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  1. #31

    Default Re: Which perfume houses use a high percentage of naturals?

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    As usual basenoters forget their buddy members. I really do not understand why, seeing that I am the only natural perfumer in "the guide" and that I have 3 fragrances with 4 stars.
    Most of the time we do not see what we have just under our eyes.
    Profumo
    Well. I know who I'm not buying perfumes from!

  2. #32

    Default Re: Which perfume houses use a high percentage of naturals?

    Quote Originally Posted by scentophile View Post
    Sorry sculptureofsoul, I would have to disagree with your statement with more naturals = less longevity. There is a whole spectrum of "longevity" in the naturals world and in the synthetic world. Dimethyl sulfide, a raw material used in creating a lychee effect is gone within first few minutes. You have pink pepper that gives a fiery blast but is short lived, so you're right with this example. Now, if we talk about naturals in the resin and absolute forms, these continue strongly for a long time. Take a formula with angelica (full of musks) wrapped around by woody notes like vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood and sweet, balsamic notes like vanilla absolute, tonka bean absolute, benjoin, labadanum absolute, and so on, you're going to have a formula that's going to last for a really really long time. That's why we have synthetic basenotes and natural basenotes.

    - Alex
    Alex, I don't mean to say that naturals can't have good longevity, and there are some that are *extremely* tenacious (tonka bean and oakmoss in particular) - but it's just a given that if you isolate the "primary chemicals" from a scent and have them concentrated at 100% as you do with a synthetic molecule, it will last longer and be stronger than an equivalent quantity of the natural substance which invariably has several (tens, if not hundreds) of other chemicals in its composition that may round out its smell or add that much needed depth and complexity, but don't contribute to the strength or longevity of the 'primary note' of the oil. I'm sure you know that the primary olfactive components of rose oil only make up 1% or less of the oil, despite making up 90% or so of the scent. So, given that, if you have a mix of only those chemicals, concentrated, you'd theoretically have a rose note 100 times stronger than the original, and surely due to quantity of the chemicals alone, it will have greater longevity (or rather, be perceptible for longer.)

    It's hard to get over 6-8 hours of longevity (where it's more than a skin scent at that point) with an EDP (say, 20% dilution) strength all natural perfume that is composed of say, 60% basenotes. Of course you can go even higher with the percentage of basenotes, but then you're stuck with minimal evolution, basenotes overwhelming the top and midnotes, and even less diffusion due to the minimal 'throw' of basenote materials. It's an issue I wrestle with regularly.
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 19th September 2008 at 08:22 AM.
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  3. #33

    Default Re: Which perfume houses use a high percentage of naturals?

    Quote Originally Posted by VM I hate civet View Post
    The Good Life said: "Jean Paul Guerlain stated that the standard proportion in Guerlains was 80 natural to 20 synthetic."

    I am responsible for the arguably woolly title of this thread, but somewhere at the back of mind I thought there might be an industry average ratio of natural to synthetic, and the Guerlain figure coincides with the one quoted by Chandler Burr in The Perfect Scent (P117 for those who own the book!) He goes on to say that Hermes Eau Orange Verte is 70% natural, which was considered "extraordinarily high" by ther Hermes team, suggesting that anything above 20% natural could be construed as high, certainly 10% over!

    Thanks for all your contributions - I wasn't personally particularly interested in the distinction for my own sake - but now I am curious to test examples from both camps to see if I can detect any differences in quality or longevity.

    I believe the Guerlain reference has its percentages transposed - I have seen it stated as 20% natural, 80% synthetic. From the formulas I've seen, I'd say even 20% is an unusually high amount of naturals nowadays in mainstream perfumery.

  4. #34

    Default Re: Which perfume houses use a high percentage of naturals?

    Aha, then it would be a case of "in vino veritas!"


  5. #35

    Default Re: Which perfume houses use a high percentage of naturals?

    A representative for By Kilian once told me that their fragrances are mostly natural, with a small percentage of synthetics to give it a modern feel. As far as I know she was right - the least I can say about by Kilian is that they smell like good quality ingredients to me.
    Sales thread here

  6. #36
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    Default Re: Which perfume houses use a high percentage of naturals?

    Interesting thread, especially about fragrance color.

    I agree with above posters that just saying a fragrance has a "high" percentage is not going to be legally actionable. It's way too vague and general. Only if someone were to say, for instance, that a fragrance had a certain percentage of naturals and it turned out not to be true might there be a false advertising claim.

    Besides the excellent all-naturals mentioned above, I've liked Roxana Illuminated Perfumes (illuminatedperfume.com) and Strange Invisible Perfume. The latter, however, has some challenging fragrances, and they are probably not for newbies like your friend.
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