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  1. #1

    Default Frederick Malle--Restoring my faith in niche

    Recently, I've been sort of let down by niche fragrances, and I probably have no one but myself to blame. Creeds smell great but have atrocious longevity on me, my favorite MPGs are being reforumulated due to BS health concerns, my skins doesn't agree with most LaPs, etc. I decided to try moving on to smaller houses and ordering samples from ThePerfumedCourt. That catch is that many of the smaller houses such as i Profumo de Firenzi don't received much attention here and all I have to go on are the beautiful but often times misleading descriptions on Lucky Scent and the Court. If you've ever wondered what someone writes like after smoking and opium pipe, go to Lucky Scent and just read 10 descriptions from random scents. The Court isn't as bad writing wise, but when they described a patchouli as 'intense, almost erotic' I know to start getting worried.

    For every one Black Aoud or Muschio Nero that I try and love, there are three or four Querelles that let me down completely. I was beginning to lose my faith in niche for my own usaged.

    Enter Frederick Malle.

    Until last month in all my years of wearing fragrances I had never worn a Malle, and I have no idea what in the hell I was thinking. I've fallen hard for French Lover, it smells great on me and I will probably end up getting a full bottle.

    The star of the show however is the one I was most worried about: Musc Ravageur.

    See, I've been reading some much about MR and MKK that after ordering a sample, I was actually worried asking myself "Can I pull this off?" I've never worried about that with any scent before! So it was with much relief that I expected an angry lion of a scent and instead got a kind and docile lapcat.

    MR isn't hard to wear at all in my opinion, and I've never really had such a heavy musc to wear. On my skin it comes across as more oriental, with a mix of creamy lavender, tonka, and musk being the big three notes I can pick out. Is it strong? You betcha, two small sprays to the chest were still going strong 12 hours later. But the musk in it is so well blended that while it's easily recognizable, it's not overpowering. I honestly think (on my skin) I could do one spray and wear it to work. And when it gets colder here, I see this matching smashingly with a warn wool sweater and a topcoat against the chill. I kept sticking my face down my shirt every 10 minutes like a junkie getting a fix. This is very bottle worthy and could easily be a signature scent one the temps stay at 50 and below by the end of October.

    I'm kind of worried about trying MKK now, I've been expecting some shambling musk monster and I have a feeling this one will be very wearable too.

    So here's my three cheers to Malle, for allowing the best noses to create masterpieces over and over, for not compromising and making something where you can smell the quality of ingredients, and for pretty much convincing me to drop the cash for 2 bottles at retail price.

  2. #2
    zztopp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    the Dirty South

    Default Re: Frederick Malle--Restoring my faith in niche

    This thread looks like its from two years ago (pre-French Lover, Outrageous!, and other recent Malle madness like his attempts to perform a brain scan on Maurice Roucel to uncover his perfume design skills, etc. )

  3. #3
    odysseusm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Edmonton, Alberta

    Default Re: Frederick Malle--Restoring my faith in niche

    I did a quickie in-store sample of all the Malles. Admittedly not an in-depth consideration. I loved and subsequently bought Bois D'Orage. It is excellent, one of my favorite dry resinous-incense style scents.
    None of the others were must-buys, but I do need to try 'em again.

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  4. #4
    Basenotes Institution
    petruccijc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Clearwater Beach, Florida

    Default Re: Frederick Malle--Restoring my faith in niche

    This has been one of the most disappointing line of fragrances to me. I have sampled all of them, and have not found any to be full bottle worthy. I remember rushing into Barneys practically running people over in anticipation of sampling Musc Ravaguer. When I tried it I thought "This is it?" What a major letdown.
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  5. #5

    Default Re: Frederick Malle--Restoring my faith in niche

    I have to agree with petruccijc - Malle is blah to me, too. I had a fling with MR, sold it and don't miss it. I recently had an appointment, with a lovely young woman, and it smelled top drawer on her. Maybe that's the problem with Malle for me - they're just too clean and perfect, they're better on the gals than on the gents. I have to admit, I do like Outrageous!. For niche, I'm liking MPG more and more. Killian is almost interesting, but the prices are a bit steep. Tom Ford certainly put together a nice range - again, almost bottle worthy. But, in the end, IMO, Aramis is better than anything that any niche house has ever done.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 21st September 2008 at 03:00 AM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Frederick Malle--Restoring my faith in niche

    Most of Malle's scents are kinda of uninspiring save for my like of the pointed vetiver of Vetiver Extraordinaire. Is Malle really niche? The perfumers for Malle also created many designer fragrances.

    Jean-Claude Ellena
    Angeliques Sous La Pluie, Bigarade Concentrée, Cologne Bigarade, L'Eau d'Hiver
    House perfumer for Hermes and created a few for Bulgari and the amazing Declaration for Cartier plus Armani, Rochas and Yves Saint Laurent

    Dominique Ropion
    Carnal Flower, Vétiver Extraordinaire, Une Fleur de Cassie
    Also created fragrances for Thierry Mugler, Escada, Burberry, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Armani and Ralph Lauren

    Maurice Roucel
    Dans Tes Bras, Musc Ravageur
    Rochas, Kenzo, Guerlain, Guess, Gucci, DKNY, Nautica but also has done work for Amouage

    Pierre Bourdon
    French Lover AKA Bois d'Orage, Iris Poudre
    Cool Water/Green Irish Tweed, stuff for Dior, Mont Blanc, Kouros, Ferre, Escada,

    Edmond Roudnitska
    Le Parfum de Thérèse
    Dior, Rochas, Elizabeth Arden

    Edouard Flechier
    Lys Méditerranée, Une Rose
    Dior, Jacomo

    Others that don't fall into the more designer than "niche" are Michel Roudnitska Noir Epices, Ralf Schweiger Lipstick Rose and Olivia Giacobetti En Passant.

    I supposed my point is that Malle's fragrances don't stray too far from the designer stuff but is still considered niche possibly from its availability and price ($200 for a 100ml bottle).

  7. #7

    Default Re: Frederick Malle--Restoring my faith in niche

    I do admit I hated it in the store, but its starting to grow on me. of course i'm talkng about Musc Ravageur which I bought last week. French Lover smelled nice to, but both of these don't last on my skin.

    funny thing is I have to apply Musc Ravageur like 4 to 5 times through the day, my skin eats this stuff. but it does smell like Gucci Envy in a very small way. I will say that Rose 31 is a very strange and nice smelling scent, that I never expected to like and have fallen for. But the clear winner in my Barneys tour was Bergamote 22, yes I never actually thought I would like this but boy was I wrong. Diffentely going to buy a bottle.
    Any Knowledge Is Good Knowledge For Me.......

  8. #8

    Default Re: Frederick Malle--Restoring my faith in niche

    imho...malle is one of the few brands out there with the capacity to make one go "wow, tht smells/feels good"....i have never experienced a scent with such amazing feel, tranparency and the sheer shimmering quality like French lover...its a must try for anyone remotely interested in appreciation for Vetiver Ex and Noir Epices too is growing by leaps and's a house which is truly makin an effort to give its customers something out of ordinary or lets say way above average....

    like the Op (shalashaska) im too a great admirer for MPG..i recently acquired Santal Noble (vintage f) and i must say...its close ot being my holy grail.....

  9. #9

    Default Re: Frederick Malle--Restoring my faith in niche

    After sampling Musc Ravageur, Vetiver Extraordinaire and French Lover, FL was the only one which held my interest but I have longevity concerns with it.

    An average house, IMO.

    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather

  10. #10

    Default Re: Frederick Malle--Restoring my faith in niche

    I did not find anything good but VE and Angeliques Sous La Pluie but

    I feel I coud substituteYang for VE anytime. If I do not have yang I can reach for Vetiver Extreme by Guerlain. Either way I do no need VE on my collection.

    AslP is a fantastic perfume... for a minute. after that it is gone. Note that I almost never complain about longevity except for some few cases. All my aftershaves heve more longevity than this.

    FM is what happens when you call something "art"
    Last edited by irish; 21st September 2008 at 09:55 PM.

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