Histoires de Parfums Noir Patchouli

[shalashaska]

First off, whoever writes the product descriptions for Luckyscent and Theperfumecourt is high. Not just a regular high, we're taking full on LSD talking to god high.

Let's look at the product description:

"An intense, almost erotic fragrance with top notes of coriander, cardamom and patchouli leaves, middle notes of juniper and black pepper; and base notes of vetiver, musk, oakmoss, leather and just a touch of vanilla. Nuit Patchouli is an eau de parfum, edp. This is a European exclusive and is not available in the United States."

Sounds very intriguing right? I agree, and I want the fragrance that description actually applies too, because Noir Patchouli sure as hell isn't it.

Here's my one sentence review that should tell you all you need to know:

Kissing cousin of VdR, with more 'dirt.'

Ok, I might need to expound on that slightly. The opening reminds me on Givenchy Gentleman for about five minutes, then it dries down fast to a rose and patchouli base. Forget about black pepper, it's just not there. The rose and patchouli dance around a little, with a suede type note peeking out now and then for about 4-5 hours, then the rose fades and it's patchouli, musk, and vanilla. I don't get any vetiver out of this, and the final stage of the dry down is detectable for another 3 hours or so. The patchouli is more earthy that VdR and the rose less 'wet' but the similarities are obvious. At first I thought it was too feminine for me but now I realize it's smack in the middle of unisex. A pleasant scent but a little simplistic and dull honestly, probably because I've smelled it before. Once I'm done with the decant I sincerely doubt I'll get another.

[bbBD]

I'm testing this now and will keep these comments in mind - for now it's a very different, but enjoyable patchouli. It's sort of dark and earthy and there's more going on than just patchouli. It's not a Eauropean exclusive and can be purchased in the US, btw.

[surreality]

It's not a Eauropean exclusive and can be purchased in the US, btw.

Yep, there are at least two places to get this in the US, MioMia and Beauty Cafe. One sells old design bottles while the other sells new design...

[bbBD]

I have to agree with the review, above... after a patchouli-based accord in the topnotes, the fragrance progresses to a rose heart and base without too much else going on. I'd say patchouli isn't even noticeable after the first half hour, which is fine in a fragrance not named 'patchouli noir'.

[helg]

Something tells me the term "exclusive, not available in the US" makes customers run amok with frenzy comparable with the one Lutens creates with his bell jars from Les Salons, aka it's become "marketing phrasing" to instigate desire.

Other than that, I have to say that I like Patchouli Noir quite a bit and find it quite good, even though it's probably not as "wild" as promised (all that "noir"): it's reminiscent of both Voleur des Roses and Borneo, in fact being somewhere between the two: the floral is very subdued , more than the former, but the dark edge of the chocolate/coffee is not as pronounced as the latter.
I think Lady Vengeance by Juliette has a Gun also exploits this rose-patchouli accord, but with a sweeter edge, more feminine. Patchouli Noir is rather more unisex.

[bbBD]

I didn't catch any chocolate at all - or much patchouli after the top, but I'll check it out again. There's definitely more patchouli in Lady Vengence, which sticks with the rose/patchouli/vanilla from beginning to end.

[bbBD]

I'm working though the Histoire line and can report that '1826' is far more of a patchouli fragrance than is 'noir patchouli'. '1826' is a bit of jumble structurally - the notes on the pyramid aren't presented in the same order on the skin - but the primary accord of patchouli, amber, and musk (with touches of citrus and florals) is great. Definitely the best I've found in the line so far. I also like the masculine '1725', but it didn't stand out in any meaningful way, and I liked my SOTD, Ambre 114. I was thinking about buying one until I realized they're $185 a bottle (120ml).

I've made it through just over half the line, and thought the quality is good I can't help but think their whole theme is gimmicky. Name each perfume after a year and associate most of them with a historical figure. Really they have a range of styles like most other lines - an amber, a white floral, a green, a fougere, etc. Instead of these fragrances just being able to compete and draw attention on their merits, they've concocted this historical 'theme' to differentiate themselves. It's the polar opposite of Parfumerie Generale, which assigns numbers and vague, descriptive names to fragrances so that the wearer can draw their own conclusions with no preconceptions about them.

[helg]

I'm working though the Histoire line and can report that '1826' is far more of a patchouli fragrance than is 'noir patchouli'. '1826' is a bit of jumble structurally - the notes on the pyramid aren't presented in the same order on the skin - but the primary accord of patchouli, amber, and musk (with touches of citrus and florals) is great. Definitely the best I've found in the line so far. I also like the masculine '1725', but it didn't stand out in any meaningful way, and I liked my SOTD, Ambre 114. I was thinking about buying one until I realized they're $185 a bottle (120ml).

I've made it through just over half the line, and thought the quality is good I can't help but think their whole theme is gimmicky. Name each perfume after a year and associate most of them with a historical figure. Really they have a range of styles like most other lines - an amber, a white floral, a green, a fougere, etc. Instead of these fragrances just being able to compete and draw attention on their merits, they've concocted this historical 'theme' to differentiate themselves. It's the polar opposite of Parfumerie Generale, which assigns numbers and vague, descriptive names to fragrances so that the wearer can draw their own conclusions with no preconceptions about them.

1. I will be giving the 1826 a re-run and see what I deduce (interesting comments, thanks)

2. Frankly, most niche lines have to come up with something to differentiate them from others, naturally, yet still encompassing a range of things to satisfy different tastes. They probably came with the range of styles first, the historical figures attachements second ;-)

3. You mist be thinking of Le Labo? Those are the ones with the assigned numbers and the vague names (Aldehyde, Poivre etc.). Parfumerie Generale has rather descriptive and evocative names ie. Corps et Ames (Body and soul), Un Crime Exotique (an exotic crime), L'eau de Circe (Circe's water) etc.
Unless I didn't catch your meaning, in which case, disregard the above.

[nthny]

How coincindental! I was just looking up these fragrances tonight lamenting the lack of reviews. I don't want to hijack the thread as they say but I'd like to know what others think about this and other fragrances from this line (and of course thanks for the comments already posted).

[Kevin Guyer]

Tried Patchouli Noir and 1876 today at Takashimaya in NYC. I'm very impressed with everything but the price: $185 for a 4 oz bottle. Can't they do a 1oz bottle and bring it down to $75?
1876 is designated as a feminine, but it's a cumin laden rose. Dirty and lovely. The patch is very good, too. But I agree with the others that the patchouli disappears too soon and what follows is a bit nondescript.

[*dora*]

I tried Patchouli Noir this year but only on a paper, in a shop. I blamed it to my untrained nose but what I mostly smelled was rose. Very weak patchouli in comparison with other patchouli perfumes. I also had the impression I had smelled it before... Beautiful ( but I agree: very expensive ).

[NELSON29]

Tried Patchouli Noir and 1876 today at Takashimaya in NYC. I'm very impressed with everything but the price: $185 for a 4 oz bottle. Can't they do a 1oz bottle and bring it down to $75?
1876 is designated as a feminine, but it's a cumin laden rose. Dirty and lovely. The patch is very good, too. But I agree with the others that the patchouli disappears too soon and what follows is a bit nondescript.

MioMia has it for $115.
https://www.shopmiomia.com/skin-care...ct.asp?pid=209

[Kevin Guyer]

MioMia has it for $115.
https://www.shopmiomia.com/skin-care...ct.asp?pid=209

Thanks for the tip. I live in NYC and this gives me a good excuse to go out to 'hipster' Williamsburg.

[bbBD]

[QUOTE=helg;1375722

3. You mist be thinking of Le Labo? Those are the ones with the assigned numbers and the vague names (Aldehyde, Poivre etc.). Parfumerie Generale has rather descriptive and evocative names ie. Corps et Ames (Body and soul), Un Crime Exotique (an exotic crime), L'eau de Circe (Circe's water) etc.
Unless I didn't catch your meaning, in which case, disregard the above.[/QUOTE]

Good point - I didn't think of the names, I was more thinking of the PG bottles, which don't have the names of the fragrance (except for the private collection), but rather just a number.

[scentsitivity]

I'm working though the Histoire line and can report that '1826' is far more of a patchouli fragrance than is 'noir patchouli'. '1826' is a bit of jumble structurally - the notes on the pyramid aren't presented in the same order on the skin - but the primary accord of patchouli, amber, and musk (with touches of citrus and florals) is great. Definitely the best I've found in the line so far. I also like the masculine '1725', but it didn't stand out in any meaningful way, and I liked my SOTD, Ambre 114. I was thinking about buying one until I realized they're $185 a bottle (120ml).

I have two groups of Histoires de Parfums samples: one I received from the manufacturer (recent) and one that is older.

The one thing I noted is that the new and old 1826 scents are very, very different compositions. The newer one impressed me, the older one was an unintersting jumble of incense and coconut.

And to see how jumbled things get, look at the Miomia website, which includes the following (older) description of 1826:

Encompassing fruity nuances with a tropical twist, this eau de parfum opens with notes of Corsican Peach, strawberry and Tahitian coconut. The middle notes are a harmonious blend of a beautiful white flower bouquet, tinged with orange blossom, Egyptian jasmine, and Bulgarian rose. Finally, Balsam and Woodnotes round out the feeling with incense, vanilla, cacao and benzoin blended with patchouli, cedar and sandalwood.

(at: https://www.shopmiomia.com/skin-care...ct.asp?pid=203)

This follows with the list of notes of the newer formulation (which matches the HdP website):

Top note : Bergamot, Tangerine
Heart Note : White flowers, Violet, Ginger, Cinnamon
Base Note : Patchouli, Amber, Incense from Jakarta, Vanilla

I wonder if Miomia is stocking the older formulation. I would infer so based on price structure and bottles displayed at the website.

Sorry for the tangent...