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  1. #1

    Default Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    Ok, maybe it's my penchant for rooting for the underdog; I don't know. But lately I've felt compelled to try as many of the newer designer scents as I can get my hands on and really give them a fair shake - see if they really are as bad as everyone has been saying or if it's just a case of the general BN crew growing cynical and jaded. It seems that the more we try, the more we need scents to be truly strange to be intriguing, and we often quickly dismiss something that smells similar to something we've tried before, or something that at first glance seems vapid and merely "light and fresh" - just as many musicians write off pop music entirely because of the general lack of substance in the genre. Of course, there are exceptions, and just like the true musician will at least learn from all he hears - even if not particularly favoring it - so to should we as perfumistas and colognoisseurs try to remain as open minded as possible and find the positives as well as the negatives in every scent we try. With that preamble aside, let me get into Deseo for men.

    Deseo includes the following listed notes:
    lemon, yuzu, red berries, cedar and tobacco leaves, guaicwood, orris, sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, amber and vanilla.

    Deseo for men has a strange and unique opening. It's fruity and vibrant but not entirely transparent as many citrus openings are. In fact, I can't really call it a citrus opening. The yuzu is present, and offers a sparkling yellowy citrus aroma to the opening, but also present are the berries and a dash of cedar leaf (which alone is extremely aromatic, green, and fairly sweet). The midnotes also are present in the background, and the contrast of the sparkling yuzu, the berries and green tones, and the slightly muddled almost grayscale tones of the midnotes is really quite interesting. For some reason it makes me think of watching a classic TV show such as "I Love Lucy" - which was traditionally in black and white, and then having the same episode playing, in sync, on an adjacent TV, but in full color.

    Over the next thirty minutes this accord fades as it transitions into the heart accord. The heart accord starts out cool and almost minty, which I believe is the orris playing with the lingering cedar leaf, and soon the tobacco leaves join the fray. At this point, from what I've sniffed, it most reminds me of the middle notes of Romance Silver for Men. The fragrance actually grows more intense as an almost metallic musk note starts to grow in the background. It's a fairly chaotic mix for a while as you've got the cool minty/orris notes alongside the slightly dirty tobacco leaf note and this metallic musk getting louder and louder - and just as you think it's all going to fall apart, the tobacco leaf nearly disappears and the whole thing quiets down. I don't know if the metallic musk note also faded but in its spot now sits a guaicwood note (which I am quite familiar with the oil of guaicwood - it's a fairly sharp woody note that dries down to smell rather tea like). Perhaps the metallic musk is just the way the synthetic guaicwood smells? Perhaps it was all an illusion created by the strange cacophony of notes? Well, whatever it was, it faded just before reaching the point of cloying.

    At this point guaicwood is the dominant note with a slight musk still present and some vanilla sweetening the mix. Unlike many of the reviewers I don't think the frag ever gets "too sweet." That being said, I do think the opening to mid-notes would generally appeal to a younger crowd. The middle to base notes tend to smell fairly artificial but I think that's more due to the fairly accurate representation of guaicwood (which is a fairly strange smelling note on its own) than due to poor blending.
    Within an hour the scent has made its way through most of its progression and has also quieted signficantly, and at this point I don't think I'll get more than about 3 hours of longevity from it. Perhaps just a lingering musk note or something. That all being said, this is definitely unlike anything I've ever smelled and has a really interesting use of contrasting notes that you wouldn't normally find paired together. I don't regret trying it.


    To summarize:

    Longevity - 3 or 4 hours max.
    Classification - fruity floral over spicy woods.
    Wearability - casual to romantic. I'm guessing it would appeal to the age range of teen - 35 or so.
    Complexity - fairly complex although progression is quick. Chaotic progression, but interesting.
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  2. #2

    Amit's Avatar
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    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    Although I can never bring myself to sample "Deseo for Men" myself, I do appreciate your unbiased and non predisposed take on it.... now that's a detailed review, thanks!


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  3. #3

    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    It's far more unique than many of the other designer offerings currently out there. I think you should try it Java. What's the worst that can happen.. you hate it? Well, then you can - when describing other bad scents, use the line "Well, at least it's not as bad as Deseo for men!"

    We* won't laugh at you for trying it.

    * When I say we, I mean me, as I can't speak for the rest of the BN'ers!
    ***For sale:

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  4. #4
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    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post

    We* won't laugh at you for trying it.

    * When I say we, I mean me, as I can't speak for the rest of the BN'ers!
    No, Sculpture is right Java. I'll be laughing at you!

  5. #5

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    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    Thanks SculptureOfSoul. You add real value to the forums by sharing so much detail with us & I enjoy reading your views.
    If I ever happen to walk past a shelve displaying a tester of Deseo for Men I'll be sure to give it a whiff, see if I can detect the same accords you did... just don't tell Dimitri :-)
    Last edited by jathanas; 4th December 2008 at 08:23 AM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    I should add that I think some natural perfumers charge a ridiculous amount when the quantity is factored in too. I know people need to make a profit, but seriously..
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  7. #7

    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    I like Deseo

    It's a wonderfully made aquatic-esque patchouli. What really surprised me when I tried it is that it smelled like A*Men's patchouli note.

  8. #8

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    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    You'll all be glad to know that my local Marshalls had multiple shelves of Deseo.... I'm sure a Mashalls near you will soon!

  9. #9
    graffham's Avatar
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    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    I couldn't wash this shit off of my hand fast enough.
    Choose to believe, choose joy.
    Scelga di credere, scelga la gioia.

  10. #10

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    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by graffham View Post
    I couldn't wash this shit off of my hand fast enough.
    <snickering>

    c'mon.... you mean you don't douse yourself in this stuff while you listen to JLo records at maximum volume on your iPod? It's part of the whole experience.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    thanks for the great review...i love specificity. However what i dont love is yuzu...its too much for my nose....its one of those notes that if i see in a frag, i generally stay clear away from.
    Current Top 5:

    Tabac, Cardinal, Brookes Brothers, Musc Kublai Khan, Andron

  12. #12
    KMF's Avatar
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    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    Nice review.... You truly are the reviewer of the damned...

  13. #13

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    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by graffham View Post
    I couldn't wash this shit off of my hand fast enough.
    Ibid.

    -Al

  14. #14

    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    Thanks for taking the time and effort to post on this one SculptureOfSoul.

    I'll be trying it out this weekend.

    scentemental

  15. #15

    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    For what it's worth, it's got the clearest guaicwood note I've ever smelled in a perfume. The base is dominated by it, with a bit of vanilla and some sweet musk to help round it off a bit.

    I've not smelled the Micallef Guiacwood based scent or many others, but if you are curious what raw guiacwood smells like, just sniff Deseo 2 or 3 hours in, and that's guiacwood (well, strip away the sweetness and you've got guiacwood.)
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  16. #16

    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    Re-wearing this and I'm realizing just how metallic it is. Sort of a sharp metallic/thujonic (thujone is the prominent chemical in cedar leaf, absinthe oil, also present in high quantities in sage, etc) scent. To me the name doesn't match the scent - Deseo means desire and if this represents desire, it represents cold, mechanical lust.

    The guaicwood is a strong note throughout too. It's defintely a different frag, and while I don't think the name fits with the scent, I do think the bottle and even the color of the bottle is a perfect match.

    Fans of the metallic note in Chrome, L'Anarchiste, and other scents should check this out for a different take on metal.
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  17. #17
    mtgprox05's Avatar
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    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    SoS, I really do appreciate your completely unique and unbiased opinion on all things designer. Its a refreshing change of pace on a site generally dominated by niche-snobs ( myself included ), and the review was great. That being said when I tested this about 2 months ago, I did not care for it. But I did not give it much time, your insightful review, has prompted my enthusiasm for giving it another go.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    I think what some are perceiving as sweetness (in the reviews in the directory) I am perceiving as a sharp thujonic/guaic accord, combined with some synthetic musk. To me, it doesn't exactly smell sweet, but instead sharp. I can definitely see what they mean by "high pitched" though, as the upper element of the accord is the equivalent of a trill on the two highest notes of a piano.

    After this wearing I know it's not a scent I'd wear on a regular basis as it seems a bit..distant, cold, mechanical and inorganic, in some sense. Whereas L'Anarchiste weaves the metallic note in a human context of blood and an organic context of warm woods and spices, Deseo is a combination of cold and sharp notes and is far less approachable. In some ways it's almost depressing. Would be good to wear at times when you want to be distant and perhaps assert your power.

    Go light on the sprays too as the sillage is considerable for the first hour or two.
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 13th December 2008 at 06:01 PM.
    ***For sale:

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    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  19. #19

    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    Looking at the ingredients list I see Cinnamal listed quite highly and now that I think about it, the sharp aroma that persists for the first couple hours is quite similar to the biting and sharp aroma that one can smell in the 'upper registers' of cinnamon bark oil. Yes, sniffing the Deseo on my arm and then my bottle of cinnamon bark oil proves that the sharp note that I am perceiving as metallic is indeed primarily cinnamal. It should be noted that cinnamon bark oil does not smell like ground cinnamon but is far sharper and less warm.
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  20. #20
    Bossa Nova's Avatar
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    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    I happened to be in Macy's purchasing Versace pour homme the very day Deseo hit their shelves. Deseo was sitting around in several shipping boxes at the registers, and the SA let me sample it. I didn't care for it then, but it's been so long ago that I can't remember why I didn't like it.

    I trust SOS's opinion enough to give it another shot, especially at Marshall's prices--I hear they've got alot of it already.

    So, here goes...
    Snarky is as snarky does.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    Sorry to dig up an old thread but I got to test Deseo for the first time today at Marshalls where they had it for $19

    I put it on at 5 pm today and now 1 am and it is still strong with one spray


    This beats Paco XS and Dunhill Desire on my skin


    From all the negativity on the board I seen and the reviews i was really expecting something horrendous

    But I am shocked, it starts off fruity and sweet but then is toned down into a wood musk I think.


    I must say I think i will pick this up tomorrow I am very impressed I can only imagine if I sprayed this 4-5 times
    Last edited by denec; 8th July 2009 at 04:43 AM.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    I realize now what the metallic and discordant (to my nose, anyhow) note was.. that dang tobacco leaf. There must be a particular chemical that is used in the rendering of the tobacco leaf note in many designer fragrances that just does not sit well with me at all. The tobacco leaf note in Gucci by Gucci PH, Gucci II, and Ralph Lauren's Romance Silver all came across the same way and bothered my nose immensely.
    ***For sale:

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    and more!
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  23. #23
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    Default Re: Deseo for Men: Initial Impressions

    SOS nice review and all so detailed as always. I know this is an old thread(missed it) but Ive yet to sample it. I will want to try it and possibly get it since it appears to be cheap now, so thanks!
    Last edited by MFJ; 8th July 2009 at 08:59 AM.

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