Hi there Perfumistas and Colognoisseurs its time to pick through the leftovers that are Week 39 of SotW. Let’s look in the refrigerator and see what we have to work with. There were 1232 total posts this week with 667 different scents mentioned. 427 of those scents were mentioned just once for an individuality index of 34.7%. There were also 46 (6.9%) scents mentioned for the first time. We also went past 4,000 different scents mentioned on Thursday. This week saw the lowest individuality index so far and continues the trend of a lower index as the weather gets colder. There might also be another factor in play here, as well. As we get firmly into the holidays there are fewer new releases to tempt us and so as a community we return to our favorites which are shared by many in the community and this leads to lower individuality numbers. This seems particularly true as the total posts number has stayed pretty consistent throughout the last few weeks while the index has dropped.
This week’s top 10 was dominated by two houses which placed seven of the eleven scents in this week’s list. For those who have been playing along it should be no surprise which two houses these were. The top house, Guerlain had 122 total wears over 34 different scents. Guerlain placed four scents in the top 10; Vetiver at #2, L’Heure Bleue at #5, Shalimar at #6 and Jicky at #7. The other house making the big splash this week,; Serge Lutens, which had a record week with 72 wears over 22 scents. Chergui was the #1 scent this week with 19 wears and that is far and away the most wears in a week for Chergui. There were two other Serge Lutens scents in the top 10 with Encens et Lavande at #7 and Ambre Sultan at #10. This was a very abnormal week for Serge Lutens as it has been the consistent #2 to Guerlain most weeks but usually the wears are spread out more evenly over a high number of scents and maybe one makes the top 10. To put three in the top 10 really makes this a stand-out week for the House. The big 5 were responsible for two more entries in the top 10 making it a total of nine out of 11 entries from four houses. Chanel which had 62 wears over 19 scents had Antaeus tied for #3. The scent it was tied with was from Creed which had 49 wears over 17 scents and the scent tied at #3 was Bois du Portugal. The straggler in the big 5 was, once again, Hermes with 25 wears over 14 scents. Hermes was led by Terre D’Hermes with 7 wears but in a week where the other members of the big 5 showed why they are so strong Hermes is beginning to show that as a House it is a one-trick pony named Terre D’Hermes. The big 5 totals were 330 wears (26.8%) over 106 scents (15.9%).
So if Hermes no longer belongs in the big 5 who would replace it? There are three candidates but as you’ll see none of them boast stellar credentials on their own. First would be Christian Dior which this week had 34 wears over 15 scents and was led by Dior Homme which was #7 for the week. While those numbers are impressive Christian Dior is really the same as Hermes in that its totals pretty much fluctuate based on the performance of Dior Homme and for long stretches this summer Dior Homme disappeared and so did the House. L’Artisan is almost like a smaller version of Serge Lutens most weeks with a lot of wears over many different scents without one usually standing out. This week L’artisan posted 37 wears over 14 scents with Dzing! leading with 8 wears. L’artisan has more breadth to its support from the community but it also has had some inexplicably low weeks but the diversity of the support makes it a better candidate to replace Hermes. The last possibility is Yves St. Laurent which had 33 wears over 15 scents led by Rive Gauche pour Homme with 7 wears. YSL actually splits the middle as in Kouros, M7 and Opium pour Homme it has a number of scents that can have a good week and so while Rive Gauche pour Homme is usually the weekly leader there are others to pick up the slack. YSL has also had some really low weeks but overall if I was going to replace Hermes with a house it very likely would be Yves St. Laurent. Since we are so far into the experiment it is unlikely that I will do it but I thought it was worth some discussion this week.
In other House news Amouage, Caron, and Versace all had slightly up weeks. While on the flip side Ava Luxe, Ralph Lauren, and Montale all had down weeks. Montale is continuing the slide also mirrored by its partner in banner ads, Neil Morris. This week for the first time Neil Morris had zero wears. The reduction in visibility has clearly had an effect on these houses and they are both interesting case studies in the value of advertising to this community.
The remaining scent in the top 10 to be mentioned is, Tauer L”Air du Desert Marocain which this week is at #10. That a clear niche scent like L’Air du Desert Marocain continues to post high wear totals week in and week out shows the high regard this scent is held to by this community.
Here now is the top 10 for November 22nd-28th, 2008
1.) Serge Lutens Chergui 19 wears (1.5%)
2.) Guerlain Vetiver 14 wears (1.1%)
3.) Creed Bois du Portugal 13 wears (1.0%)
3.) Chanel Antaeus 13 wears (1.0%)
5.) Guerlain L’Heure Bleue 12 wears (1.0%)
6.) Guerlain Shalimar 11 wears (0.9%)
7.) Guerlain Jicky 10 wears (0.8%)
7.) Dior Homme 10 wears (0.8%)
7.) Serge Lutens Encens et Lavande 10 wears (0.8%)
10.) Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan 9 wears (0.7%)
10.) Tauer L’Air du Desert Marocain 9 wears (0.7%)
Four scents just missed this week; Guerlain Mitsouko, L’Artisan Dzing!, Burberry London for Men, and Parfums de Nicolai New York. Pretty low week for new scents this week as it was led by Ralph Lauren Polo Modern Reserve with 5 wears. One wear back was Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras. Time to put the remainders back in the refrigerator and bring a close to the feast that was Week 39.
As always, you keep wearing ‘em and I’ll keep counting ‘em
Have a well-fragranced week.
More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/
Very interesting. Good to see a shake-up at the top! I think we women played a part in Chergui's ascendance.
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“Pleasure is the flower that passes; remembrance, the lasting perfume” ~ Jean de Boufflers