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  1. #1
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    Default A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    I'm wearing Mitsouko (parfum) by Guerlain today and I am reminded of how wonderful the peach note is in this chypre.

    Maybe it's the fact that the perfumer blended it with care and precision? Maybe it's the quality of the ingredients? Maybe because it's vintage Mitsouko and the ingredients in this juice (which are now banned) contribute to the overall effect? Maybe because it's the parfum version of the scent?

    Whatever the reason - it's beautiful.

    So many fragrances utilize fruit notes in such a loud, bracing and sharp way, that when I encounter a scent that presents it's fruit note deftly and gentle - I sit up and take notice. Peach is not really a favorite fruit of mine, and of course there are a ton of bath, body and cleaning products scented with peach (and apple, and berries) that I can pick up at my local supermarket. Perhaps for this reason, fruit scents tend to bore my nose. Smelling cheap, fruit scented products, I realize how synthetic and loud they come off.

    Whereas with Mitsouko, the peach is dusty and imperceptibly aged. More like the olfactory impression of walking into a sunny kitchen, and there are peaches stacked up in a wooden bowl. You walk by the bowl and catch a gentle, natural whiff of the fruit. Just amazing.

    A few other fragrances manage to do the same: Route du Vetiver by MPG and it's dark berry accord that deepens and dirties the vetiver. The bitter orange in Numero Uno by Carthusia - another fantastic chypre for men. The oh-so-subtle coconut accord which enhances Virgin Island Water by Creed.

    Of course, there are many fragrances that feature very LOUD fruit notes, that I wear: Black Orchid by Tom Ford's decaying fruit note is one example. Ananas Fizz by L'Artisan is extremely pineapple prominent - there's no denying it and it is NOT subtle. Same for the strawberry in Black XS by Paco Rabanne. But then, it seems making a loud fruity scent is...easier, it seems, than producing a subtle and distinguished one.

    What is an example of a subtle fruit note in one of your favorite fragrances?
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  2. #2

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    There is a subtle citrusy note in Rose Poivree that is really well done, it enhances the rose without being too up front.
    Last edited by surreality; 26th November 2008 at 05:49 PM.
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  3. #3

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    the green mango note in un Jardin sur le nil by hermes..it smells more like the "taste" of unripe mango than the smell of the fruit itself...

    i get a extemely beautiful note of banana in the opening accords of CK Escape too...
    Last edited by jenson; 26th November 2008 at 05:53 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Hear hear on subtlety and Mitsouko's peach. I find in general Guerlain a master of subtlety. The mandarin in vintage Chant d'Arômes is weaved beautifully into the oak moss and vetiver, the peach in Guet-Apens is as beautiful as in Mitsouko, and the fruitiness of Nahema makes you endlessly wonder what you really smell there... Oh, and the plum of Parure, it's so weird that you can't but smile at it...

  5. #5

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Un Jardin sur le Nil. I am not convinced the note I smell is Mango or not but it is very well done.
    The Bergamote in divine bergamote is, well, Divine.
    Philosykos: awesome fig.

    Finally, I have to say that on my skin the coconut in VIW* is anything but subtle
    Last edited by irish; 26th November 2008 at 06:51 PM.
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  6. #6
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    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by surreality View Post
    There is a subtle citrusy note in Rose Poivree that is really well done, it enhances the rose without being too up front.
    I never noticed that note in RP surreality - I'll have to find my sample of that.

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    the green mango note in un Jardin sur le nil by hermes..it smells more like the "taste" of unripe mango than the smell of the fruit itself...
    Quote Originally Posted by irish View Post
    Un Jardin sur le Nil. I am not convinced the note I smell is Mango or not but it is very well done.
    Totally agree!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Guerlain View Post
    The mandarin in vintage Chant d'Arômes is weaved beautifully into the oak moss and vetiver...
    Oh yes - although I must admit to my nose, CdA is so much more about the vetiver. But yes, Guerlain, has pretty much mastered the art of subtle fruit notes. Even in the new, boring Aqua Allegoria's, the fruit tends be overall well done.
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  7. #7

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Not particular subtile, but very skillfully done and spectacular is 'Pulp' by a rather new house called 'ByRedo'.

    It's the most lifelike reproduction of juicy, red fruit I have ever smelled in a perfume, bar none. Thing is, I can't think of an occasion on which to wear it, without having people accusing me of being a 'fruitcake'.
    Last edited by Domingo; 26th November 2008 at 06:25 PM.
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  8. #8

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    S.T. Dupont is a house which seems to utilize fruit notes in a grown-up non-bubblegummy way. I particularly love the original scent for women (in the dark blue velour box) with its blackcurrant note that manages to be dewy and astringent at the same time. The Signature for Women from the same house uses tangerine in a way that is warm and sophisticated, no baby-aspirin references.

  9. #9

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Two come to mind immediately: Sel de Vetiver with its hint of grapefruit. It's like a painting of a bright day at the beach and all that's needed is a few dabs of light, bright white-yellow (the grapefruit) from the paintbrush to give it the last little touch, the sun shimmering and reflecting on the water. It's more felt than smelled. Another use of fruit, orange this time, not as a starring role but as an interwoven part of the whole, for me at least, is Noir Epices, which gives it an aldehyde-like sheen, again felt and not necessarily smelled.
    Last edited by nthny; 26th November 2008 at 07:22 PM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    KC Reaction has watermelon and green apple notes, and it's subtle and masculine and very nice.
    Last edited by aeromatic; 26th November 2008 at 09:55 PM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Un jardin sur le Nil has already been mentioned. I'd add its sibling, un jardin en mediterranee for its fig note. Although sometimes I find it a bit wearying after a while as it makes me feel like i've covered myself in fig jam.

  12. #12

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Guerlain's Acqua Allegoria Pamplelune is like an olfactory hologram of a juicy, overripe grapefruit. Way beyond mere "citrus." not subtle, as it is the whole point of the fragrance, but skillfull for sure

    I am extremely impressed by the mouthwatering rasperry notes of Diesel's Fuel for Life Man. Best of this kind of thing in a designer scent for a long time. Not exactly subtle either, though.

    Another great one is Millesimé by ronaldo Esper - my choice for male green mango

    And I adore the indeterminate fruity note in Egoiste.

    There's the brilliant apricot note in Daim Blond and nothing beats the dried fruit extravaganza of Arabie.

    I second or third etc. Philosykos as to fig.
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  13. #13

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    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    The plum note in Cuiron comes to mind, as does the orange blossom in Cuir Venenum. For straight fruit fragrances, I love Pink Grapefruit by Floris and blackberry in Mure et Musc.

    If you like the peach in Mitsouko, try Guerlain's Chypre Fatale. It's a very aggressive peach chypre with lots of focus on a bright peach accord that lasts until the base.

  14. #14

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    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    I love the piercingly tart boysenberry note in the otherwise fairly traditional accord in Chevalier d'Orsay.
    Last edited by Joe_Frances; 27th November 2008 at 03:09 AM.
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  15. #15
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    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    I've really been liking the fruit note(s) in Amouge's Jubiliation XXV. It reminds me of the "flinstones fruitty pebbles" cereal I used to eat when I was a kid.

  16. #16

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by Futami View Post
    I've really been liking the fruit note(s) in Amouge's Jubiliation XXV. It reminds me of the "flinstones fruitty pebbles" cereal I used to eat when I was a kid.
    Heh, I was just smelling that one. I never thought of Fruity Pebbles, but I love the thought. But yeah, great big fruity topnote on that one. Reminds me of grape hard candy (boiled sweets)

  17. #17

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    I get peach in the sweet drydown of Green Valley, believe it or not.
    2nd has to be the papaya in Hermes Concentre d"Orange Verte.
    Last edited by DULLAH; 27th November 2008 at 05:08 AM.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Just got Serge Lutens Bois et Fruits: A nice blend of sweet fruit notes (plum, fig, apricot, peach), rendered more subtle and slightly sharpened by cedarwood, and then gently spruced up by warm East Indian spice notes. Not at all foody or sugary, yet vaguely reminiscent of the sweeter aromas of a Moroccan tagine.
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  19. #19

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil has a subtle and uplifting mango note that i admire
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  20. #20

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Costume National Scent Intense has a great nondescript berry smell to it.
    Last edited by IKL; 27th November 2008 at 07:58 PM.

  21. #21

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by Domingo View Post
    Not particular subtile, but very skillfully done and spectacular is 'Pulp' by a rather new house called 'ByRedo'.

    It's the most lifelike reproduction of juicy, red fruit I have ever smelled in a perfume, bar none. Thing is, I can't think of an occasion on which to wear it, without having people accusing me of being a 'fruitcake'.
    Agree on the Pulp
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  22. #22

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by irish View Post
    Philosykos: awesome fig.
    Make that two subtle and extremely beautiful fruit notes. With the coconut note being slightly less subtle than the fig.
    Last edited by Mostapha; 27th November 2008 at 09:42 PM.
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  23. #23
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    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    I like the apricot and peach combined with cinnamon in Dior's Dolce Vita.
    Currently wearing: Mitsouko by Guerlain

  24. #24

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mostapha View Post
    Make that two subtle and extremely beautiful fruit notes. With the coconut note being slightly less subtle than the fig.
    Euhm no, that IS the fig also! Fig smells like coconut in perfume, don't ask me why, it just happens to be that way.
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  25. #25
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    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    A few compositions with subtle fruit notes I like:

    The plum note in Voleur de Roses..
    The unripe mango in Timbuktu..
    The orange in Baume Du Doge..

    I could be wrong on this... but I detect a very subtle and beautiful citrus note (blood orange?) in Patou Pour Homme Privé. Anyone else get this besides me?

  26. #26

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    love the pineapple note in Nuits De Noho...
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  27. #27

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Hands down, any fruit skilfully used with tobacco with just about any fruit. Histoires de Parfums (is it 1887?) does a great job of this with plum and tobacco. But boozy tobacco and raspberry, apricot, cherry, apple, my god. A weakness of mine. And throw some dirty civet in for good measure, like a British men's club's stinky old smoking jacket.
    Mmmm.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Mitsouko is the best I've experienced when it comes to subtle fruit notes and peach in fragrance. It's so natural and light - the fruit itself, rather than the loud candied fruit notes that are in every household product nowadays.

    Biehl's AL02 has a wonderful hot apple cider note that is very subtle, as is the whole fragrance on my skin. I'm not sure why it's there, as the fruit notes are supposed to be plum, peach and mandarin, but there it is anyhow.

    PdE's Ambre Russe has a note that smells very much like a rich peach conserve or liqueur. I wouldn't call it subtle per se, but it's not obvious either, especially blended the wine-like notes.

    I really need to do a full length review of Ambre Russe some time. I'm loving it more and more as time goes on
    Last edited by Sugandaraja; 3rd January 2009 at 10:28 PM.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    I really like what Thierry Mugler did with fruit in B*MEN. Very exciting, new feel. However, it is bracing.

    As for your appreciation of the subtlety, precision and quality in MITSOUKO, you are very right; it's magical. The three frags that came immediately to mind when reading your thread were, not too strangely, of the same house. VISA, BAGHARI, and CRAVACHE from Robert Piguet give me a similar "ride" to MITSOUKO. VISA is the most similar in composition and the fruitiest, but the others have great depth and development as well.
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  30. #30

    Default Re: A subtle and skillful use of fruit notes in fragrances - your favorite?

    Nicole Miller for men ?

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