Found the new Tsar today! Emerald bottle with black cap; they mixed them on the shelve with the old version;because of this thread I bought the right one! Thanks! I

  25. #25

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    I have the reformulated (green ribbed) bottle and think it is quite nice. It is a easy-going scent to be sure. And for me, it is a good scent when I can't decide what else to wear. I enjoy it.
    But thanks for this information, I'll watch out for the new/old version.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  26. #26

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Another big Van Cleef & Arpels fan here.


    I bought both PH and Tsar within last month from internet. Are they newer versions?:


  27. #27

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    I believe your Tsar is the vintage version but definitely your VC& A is the newer version. The vintage version of VC& A does not have 'pour homme' printed on it....It just says Van Cleef & Arpels, eau de toilette.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    I may not be that lucky!

    According to Van Cleef & Arpels Website, " From 2007 onwards, Tsar will be marketed in its orginal bottle. .... The bottle design .... now sports a deep green as bright as emerald."

    The picture on their website looks almost exactly like mine, including the box. I suspect I got the current production batch.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Quote Originally Posted by abc1234 View Post
    I may not be that lucky!

    According to Van Cleef & Arpels Website, " From 2007 onwards, Tsar will be marketed in its orginal bottle. .... The bottle design .... now sports a deep green as bright as emerald."

    The picture on their website looks almost exactly like mine, including the box. I suspect I got the current production batch.
    The green bottle of Tsar on the right definitely looks vintage to me




    This one right here is the one reissued earlier



    It seems now they have re released it in this bottle

  30. #30

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Your Van Cleef Pour Homme is not the newest version I wrote about- it should not say eau de toilette at the bottom half of the bottle.

    I added an attachment below I don't know if you can view it or not -
    Last edited by scentimus; 19th January 2009 at 07:23 PM.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    These are good news. I liked Tsar in the 80ies but never bought the newer one. Will give it a try. Perhaps this will start a new trend in perfume industry. Next one should be Guerlain Vetiver!!!

  32. #32

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Mine is like this:



    I love the leather notes that emerge slowly from its chypre characteristic. To me, Tsar is a stronger version of Chanel-Egoiste. no?

  33. #33

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Funny you should mention VCA as I just picked up both Tsar & PH within the past month. Don't know if the PH is vintage or not (bought it from a fellow B-noter) but it smells dark, punchey and musky. Even smelling the sprayer gives off a funky/fecal smell that is quite enjoyable.

    Tsar bores me to tears. I've got it on my sale list for cheap so send me a PM or check out my sale list thread if interested.
    "I exist for myself, and for those to whom my unquenchable thirst for freedom gives everything, but also for everyone, since insofar as I am able to love - I love everyone. Of noble hearts, I am the noblest - and the most generous of those that yearn to give love in return. - I am a human being, I love death and I love life."

    Egon Schiele - Self-Potrait


    My classics: Dior Homme EdT, YSL Rive Gauche PH, Helmut Lang Cuiron, L'Occitane Neroli (vintage), Davidoff Zino, L'Occitane Eau des Baux

    http://www.basenotes.net/wardrobe/2976

  34. #34

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Thank you for sharing, it was a great post!

  35. #35
    N_Tesla's Avatar
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    Smile Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    I went to their web site. Pretty classy. Looks like they are going the right direction.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    My new bottle of Tsar arrived today, and I think it`s great! Very formal, classical and conservative gentlemans fragrance. Some say Tsar is similar to Polo (green). Is it true?

    -Pour homme on the other hand, I didn`t care much about..
    Last edited by Oslo-Fjord; 2nd January 2012 at 02:31 PM.

  37. #37

    Default Re: Van Cleef & Arpels Parfums - A restructure to its former glory

    Quote Originally Posted by Oslo-Fjord View Post
    My new bottle of Tsar arrived today, and I think it`s great! Very formal, classical and conservative gentlemans fragrance. Some say Tsar is similar to Polo (green). Is it true?
    They are similar in that both are very green. The main differences IMO are that Tsar has a big blast of lavender to begin with whereas Polo is very piney and that Tsar has more of a floral element.

    Both beautiful!

    Enjoy

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