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  1. #31

    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    Some of these surprise me - I love Tiffany for Men dearly, but I think of it's sandalwood much more than it's patchouli - which is not a distinct note as far as I can tell. Same with Parfum de Merveilles - patchouli may play a supporting role but is not distinct. Otherwise this is a great list of patchouli need-to-tries.

    A few points of clarification: Patchouli is crucial element in classic chypre accords. Tiffany for Men is one of the great men's chypres. Patchouli play a supporting role in Tiffany for Men, but a really important one. If you were trying to teach some one of the importance of patchouli in a classic chypre accord, Tiffany for Men would be a great place to start. I never claimed that Tiffany for Men was a predominantly patchouli based fragrance and certainly it is not. My comment was "To my nose, Ungaro Pour L'Homme I, Tiffany for Men, and Captain Molyneux, in that order represents to most skillful integrated use of patchouli in men's fragrances." Tiffany for Men is certainly the most light handed in it's use of all the one's listed here, but for me at least, it's an important use of patchouli. There are plenty of patchouli heavy fragrances, but often patchouli in supportive role reveals what magical things patchouli can do in fragrances even in small amounts. These were the lines I was thinking of when I mentioned Ungaro Pour L'Homme I, Tiffany for Men, and Captain Molyneux.

    I am talking about the Parfum version of Eau des Merveilles, Parfum des Merveilles. Are we talking about the same fragrance because the parfum version certainly features patchouli up front?

    scentemental
    Last edited by scentemental; 10th December 2008 at 12:12 AM.

  2. #32

    Ron199's Avatar
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    Post Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    1. Patchouli Leaves...Montale.. Dark, and deep Patchouli.
    2. Mazzolari Patchouly..Amber, takes the edge off the sharpness.
    3. Patchouli Antique....Les Néréides..Warm, and inviting.
    Don't panic. Just stay calm, and reload....

  3. #33

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    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    scentimental - thanks for the clarification - I didn't mean to argue with you and I totally understand the role of patchouli in the classical chypre (Tiffany is all time favorite), I just wanted to put out there that someone sampling them will not get a distinct patchouli note. I have tried parfum de mervellies, but I don't recall patchouli. I'll have to try it again.

  4. #34

    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    scentimental - thanks for the clarification - I didn't mean to argue with you and I totally understand the role of patchouli in the classical chypre (Tiffany is all time favorite), I just wanted to put out there that someone sampling them will not get a distinct patchouli note. I have tried parfum de mervellies, but I don't recall patchouli. I'll have to try it again.
    Oh, no problem bbBD, I didn't think you were arguing with me. I just needed to clarify my the reasons for some of my selections given that the thread really was about up-front patchouli fragrances. A funny thing about the Parfum des Merveilles. Sometimes the patchouli is really strong and up front, sometimes it tends to stay in the background. I think this has a lot to do with how clean the skin is. For example, applied after a shower I would suspect the patchouli wouldn't show up much; applied 12 hours after a shower when the oils on the skin have had a chance to develop, it might show up more prominently. I think patchouli is an ingredient whose projection has a lot to do with body chemistry and how clean one's skin is. I think the other perfume ingredient that works this way is oakmoss. I have found sweaty, unwashed skin magnifies chypres and sometimes does really strange things to them. Just some ramblings of a febrile mind. I did talk about patchouli though Jenson.

    scentemental

  5. #35

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    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    Excellent.

    I have a couple more, both by Histoire de Parfums - Patchouli Noir (Rose + Patchouli) and 1826 (amber + patchouli)

  6. #36
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    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    Quote Originally Posted by scentemental View Post
    A funny thing about the Parfum des Merveilles. Sometimes the patchouli is really strong and up front, sometimes it tends to stay in the background. I think this has a lot to do with how clean the skin is. scentemental
    I'm glad you clarified this scentemental - I was a little puzzled when I read it. I own the Parfum des Merveilles and I really don't get get much patchouli from it at all. Not like I do with other, more patchouli prominent scents that I own (or have smelled more than once) that are listed above. Now, I want to smell it again, after reading this thread. This time I'll wear it when I'm 'dirty'!

    jenson: In my opinion, Purple Patchouli and White Patchouli by Tom Ford are really not patchouli prominent fragrances. PP is just...weird. It's the only one of the TF Private Blends that has given me a skin rash. The last time I sampled it is going to be my last! WP is great, and I agree that it's rose/patchouli/hairpsray accord is evident - but if you are looking for a more complex scent in the same vein go for the one you mentioned Voleur de Roses, instead. Or, if you want something cheaper, try Cannabis Rose by Fresh.
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

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  7. #37

    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    Ice*men for a fresh patchouli?
    Shameless Plug: Sales thread with Roses Musk, Rose Poivree, and others.
    Looking for lot of samples of female fragrances.

  8. #38

    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    I'm not sure how we all missed this one: Le Labo Patchouli 24. Turin gave it an excellent review in his book - 4 or 5 stars as I recall.
    Everyone is entitled to his own opinions, but not his own facts. Daniel Moynihan

  9. #39

    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    Quote Originally Posted by irish View Post
    Ice*men for a fresh patchouli?
    oh yes! how could i froget abotu A*Men! will sample Ice*men over the weekend at a mall! Thnx Irish

    Quote Originally Posted by Snafoo View Post
    I'm not sure how we all missed this one: Le Labo Patchouli 24. Turin gave it an excellent review in his book - 4 or 5 stars as I recall.
    Oh yes! i have had the good fortune of sampling Rose 31 and Vanille44...both of which were top notch. i can only imagine how Le Labo would do Patchouli... Thnx Snafoo.

  10. #40

    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    ........
    Last edited by jenson; 12th December 2008 at 07:38 PM.

  11. #41

    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    for those who are interested to know lil bit more on this wonderful note...this is a overview of a Patchouli Organic (oil) from Madagascar.


    Latin Name: Pogostemon cablin
    Country of Origin: Madagascar

    Description:
    The scent of the 60's; when increased interest and traveling in India and Eastern cultures introduced Patchouli to the West. However, many people who base their perception of Patchouli on memories of the 60's have never smelled high quality oil. Distinctly herbaceous and musky in aroma, a good Patchouli Oil has a satisfying earthy quality, that is great to"ground"a person. It is a very rich and long-lasting oil. The aroma can be rather crude when the oil is young and grows more refined with age, as it becomes a valued"vintage oil". The scent of Patchouli will linger longer than most other Essential Oils, and should be used sparingly.

    Cultivation Method: Certified Organic
    Extraction Method: Steam Distilled
    Extracted From: Aged leaves
    Color: Translucent yellow to deep syrupy brown, depending on the age of the oil.
    Perfumery Note: Base
    Consistency: Liquid to syrupy.

    Aromatherapy Properties: Great skin care ingredient and cell rejuvenator. Helps to find peace of mind and is a wonderful aphrodisiac. Also a good masking agent for unpleasant aromas. Due to its remarkable staying power, Patchouli is a great fixative ingredient (a fixative is a substance that binds other compounds, slowing down their evaporation and thereby making their fragrance last longer).Suggested Use:Use a few drops in a diffuser to mask unpleasant odors, or to enhance the aroma climate of your home. Add in low doses to skin and hair care. If your partner likes this 'scent of India', you can surround yourself with it by adding 9 drops to 1oz. of unscented body care product, or adding up to 30 drops to 1oz. of Carrier Oil to be dabbed on sparingly as a perfume.

    Blends Well With: Geranium, Rose, Citrus oils, Vetiver and Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Clove, Neroli.

    History: Most fabrics and carpets from India carry the scent of Patchouli leaves to repel moths and other critters. In the East it is also commonly used around the house because it is said to prevent disease and to release negative emotions, putting problems in proportion.Specific Safety Information:No known toxicity.
    Last edited by jenson; 10th December 2008 at 11:37 AM.

  12. #42

    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    Patches are often so different from each other -- I really appreciate reading the distinctions between them before I try. Coromandel and Patchouli Leaves are two of my favorite fragrances -- both variations on Patchouli/Amber. Both nearly gourmand. I think that combo may be the trick for me. But I don't like Voleur de Roses (too girly-rosy) or Patchouli Patch (old-fashioned hippy patch to my nose) at all.

    Patchouli 24 is another fragrance I wear a lot, but to me, it has nothing to do with Patchouli. I'm sure it's in there but I don't really smell it. Patchouli 24 is a weird gourmand -- first birch-tar barbecue with some leather, then radiant vanilla biscotti. Like come nibble some biscotti inside my furry Afghan coat! It's not exactly in the patch category.

    Right now, I am so curious about these patches: Jalaine, Santa Maria Novella, Anat Fritz and the Micalief. Can anyone talk me through a sample order -- what makes each different?
    Last edited by Chestnut; 10th December 2008 at 01:24 PM.

  13. #43

    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    Quote Originally Posted by Chestnut View Post
    Right now, I am so curious about these patches: Jalaine, Santa Maria Novella, Anat Fritz and the Micalief. Can anyone talk me through a sample order -- what makes each different?
    ditto that! even i wished everyone would respond with a brief review on the scents they are referring us to...this gives enuff picture on what kinda patch to expect.

  14. #44

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    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    Quote Originally Posted by lizzie_j View Post
    My favorite Patchouli, so far is Jalaine Patchouli. Absolutely rich and true. If you LOVE patchouli I strongly recommend sampling.
    You said it!! I also have a love of patchouli, partly ascribed to my age. While I have, appreciate and enjoy Gentleman, Tiffany for Men, Voleur de Roses, Patchouli Leaves, and Patchouli Patch, I was hugely impressed several months ago when I experienced Jalaine's Patchouli Perfume Oil! As lizzie_j implies, it is the purest representation of an "iron fist in a velvet glove" metaphor of any patchouli scent familiar to me. Truly amazing.

    wicozani

  15. #45

    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1


    Can't and shouldn't forget Davidoff's Zino's predominantly ambery patchouli, geranium, rose accord.

    I have a small bottle of patchouli oil (15mls) that I have been carefully aging over the years, 17 years to be exact. It's amazingly intense, complex, rich, and super smooth. One drop is sufficient for 24 hours of redolent output.

    scentemental
    Last edited by scentemental; 10th December 2008 at 09:04 PM.

  16. #46
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    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    Purplebird7 has a bottle of Santa Maria Patch I've tried. It is really dense & rich, I'd call it serious, even. It is the least sweet patchouli I've encountered. It feels a bit woody but almost charred and syrupy in it's density. Maybe Purplebird will comment.

  17. #47

    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    Quote Originally Posted by scentemental View Post
    Can't and shouldn't forget Davidoff's Zino's predominantly ambery patchouli, geranium, rose accord.

    I have a small bottle of patchouli oil (15mls) that I have been carefully aging over the years, 17 years to be exact. It's amazingly intense, complex, rich, and super smooth. One drop is sufficient for 24 hours of redolent output.

    scentemental
    Ahhh..Zino..long time no see.

    I'm too thinkin of getting different kind of patchouli oils from around the world....some sites are offering 10ml for anywhere between $20-$50..depending on where they are sourcing the patch from.... a whole new world for me! should be exciting!

    Patch Oil aged for over 17 years?...wow....could you please suggest a scent which captures this texture well(just for reference)...?
    Last edited by jenson; 10th December 2008 at 09:38 PM.

  18. #48

    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    Purplebird7 has a bottle of Santa Maria Patch I've tried. It is really dense & rich, I'd call it serious, even. It is the least sweet patchouli I've encountered. It feels a bit woody but almost charred and syrupy in it's density. Maybe Purplebird will comment.
    sounds right up my alley thnxxxxx!

    Les Nereides Patchouli Antique also seems to be a good option...i dont' have to pay thru my nose for it!

  19. #49

    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    The Santa Maria Novella starts out herbal, almost wine-y, and then it goes straight to the woody heart of the patchouli without any sweetness except that which exists in the patchouli, itself. As kumquat said when she tried mine, "it reminds me of a pirate's chest." You've got to love patchouli to love SMN. But I do love patchouli. My other favorites are Montale Patchouli Leaves and Black Aoud, Jalaine Patchouli, and L'Artisan Patchouli Patch. I even revel in the patchouli notes in Aromatics Elixir, another personal fave. Aramis has long been on my list of men's patch-based fragrances, and I have recently fallen for Givenchy Gentleman. There are many, many more that I fail to mention. Long ago, I used to wear straight patchouli e.o., but no more. There are too many artful ways to use this substance to its advantage.

  20. #50

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    Default Re: Best of Patchouli - Greatest hits Vol.1

    Quote Originally Posted by Chestnut View Post

    Right now, I am so curious about these patches: Jalaine, Santa Maria Novella, Anat Fritz and the Micalief. Can anyone talk me through a sample order -- what makes each different?
    Jalaine patchouli is probably the best I've ever experienced (which is a lot). It is so rich and smooth you really just want to eat it. A lot of the Jalaine fragrances have an amber/vanillic feel to them, and this is no exception. It's way pricey as you know, but you literally only need a single drop for an all-day application.

    Santa Maria Novella (which I just tested again last night and can still smell on me) is like getting multiple patchouli fragrances in one. It starts out as a 'standard' high end patchouli, not unlike Mazzolari. It's not as intense as Mazzaolari and it's smoother than Montale. By the time the fragrance reaches the heart, the patchouli takes on a smokier and more distinct aroma, and then it becomes more and more woody as it reaches the base. It's really quite unique. I myself have been trying to decide on a high-end patchouli to buy. Since I have a large decant of Montale already, I've been deciding between Mazzolari, SMN, Profumum, and Etro. I just need to try the Farmacita ss Anunziata version before I can make up my mind. As of now the SMN is the best of the bunch.

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