Despite what The Guide states, Hermes Hiris is good, carrot-top iris.
As a few fellow Basenoters know, I have a thing for iris fragrances. I love the note, but iris fragrances have a tendency to be problematic for me. I've sampled a bunch - and now want to sample a whole bunch more.
Here are my thoughts on the ones I've tried, in order of how much I like them:
Iris Silver Mist ( weird, rooty and wonderful )
Iris Taizo ( dry, polished and spicy )
Bois D'Argent ( Iris Taizo's little sister )
Cuir d'Iris ( iris and a mega-dose of rich leather )
Iris Nobile ( pleasant... but where's the iris? )
Bois D'Iris ( nice but disappears in a minute )
Hilde Solani's Iris ( tangy apple iris... nice but not me )
Citta di Kyoto ( iris and pencils - no thanks )
Iris 39 ( apple vinegar iris... way too sour )
Iris Gris ( it's iris... no wait, my mistake - it's just soap )
Iris Bleu Gris ( I'm getting eaten by the soap monster; help, get it off me! )
Not-quite-iris fragrances, but I have tried and liked:
Bois D'Ombrie ( a wacky fragrance that shares the iris-carrot combo I love in ISM along with other stuff... this is a Bosch painting in fragrance form! )
Midnight Violet ( musky violet fun )
Cuir Ottoman ( smooth, sophisticated leather with a big dollop of iris )
Ones I'm thinking of trying:
Orris Noir ( the notes sound like heaven... the reviews make me worry )
Dior Homme ( after several recommendations here and elsewhere )
SMN's Iris ( I rarely see this mentioned... is there a reason for that? )
Miller Harris Terre D'Iris ( also not heard much about this )
Any other recommendations and thoughts? ( Particularly curious about Orris Noir - any good? )
Despite what The Guide states, Hermes Hiris is good, carrot-top iris.
Dzongkha is an iris-leather that has been on my mind since sampling it a few months ago. I just ordered a bottle tonight.
Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost
Just this evening I sampled (and wrote a review of) Santa Maria Novella's Iris. If it's rarely mentioned, it's because SMN is fairly obscure house with limited distribution. Their fragrances are of A++ quality and I haven't found one that isn't well done. I ordered a sample from Aedes, and even though it's slightly too feminine for me, it's a must-try for iris fans (as I am, though not to that extent).
The other iris you should try is Iris Pallida by L'Artisan. It's real pricey - $300 - but you can get samples from Luckyscent. I actually prefer the SMN version.
Finally, you missed Hermes' Hiris. It starts out rooty, but ends up slightly sweet... even though it was panned in 'the guide', I think it's pretty fantastic, it's very unisex, and it made the BN top-10 wears list a few weeks ago.
I forgot - MPG Fleur d'Iris is a vanilla/iris combo. I used to like it a lot, but it's become a little too floral for my tastes.
I'll definitely have to try those! It's unlikely I'll be buying Iris Pallida... but I'll be sampling it.
Iris Poudre by Malle is an absolute must.
..and don't forget to try 31 rue Cambon by Chanel as well.
Divine's L'homme de coeur.
Bois d'Iris by the Different Company is a very dry luxurious-feeling scent. It is comparable to Dior Homme but much drier and more sophisticated IMHO. I personally think Dior Homme Intense is the nicest Iris fragrance available because I enjoy "creamier" scents rather than dry ones. I just ordered Cuir d'Iris and I don't get ANY iris at all...I was pleasantly surprised with the amount of leather in this one
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"Fragrance is a silent conversation. Would you keep talking, if no-one replied?''
One can never have enough iris scents, IMO.
You put together an excellent list, GB, and others have mentioned most of the missing scents that came to my mind. It looks like nearly everything on your list is niche, and that may be your preference, but you might also try Infusion d'Iris and Infusion d'Homme. Easy to find, and inexpensive. l'Occitaine Iris might also warrant a sniff.
I have a sample of Iris Pallida, and while I like the smell of it, it's barely detectable on me from the moment of application and disappears entirely within a half hour. Oddly, there are no reviews of IP yet in the directory. (Foetidus, where are you?!)
My personal iris faves:
- Dior Homme is the iris pentathalon champ - chock full of good smelling stuff and balanced in such a way that everything works together. Iris with leather, vanilla, and woods - smashing combination! Not as much a fan of the Intense, though, in which vanilla and buttery notes overwhelm.
- Bois d'Iris - bone dry iris and woods. Love it love it. Alas, I used up my decant and the wife has put a moratorium on purchases. Many folks complain that it doesn't last, but I don't seem to have that problem.
Last edited by Snafoo; 23rd November 2008 at 12:02 AM.
Everyone is entitled to his own opinions, but not his own facts. Daniel Moynihan
If you are looking for a strange iris - frosty cool with an opening of 'green beans' - look no further than The Unicorn Spell by Les Nez.
Honestly, one of my favorite Iris frags (though I've yet to try many of the niche offerings outside of Iris Bleu Gris) is Prada's Infusion d'Homme.
Iris Pallida 50ml
Ungaro I 75ml
and more! - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more
Robin states: "Iris Pallida continues to darken the longer it is on skin, making it perfect for fall weather, but it is never heavy in the least. On the contrary, it is very soft and quiet, and wears almost like a woody comfort scent. It has a velvety-powder finish and is more dry than not. It could easily be worn by either sex."
Personally, I don't find it darkens much at all; it remains light and uplifting the entire time I can smell it, which isn't long, unfortunately.
A search of this forum didn't yield much. These threads have a few words to say:
I have a sample of Iris Pallida and guard it somewhat jealously, given the cost of a bottle. It's a lovely scent, no doubt, and has some similarity in tone to l'Artisan's The Pour Un Ete, in that it is lightly floral (or perhaps it's the violet leaf?), with a touch of cedar. Unfortunately, as I said before, longevity on me is quite poor. Sillage is close to the skin.
Last edited by Snafoo; 22nd November 2008 at 02:37 PM.
Everyone is entitled to his own opinions, but not his own facts. Daniel Moynihan
What about HEELEY's Iris de Nuit?
I'll second firstark's suggestion of L'Homme de Coeur. It's a great composition for how it balances the rooty and floral sides of iris root. The vetiver note here has an ethereal quality that I've otherwise only smelled in Sel de Vetiver, another favorite. L'HdC is wonderfully light and goodsmelling.
Chanel No.19 is pretty much all about Iris
Chanel 28 La Pausa has one of the most beautifully rendered orris/iris notes ever made. I recently smelled some pure orris and 28 La Pausa comes very close to an almost pure orris/iris experience. This fragrance is very light and fleeting and you might need to apply liberally and reapply after a few hours.
Be sure to revisit other great recommendations in sofresh's Comprehensive List of Iris Scents thread.
Last edited by Buzzlepuff; 24th November 2008 at 01:17 PM. Reason: corrected error
Odori issued "Iris" in 2008 - I will try it next week, hopefully.
II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.
Despite (or perhaps because of) its odd peanut-buttery top note, L'Artisan's Bois Farine is worth a sniff.
I agree with Snafoo - the Prada Infusion d'Iris and Infusion d'Homme should be sampled.
You're going to get iris overload Galamb_Borong.
I too am an iris freak...my fav's (I've tried all mentioned)
-Iris Silver Mist
-L'Homme de Coeur
-28 La Pausa
Other suggestions - Chanel's Cuir de Russie and No. 18.
SMN's iris is very harsh and unpleasant, as is Heeley's (to me anyway).
Don't forget to try Apres l'Ondee. The iris is mostly in the drydown.
Have you tried the recently discontinued Ferre?
I bought a tester for $25.00 a few months ago. Luca Turin was very positive about it in "The Guide", compared it to Iris Poudre. I believe they both are by the same nose (but right now I cannot remember his name).
I agree with the suggestion about 28 La Pausa. Delicious.
I forgot to mention 28 La Pausa last night, but it looks like everyone else picked up the slack... I sampled it thie morning and it's probably my favorite iris fragrance. It's just in perfect balance between root/sweet, powder and clarity. The drydown goes on forever and it's exceptionally beautiful. It's a touch feminine, but not so much so that a guy can't comfortably wear it. It's on my list of 'Exclusifs I want to split'. I swear, if those Exclusifs were 100ml I'd have almost all of them.
I've sampled Iris Pallida, and its a touch sweet and not very rooty at all. It's pretty, but not $300 pretty.
Malle's Iris Poudre is very... well, very Malle. Bold, stong, definitive with tremendous longevity and sillage (for an iris). I like it and own it, but I'm rarely in the mood to wear it.
"- Harry, I have no idea where this will lead us, but I have a definite feeling it will be a place both wonderful and strange."
I don't get they hype about many of the scents mentioned (just to stir the pot). Iris Pallida is "okay" (at best), but nowhere near the money they want for it. I smell almost no iris at all in Iris Poudre, as well as Ferre (which smell almost identical to me). They're both very nice, but like Iris Noble, I like the for different reasons other than the iris content. Odori's Iris is a blatant knock-off of Bois d'Argent, except for expensive and not as good.
Just my 2 cents. Frankly, after smelling ISM, it's hard for any other iris scent to stack up.
Great selection. Dzongkha is a blend of stone, incense, leather, and wood accords using several different notes. One of the notes happens to be iris. Iris does not dominate or drive the scent but I feel its presence in the smoothness of the stone accord.
I agree with this description. Dzonghka and Iris Bleu Gris are the only frags with a serious iris presence that I would consider as possibly FBW for me. (I would add Cuir Ottoman to that list as well, but I don't get a big iris note in that one, although some people seem to. It's a great leather, though!)
Dior Homme (powdery iris with leather and cocoa)
Creed Love in Black (buttery iris with violet and woody cedar + blackcurrant)
Hermes Hiris (carroty rooty iris - green hay. Light and airy)
And the last PG scent - Felanilla - also has an iris note included with saffron to make vanilla and hay absolutes to feel furry
Vetiver The Great!!!
Bois is Iris as mentioned above has a lovely combination going on...theres a stark lime note and Iris with woody notes, i have never experienced this combo before....don't let a sample misguide ya in terms of staying power...try a spray decant.
Dior Homme has to be the king of all...sexy stuff.
I'm a big fan of iris note too and, aside the good ones you mentioned I'd suggest you to try:
- Hermès Hiris
- Chanel No. 19
- Chanel 28, La pausa
- Chanel No. 18
- Divine L'homme de coeur
- Prada Infusion d'iris
- Parfums d'Empire Equistrius
- Eau d'Italie Sienne l'Hiver
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I'm just beginning to delve into the world of iris frags so I need some help from you guys. I have tried Infusion d'Homme and and really didn't like it, I was afraid that all iris scents would be like that, very musty and powdery. But last night I tried L'homme de coeur and it was freaking amazing! I loved it, it was masculine, fresh, and easily wearable. BUT....... it didn't last a mere hour and a half. Can anyone recommend a similar iris frag with a little more kick?
A suggestion with a caveat: I get mostly a unique, sweet type of iris from Antonia's Flowers Tiempe Passate. However, I've never seen anyone else mention iris in that fragrance. Also, it's a rather classically feminine powdery scent, so it might not be what you're looking for. Still, I found it interesting.
It is known that there are an infinite number of worlds, simply because there is an infinite amount of space for them to be in. However, not every one of them is inhabited. Any finite number divided by infinity is as near nothing as makes no odds, so the average population of all the planets in the Universe can be said to be zero. From this it follows that the population of the whole Universe is also zero, and that any people you may meet from time to time are merely products of a deranged imagination.
Another rec for Hiris and I'll add Yves Rocher Iris Noir and Guerlain Iris Ganache
Like Magnifiscent, I recommend you to try Sienne L´Hiver, I think you would find, at least, interesting
We accept reality easily, perhaps because we intuit that nothing is real...
So Galamb - have you found an iris scent that cures your sanity?
as i wrote in my earlier SMN thread.....i REALLY think you should try the SMN Iris----it is truly great as an iris scent....as for why people don't write about it, i have no idea! SMN is not really pumped much on this board anyway.....kinda better that way
Not to say that if some iris fragrance totally captivated me I wouldn't rush off and spend more than I had to spend on it.
Ones I've tried since:
Sienne D'Hiver - Olives! Sorry, I just can't get over that rather drastic note. Needs some pimento in there.
Orris Noir - This is very nice and well made, but the notes made me expect something, I don't know... edgier? It's a bit too mellow for me.
Infusion D'Homme - I've tried this a couple times, and it's my most interesting of the three to my nose. It's very cold smelling, but in neither a mint nor an aquatic way. It's also a very pure, rather minimalist iris ( though reading the BN reviews, I realize I'm alone in this impression! ) I'll probably wear it one more time and then save the rest for summer and see how is smells then.
Only one mention for Equistrius? It's a nice one. I like Infusion D'Homme better though to be honest.
Sale/sample thread. http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=218207
I had the same experience w/ Orris Noir that you had - too, too light.
Same with Sienne D'Hiver - that vinegar-y/salty brine quality really ruins it for me, which crops up in a few other Duchaufour creations.
Infusion D'Homme is easy to love - I call it the Iris 101 fragrance. If someone is unfamiliar w/ iris scents, I always direct them to this scent first. It's a little gentler and easier to love than Dior Homme. But then again, DH also came out w/ Dior Homme Cologne, which is just Dior's version of Infusion D'Homme. Nonetheless, you need to smell Dior Homme one of these days. All lovers of iris should.
Last edited by mikeperez23; 31st December 2008 at 04:59 PM.
I'm surprised no one likes MPG Bleu Gris. I just tried this and found it rooty and nicely complex. Infact I'm liking all the men's MPG's. I want to try the women's iris next because the men's is a bit too dry for me.
Last edited by kumquat; 1st January 2009 at 03:40 AM.
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I don't remember if you have tried 28 La Pausa.
It is a very nice pure Iris
I didn't see L'Heure Bleu mentioned...an absolutely classic iris.
“I wanna say something. I’m gonna put it out there. If you like it, you can take it, if you don’t, send it right back…."
Even more "two cents" on iris: We both adore Iris Taizo, GB, so I think you would really appreciate the drydown on 31 rue Cambon which is to my nose is very similar -- warm, intensely vegetal iris, a little more refined and less woody smelling than in beautiful IT and still really wonderful. They are like sister and brother scents. The top of 31 is quite ladylike though, and might not suit you.
I found Iris 39 to be very violet-heavy somehow -- it took a fair amount of iris-sensitivity training before I was able to pick up the Iris. It smells purple: vivid and not quite organic.
I hate L'homme de Coeur with a passion so can't comment on Iris quality in there. Seems to bring out the worst in the note to me.