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  1. #1

    Default Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    My friend, who is newer to fragrance obsession than I, was curious as to what a chypre was. So I set up some sampling: Femme (fruity chypre); Cuir de Russie and Bandit (leathery chypres), EL Private Collection parfum (green chypre); and Diorella and 31 Rue de Cambon (floral chypres) .

    It was very helpful to me, too, to really clarify the common thread that binds these otherwise diverse frags together.

    My favorite sub-category right now is the fruity-chypre. There's such a contrast between the sweetness or brightness of the fruit and the green mossy base.

    My favorite chypre frags right now are Rochas and Diorella. On both, the base is slightly milder on me, plus I don't get the "sour pot" note that I get from some chypres, like Bandit. (I'm still trying to untangle what the problematic note is--perhaps galbanum?)

    So, what is your favorite chypre sub-category? And your favorite chypre frag(s)?
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Femme and Diorella are very beautiful.

    I also love Mitsouko, Parfum D'Elle, Boudoir, Miss Dior, Parure and Quadrille.

    I don't know anyone else who loves Parfum D'elle but it is a very interesting concoction with ginger at the top and tobacco and amber in the base. I am partial indeed.

    On the right days I also enjoy Paloma Picasso, Cabochard and the occasional Bandit lotion.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Hi Blackcat- great you started this !

    I am really into chypres especially now - I am hooked onto Eau de Soir by Sisley which was described as a 'fierce chypre' in a blog I read recently. Sisley describes it as a floral chypre which I have to agree with . I am addicted to the heart notes and the dry down - this gorgeous minty/ clovey note that has me sniffing my arm so much - my mother asked me what I was doing !!!! It's fierce - it's very strong with tremendous sillage - 2 sprays are really enough.

    The other ones which I love are Mitsouko ( the older version before the reformulation ) and Miss Dior.
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  4. #4

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I'll be reading with interest. The only chypres I've liked at all consistently are the green ones - and I'm busy exploring those. I'm not absolutely sure which of my perfumes would count as chypres, but the guide labels Y and Givenchy III as green chypres, so I'm pretty sure about them! My oldish (but not original) Vent Vert smells a lot like Y, so that probably fits in there too.

    I've tried a smattering of other kinds of chypres. I want to like them, but I usually don't.

  5. #5

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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Well, my dear, I'm not good at pulling these things out of my chapeau, so I scurried over to OsMoz and found TONS....

    My favorite is ALWAYS what I've got on at the moment, so here goes with some of mine...

    FLORAL: Missoni (sigh) ; Boudoir, Le Dix, Cabochard, Cabotine, Badgley Mischka; Escada; Parure; Balmain de Balmain; Jolie Madame; Ma Griffe and 24 Faubourg....

    FRUITY: Ume (sigh); Miss Dior Cherie; Mistsouko (sigh) Libertine and Femme (sigh)

    I'm thinking I'll start a rating system based on exhalations of delight....the "Sigh-o-Meter"...

    Many thanks for an intriguing journey Miss Puss!!
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  6. #6

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Mitsouko, Y, Chanel #19 (does that count as a Chypre??), 31 Rue Cambon

  7. #7

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I adore chypres.

    Jean Louis Scherrer is my all time favorite. Just thinking about it makes me swoon.

    I'm also with Alwen Elf on Chanel 19-- if it is chypre, I'm in .And Tabac Blond.
    And Chypre by Coty....so many chypres, so little time....

  8. #8

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Green Chypre - Gobin Daude Seve Exquise
    Leather Chypre - Guerlain Derby
    Floral Chypre - Les Parfums de Rosine Une Folie de Rose
    Fruity Chypre - L'Artisan Ananas Fizz

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    My favorite men's chypre: Numero Uno by Carthusia

    My favorite women's chypre: Mitsouko by Guerlain

    Honorable mentions: Chant D'Aromes by Guerlain (such a nice vetiver kick to this one) and Moss Breches by Tom Ford (honeycomb and moss - delightful)
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

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  10. #10

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Chanel No.19, EL Knowing, Chanel 31, rue Cambon, Hermes Caleche, and Paloma Picasso. I'm trying Femme, but am not sure if I like the fruitiness of it.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Chypres are not my favorite category of frags, but when I find ones that are appealing - I fall for them hard! The one classic chypre that astounds me is DIORELLA. Topnotes in her come off more lemony than green...which sort of eases me into the rest of the compostition. The other chypre - which is not classical in composition - that I am bound and determined to get my hands on in 2009 is Chanel's 31 RUE CAMBON. Good god I love this stuff! It is understated in it's presence, and multifaceted as well...just can't get enough of it! Other than those two, I really can't say there are any others that have the wow factor for me.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I don't go for fruity chypres at all, with the exception of the nouveau chypre Miss Dior Cherie and old-guard Mitsouko, whose peach aldehyde is dry and ephemeral, not wet and definitive:

    Mitsouko
    Miss Dior
    No. 19
    Givenchy III
    Rose de Nuit
    Eau de Soir

    It's been my experience that when a chypre is wrong for me, it's worthy of criminal complaint: Paloma Picasso, Y, Diorella, Parfum de Therese, Knowing, Caleche (this is astoundingly maleficent), Bandit, Cabochard.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Leather and Fruity Chypres are my favourite sub-groups, and my fave Chypres include Bandit, Femme, Jolie Madame, Mitsouko, Le Parfum de Thérèse and Y.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  14. #14

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    As Ubu and Orion note, chypres are usually either really good or really bad on someone (and one person's good is another's bad). Perhaps chypres are the little girl of Longfellow's famous poem:

    There was a little girl
    With a little curl
    Right in the middle of her forehead
    When she was good, she was very very good
    But when she was bad, she was horrid


    I'm jealous of all those for whom chypres like Bandit work. Skin chemistry is a frustrating thing sometimes.
    For sale: JL Scherrer parfum (reduced price) and more!

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  15. #15

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Aromatics Elixir! Its the best of the green/herbal/floral chypres.

    I'd disagree with categorizing some of the fragrances mentioned as chypres. Traditionally, a fragrance has to have a top note of bergamot, and a base of oakmoss and patchouli (or in some cases animalic notes like civit, or labdanum). I know the category has been re-defined with the ban on oakmoss, but I have a hard time seeing No. 19, Cabotine, Le Parfum de Therese or Badgley Mischka as Chypres.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by BlackCat View Post
    As Ubu and Orion note, chypres are usually either really good or really bad on someone (and one person's good is another's bad). Perhaps chypres are the little girl of Longfellow's famous poem:

    There was a little girl
    With a little curl
    Right in the middle of her forehead
    When she was good, she was very very good
    But when she was bad, she was horrid


    I'm jealous of all those for whom chypres like Bandit work. Skin chemistry is a frustrating thing sometimes.
    LOVE that poem for a "chypre"! I'm also jealous of those born with the 'chypre gene' in their chemistry!

  17. #17

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I love Badgely Mischka (Musse sent me a decant). It smells a little bit like a cross between Ungaro's Diva and Coco, or maybe Coco Mlle. It's powerful, but modern. Nice one. Also love Parfum de Therese. Estee Lauder's Knowing is a nice oldie. Mitsouko, unfortunately, doesn't love me.
    Last edited by lilybelle; 8th December 2008 at 01:36 PM.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by Taolady View Post
    I'm thinking I'll start a rating system based on exhalations of delight....the "Sigh-o-Meter"...

  19. #19

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    The ones that I can think of off the top of my head that I own and love:

    Paloma Picasso
    Nuit de Noel
    Talisman
    Femme
    Quadrille

  20. #20

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    Aromatics Elixir! Its the best of the green/herbal/floral chypres.

    I'd disagree with categorizing some of the fragrances mentioned as chypres. Traditionally, a fragrance has to have a top note of bergamot, and a base of oakmoss and patchouli (or in some cases animalic notes like civit, or labdanum). I know the category has been re-defined with the ban on oakmoss, but I have a hard time seeing No. 19, Cabotine, Le Parfum de Therese or Badgley Mischka as Chypres.
    I wasn't sure about Chanel 19 either.

    Now if my favorite chypre, Jean Louis Scherrer, is not a chypre (I don't think there's any bergamot)--my whole Weltanschauung will go into crisis!

  21. #21

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    OMG. My favorite category.
    I could blather on for ages about Chypres.
    The galbanum note is not usually sour like it is in Bandit. Generaaly it is frash, rather bitter, and extremely earthy.
    I love Miss Dior, Chanel No. 19, Aromatics Elixir, Jean Patou 1000, Paloma Picasso, Knowing, and a many, many others due to the mossy, woody presence.
    But not all of them are what you're looking for. You crave those fruit notes. Here are some that are fruity or sweet and might please you.

    Jean Patou 1000 Has an apricotlike osmanthus note in the base that is simply amazing. You must put up with aldehydes in the top. It is woody and anamalic. An amazing Chypre.
    Knowing Has a strong orangelike presence that I love. It's a big, sweet, honeyed, woody rose.
    Le Parfum de Therese by Editions de Frederic Malle. I think you'll flip over this one. Very peachy, just gorgeous.
    Les Parfums de Rosine Poussiere de Rose and Une Folie de Rose both woody roses with some nice fruit notes.
    Gucci Rush has a nice combination of smooth peach and musk along with the necessary woody notes.
    Halston is a big 80s Chypre with strong fruity notes.
    Narciso Rodriguez for her EDP (the pink bottle) is a New Chypre that I like. Very peachy, and lots of vetiver.
    Prescriptives Calyx is very fruity, less Chypre than the others, but fresh and pleasing.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 8th December 2008 at 06:49 PM.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I never thought of Le Parfum de Therese as a chypre...I do like it very much!

  23. #23
    Heartwood's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Amouage Silver Cristel Femme-- the Holy Grail of chypres. Breathtakingly feminine. Aggressively sexy *and* refined. It goes both ways, in all directions, and doesn't look when crossing the street because it stops traffic. I wish I had more than just a 1/2 ml.

    Avon Fastasque-- Discovered this almost 25 years ago and I still love it. Perfectly balanced green and floral, dries down to a creamy green and woody scent.

    Chanel No 19-- I do feel that No. 19 is a chypre on my skin. It has the bergamot and oakmoss, and the leather and musk make an appropriate substitute for the animalic quality of labdanum. I like No. 19 a lot, but it feels a little to mature and sophisticated for me.

    Hermes Caleche-- A tricky one for me. I like the opening and love the drydown, but the middle requires some patience. I think it's the aldehydes.

    Paloma Picasso-- LOVE this in the winter! Even though it starts so big and heady that it give me stomach cramps and I can't leave the house for half an hour.

    Ralph Lauren Safari-- My favorite dry, green chypre. I want to never be without this one!

    Robert Piguet Bandit-- I'm so lucky!

    I too love Narciso Rodriguez for Her, but 'new chypre'? I honestly don't get it. I think it's all marketing and I'll buy the juice, but not the hype.
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  24. #24
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    If you can get some of the recently d/c #19 EDP it is drier & smokier, more chypre-like than the current EDT. The parfum is lovely, too and only available from boutiques in Europe or NYC. I got mine last year, don't know if it's still available, maybe on Ebay. The new re-do is too sweet IMO.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Mitsouko, the great chypre of all time.

    My newest chypre love is Ava Luxe Chypre Noir.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Azurée, Bandit, Chant d'Aròmes, Chinatown, Diorella, Givenchy III, Ma Griffe, Mitsouko, Narciso Rodriguez for Her, Rush, Wrappings, Y, Chanel No. 19 . . . there are few chypres I've met and *haven't* loved, or at least liked. They tend to be complicated and multifaceted scents. They make you think.
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  27. #27

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Y is my favourite chypre; Mitsouko second. Y because of its crystal-like clarity that seems to make it somehow perfect and delightful to wear. Mitsouko because it is possibly one of the most interesting and beautiful perfumes ever created. Eve the new formulation is still a marvel.

    I just fail to see Narciso Rodriguez for her as a chypre, but it's gone on my wish list; I really like it. It does seem to polarise opinions, so perhaps it at least has something in common with the chypre family.

    Used to own Paloma Picasso back in the day, but now I can't imagine wearing it. It belongs in its own era for me.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    I'd disagree with categorizing some of the fragrances mentioned as chypres. Traditionally, a fragrance has to have a top note of bergamot, and a base of oakmoss and patchouli (or in some cases animalic notes like civit, or labdanum). I know the category has been re-defined with the ban on oakmoss, but I have a hard time seeing No. 19, Cabotine, Le Parfum de Therese or Badgley Mischka as Chypres.
    Yes, I have to say I still find this category confusing. I love LPdT, but can't figure out what makes it a chypre. What are the notes in this that define it that way?

    I wear Patou Sublime -- is that a chypre?
    Last edited by Chestnut; 9th December 2008 at 01:36 AM.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Halston Couture

    I like regular Halston a little bit, but the drydown turns funky on me. Halston Couture doesn't do that. It stays sharp. It even has a little patchouli in it, but I don't mind. The oakmoss and rose, I love it!

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I love them all. My favorite right now is Rosine's Une Folie de Rose, but I keep going back to my Coty Chypre, the mother of them all (I got a bottle on fleabay last year). It's deep and dry, almost austere. There's Miss Dior; Jean-Louis Scherrer 1 (green chypre), Mitsouko (acquired taste), just about all the other vintage Diors, Ma Griffe, Bandit -- not easy to love -- and the leathers like Jolie Madame. I tend to go for the vintage chypres because I think that was this family's golden age. But I also love Paloma Picasso. Generally, oakmoss and bergamot make me happy, and whatever is between them seems interesting and right.
    Olfacta
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  31. #31

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Agreed re: Halston Couture and Eau du Soir. Both fabulous.
    This week, 'Chanel Cuir de Russie: Skin Scent' at http://thescentimentalist.blogspot.com/

  32. #32

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Would you say Daim Blond qualifies as a chypre?

  33. #33

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Hey you!

    When I first started this fragrance "thing" I thought I was going to be singularly chypre. (Silly me!) If I were forced to pick a favorite olfactory group, after much torment and debate, I'd probably pick chypre; (or have a complete nervous breakdown while trying to make a decision!)

    A few favorites (based on Osmoz categorization):

    Vivienne Westwood Boudoir, Ananas Fizz, Coco Mlle, Lady Vengeance, Chance, Sublime, Narciso (edp), Wrappings, EnJoy, Knowing, 24 Faubourg, Cabochard, Cabotine, Shiloh, Eau du Soir

    A very, very favorite that to my nose is a chypre, (I don't know how it's defined by Professional Perfume Categorizers) is Yves Rocher Comme Une Evidence, (esp. in its edt form: Un jour se leve. It's uplifting, radiant, and gorgeous. I must get some to you!
    Last edited by Tovah; 9th December 2008 at 08:11 PM.

  34. #34

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Vol de Nuit
    Mitsouko
    Jolie Madame
    Paloma Picasso
    Opium
    L'amour fait songer, vivre et croire. Il a, pour réchauffer le coeur, un rayon de plus que la gloire; et ce rayon, c'est le bonheur. (Victor HUGO)

  35. #35

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I love 31 Rue Cambon and Bandit. Very sophisticated, but still has that freshness that I love so much about chypres. I think I've found the limit of my chypre-love, though, and that's in Agent Provocateur. Woo wee!!! That one blows the top off my head and if I sniff too deeply, it gives me a slight headache. Still, I just got my 1.7 oz bottle.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I'm really enjoying this thread. Keep 'em coming! More rose chypre suggestions anyone?

  37. #37

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    WELCOME PERSIMON!!!!

    You have excellent taste in fragrance! You sure have found the right place to hang around. So glad you're here.

    Funny you say that about AP - because I have the same reaction. I love the stuff, but it's hell bent on strangling me. I keep believing that I'll find the right weather for it to be perfect, as I know I can't wear it well in warm weather. It's cool here right now...I think I'll go get my sample.

    *edit* - I just noticed that you're in SoCal. I foresee some sniffing in your immediate future...
    Last edited by Tovah; 10th December 2008 at 12:54 AM.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    La Perla by La Perla is a very respectable chypre, to my nose, and smells not dissimilar to AP -- only it's a lot cheaper!

    Oddly, Magie Noire smells very chypre on me, though I understand that it's classified (not unreasonably) as an oriental.
    This week, 'Chanel Cuir de Russie: Skin Scent' at http://thescentimentalist.blogspot.com/

  39. #39

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I have to say that Moss Breches is the most individual thing I have smelled of those. The classic Coty Chypre is of course the reference, but most people have never smelled this (I wonder who has) so there is not a lot to read about it apart from its status.

    But honourable mentions go to:

    Aromatics Elixir
    Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum
    Diorella
    Cuir de Russie
    Chanel Pour Monsieur




    I never really warmed up to Mitsouko myself.
    Last edited by Alexandrie; 10th December 2008 at 12:27 PM. Reason: addition

  40. #40

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    Aromatics Elixir! Its the best of the green/herbal/floral chypres.

    I'd disagree with categorizing some of the fragrances mentioned as chypres. Traditionally, a fragrance has to have a top note of bergamot, and a base of oakmoss and patchouli (or in some cases animalic notes like civit, or labdanum). I know the category has been re-defined with the ban on oakmoss, but I have a hard time seeing No. 19, Cabotine, Le Parfum de Therese or Badgley Mischka as Chypres.
    I'd agree with your statement. It gets very confusing; even more so when there seems to be two kinds of chypres - mossy and leathers. So many perfume contain oakmoss in the base, and even bergamot or galbanum in the top- many classic florals do, yet I wouldn't consider them chypres. I go more by the smell, than the listing of notes. Are those accord/compositions showcased? If so, it's a chypre. I would consider No 19 a green-floral, as I get more vetiver than moss or leather. Private Collection to my nose is a shrieking green-floral- a pine like note is way more prominent than any moss.

    My favorite sub-categories are floral-chypres, then probably citrus chypres. My overall faves are Patou's 1000 (and even this is on the boarder of chypre/floral, imo), Aromatics Elixir, Diorella, Paloma Picasso, and Caleche. In general, my least favorite are the fruity-chypres...Although Diorella's peach note becomes quite prominent in warmer weather
    I forgot Halston! The cologne spray didn't do it for me, but the parfum is glorious.
    Oh, and Azuree, I do enjoy that one.
    Last edited by leffleur; 11th December 2008 at 01:20 AM. Reason: Adding to list...again

  41. #41

    Question Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by leffleur View Post
    I'd agree with your statement. It gets very confusing; even more so when there seems to be two kinds of chypres - mossy and leathers. So many perfume contain oakmoss in the base, and even bergamot or galbanum in the top- many classic florals do, yet I wouldn't consider them chypres. I go more by the smell, than the listing of notes. Are those accord/compositions showcased? If so, it's a chypre. I would consider No 19 a green-floral, as I get more vetiver than moss or leather. Private Collection to my nose is a shrieking green-floral- a pine like note is way more prominent than any moss.

    My favorite sub-categories are floral-chypres, then probably citrus chypres. My overall faves are Patou's 1000 (and even this is on the boarder of chypre/floral, imo), Aromatics Elixir, Diorella, Paloma Picasso, and Caleche. In general, my least favorite are the fruity-chypres...Although Diorella's peach note becomes quite prominent in warmer weather
    I forgot Halston! The cologne spray didn't do it for me, but the parfum is glorious.
    Oh, and Azuree, I do enjoy that one.
    I'm very confused (as a few here seem to be) by what constitutes a chypre if oakmoss is no longer used. What is the substitute? Is bergamot a requirement or just common as a top note? And if some fragrances are just 'chypres' then why are others floral or fruity or green chypres? When do you feel the need the subcategorize?
    All I know is that I love Mitsouko, but otherwise I'm really a novice to this category, so the thread is VERY helpful!!

  42. #42

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by Chestnut View Post
    Yes, I have to say I still find this category confusing.


    Same here! (I used Osmoz as a "guide" when I posted earlier in this thread.) Some of the fragrances I mentioned (such as Cabotine) are classified there as chypres, but when smelling them, my nose wouldn't immediately tell my brain it was sniffing chypres, (although I do detect what I think are chypre-like notes in the drydowns). Osmoz talks about "fruity" vs. "floral" chypres and then overlaps many of the fragrances into both categories, which confuses me. When I responded, I was thinking of Chypres as scents having citrus topnotes with woody basenotes. Quite frankly, I don't know what I'm talking about,


    Quote Originally Posted by Nostalgie
    if my favorite chypre, Jean Louis Scherrer, is not a chypre (I don't think there's any bergamot)--my whole Weltanschauung will go into crisis!


    Definitely! I'd forgotten about this one!

    I'm not sure I understand the "new chypre" thing, either. I LOVE Narciso and I've always preferred the edp (pink bottle), but to me, all versions smell more like Egyptian Musk than the requisite woods/mosses/citrus.
    Last edited by Tovah; 11th December 2008 at 02:50 AM. Reason: I can't type

  43. #43

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Shiloh!

    (Is Shiloh a chypre?) It's Roudnitska-gorgeous.

  44. #44

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    O.K., I actually had to do a little looking into what was a chypre when I put together the sampling list. It looks like the definition differs quite a bit, depending where you look.

    Chypre itself means from Cyprus. That doesn't tell us much.

    Some dictionaries define chypre as a perfume made with sandalwood! However, Coty Chypre, which is what most fragrance people use as the reference, had a bergamot top note, floral middle notes, and an oakmoss (and possibly amber?) base.

    Some people say now that if it has a mossy/woody base, that's enough to constitute a chypre. (Michael Edwards doesn't use the term "chypre" in his classifications--instead, he uses "mossy woods".) Others say you have to at least start with some citrus, and a few hardcore purists say it has to be bergamot. I'm in the first school--I rarely catch citrus on my skin unless it's strong.

    I do think the modern use of "chypre" is really stretching it and that it is often being used as a marketing term. To me, if the drydown isn't a slight bit bitter, green, and woodsy, it ain't a chypre. When Persimon and I tried all the classics (welcome, friend!), it really clarified for me what a chypre smells like. I suppose that's tautological, but so be it.
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  45. #45

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    New to frags, still to test many...

    Narciso Rodriguez EDP!!! ahhhhh, drool

    Chypre - floral/woody/musk...
    Cyphre - fruity

  46. #46

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    I love this thread. Adding Sous le Vent and Chypre Fatale to the list. I tried the chypre Fatale for the first time yesterday and I foun} it very appealing.

  47. #47
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Per Tovah's comment, I'm sniffing on Evidence (Un jour se lève)--a chypre!? I'd never have thunk it.

    Gotta give a little shout out for dear Miss Balmain. Her amber drydown is exquisite--especially NOT on my skin but on fabric. Her top notes are uber old-lady grandma-like, and I can thoroughly embrace that when I'm in the mood. Maybe we should do an old-lady scent synchronization day and bash that image!?

    I like to wear Femme outside. Funny that. I don't think "wear this while laboring in the yard" was part of Rochas's original ad copy. She really stands up to the wind and compliments nature.

    Thanks to this thread, I'm putting Knowing on the to-sniff list. Purplebird said the magic word: orange.

    The March Sniff 'n' Speak is all about the chypres. Gear up, me hardees.

  48. #48

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Floral Chypres -

    Badgley Mischka
    Agent Provocateur
    Balenciaga Le Dix
    Aromatics Elixir
    Bond No 9 Bryant Park
    Armani City Glam
    Lalique Perles de Lalique

    Fruity Chypres -

    Gucci by Gucci EDP
    Jasper Conran Woman
    Mauboussin by Mauboussin
    Chanel Cristalle
    Mitsouko

    other ones I am not sure of but think are chypres...

    Guerlain Rose Barbare
    Rosine Rose d'Amour
    "So many scents, so little skin"...

    http://bonkersaboutperfume.blogspot.com/

  49. #49

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quarry, if your initially think Knowing is too-too for you, spray it on your coat cuffs, hang the coat in the closet overnight, and smell it the cuffs the next day (or days). It's exceptionally yummy on clothing. It even smells great on your pillowcase the day after you sleep there.

    In regard to the question, "What is a Chypre?" I would offer this:
    Look for a combination of opposite smells, usually wet + dry or sweet+ bitter/sour/salty.
    Wet = sweet notes like fruits and ambers.
    Dry = salty, earthy, or woody notes like oakmoss, patchouli, galbanum.

    A classic, Old-School Chypre usually starts out green or pungent or citrusy on top, goes through some interesting florals, fruits, leathers, spices, or woods, and ends up sweet and ambery in the base. There is always a juxtaposition of salty, bitter, earthy, dry, woody with the sweet and wet notes.

    A high percentage of natural oakmoss used to contribute greatly to the dry and salty notes of a chypre, and it still can be used, but in lesser percentages. Therefore, perfumers are substituting a synthetic oakmoss or putting in many other kinds of wood scents, such a patchouli, vetiver, and the myriad of interesting new woody notes available nowadays.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 11th December 2008 at 02:34 PM.

  50. #50

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Well, I don't want to seem perverse but I am still confused! I wear Mauboussin regularly and to me it's an oriental! Can it be both chypre and oriental? It's ambery, citric, cola-y and tobacco-y and maybe has a bit of "salty" patch in there but nothing that strikes me as bitter, green or austere, which is how I imagine a pillar of chypre.

    I mentioned Sublime as a possible chypre because it has a strong contrast between sweet (vanilla) and dark green (vetiver) that creates almost a twisted effect. Sublime has also been called "oriental".

    I imagined chypres as having that high baroque tension or twist, an in Purplebird's "opposites" reference. But do orientals, by virtue of piling on lots of stuff, also wind up automatically in the "chypre" category, or do we require a sense of bitter green in there? Would an amber/patchouli like Coromandel count as a chypre?

  51. #51

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by Chestnut View Post
    Can it be both chypre and oriental?
    There is an increasingly fine line between Chypres and Woody Orientals. The new, woody molecules can give a fragrance the dry salty or sour quality of Chypres.

    Remember, the Old Chypre formula for was bergamot + oakmoss + patchouli + labdanum (amber), and then any other notes could be added, such as fruits, florals, leathers. The New Chypre formula substitutes other woods for the oakmoss and often substitutes musk or lighter sweet notes for the amber.

    There is an increasing similarity between Chypres and Woody Orientals. These are my two favorite olfactive families. The new Woody Orientals tend to omit the sweetness that clearly pushed them into the Oriental category. They are left with airy, earthy, rather dry characteristics that make them lean toward Chypres. The use of oud and vetiver (which are bitter and sour respectively) coupled with sweet florals, spices, or fruits make them fall into a category all their own, with plenty of overlap into Chypres, The deciding factor in the past has been the presence or absence of oakmoss (which is not as relevant now due to restrictions) and the amount of amber in the base (which is also not as relevant with the New Chypres.

    I personally think that Parfum de Therese is a Chypre that falls on the border of fruity florals. But see how different it is from fruity florals? It is clear and clean. It is less sweet than most fruity florals. It doesn't finish on a big, girly, sweet musk base or heavy, creamy vanilla notes. The base is woody.

    I've never smelled Jean Patou Sublime, but 1000 is a Chypre that falls on the border of an Animalic Foral. But it's pungent in the top, and it has a big, woody apricot-osmanthus note that dominates the drydown.

    Chanel Coromandel is a Woody Oriental with huge amber notes. It also has some incense resins that give it a dryness that pushes it toward Chypres, so I can see what you mean. To me, it is more Oriental because of the sweetness.

    And no, not all Chypres are Green. Absolutely not. So the presence of galbanum, although important to many of them, is not a deciding factor.

    The boundaries of perfumes are changing with the creation of every new fragrance molecule. I wish everyone could smell Chypre de Coty for a benchmark.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 11th December 2008 at 03:44 PM.

  52. #52

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    My favorite chypre is probably 31 Rue Cambon. And Cuir de Russie, if that's considered a chypre!

    I recently discovered Rosine's Rose d'Amour, which is a soft green-rose chypre that is very warm, as opposed to cooler green-rose chypres like Chanel No 19, which I can't wear. It's a little grassy and the Guide describes is as having a "barnyard" narcissus note, and I think that's the note that I respond to.

    I also like Parfumerie Generale Corps at Ames for a really powerful green chypre.

  53. #53

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Corps et Ames is one of my faves! It smells slightly similar to the popular Montale's Black Aoud (sp?).

    I think the chypre category is tough to get a handle on because there are so many subcategories of chypre that it can be confusing. Add to that the new definition, which makes absolutely no sense to me scent-wise or intellectually whatsoever, and, you've got a complete mess on your hands regarding the category. I'm not sure it's possible to give a good definition of chypre as the perfume industry currently wants us to use it.

    Growing up with a mom who wore exlusively chypres and greens, I just automatically "know" that traditional chypre smell (I know it when I smell it!). I don't think patchouli had a lot to do with the category until recently. In recent years, it has been touted as the new oakmoss and has replaced oakmoss as the definition of chypre.

    This redefinition is what allows something like Narciso Rodriquez or Miss Dior Cherie to be classified as a "chypre" (Seattlelight rolling her eyes); give me a break.

  54. #54

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Purplebird, thanks for the info on chypres. I wish I could smell the Coty Chypre too!

    I guess I've always associated chypres with a greenish note, at least in the base, although I think it's the oakmoss (or substitute) type of "greenish," not necessary the galbanum. That was confirmed from all the chypres we tried. (And because there were so many different definitions of chypre, I decided to try the ones that pretty much everyone seemed to agree constituted chypres, such as Diorella, Femme, etc.)

    But I see what you're saying--perhaps it's not necessarily that bitter-ish green edge as much as it based on contrast.

    Perhaps it's "chypre is as chypre does"? Actually, that might be my new saying!

    Anyhow, great contributions, everyone. Looking forward to our March S&S.
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  55. #55

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by seattlelight View Post
    This redefinition is what allows something like Narciso Rodriquez or Miss Dior Cherie to be classified as a "chypre" (Seattlelight rolling her eyes); give me a break.
    Pah! If Miss Dior Cherie is a chypre then I'm Nancy Reagan!

    This week, 'Chanel Cuir de Russie: Skin Scent' at http://thescentimentalist.blogspot.com/

  56. #56
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    OMG ! All this talk about chypres is making my credit card itch like crazy . I forgot to say I adore Caleche- silly me- I wore it to death ( as usual when I love a fragrance ) and of course Chanel No.19 which I love too and Aromatics Elixir. I think I am first and foremost naturally a chypre person even though I love violets. I gravitate towards chypres naturally.
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 12th December 2008 at 12:09 AM.
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  57. #57

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by soirdelune View Post
    Pah! If Miss Dior Cherie is a chypre then I'm Nancy Reagan!

    Hey, soirdelune, just say "No!"
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  58. #58

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by seattlelight View Post
    I'm not sure it's possible to give a good definition of chypre as the perfume industry currently wants us to use it....I don't think patchouli had a lot to do with the category until recently. In recent years, it has been touted as the new oakmoss and has replaced oakmoss as the definition of chypre..
    I totally agree.
    In no way will I equate the new Gucci with the true concept of Chypre.
    It is sweet and sour, yes, but it reminds me more of Sour Patch Kids candy than perfume.
    Really, the new Pink Chypres are a class of their own--a few very good but most not to my liking at all.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 12th December 2008 at 02:29 PM.

  59. #59

    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by alba View Post
    Would you say Daim Blond qualifies as a chypre?
    Well, I made my own investigations. Fragantica defines it as a chypre floral, and so does osmoz. Its notes are:

    top notes: Hawthorn, Ceylonese cardamom

    heart notes:Tuscany Pallida, Iris, Abricot Stone

    base notes:Musk, Heliotrope, Leather

    I would have imagined it could be a leather chypre, like Bandit.
    Edwards classifies it under "dry woods", the same definition as Bois des Illes (which also has the term "classical" attached to it), and Bandit. So what is it? floral, chypre, woods... probably a bit of everything ...it's somehow confusing.

  60. #60
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    Default Re: Chypre-a-Thon: what's your favorite?

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    I totally agree.
    In no way will I equate the new Gucci with the true concept of Chypre.
    It is sweet and sour, yes, but it reminds me more of Sour Patch Kids candy than perfume.
    Really, the new Pink Chypres are a class of their own--a few very good but most not to my liking at all.
    I agree, the perfume industry wants to sell to 2 big markets at once. The younger audience that knows only sweeter frags and the older (like me) who really want real mossy chypres. They CALL the "new" chypres "pink" or whatever, but they are too sweet IMO and should have their own definition. They feel like "SweetTart" candy to me. There is none of the tangy/bitter, sour/green, earthy/woody note that is missing from today's market and is really what chypre is all about. I'm with the "Nancy Reagans" and will have to say, "NO!"

    Also, while I'm on my rant I'd like to say, If we can put a robot on Mars, why can't we make a chypre with new materials that's just as good as the originals? Actually, Mitsouko is still excellent, so what's the problem? I think it has to do with marketers trying to please too many people all the time, so they ruin the chypres by making them sweet. Look what they did to Covet. It started out great and they pulled back and botched it up so it's halfway tangy, halfway sweet- basically annoying.
    Last edited by kumquat; 12th December 2008 at 09:12 PM.

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