i would ask whats his SOTD
In two weeks, our perfumery class is going to go visit the great master Nez at his home in Cabris. We are supposed to prepare some questions for the QA session.
I have a few technical questions that I wanted to ask him regarding his signature use of musks in his fragrances and his use of interesting "trace" raw materials. I would want him to elaborate a little bit more about his technique of "cheating" the GC/MS per the Perfect Scent. He is one of the many perfumers who makes a touch of effort to make it more difficult for his competitors to understand the whole, immaculate design of his fragrances. As a previous analyst, I would love to discuss the efficacy of his methods. I have a few other industry questions in store as well.
What would you like to ask him?
Last edited by scentophile; 22nd October 2008 at 06:47 PM.
i would ask whats his SOTD
"You smell kinda pretty! Wanna Smell me ?"
- Johnny Bravo
You could ask him how much Hermes pays him per fragrance
But seriously - congrats on the great opportunity and have fun!
The question about the GC/MS thing? He talked about how he combats counterfeiting in the Perfect Scent by Chandler Burr already. As I edited my post above... "He is one of the many perfumers who makes a touch of effort to make it more difficult for his competitors to understand the whole, immaculate design of his fragrances. As a previous analyst, I would love to discuss the efficacy of his methods."
Last edited by scentophile; 22nd October 2008 at 06:56 PM.
What drugs he was on whilst blending Terre D'Hermes?
It smells like an ecstasy to me, as though the perfumer was in Elysium, surrounded by 7 virgin angels who were squeezing the best oranges in the universe to quench the erotic flame burning in the perfumer's heart.
I decanted Terre D'Hermes into a small atomizer this afternoon, and I caused a mess my left hand was soaked in it, and it outdid the Iskander by Parfum d'Empire I was wearing by a light-year.
Current Top 5
1. Creed Aventus
2. A*Men Pure Malt
3. L'instant Extreme
4. Nasomatto Duro
5. CDG - Kyoto
I would ask him if he has advice about how to understand fragrance making (for a newbie) with only synthetics, so the newbie wouldn't have to worry about naturals that are a bit off (but the newbie wouldn't know). In other words, I'd be curious to know if he suggests something simple, like making a fougere with all synthetics, if he thought it was a bad idea totally (meaning that some naturals are crucial), or if had something else to say about this question.
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I think his way of demonstrating fragrance making with shortcuts like a touche of linalol and a touche of ionone beta to give a really simple accord of freesia is an excellent way of teaching.
Could he please design some fragrances that have better longevity. I love his designs, but none except for TdH last a decent length of time.
I have a theory. The largest customers of Hermes are the Japanese. Now, I've heard that (generally) Asians tend to prefer lighter, simpler fragrances, which is in line with Ellena's signature style. Therefore, it seems like Ellena is the perfect perfumer for Hermes to hire if they want to appeal even more to this market. I wonder if he thinks this kind of fragrance "target marketing" has anything to do with his hiring.
Where he lives exactly in Cabris ...
L'amour fait songer, vivre et croire. Il a, pour réchauffer le coeur, un rayon de plus que la gloire; et ce rayon, c'est le bonheur. (Victor HUGO)
Does being an elite perfumer get you in to bed with French supermodels, and if not, is he disappointed?
i would ask him if he thinks that atlast tdh did influence other perfumer and how could be a frag for men and women in the next years.
Do he come to basenotes
Do he know that tdh is the 3rd most reviewed frag here and is rated very high
what do he think about rive gauche ph and rochas lui
"Wow, I've never smelled anything like that before."
I'd keep it simple but relevant:
1. How has the industry changed since he started?
2. How does he envision the future of scents?
"Why not seize the pleasure at once?"
-- Jane Austen (Sun, and Mercury in Sagittarius)
I can think of no better place for my 1000th post.
I would ask him what one thing he would most want fragrance chemists to do. What does he need that they could give him? A certain type of aroma chemical? A general direction? A certain characteristic such as longevity? If fragrance chemistry were a genie, and he had one more wish, what would it be?
Like you, I am also curious about obfuscation of the GCMS, but would rather that whatever you learn remains a secret among you perfumers. My love of originality and distaste for counterfeiting takes precedence over my curiosity.
How important is the bottle design to the success of the scent?
Choose to believe, choose joy.
Scelga di credere, scelga la gioia.
Nice opportunity - congratulations.
I am not good yet in knowing personal styles of perfumers. So, it will be more like general questions.
Perfumer as a creator of fragrance is probably very interested about the public opinion his/her creation. I am curious what way he uses to figure it out. Is it only glossy publicity and sales rapports? Or do they interested in basenotes/blogs/perfumaniacs opinion as well? Very curious how is it going between the collegue perfumers giving their opinion about each others creation.
Another subject is IFRA recommendations. It's not obligatory. So, I am curious if he always follows them (he might be obligated to). And what does he think of them? What materials he regrets to be restricted or prohibited.
I am also interested about substitute of Oakmoss by Evernyl, but this question is probably for another group...
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I would ask him this:
-Would you have been less succesful if you had chosen to develop heavier perfumes instead of the lighter ones you are famous for? Why?
1. Why was the latest Mousson necessary?
2. What, if any, are fragrances that he is currently working on?
1) Is Terre d'Hermes all synthetic ?
2) Will you return to designing opulent old world french style fragrances like Van Cleef First ?
3) What's your favorite raw material ?
3.) “I admit that there are some materials I dislike, with which I feel uncomfortable, vanillin, heliotropin, all that is sweetened in general. I prefer salty and bitter. Anyway, I always made sure not to confuse cuisine with perfumery. Among my favourite ingredients are hedione, of course, helional, and those which I like to call "trace" materials, because they are so expressive: violet leaf, lovage, and everlasting flowers.”
What philosophical approach does he use when starting to design a new fragrance?
Seek not the favor of the multitude; it is seldom got by honest and lawful means. But seek the testimony of few; and number not voices, but weigh them. - Immanuel Kant
Hmm, how about:
1) Ask him to describe the greatest scent that he's made that has never made it to market. A basic description of it, what he loved about it, and why it wasn't marketable (or perhaps just wasn't marketed, despite being marketable.)
2) What has been the most enjoyable/rewarding feedback he has ever gotten from a user of one of his own perfumes? How, if at all, has that, or other feedback from actual wearers, impacted him and his future creations?
3) Similar to #1 but different: What is a scent he dreams of creating that simply isn't marketable, or perhaps isn't achievable with current synthetics/naturals?
4) A silly question but: Does he feel Montale's Red Vetyver is a copy of Terre d'Hermes? Simply inspired by TdH? How does he feel about that?
5) What, outside of perfumery, does he draw his greatest artistic inspiration from?
6) Does he feel personally fulfilled as a perfumer, or does he ever dream of a different life or career? Why?
7) Why doesn't he visit Basenotes and discuss perfumes with us?
Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 26th October 2008 at 12:24 AM. Reason: added more questions
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I would ask him, quite simply, how he had the nerve to reformulate and emasculate Bel Ami, and how he might feel if someone subsequently ruined his creations.
I would want to know what he considers were his top fragrance designs that he has done over his entire career? Just his favorite 2 or 3? Also, what have been his most successful fragrances in terms of commercial success? Why the difference between these two groups?
How similar are Terre d'Hermes and Cartier Declaration. And which is his favorite.
Looking for a sample of Gucci Envy Me.
Yes Mostapha :--) and if he did create declaration essence too ?
buzzleuff i did read here that ellena did like from his creations declaration most.
Last edited by sanatik; 27th October 2008 at 09:32 AM.
"Wow, I've never smelled anything like that before."