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  1. #1
    Hoos's Avatar
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    Question I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    I've been on an amber quest. I'm really looking for a nice golden amber on the masculine side (maybe a touch of leather) with amber as the primary note - possibly even a solo note.

    But it has to be an amber with absolutely no vanilla or incense. Preferably no or little floral. It's been somewhat fruitless. Here's what I've tried and rejected and why rejected:

    Ambre Sultan - negligible amber, too busy
    Ava Luxe Amber Essence - vanilla
    Tom Ford's Amber Absolute - vanilla and incense
    Sonoma Scent Studio's Ambre Noir - strong incense (otherwise, lovely as all heck and masculine)
    Costume National's Scent Intense - too floral (it's perfect 12 hours in, though)
    CdG Series 4 Anbar - Hahahahaha! Amber? No. No. Not here.
    Montale Blue Amber - vanilla

    I have sampled two that I like but they're not exactly what I have in mind:

    Profumum Ambra Aurea - a gray amber. Kind of coolish, but amber.
    Farmacia SS. Anunziata's Ambra Nera - this is very nice and meets all of my requirements. It has a kind of funky start (think BenGay) but unfolds into a great amber with faint touches of honey, salt and faint smokiness. The downside is that it is no longer made.

    So, what haven't I tried that you would recommend? (Just no vanilla or incense, please!)

    Thank you all!
    Brent

    Catherine Deneuve: "You should put scent where you like to be kissed."


  2. #2

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Hey Brent,

    I don't know if you've tried it, but there is a Fred Hayman scent called Touch (sometimes it goes by "Touch with Love" but I guess it depends on the packaging) that I owned up until trading it to a friend. I remember the amber being pretty nice, but do not recall any incense or vanilla. Nor do I recall any resemblance to Brut, as some reviewers have said. It can be had fairly cheap at Perfumania stores and on E-Bay. It's in the black box.....rectangular bottle with the red faux wax seal. Admittedly, it did sometimes remind me of pipe tobacco, though.

    Ahh, well....just thought I'd throw that one out there.

    Good Luck!
    Last edited by Richie_B; 13th September 2008 at 05:17 AM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    I sampled Blue Amber a few weeks ago and I don't remember it having a vanillic quality or any incense. It's very sweet though. Here is the "blurb" on it: "A sensational and surprising creation confuses us with its combination of freshness and deep warmth. Italian bergamot and bourbon geranium give Montale Blue Amber dynamic impressions. The heart-note contains coriander and the warm base is of ambergris assisted by the sweetness of vanilla."
    Last edited by Bigsly; 13th September 2008 at 05:18 AM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Darn! I saw the thread title and was going to recommend SSS Ambre Noir. But you don't want the myrrh. It IS a deep one, no?

  5. #5

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    What do you think of MPG Ambre Precieux ? amber takes center stage in this one with a slightly bitter masculin lavender and myrtle opening.

    Also try Creed Ambre Cannelle .. a sweet, civety amber with masculine character provided by bay leaf and and cinnamon.
    Last edited by zztopp; 13th September 2008 at 05:40 AM.
    -

  6. #6

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    That`s a very strange search, as amber is accord made from incense-like resins (frankincense, myrrhe, benzoin) and vanilla in order to reach ambergris effect.

    Anyway, I believe that ambrox or ambroxan molecule will fit very good.
    You could order this molecule from perfumerworld or other open perfumer source.
    Or - try Molecule 02 by Escentric Molecules, it`s mostly ambroxan - woody dry masculine amber. But it`s more expensive than make dilution yourself.

    And I remember that Eau de Merveilles by Hermes was made from unbearable synthetic ambergris accord (no pronounced vanilla or incense there). Maybe you should try all the flankers of Eau de Merveilles too (gourmand stuff).

    There`s Annick Goutal serie Les Orientalistes with one potent scent devoted to Amber. There`s some vanilla, but not so much.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  7. #7

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    What about Vintage Tabarome? I'm wearing it now and it sort of fits your description.

  8. #8

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Quote Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post
    That`s a very strange search, as amber is accord made from incense-like resins (frankincense, myrrhe, benzoin) and vanilla in order to reach ambergris effect.

    Anyway, I believe that ambrox or ambroxan molecule will fit very good.
    You could order this molecule from perfumerworld or other open perfumer source.
    Or - try Molecule 02 by Escentric Molecules, it`s mostly ambroxan - woody dry masculine amber. But it`s more expensive than make dilution yourself.

    And I remember that Eau de Merveilles by Hermes was made from unbearable synthetic ambergris accord (no pronounced vanilla or incense there). Maybe you should try all the flankers of Eau de Merveilles too (gourmand stuff).

    There`s Annick Goutal serie Les Orientalistes with one potent scent devoted to Amber. There`s some vanilla, but not so much.
    Amber or ambergris? These are two different things. There have been threads on this in the past.
    -

  9. #9
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    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
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    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    What do you think of MPG Ambre Precieux ? amber takes center stage in this one with a slightly bitter masculin lavender and myrtle opening.

    Also try Creed Ambre Cannelle .. a sweet, civety amber with masculine character provided by bay leaf and and cinnamon.
    Ambre Precieux was going to be my recommendation, too, Hoos. If you haven't, you've simply got to try it. I find it somewhat minimalist, but very well-balanced, to put the amber front-and-center without being too loud or too subtle. And little or no incense was one of my criteria, too. I got samples of both this one and Ambre Sultan, and I picked this one to wear first with no hesitation.

    Thanks for the pointer to Ambre Cannelle, ZZ. I have not sampled that one. I'm a cat person, and my beloved Kouros needs a buddy to pack around with and raise some hell.

  10. #10

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    I am assuming you mean the classical recipe for amber accord which includes labdanum, vanilla and resins. Maybe if you look for fragrances that list labdanum instead of amber in the notes, you can find some that have the woody, soft quality without any vanilla.

    As an alternative, you could by labdanum essential oil or abslute and dilute it in one of the generally accepted carriers.
    Last edited by Asha; 13th September 2008 at 05:07 PM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Amber or ambergris? These are two different things. There have been threads on this in the past.
    I remember those threads and participated in them.
    Main thing is (as I could recall now) - amber is accord made of resins which is reminds ambergris in order of basenotes.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  12. #12

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Let me second (or third) the Creed house note, especially as exemplified in:
    Ambre Cannelle
    'Vintage' Tabarome

    I think these may also fit your requirements:
    Ambre by Baldessarini
    Amber & Lavender by Jo Malone
    Ambar Gris by Madini (listed as Ambargris in the Directory)
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  13. #13

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    I'd also give Ava Luxe Golden Amber a try.

    My favorite amber is Ambre Russe, Parfum d'Empire, but it is a delightfully rich melange of notes that you may not want. If you are an amber lover, though, you must give it a try.

  14. #14
    Hoos's Avatar
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    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Thank you all for the great recommendations. I've got some new things to sample. I'll add your recommendations to my list!

    I've got no problems with myrrh (don't know where that came from). Incense notes in fragrance seem to be created by certain things to create an "incense effect" of being in a smoky room of incense. It's that specific thing that causes a reaction in me. I have a bottle of myrrh and some frags with frankincense in them. No problems.

    My nose appears to be really sensitive to vanilla in fragrances, so I really tend to avoid it because it's so often over done - it can't just be an ingredient, it has to be a note. Usually, a prominent note and often a LOUD note. I do have a couple of things with vanilla in which I can't smell the vanilla.

    Thanks, Asha, for the info. I'd come to suspect that vanilla was a primary ingredient in creating the "amber" scent. If it's true vanilla (not vanillic) and used minimally, I can tolerate it. It's just hard to find that in the current market and its love of gourmands.

    You all are just great! Terrific information and education. Very much appreciated.
    Brent

    Catherine Deneuve: "You should put scent where you like to be kissed."


  15. #15
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    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Good luck with the search Hoos. I second the recommendations for Ambre Precieux by MPG and Amber & Lavender by Jo Malone.

  16. #16

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Quote Originally Posted by Hoos View Post
    I've got no problems with myrrh (don't know where that came from). Incense notes in fragrance seem to be created by certain things to create an "incense effect" of being in a smoky room of incense. It's that specific thing that causes a reaction in me. I have a bottle of myrrh and some frags with frankincense in them. No problems.
    Hi Hoos. I'm the one who assumed that you don't want myrrh because you had said that Sonoma Scent Studio's AMBRE NOIR had a strong incense smell. I'm still learning about incense, so I looked up the notes on that one. The perfumer lists Labdanum Absolute, Rose, Vetiver with Mitti, Oakmoss Absolute, Aged Indian Patchouli, Texas Cedarwood, Indian Sandalwood, Olibanum, Myrrh, Castoreum. I have read that myrrh is used in fragrance to impart an incense-like note, so I assumed that it was the culprit for you. Now I'm guessing it's the olibanum. Had to look it up, but I see that it is supposed to be similar to Frankincense, but milder (?).

    Thanks for the opportunity to learn. This stuff is fascinating!

  17. #17

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    I was about to suggest but, alas, I have to third trying Jo Malone's Amber & Lavender

  18. #18

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Eden Botanical's Amber, Amber Royal, or Patchouli Amber.
    ~Grenouille knew for certain that unless he possesed this scent, his life would have no meaning.~
    Perfume: The Story of a Murderer

  19. #19

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Quote Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post
    There`s Annick Goutal serie Les Orientalistes with one potent scent devoted to Amber. There`s some vanilla, but not so much.
    Excellent suggestion moon_fish. Annick Goutal Ambre Fétiche is amber, styrax, labdanum and frankincense. Despite the incense, Hoos, it might be worth testing.

    L'Artisan Ambre Extrême has a trace of vanilla but the amber owns the scent.

    Any Tauer's L'air du Desert Marocain has an incredible amber in the base.

    Neil Morris Burnt Amber is outstanding. Plum blossom, black pepper, amber, oak, castoreum, smoke, oud.

  20. #20

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Youth-Dew Amber Nude? no vanilla ,quite unisex and (I think) strong amber

  21. #21

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    I'd like to recommend Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme -- a bit floral in the beginning, but develops into a dry amber and leather combo. Intimately by David Beckham -- spicy but mostly very woody, no incense, with a dry amber at the base, wears close to the skin until your body heats up, and cheap enough online to barely make any kind of dent to your wallet!
    *********************



    Close your eyes, so you can see what you're smelling.

    "Press trigger twice to release the strength of wood...the wantonness of vanilla...the sentiment of floral...the passion of spice!"


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  22. #22

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    For me Parfums de Nicolai New York is (unfortunately) a good dose of amber. And I think it's without vanilla and/or incense.

  23. #23

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    I got a bottle of Creed Ambre Canelle and want to get rid of it. I loved it the first time, then I learned to hate it with all my heart!

  24. #24
    Mudassir's Avatar
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    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Neil Morris Burnt Amber
    Offsite Sales - Updated June7th

    Vintage Dia, Vetiver Dry, Angel parfum, Opium parfum for Sale:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/215962

  25. #25

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    You might look into Yves Rocher's Voile d' Ambre. It does list vanilla in the notes but read a couple of reviews (peredepierre's Dane has a good one) and see if it is something of interest for you.

  26. #26

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    No mentions for L'Occitane's Amber? No vanilla there and a gorgeous fragrance.

    I would second Ambre by Baldessarini which is long lasting and a surprisingly elegant fragrance.
    In a world where people smell bad, it is the personal responsibility of every Basenoter to improve the world one SotD at a time...

  27. #27

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Quote Originally Posted by Hoos View Post
    I've been on an amber quest. I'm really looking for a nice golden amber on the masculine side (maybe a touch of leather) with amber as the primary note - possibly even a solo note.

    But it has to be an amber with absolutely no vanilla or incense. Preferably no or little floral. It's been somewhat fruitless....
    So, what haven't I tried that you would recommend? (Just no vanilla or incense, please!)
    Thank you all!
    If you are still searching, I recommend you try Ambre d'Or by Il Profumo. The best things happen to me when I am not looking for them. Just like you, I find Amber fragrances rather difficult to find. The only one I own is Ambre Sultan. I love AS but it is unisex leaning a little to the feminine side. For me, this limits its versatility. Up until now I have loved the smell of L'Artisans room fragrance, the Amber Ball, more than any other amber composition. But that may change soon, as I have come across Ambre d'Or by lucky accident.

    'Golden Amber' is the best I can describe it. I sampled it at the shop, and the paper tissue I brought back still smells very good on its third day. I don't think there is much else thrown in - kind of sober so to speak, but I haven't had it on my skin. If I hadn't known better, I would have thought I'm smelling a masculine perfume. The assistant overdid her sales talk a little, saying that I should also buy the perfume oil which they have. (same scent, but slower development). Each bottle costs about $200, and the bottles are small .

    I am not surprised that you hardly find a review of any of the Profumo perfumes on BN. But judging from first impressions, not only the amber seems to be excellent!
    Last edited by narcus; 18th September 2008 at 03:38 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  28. #28

    Default Re: I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla

    Hoos,

    did you find an amber that fit the bill?
    Seek not the favor of the multitude; it is seldom got by honest and lawful means. But seek the testimony of few; and number not voices, but weigh them. - Immanuel Kant

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