Thread: Ok, round me out.
As many of you have known, and have helped, I have tried to find a rose scent, well, actually, THE rose scent. Tried a bunch and finally, I think I have narrowed it down. I got a decant of Le Labo Rose 31, and the more I wear it, the more nuanced it gets. I think our friend Jenson tried it and he also found a better appreciation with more wearings. Purplebird tried a little sample and she posted a great review, but I dont get the animalistic notes. Then again, my parents all smoked when I was a kid so maybe that is why I desire projection or sillage in a scent - so it can waft to my handicapped nose!!!
Okay, so Le Labo Rose 31 on one arm and Eau d'Italie Paestum Rose on the other. I get a wine sort of rosey smell, and at first, it was fruity, but now, it is more like a wine. Not boozy though. Le Labo, some spicy comes through but I would not say it is spicy on my skin. I also sprayed Villoresi Alamut on my hand and comparitively, it is down right feminine and perfumey.
So, here is what I have and comments:
Fumerie Turque: An all year scent and smoky on me, an at times, rose comes out. I tend to wear this to show off to myself, make me feel that the scent is special, important. A 1/4 bell har left and one in reserve.
Piper Nigrum: So different, a 1.7 ounce bottle that has 80% left. Used to be worn a lot more, but sometimes, it can be creamy at the end of the day, but today, it was peppery.
Montale Red Vetyver: Just got this. I like how it is a softer spicy, and wearable.
Tauer L'Air du Desert. Got this in February so it has been worn in summer mostly. The 2nd most special bottle I have so far.
I have Aoud Limes but have it up for sale. It is nice, but I dont get roses, and I dont get spice. Kinda preferred Attar over this and will maybe get Black Aoud.
So, I have Le Labo and Paestum Rose to consider. Was thinking I need something for winter or year round. IF I can be convinced that I need both, could do that.
I was looking at maybe CDG Avignon or 2Man, but I am reading longevity is an issue. I think I might skip those and focus on the Le Labo/Paestum Rose.
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If Rose is waht you want and you want projection/sillage/lasting power then try Une Rose from Malle. Call barneys and see if they'll send you a sample. Le Labo's Rose isn't much "Rose" to my nose. It's more "animalic" (cumin/civet) than anything else but subdued/mild. Like many of their scents the nomenclature doesn't correlate to the dominant notes of the actual scent. Also, with CDG Avignon is heavy on Fankincense and not very wearable (I like it best as a candle). On the other hand Kyoto is fantastic but it is a bit light, airy and heavy on the Cedar. C&S 88 is very similar to the scent of the Caraceni shave cream you have so that will give you a good indication of that one. You might also try the new parfum from Aedes which is based on the room spray (incense, leather and a bit of musk).
88, I swapped for the Le Labo, LOL. 88 on me is very much rose, and soap. My wife compared it to her grandmother's rose soap in the house. I did not want to spend as much as Malle costs. THe Caraceni shave cream was a bit too woody/leathery on me.
Chris, and others, what have you heard about Penhaligon's Elixir coming out?
The new Amouage release is supposedly based on roses. You might want to give that one a try before you settle on a rose scent. Also, this is more for summer wear but Yuzu Rouge has a nice rose heart to it. As for the Montale line Aoud Damascus is very nice and a little more wearable than Black Aoud.
Seek not the favor of the multitude; it is seldom got by honest and lawful means. But seek the testimony of few; and number not voices, but weigh them. - Immanuel Kant
I thought I can tell you about my own hunt for the perfect rose. I started sampling in January and my preferences has changed quite a bit. To follow is my story of roses, chronologivally.
First my list was like this (comments are first impressions by novis nose...):
Dark Rose(Czech & Speake) "Dark. Sensual. Mysterious. Rose."
Rose Poivree(The different Company) "wow - naughty dirty roses!"
Opone(Diptyque) "this is cool - very similar but not as good as Rose Poivree..."
Domenico Caraceni "so true to flower, so manly"
Rose de Nuit(Serge Lutens) "quite feminine drama rose"
Rose 31(Le Labo) "hmm, to elegant and a bit boring"
Paestum Rose(Eau de Italy) "pretty boring rose from the crypt"
No 88(Czech & Speake) "Grandma!!!"
Voleur de Roses(L`Artisan) "ouch - rotten yeasty roses, what´s this?!"
Then I tried some more...
Golden Aoud(Montale) "favorite Montale, very soft - perfect balance aoud-rose, lacks that cloying thing"
Aoud Lime (Montale) "Fresh very wearable, not so much roses"
Incense Rose(Tauer) "I like - different, strong"
Un Rose(Frederic Malle) "beaty in a bottle - too feminine?"
Sa Majeste la Rose(Serge Lutens) "same as Un Rose - almost"
Black Aoud(Montale) "wow - monster rose! Is it wearable?"
Aoud Queen Roses(Montale) "following three pretty similar. Nice but there is some sharp note I don´t like"
Aoud Roses Petals(Montale)
Roses Musk(Montale) "nice but barely detectable and a little boring"
Aoud Damascus(Montale) "Grandma #2!!!"
Hammam Bouquet (Penhaligon´s) "really like, quite similar to No 88 in feel"
Well, now I have some distance to my roses (I hope...) and the list has changed.
Current status in my rose hunt:
Still in top is Dark Rose. A great part of my rose hunt has been about finding a stand in for this rarity, but it seems impossible. A big surprise is Voleur de Roses which I finally understand and MUST buy a bottle of. This one evokes feelings. Mostly melancholy but its´ beauty and different take on roses also always makes me smile. A masterpiece! Opone is still in top of the chart. Winy, spicy dark red rose in the sun. Very masculine IMHO, and not similar to Rose Poivree anymore. Un Rose for a true bright beautiful rose. Bright but not sweet and pretty unisex. Perhaps I wont wear it very often but would fill a gap in my collection... Finally Hammam Bouquet. Joyfull, not heavy, old world roses - rather bright and very refined.
I would almost buy
No 88. So different, and not Grandma anymore. It still grows on me and I really understood its´greatness when I sprayed a friend. Well he didn´t like it but he smelled awesome.
Rose de Nuit. Still great, a bit feminine but I can handle it
Golden Aoud. Best of the Montale´s I have tried (IMHO), and I like several of their offerings.
Aoud Lime. Great bright exciting take on aoud. I like. Not so rosy though.
Roses Musk. Very pleasant but not very special. We´ll see.
Some of the following are nice but I wouldn´t buy them: Incense Rosé, Rose 31, Roses Musk, Domenico Caraceni, Paestum Rose (maybe I have to retry this one...), the aouds except Damascus, Sa Majeste la Rose.
The rest I can´t stand. Rose Poivree - i never wear it, gotta sell it.
Hmm just my experience if anyone has read this far...
edit: how could I forget Hammam Bouquet?
Last edited by pelle; 17th September 2008 at 03:22 PM.
"Wonderfully wild, eminently civilized" - Derby by Guerlain
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Hey! i just got my hands on TDC Rose Poivree..and boy! it's good!! ...i have posted my views on same...if you havent sampled it yet...pls do add this to your sample list...
Jenson and Pelle: The problem with those little vials is that you wear it once and have very little for a second, full wearing. The only time I tried Rose Poivree, it was like a very big hit of black pepper, much more so than the opening of Piper Nigrum. Then it faded and I felt that the roses were like rose water.
Le Labo is at least very wearable on my skin. I have enough to give it many wearings.
I traded my 88 for the Le Labo. I loved the roses in 88, but on my skin, it is soapy. I dont do soapy scents well, including Original Vetiver by Creed. Those with a little edge (Piper, Tauer LDDM, Fumerie) all seem to do well with my skin chemistry.
I have a little 1.6 vial of Paestum. I also have some Aoud Limes I am trading as it is not the rose I want. I might have to go to Golden or Black, and want to try the Golden first
straight of the bottle it smells of pure, dense rose petals..i don't get any hint of peppery blast...maybe the vial is the culprit.....
im glad you finally found your Rose frag of choice...i found mine too! and it's Rose Poirvree
Creed Fleurs de The Rose Bulgarie? Beautiful dark rose there. You might find it feminine if rose isn't your accord, though. (Fleurs de The Rose Bulgarie fromt he Private Collection, and not Fleurs de Bulgarie).
Yeah, I had tried Fleur the Bulgarie and it was straight up rose. I need something that balances rose, and so far, the Le Labo is nice. Like Pelle, one could feel it is elegant, and nothing special, but then again, it has a calming assurance to it.
I will wear Paestum Rose tomorrow. If it works, great, but if not, Le Labo will stay in my rotation. I would like to retry Rose Poivree and then Golden Aoud.
neverthless, great Read Pelle! and, i did read till the end, was an interesting overview of all Rose based scents...but it seems you like spiced up or woody rose scents....which frags like Rose 31 or RP are not..
I began searching for a masculine rose fragrance almost a year ago.
I have not tried everything that is available as I have become very well satisfied with Czech & Speake No. 88 and Domenico Caraceni pour Homme (aka 1913). They speak to me like none of the others.
finsfan, I don't remember - have you tried Hammam Bouquet or Iquitos?
Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost
Instead of buying a full bottle, why don't you just get 4 or 5 different 8ml decants? You seem to be having a hard time making up your mind. The decants would give you several wearings of different rose scents, thus allowing you several opportunities to discover the particular nuances of each scent. It's time consuming and costly to buy full bottles of scents only to sell / trade them a day later after one or two wearings....
I sold some Neredies Imperial Oppoponax as it was turning very vanilla. Vanilla, chocolate (Vetiver Extraordinaire), heavy earthy scents (the original Guerlain Vetiver or Voluer de Roses), many ferns, and powder, I cant wear. Lemons tend to sour on me. Limes dont last. For some reason, the Le Labo is lasting on me, and smells after 4 hours about as strong as Aoud Limes does.