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Thread: bitter leather?

  1. #1

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    Default bitter leather?

    i'm not even sure if this is possible...as 'bitter' is more of a taste then a smell...but do you know of any scents that have bitterness to them?

    i have a couple scents that MAY qualify......Knize Ten has a slight bitterness due to the light tar associated to it. Encre Noire is such a dry vetiver, that teeters on the edge of bitter...but obviously has no leather in it (although i often layer it with a leather scent)

    When i used to own (sold it) Eau D'Hermes---i thought it had a bitter spicy touch to it...but no leather in it.

    in my head, i'm thinking of a scent that would be a 'bitter leather'...and i can't really think of anything that fits the bill. Cuir Ottoman is too smooth....Nostalgia is too smooth and pleasant....Cuiron is too plum-my....any ideas on something?

    i want something pungent...strong...unapologetically leathery....so much that it's bitter.

  2. #2

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    I'd suggest trying Creed's Cuir de Russie. Very dry, almost camphorous, if not as strongly "leather" as something like Cuir Ottoman.

    Though I haven't tried it, the Tom Of Finland frag out this year sound like it might be up your alley.

  3. #3

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Heeley Fine Leather
    Givenchy Gentleman
    Parfumerie Generale - Corp et ames
    Montale - Black Oudh

  4. #4

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    Givenchy Gentleman
    Funny, I get no leather at all from that, just patchouli.

  5. #5

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    Funny, I get no leather at all from that, just patchouli.
    Heeley Fine Leather ~ Knize Ten ~ Givenchy Gentleman - all three have unique leaether notes which cannot be compared with each other. think of it as leather treated with some notes and being specific to a region.

    the leather notes found in Gentleman is pretty similar to the one in PG Corp et Ames which in turn is similar leather used in Montale Black Oudh.

    Heeley Fine Leather kind of scents could be scents like Burberry London(lil bit sweeter), etc.. however, Heeley is a leather focussed scent. it;s true to the smell of saddle.

    Knize ten kind of finish is mostly english style. where they treat Leather with floral elements. scents tht come to mind is Trussardi Uomo.
    Last edited by jenson; 17th October 2008 at 11:35 PM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    S Perfume S-ex. Not exactly bitter, but slighty salty leather nevertheless

  7. #7
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    Default Re: bitter leather?

    The Tom of Finland by ELDO is not bitter, don't bother.

    Of course Knize Ten, which you already mentioned, comes to mind immediately.

    Have you smelled Cuir de Russie by Chanel?

  8. #8
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    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Bitter leather? Black Aoud certainly, but Aoud Cuir d'Arabie even moreso. Also Parfum d'Habit and Miller Harris Cuir d'Oranger.

  9. #9

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    I'd skip Tom of Finland too. How about Rien by Etat Libre d'Orange?

  10. #10

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    You can't go wrong with the Creed Cuir de Russie recommendation (although it may be hard to find). Its loaded with high quality silver birch tar. Chanels version is quite a bit more floral in its reformulation. Montale Cuir d Arabie is more leathery and medicinal. Montale Black Aoud has too much rose which neuters its supposed "bitter" leather notes. I recall Hermes Bel Ami to be bitter. .
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  11. #11

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Seems I've read that Bandit by Piguet has a bitter edge with it's leather.

  12. #12

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    Default Re: bitter leather?

    I have a Creed Cuir de Russie sample, and I find it to be very smooth - not particularly bitter at all. In fact I find Creed's Royal English Leather (which is far more available) to be stronger and smokier.

    Since I think I understand everso's leather fragrance taste, I don't think he'd like Chanel's Cuir de Russie as a leather fragrance.... it's more of a floral with leather notes. [He may like it, but not as a distinct leather fragrance]

    I will second the recommendation of Montale Oud Cuir d'Arabie - the combination of oud with the leather notes gives it that bite you may be looking for. I'm waiting for my TPC decant to arrive in today's mail.
    Last edited by bbBD; 18th October 2008 at 07:41 PM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    I thought of Cuir Ottoman but I noticed you've mentioned it already. Ineke's Evening Edged in Gold is the only other bitter leather fragrance I can think of at the moment. It doesn't stay bitter throughout the progression though.


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  14. #14

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    Default Re: bitter leather?

    thanks everyone. good suggestions!

    Heeley Fine Leather and Cuir Ottoman are definitely my top 2 choices right now for the next leather scent rankings.......

    does anyone have any opinions on the following:
    Aigner Suede
    Jil Sander 79 Man
    Cuir Venenum
    Last edited by everso; 19th October 2008 at 03:27 AM.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Pascal Morabito Or Black... Bitter might not be the word I'd use to describe it though. Perhaps pungent new boots birchy leather?
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  16. #16

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    I think Aramis has a bitter edge to it. Or any of the other chypre frags by the same designer (Estee Lauder Azuree, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, etc.)

    I am wearing Jolie Madame tonight, and if it has any relation to its sister Bandit, I'd say it is also bitter. All of these are bitter in a more green, herbal sense rather than a tarry bitterness.

    One more men's scent which may fit the bill is Miller Harris Cuir d'Oranger. It is a leather chypre, so dry, bitter, green and powdery, but with bitter orange top notes. The deep drydown is a bit sweet, though.

  17. #17

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    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by everso View Post
    does anyone have any opinions on the following:
    Aigner Suede
    Jil Sander 79 Man
    Cuir Venenum
    The Cuir Venenum is leather mixed with orange blossom (that's what the listed notes are, but to my nose it smells more like cherry instead of orange). It's PG, so it's rich and thick. The leather note isn't as dark as say, Cuir d'Iris, but it's definitely a quality leather accord. If you took Cuiron and made it 'thicker' you'd be in the ballpark of Cuir Venenum

    Since suggesting Aoud Cuir d'Arabie I've skin-tested it again, and if you're looking for a bitter leather, it really fits the bill. Unlike some Montales, the oud doesn't whack you over the head - it mixes very well with the leather. However the entire composition is incredibly potent.
    Last edited by bbBD; 19th October 2008 at 06:59 AM.

  18. #18

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    You can't go wrong with the Creed Cuir de Russie recommendation (although it may be hard to find). Its loaded with high quality silver birch tar. Chanels version is quite a bit more floral in its reformulation. Montale Cuir d Arabie is more leathery and medicinal. Montale Black Aoud has too much rose which neuters its supposed "bitter" leather notes. I recall Hermes Bel Ami to be bitter. .
    Bel Ami is one of my favorite leathers. I'd call it "bitter sweet."

  19. #19

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Prada Cuir Ambre is very bitter on my skin. Is it only me? The initial notes are too bitter that I have to wash it off.

  20. #20

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Heeley Fine Leather is a decent option though I found it quite weak from my recent sampling. The opening blast is quite good with quality leather but moments later it just falls apart into an average watered down leather frag.


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  21. #21

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    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    The Cuir Venenum is leather mixed with orange blossom (that's what the listed notes are, but to my nose it smells more like cherry instead of orange). It's PG, so it's rich and thick. The leather note isn't as dark as say, Cuir d'Iris, but it's definitely a quality leather accord. If you took Cuiron and made it 'thicker' you'd be in the ballpark of Cuir Venenum

    Since suggesting Aoud Cuir d'Arabie I've skin-tested it again, and if you're looking for a bitter leather, it really fits the bill. Unlike some Montales, the oud doesn't whack you over the head - it mixes very well with the leather. However the entire composition is incredibly potent.
    i really can't handle the Montales....for some reason they just don't click with me. it's that medicinal/rough touch they have which drives me a bit off when i sniff it. it's like there's this large forcefield surrounding those scents for me. they're being creative, i just wonder how wearable their scents are.....

    Cuir Venenum is definitely starting to interest me now. time to get some samples....something you're quite an expert aren't yer, mate!

  22. #22

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    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post
    Bel Ami is one of my favorite leathers. I'd call it "bitter sweet."
    yeah....and as discussed in an older thread, the 'original' Bel Ami is definitely the one to go with...as the reformulated one is like an Eau D'Hermes LITE, IMO.

  23. #23

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    I'd suggest trying Creed's Cuir de Russie.
    Imagine everso purchasing a Creed.... Ha, I love it...

  24. #24

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    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by bfree View Post
    Imagine everso purchasing a Creed.... Ha, I love it...
    HA! i was trying to ignore the Creed related comments....LOL

  25. #25

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    I know.... I really do wish you would give Creed a shot. At least their older stuff. But I still love ya anyway.
    Last edited by bfree; 20th October 2008 at 04:26 AM.

  26. #26

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by everso View Post
    HA! i was trying to ignore the Creed related comments....LOL
    hey, you don't have to tell us, but why don't you sneak in a sample of Royal English Leather and Cuir Russie anyways? i have a strong feelign you will like REL coz it's leather done with the "english" note. similar to Knize.
    Last edited by jenson; 20th October 2008 at 05:10 AM.

  27. #27

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    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    hey, you don't have to tell us, but why don't you sneak in a sample of Royal English Leather and Cuir Russie anyways? i have a strong feelign you will like REL coz it's leather done with the "english" note. similar to Knize.
    i've tried Creed's R.E.L. before and wasn't very charmed (obviously!); all i remember is leather and some weird dishwashy citrus type overtone....but i haven't tried the Cuir De Russie.

    but asking me to pay money for Creed samples is like asking me to pay money to have my arm hit with a hammer 44 times......why bring pain to my life?
    Last edited by everso; 20th October 2008 at 05:28 AM.

  28. #28

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by everso View Post
    i've tried Creed's R.E.L. before and wasn't very charmed (obviously!); all i remember is leather and some weird dishwashy citrus type overtone....but i haven't tried the Cuir De Russie.

    but asking me to pay money for Creed samples is like asking me to pay money to have my arm hit with a hammer 44 times......why bring pain to my life?
    lol kk m8

  29. #29

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by everso View Post
    i've tried Creed's R.E.L. before and wasn't very charmed (obviously!); all i remember is leather and some weird dishwashy citrus type overtone....but i haven't tried the Cuir De Russie.
    Virtues or faults of Creed aside, Cuir de Russie is very different for my nose. REL is sweet soap that I have to wash off in half an hour. Cuir de Russie is tarry, bitter and almost medicinal... not all that far from Noxzema, though that's probably some form of fragrance heresy to say.

    I like neither enough to own a bottle, but Cuir de Russie is the driest, bitterest leather I've smelled. Oud Cuir d'Arabie - a great suggestion; I also recommend it - is sweet by comparison.
    Last edited by Sugandaraja; 20th October 2008 at 06:55 AM.

  30. #30

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    OK, Bitter Leathers is the best thing I like in leather scents, so I got a lot.

    For the beginning - dismissing some not-better, not-leathers etc.
    Cuir Venenum is sweet and musk with flowers has more attention than leather. No bitter.
    Rien ELDO - is about patchouly, not leather.
    Bandit and Aramis, while leathers and bitter, has powdery chypre heart (Frankincense). If you don`t mind it - go forward, they are great! As Antaeus, VCA pour homme, and other leather chypres from 70-80-s.

    Cuir de Russie (Chanel, Creed, Piver LT etc) are flowery. They are noble - but they lack true masculine bitterness.

    I`d second Aoud Cuir d`Arabie by Montale and Or Black by Morabito. They both are pungent, bitter and leathery. Or Black is also musky and peppery, but it`s not a fault.
    Oh, and Parfum d`Habit (MPG) too!!!

    Then - my new suggestions to your list.
    Cabochard de Gres.
    EDT is green and bitter in the beginning, then - not sweet flowers and then - castoreum, moss and leather. Best chypre cuir suggestion, for my nose, is the perfume. But EDT is a beauty too. And it`s cheap!

    SMN Peau d`Espagne. Dry spices and leather. Very pungent and powerful. I like it, but wearing it with care about colleagues.

    Derby Guerlain. Carnation and leather. Very Cognac style, and vintage is much better, for my palates.

    Cuir (Revolte) de Lancome. Vintage version has all the top-heart notes destroyed, so in sillage amber and leather are alive.

    Dior Jules. Technically it`s not a leather family. But it`s bitter and leather is pronounced. Safari for men RL too.

    Rochas Macassar. Spicy-leathery mess. As bitter as dark.

    Azuree Estee Lauder. Honey-mushroom version of Cabochard.
    And Miss Dior as iconic chypre is very good too.
    And Cravache Piguet is leathery cologne - if you will find out the vintage EDT.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  31. #31

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    I'm surprised no-one's yet mentioned Lonestar Memories. As bitter as they come, almost makes you choke from the amount of tar in it. Or Patchouli 24 for that matter.

  32. #32

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    for bitter masculine leathers my advice goes for Aoud Cuir d'Arabie together with the gentler yet not gentlemanly Lonestar memories, both followed close to the fierce greeness of the leather in Bandit.

  33. #33

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    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by heythatslife View Post
    I'm surprised no-one's yet mentioned Lonestar Memories. As bitter as they come, almost makes you choke from the amount of tar in it. Or Patchouli 24 for that matter.
    great scent! i totally forgot to mention that one. I really dig Lonestar Memories.....and will definitely consider a bottle in the future. It's got a very natural, genuine saddle leather sniff to it..very cool. it's not really pungent or bitter...but pretty smooth (at least from what i found!)

  34. #34

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by heythatslife View Post
    I'm surprised no-one's yet mentioned Lonestar Memories. As bitter as they come, almost makes you choke from the amount of tar in it. Or Patchouli 24 for that matter.
    Love the sound of that

    I've got some Lonestar Memories coming my way, perfect timing I'd say!


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  35. #35

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    If by "bitter" you mean "lacking sweetness", I suggest sniffing Duro by Nasomatto. Very non-sweet leather

  36. #36

    Default Re: bitter leather?

    Tom Ford - Tuscan Leather. This starts off really bitter

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