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  1. #1

    Default Phantom(?) leather note in Balmain Ivoire is driving me potty!

    Well, the title says it all really - I finally sampled a fresh tester of Ivoire de Balmain in Liberty's the other day, having previously bought two minis on Ebay, both of which were a little long in the tooth I reckoned, and smelt of urinous saddles.

    The fresh Ivoire had a pretty soapy opening, and though it was not remotely sour or acidic, the dry down turned edgy and earthy and androgynous - I was picturing asymmetrically-bobbed women in tuxedos in the 1920's - even though I know I am about 50 years out with such an image.

    But I have checked the notes, and can find no reference to leather. Is it galbanum? Oakmoss? Leatherette? A bit of mud that has rubbed off from my shoe? Can anyone put my nose out of its misery by explaining what this interloping leatheresque note really is?
    "So many scents, so little skin"...

    http://bonkersaboutperfume.blogspot.com/

  2. #2

    Default Re: Phantom(?) leather note in Balmain Ivoire is driving me potty!

    VM, usually not all the notes are listed, so it may have leather or castoreum in it. I looked in the BN directory, and it is definitely not listed there. Hermes Caleche smells faintly leathery to me, and leather is also not listed in those notes.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Phantom(?) leather note in Balmain Ivoire is driving me potty!

    That was such a delightful post, VM (urinous saddles indeed) that it piqued my interest.
    Not knowing the scent, but doing a bit of sleuthing, unearthed that patchouli is part of the mix. I'd guess that a combination of brownish oakmoss with the patchouli renders a leathery mix. Oakmoss and patchouli can be brilliant... or deadly.
    BTW - I think Hermes often strives for a leathery chord (Caleche & Kelly Caleche) since their leather handbags are so famous.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  4. #4

    Default Re: Phantom(?) leather note in Balmain Ivoire is driving me potty!

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    I'd guess that a combination of brownish oakmoss with the patchouli renders a leathery mix. Oakmoss and patchouli can be brilliant... or deadly.
    BTW - I think Hermes often strives for a leathery chord (Caleche & Kelly Caleche) since their leather handbags are so famous.
    Well, thanks to you both for restoring my sanity. That's interesting about the Hermes range - the olfactory equivalent of subliminal advertising, like those specially engineered smells in supermarkets.
    "So many scents, so little skin"...

    http://bonkersaboutperfume.blogspot.com/

  5. #5

    Default Re: Phantom(?) leather note in Balmain Ivoire is driving me potty!

    http://fragrancebouquet.blogspot.com...y-balmain.html
    Have a look at the above link! You may find it interesting. It is nothing to do with me,
    by the way.
    I love Ivoire and know what you mean about the pseudo-leather note. I suspect it is
    the galbanum.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Phantom(?) leather note in Balmain Ivoire is driving me potty!

    Thanks for the link - I found that review in my frantic googling of the notes in Ivoire and it does suggest that what I am getting as leather are the chypre base notes as you guys suggest:

    "it grows in spirit, becoming the most beautiful mixture of earthiness, resin and moss."
    Last edited by VM I hate civet; 14th October 2008 at 09:14 AM.
    "So many scents, so little skin"...

    http://bonkersaboutperfume.blogspot.com/

  7. #7

    Default Re: Phantom(?) leather note in Balmain Ivoire is driving me potty!

    I have always thought it was Galbanum as well, a similar note can be found in YSL's Y, which makes it very wearable by a man i think.

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