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  1. #1
    BlackCat's Avatar
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    Default Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    My friend, who is newer to fragrance obsession than I, was curious as to what a chypre was. So I set up some sampling: Femme (fruity chypre); Cuir de Russie and Bandit (leathery chypres), EL Private Collection parfum (green chypre); and Diorella and 31 Rue de Cambon (floral chypres) .

    It was very helpful to me, too, to really clarify the common thread that binds these otherwise diverse frags together.

    My favorite sub-category right now is the fruity-chypre. There's such a contrast between the sweetness or brightness of the fruit and the green mossy base.

    My favorite chypre frags right now are Rochas and Diorella. On both, the base is slightly milder on me, plus I don't get the "sour pot" note that I get from some chypres, like Bandit. (I'm still trying to untangle what the problematic note is--perhaps galbanum?)

    So, what is your favorite chypre sub-category? And your favorite chypre frag(s)?
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Femme and Diorella are very beautiful.

    I also love Mitsouko, Parfum D'Elle, Boudoir, Miss Dior, Parure and Quadrille.

    I don't know anyone else who loves Parfum D'elle but it is a very interesting concoction with ginger at the top and tobacco and amber in the base. I am partial indeed.

    On the right days I also enjoy Paloma Picasso, Cabochard and the occasional Bandit lotion.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Hi Blackcat- great you started this !

    I am really into chypres especially now - I am hooked onto Eau de Soir by Sisley which was described as a 'fierce chypre' in a blog I read recently. Sisley describes it as a floral chypre which I have to agree with . I am addicted to the heart notes and the dry down - this gorgeous minty/ clovey note that has me sniffing my arm so much - my mother asked me what I was doing !!!! It's fierce - it's very strong with tremendous sillage - 2 sprays are really enough.

    The other ones which I love are Mitsouko ( the older version before the reformulation ) and Miss Dior.
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  4. #4

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I'll be reading with interest. The only chypres I've liked at all consistently are the green ones - and I'm busy exploring those. I'm not absolutely sure which of my perfumes would count as chypres, but the guide labels Y and Givenchy III as green chypres, so I'm pretty sure about them! My oldish (but not original) Vent Vert smells a lot like Y, so that probably fits in there too.

    I've tried a smattering of other kinds of chypres. I want to like them, but I usually don't.

  5. #5

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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Well, my dear, I'm not good at pulling these things out of my chapeau, so I scurried over to OsMoz and found TONS....

    My favorite is ALWAYS what I've got on at the moment, so here goes with some of mine...

    FLORAL: Missoni (sigh) ; Boudoir, Le Dix, Cabochard, Cabotine, Badgley Mischka; Escada; Parure; Balmain de Balmain; Jolie Madame; Ma Griffe and 24 Faubourg....

    FRUITY: Ume (sigh); Miss Dior Cherie; Mistsouko (sigh) Libertine and Femme (sigh)

    I'm thinking I'll start a rating system based on exhalations of delight....the "Sigh-o-Meter"...

    Many thanks for an intriguing journey Miss Puss!!
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Mitsouko, Y, Chanel #19 (does that count as a Chypre??), 31 Rue Cambon

  7. #7

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I adore chypres.

    Jean Louis Scherrer is my all time favorite. Just thinking about it makes me swoon.

    I'm also with Alwen Elf on Chanel 19-- if it is chypre, I'm in .And Tabac Blond.
    And Chypre by Coty....so many chypres, so little time....

  8. #8

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Green Chypre - Gobin Daude Seve Exquise
    Leather Chypre - Guerlain Derby
    Floral Chypre - Les Parfums de Rosine Une Folie de Rose
    Fruity Chypre - L'Artisan Ananas Fizz
    Currently wearing: Eau de Cologne by Chanel

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    My favorite men's chypre: Numero Uno by Carthusia

    My favorite women's chypre: Mitsouko by Guerlain

    Honorable mentions: Chant D'Aromes by Guerlain (such a nice vetiver kick to this one) and Moss Breches by Tom Ford (honeycomb and moss - delightful)
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

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  10. #10
    pomander's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Chanel No.19, EL Knowing, Chanel 31, rue Cambon, Hermes Caleche, and Paloma Picasso. I'm trying Femme, but am not sure if I like the fruitiness of it.

  11. #11
    ubuandibeme's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Chypres are not my favorite category of frags, but when I find ones that are appealing - I fall for them hard! The one classic chypre that astounds me is DIORELLA. Topnotes in her come off more lemony than green...which sort of eases me into the rest of the compostition. The other chypre - which is not classical in composition - that I am bound and determined to get my hands on in 2009 is Chanel's 31 RUE CAMBON. Good god I love this stuff! It is understated in it's presence, and multifaceted as well...just can't get enough of it! Other than those two, I really can't say there are any others that have the wow factor for me.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I don't go for fruity chypres at all, with the exception of the nouveau chypre Miss Dior Cherie and old-guard Mitsouko, whose peach aldehyde is dry and ephemeral, not wet and definitive:

    Mitsouko
    Miss Dior
    No. 19
    Givenchy III
    Rose de Nuit
    Eau de Soir

    It's been my experience that when a chypre is wrong for me, it's worthy of criminal complaint: Paloma Picasso, Y, Diorella, Parfum de Therese, Knowing, Caleche (this is astoundingly maleficent), Bandit, Cabochard.

  13. #13

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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Leather and Fruity Chypres are my favourite sub-groups, and my fave Chypres include Bandit, Femme, Jolie Madame, Mitsouko, Le Parfum de Thérèse and Y.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  14. #14
    BlackCat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    As Ubu and Orion note, chypres are usually either really good or really bad on someone (and one person's good is another's bad). Perhaps chypres are the little girl of Longfellow's famous poem:

    There was a little girl
    With a little curl
    Right in the middle of her forehead
    When she was good, she was very very good
    But when she was bad, she was horrid


    I'm jealous of all those for whom chypres like Bandit work. Skin chemistry is a frustrating thing sometimes.
    For sale: JL Scherrer parfum (reduced price) and more!

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    “Pleasure is the flower that passes; remembrance, the lasting perfume” ~ Jean de Boufflers

  15. #15

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Aromatics Elixir! Its the best of the green/herbal/floral chypres.

    I'd disagree with categorizing some of the fragrances mentioned as chypres. Traditionally, a fragrance has to have a top note of bergamot, and a base of oakmoss and patchouli (or in some cases animalic notes like civit, or labdanum). I know the category has been re-defined with the ban on oakmoss, but I have a hard time seeing No. 19, Cabotine, Le Parfum de Therese or Badgley Mischka as Chypres.

  16. #16
    ubuandibeme's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by BlackCat View Post
    As Ubu and Orion note, chypres are usually either really good or really bad on someone (and one person's good is another's bad). Perhaps chypres are the little girl of Longfellow's famous poem:

    There was a little girl
    With a little curl
    Right in the middle of her forehead
    When she was good, she was very very good
    But when she was bad, she was horrid


    I'm jealous of all those for whom chypres like Bandit work. Skin chemistry is a frustrating thing sometimes.
    LOVE that poem for a "chypre"! I'm also jealous of those born with the 'chypre gene' in their chemistry!

  17. #17

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I love Badgely Mischka (Musse sent me a decant). It smells a little bit like a cross between Ungaro's Diva and Coco, or maybe Coco Mlle. It's powerful, but modern. Nice one. Also love Parfum de Therese. Estee Lauder's Knowing is a nice oldie. Mitsouko, unfortunately, doesn't love me.
    Last edited by lilybelle; 8th December 2008 at 12:36 PM.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by Taolady View Post
    I'm thinking I'll start a rating system based on exhalations of delight....the "Sigh-o-Meter"...

  19. #19
    jacona's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    The ones that I can think of off the top of my head that I own and love:

    Paloma Picasso
    Nuit de Noel
    Talisman
    Femme
    Quadrille
    Currently wearing: Naturelle by Yves Rocher

  20. #20

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    Aromatics Elixir! Its the best of the green/herbal/floral chypres.

    I'd disagree with categorizing some of the fragrances mentioned as chypres. Traditionally, a fragrance has to have a top note of bergamot, and a base of oakmoss and patchouli (or in some cases animalic notes like civit, or labdanum). I know the category has been re-defined with the ban on oakmoss, but I have a hard time seeing No. 19, Cabotine, Le Parfum de Therese or Badgley Mischka as Chypres.
    I wasn't sure about Chanel 19 either.

    Now if my favorite chypre, Jean Louis Scherrer, is not a chypre (I don't think there's any bergamot)--my whole Weltanschauung will go into crisis!

  21. #21

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    OMG. My favorite category.
    I could blather on for ages about Chypres.
    The galbanum note is not usually sour like it is in Bandit. Generaaly it is frash, rather bitter, and extremely earthy.
    I love Miss Dior, Chanel No. 19, Aromatics Elixir, Jean Patou 1000, Paloma Picasso, Knowing, and a many, many others due to the mossy, woody presence.
    But not all of them are what you're looking for. You crave those fruit notes. Here are some that are fruity or sweet and might please you.

    Jean Patou 1000 Has an apricotlike osmanthus note in the base that is simply amazing. You must put up with aldehydes in the top. It is woody and anamalic. An amazing Chypre.
    Knowing Has a strong orangelike presence that I love. It's a big, sweet, honeyed, woody rose.
    Le Parfum de Therese by Editions de Frederic Malle. I think you'll flip over this one. Very peachy, just gorgeous.
    Les Parfums de Rosine Poussiere de Rose and Une Folie de Rose both woody roses with some nice fruit notes.
    Gucci Rush has a nice combination of smooth peach and musk along with the necessary woody notes.
    Halston is a big 80s Chypre with strong fruity notes.
    Narciso Rodriguez for her EDP (the pink bottle) is a New Chypre that I like. Very peachy, and lots of vetiver.
    Prescriptives Calyx is very fruity, less Chypre than the others, but fresh and pleasing.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 8th December 2008 at 05:49 PM.

  22. #22
    ubuandibeme's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I never thought of Le Parfum de Therese as a chypre...I do like it very much!

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Amouage Silver Cristel Femme-- the Holy Grail of chypres. Breathtakingly feminine. Aggressively sexy *and* refined. It goes both ways, in all directions, and doesn't look when crossing the street because it stops traffic. I wish I had more than just a 1/2 ml.

    Avon Fastasque-- Discovered this almost 25 years ago and I still love it. Perfectly balanced green and floral, dries down to a creamy green and woody scent.

    Chanel No 19-- I do feel that No. 19 is a chypre on my skin. It has the bergamot and oakmoss, and the leather and musk make an appropriate substitute for the animalic quality of labdanum. I like No. 19 a lot, but it feels a little to mature and sophisticated for me.

    Hermes Caleche-- A tricky one for me. I like the opening and love the drydown, but the middle requires some patience. I think it's the aldehydes.

    Paloma Picasso-- LOVE this in the winter! Even though it starts so big and heady that it give me stomach cramps and I can't leave the house for half an hour.

    Ralph Lauren Safari-- My favorite dry, green chypre. I want to never be without this one!

    Robert Piguet Bandit-- I'm so lucky!

    I too love Narciso Rodriguez for Her, but 'new chypre'? I honestly don't get it. I think it's all marketing and I'll buy the juice, but not the hype.
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  24. #24
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    If you can get some of the recently d/c #19 EDP it is drier & smokier, more chypre-like than the current EDT. The parfum is lovely, too and only available from boutiques in Europe or NYC. I got mine last year, don't know if it's still available, maybe on Ebay. The new re-do is too sweet IMO.

  25. #25

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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Mitsouko, the great chypre of all time.

    My newest chypre love is Ava Luxe Chypre Noir.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Azurée, Bandit, Chant d'Aròmes, Chinatown, Diorella, Givenchy III, Ma Griffe, Mitsouko, Narciso Rodriguez for Her, Rush, Wrappings, Y, Chanel No. 19 . . . there are few chypres I've met and *haven't* loved, or at least liked. They tend to be complicated and multifaceted scents. They make you think.
    “Auntie Mame [is] a froth of whipped cream and champagne and daydreams and Nuit de Noël perfume. She's not mortal at all.”- Patrick Dennis

  27. #27

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Y is my favourite chypre; Mitsouko second. Y because of its crystal-like clarity that seems to make it somehow perfect and delightful to wear. Mitsouko because it is possibly one of the most interesting and beautiful perfumes ever created. Eve the new formulation is still a marvel.

    I just fail to see Narciso Rodriguez for her as a chypre, but it's gone on my wish list; I really like it. It does seem to polarise opinions, so perhaps it at least has something in common with the chypre family.

    Used to own Paloma Picasso back in the day, but now I can't imagine wearing it. It belongs in its own era for me.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    I'd disagree with categorizing some of the fragrances mentioned as chypres. Traditionally, a fragrance has to have a top note of bergamot, and a base of oakmoss and patchouli (or in some cases animalic notes like civit, or labdanum). I know the category has been re-defined with the ban on oakmoss, but I have a hard time seeing No. 19, Cabotine, Le Parfum de Therese or Badgley Mischka as Chypres.
    Yes, I have to say I still find this category confusing. I love LPdT, but can't figure out what makes it a chypre. What are the notes in this that define it that way?

    I wear Patou Sublime -- is that a chypre?
    Last edited by Chestnut; 9th December 2008 at 12:36 AM.

  29. #29
    Dependent
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Halston Couture

    I like regular Halston a little bit, but the drydown turns funky on me. Halston Couture doesn't do that. It stays sharp. It even has a little patchouli in it, but I don't mind. The oakmoss and rose, I love it!

  30. #30
    Olfacta's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I love them all. My favorite right now is Rosine's Une Folie de Rose, but I keep going back to my Coty Chypre, the mother of them all (I got a bottle on fleabay last year). It's deep and dry, almost austere. There's Miss Dior; Jean-Louis Scherrer 1 (green chypre), Mitsouko (acquired taste), just about all the other vintage Diors, Ma Griffe, Bandit -- not easy to love -- and the leathers like Jolie Madame. I tend to go for the vintage chypres because I think that was this family's golden age. But I also love Paloma Picasso. Generally, oakmoss and bergamot make me happy, and whatever is between them seems interesting and right.
    Olfacta
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