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  1. #1

    Default Secret Obsession: Chandler Burr says 4 Stars! Tania Sanchez says 1!

    Burr's panegyric:

    What makes Secret Obsession so good is that [co-perfumer Calice] Becker has managed to create a commercial, accessible version of some of the best niche stuff coming out right now. The reference is the work of Bertrand Duchaufour for two houses, l’Artisan Parfumeur, where he has painted dark, somewhat challenging canvases of smoke and ancient wood, and l’Eau d’Italie, the ultra-niche Roman house, for whom he has executed crystalline 15th-century portraits of the towns and hay fields of Tuscany, its medieval stones, its fields and the stacks of firewood in winter.

    Whether Becker is familiar with these I don’t know, but she has taken that idea and woven it into a silken, opalescent olfactory skein in which the smoke is both the burning oak and the brown sugared tartlette it is baking, the hay is warm, and the spice smoothed into a spotless pastry, palpable, edible, sleek. No one — and that includes men — should hesitate to wear this.
    Sanchez's pan (from the Winter 2008 Update to Perfumes: The Guide):

    Secret Obsession is a plastic-flavored, toxic mystery fruit related to viscous neon-orange home fragrance oils of bad times past; it brings to mind things people once sprayed on shag carpets in dorms to cover up the smell of vomit, which made you miss the vomit; it triumphs over all
    other local odors; it makes you Google “migraine treatment” and “environmental hazards perfume.” That said, though you could argue it derives from the rose-pepper-wood of Parfum Sacré, it is uniquely ugly at any distance, therefore ideal for people who buy perfume and “don’t want to smell like everyone else.” Try this and ask yourself: are you sure?
    My conclusion (having never sniffed the stuff): Reading Burr and Sanchez is loads of fun. But ultimately you should follow your own nose (and possible the noses of the people who have to hang out around you...).
    Last edited by PhinClio; 5th December 2008 at 02:21 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Secret Obsession: Chandler Burr says 4 Stars! Tania Sanchez says 1!

    Yep, you will find many more such diverse opinions from the leading perfume reviewers.

    Whats more suprising (or maybe not) is that Burr's review is the more technically adroit one ..
    -

  3. #3

    Default Re: Secret Obsession: Chandler Burr says 4 Stars! Tania Sanchez says 1!

    Viewed dialectically, the synthesis of this review could be that if you already think that Duchaufour tends to employ a note -subtly in Amouage Jubilation XXV, excessively in EdI's Paestum Rose - which smells like "toxic mystery fruit" they would both be partially correct in their asessment of SO - and you, i.e. I, would in all likelihood hate it.
    Last edited by the_good_life; 5th December 2008 at 07:15 PM.
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Secret Obsession: Chandler Burr says 4 Stars! Tania Sanchez says 1!

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    Viewed dialectically, the synthesis of this review could be that if you already think that Duchaufour tends to employ a note -subtly in Amouage Jubilation XXV, excessively in EdI's Paestum Rose - which smells like "toxic mystery fruit" they would both be partially correct in their asessment of SO - and you, i.e. I, would in all likelihood hate it.
    Lovely the_good_life . From 0 and 1 comes the computer...from hegel the truth about fragrances. One for the blog perhaps?

    I agree about that wierd fruit note - and your assesment of it in XXV.
    Have you smelled the Ramon Molvizar scents? They have it too, wonder what it is?
    Last edited by hirch_duckfinder; 5th December 2008 at 07:28 PM.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  5. #5

    Default Re: Secret Obsession: Chandler Burr says 4 Stars! Tania Sanchez says 1!

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post

    I agree about that wierd fruit note - and your assesment of it in XXV.
    so true!! in hot climate it gets kinda cloying too (XXV) is it dates? Fig skin?

  6. #6

    Default Re: Secret Obsession: Chandler Burr says 4 Stars! Tania Sanchez says 1!

    I dont know sometimes that "toxic fruit" note in Jubilation XXV doesn't bother me but other times it bothers me. When I smell it combined with the frankincense it takes on a dusty character and reminds of "Flinstones fruity pebbles" cereal. What is that smell, oppoponax?

  7. #7

    Default Re: Secret Obsession: Chandler Burr says 4 Stars! Tania Sanchez says 1!

    Well, unless they clearly articulate their assessment criteria, I really don't know what to make of our current crop of "experts." Burr seems to favor frags that are evocative, but just because they are evocative to him doesn't mean they will be to me. In his "The Perfect Scent" book, he talks about the smell of a clean body part that I won't even mention. Sorry, but clean or not, I don't want a frag to evoke that for me. TS's reviews seem to be more "down to earth" than Burr's or LT's, but again, without having a sense of "where she's coming from," it's hard to know how to judge any specific review of hers.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Secret Obsession: Chandler Burr says 4 Stars! Tania Sanchez says 1!

    interesting. further proof that we really need to sample fragrances and make our own mind up. to me it smells like juicy plums for a while, but then when that disappears i don't know what to make of it at all.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Secret Obsession: Chandler Burr says 4 Stars! Tania Sanchez says 1!

    Okay, I went over to the BN directory and read the few reviews that are there. I never sampled SO. I do own a bottle of London for women by Paul Smith (from a swap). It's got a strong, deep, rich dried fruit smell that is predominant, and which I like, so SO interests me. Next time I'm in Sephora/Ulta, I'll look for a tester. However, it sounds like Burr sprayed once and TS sprayed 5 times or more. Isn't it amazing that they don't even include that kind of basic information in their reviews?

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