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  1. #1

    Default Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Yup, two recommendation request threads in one day - you can tell I'm about to place an order at TPC, can't you?

    I'm looking for rich, spicy, oriental takes on rose, with caveat of them being not too sweet and not too gourmand.

    Roses I've tried and loved:

    Serge Lutens' Sa Majeste la Rose - one of my favorite soliflores
    Eau d'Italie's Paestum Rose - the one that inspired my current quest

    Roses I've tried and am neutral on:

    The Different Company Rose Poivree - nice, but too fruity on me; papaya comes to mind strongly for some reason
    CB I Hate Perfume's Tea/Rose - smells wonderful; lasts five seconds
    Czech & Speake's #88 - sickly heavy grape-crush rose with a nice sandalwood note
    Comme des Garcons' Series Red: Rose - a nice fruity rose that smells nice at first then turns badly synthetic on my skin
    Domenico Caraceni - I realize this has been sainted lately, and it's alright, but not my thing
    Dyptique's Opone - more saffron than rose, but good as a saffron fragrance

    Roses I did not like:

    Montale's Aoud Roses Petals - monochromatic rose/oud is not my thing
    ELDO's Rossy di Palma - gag no thanks

    Non-rose fragrances with a rose note I love:

    Comme des Garcons Parfum - I've become totally infatuated with this recently
    Ava Luxe's Rasa - an extreme musk fragrance made wearable by a touch of rose

    I should state than I'm not looking for a Montale, both due to price and not being in an oud-mood lately ( not that I'll rule out something with an oud note out ).

    Notes that I like paired with rose: cinnamon, cardamom, clove, carnation, myrrh, cedar, leather, incense, sandalwood

    Nothing too heavy on vanilla or lavender, please.

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    Last edited by Sugandaraja; 10th December 2008 at 05:37 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Marketed towards women but you ought to try Parfums de Rosine Pouissere de Rose. It fits your requirements to a T.


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  3. #3


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    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Amouage, Lyric is actually marketed as a "rose oriental" however, as a lover of all thing Amouage, it is very feminine. Definately try this one before buying.
    Last edited by TheAttorney; 10th December 2008 at 05:11 AM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Chanel Coco is a rose oriental--rich, spicy, soft, but also extremely strong in the 80's style. My preferred concentration is the EDP, but a man might prefer the EDT.

  5. #5


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    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    Chanel Coco is a rose oriental--rich, spicy, soft, but also extremely strong in the 80's style. My preferred concentration is the EDP, but a man might prefer the EDT.
    Definately a favorite of mine on the ladies, but may be a bit too feminine on a man though?
    Last edited by TheAttorney; 10th December 2008 at 05:21 AM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Thanks for your suggestions!

    As for the masculine/feminine divide, I have no problem wearing female fragrances a long as they're not too sweet. For those of you who know it, take Sa Majeste as your marker - nothing much sweeter than that.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Diptyques Le Eau dan Ombrie (something to that effect)
    TDC Rose Poivree

    TNMA
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  8. #8

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Quote Originally Posted by thenmarcher View Post
    Diptyques Le Eau dan Ombrie (something to that effect)
    TDC Rose Poivree

    TNMA
    Oh! I'd forgotten I'd tried Rose Poivree. I'll add it to the list. I'll have to try the Dyptique - I liked their Opone.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Lagerfeld KL Homme

  10. #10

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    1881/Cerruti

    "Floriental" with a touch of rose in the middle, though not a rose-heavy scent.
    Snarky is as snarky does.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Hammam Bouquet for sure.

    Nahema (Guerlain), Musk (Villoresi), Brûlure de Rose (PG), Sa Majesté la Rose (Lutens) and the Rosine range are worth exploring as well.
    L'amour fait songer, vivre et croire. Il a, pour réchauffer le coeur, un rayon de plus que la gloire; et ce rayon, c'est le bonheur. (Victor HUGO)

  12. #12


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    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    Thanks for your suggestions!

    As for the masculine/feminine divide, I have no problem wearing female fragrances a long as they're not too sweet. For those of you who know it, take Sa Majeste as your marker - nothing much sweeter than that.
    In that case, give Lyric and Coco madamioselle a try. Enjoy!

  13. #13

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    I second Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet for a sightly spiced rose with a woody base.
    L'Ombre dans l'eau is a fav of mines among the diptyques and a good damascena rose scent too; it's not an oriental though, not spicy at all, but a very green wet damascena with blackcurrant fruity hints. You might give to Tom Ford White Patchouli a try: it has a very pleasant rose heart in the middle. Another suggestion is L'Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de roses, a bend of rose and plum hints on a earthy patchouli base, or you could try the Dior feminine rip-off of this, midnight poison, where they muted a bit the plum and amplified the rose-patchouli accord.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    I know it's a ladies one but Midnight Poison is an interesting rose, it's not too sweet and certainly isn't a gourmand.
    The Candy Perfume Boy:One boy's obsession with perfume and all things smelly.

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  15. #15

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Incense Rosé and Rose Chyprée (not yet in production, but samples are available) by Andy Tauer!!!

  16. #16

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    If you don't care much about gender labeling, you could also give 'L'inspiratrice' by Divine a try. It's a rose/patchouli.
    No guru, not method, no teacher
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  17. #17

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    I can't think of a really masculine rose oriental. Parfum Sacre is quite sweet up front but settles down to a very beautiful and wearable spice/incense/floral accord with a prominent rose note. But it's really neither a masculine nor exactly a rose fragrance. I'd be interested to hear anyone else's take on how prominent the rose is.
    Come to think of it, most of my thinking about genres of fragrance in this genre-bending era has been about chypres and fougeres. Anybody willing to give a bit of a list of good masculine orientals? I suppose you could just list half the Serge Lutens catalogue, but beyond that?
    I feel like there are a number of 60's-80's patch-heavy floral orientals that a man could wear with pleasure but I haven't done enough sniffing since the last time I got shamed away from the women's counter at Macy's and slunk back down to suffer in the basement purgatory of insipid masculines.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Washington Tremlett Black Tie
    Creed Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare
    Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet & Castile
    Crown Maréchale Original, if you can find it.

    and not to forget: AdP Colonia
    If you like Paestum, you should also try Amouage Jubilation XXV
    My Wardrobe
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  19. #19

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Quote Originally Posted by Strollyourlobster View Post
    Come to think of it, most of my thinking about genres of fragrance in this genre-bending era has been about chypres and fougeres. Anybody willing to give a bit of a list of good masculine orientals? I suppose you could just list half the Serge Lutens catalogue, but beyond that?
    I'm thinking a lot of Montale would count, as would a lot of men's fragrances that focus on vetiver and sandalwood. Tauer's L'Air strikes me as a good example of a "masculine" oriental.

    I think the problem is defining oriental - I generally think of orientals as some combination of spicy, resinous, balsamic or ambery notes, usually rich and somewhat heavy, sometimes incensey or leathery but not green, aquatic, citrusy or very floral. Others definitons may vary, of course.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    I'm thinking a lot of Montale would count, as would a lot of men's fragrances that focus on vetiver and sandalwood. Tauer's L'Air strikes me as a good example of a "masculine" oriental.

    I think the problem is defining oriental - I generally think of orientals as some combination of spicy, resinous, balsamic or ambery notes, usually rich and somewhat heavy, sometimes incensey or leathery but not green, aquatic, citrusy or very floral. Others definitons may vary, of course.
    have you tried KL Homme by Lagerfeld...? if you appreciat L'Air, then im sure you will find what you are lookign for in KL Homme. It's one of the most satisfying scents i have in my wardrobe. i use it like a miser as it's kinda hard to find now (not impossible)
    Last edited by jenson; 10th December 2008 at 11:40 AM.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Rose Kashmirie by Les Parfums de Rosine seems to fit your description : rich, oriental and spicy. It is very long lasting too.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Anglomania by Vivienne Westwood is another fantastic Rose, it's quite spicy as well with notes such as Leather, Cardomman, Coriander and Green Tea.
    The Candy Perfume Boy:One boy's obsession with perfume and all things smelly.

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  23. #23
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    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    Chanel Coco is a rose oriental--rich, spicy, soft, but also extremely strong in the 80's style. My preferred concentration is the EDP, but a man might prefer the EDT.
    Coco is a very rich, baroque-style oriental which I like to wear and do not consider too feminine. I use the EDP concentration also. Some men prefer the pure parfum.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Well I've tried most of the rose scents on your lists and many others as rose is one of my favorite notes in men's fragrance. The obvious ommission to the list and my personal favorite of the entire group is Le Labo Rose 31. It is an addictive mix of roses with vetiver, woods, patchouli and oud among its 31 ingredients.

    I also suggest Washington Tremlett's Black Tie (as per the Good Lifes suggestion) - a beautiful geranium rose that leans towards the conservative side as far as an oriental blend goes, but is wonderful.

    Of course Montale is bursting with rose scents that might fill the bill. Of these Black Aoud and Golden Aoud are my favorite roses.
    Last edited by Buzzlepuff; 10th December 2008 at 04:11 PM. Reason: spelling

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Noir de Noir by Tom Ford
    Kelly Caleche by Hermes
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

  26. #26

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Rose 31 definately deserves a try, so does Lyric Man by Amouage

  27. #27

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Most of the great ones have already been mentioned. I would like to add:

    Aroma M Geisha Nobara-Cha: was just trying a sample of this the other day. From a little known house, N-Cha is composed of solid ingredients...it smells like fresh roses with a woody-ambery base. Nice.

    Creed Fleur de Bulgarie (not the private collection): super high-quality bulgarian rose oil mixed with a luscious base of musk and ambergris. Musky gothic rose.
    -

  28. #28

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Frederice Malle's Une Rose - although it may not be 'oriental', is a definite take on quality rose material that I believe men should be able to pull off. "treating rose gentle pays dividends...." - from Luca Turin's review of UR in Perfumes: The Guide. I enjoyed my recent wearing of it the other day.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    There's a huge dry rose note in the latter half of MPG's Secret Melange. Before the rose emerges it is a melange (sorry, had to ) of spices, predominantly clove.
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  30. #30
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    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    my personal favourite rose would be tdc's rose poivree, but i'll second (our fourth, actually!) hammam bouquet by penhaligons

  31. #31

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Thanks for all your suggestions! Anyone know where I can get samples of Hammam Bouquet and MPG's Secret Melange?

    Also, any thoughts on Serge Lutens' Rose De Nuit? I've been looking at some reviews and it sounds like it might be up my alley.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre d'Orange. Rose pushed to the edge on a base of patchouli and incense.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Have you tried Ormonde Jayne's TA'IF? It's exotic and beautiful. Though it's sold as a woman's fragrance, I don't see why a man couldn't wear it!

  34. #34

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Quote Originally Posted by scentsual View Post
    Frederice Malle's Une Rose - although it may not be 'oriental', is a definite take on quality rose material that I believe men should be able to pull off. "treating rose gentle pays dividends...." - from Luca Turin's review of UR in Perfumes: The Guide. I enjoyed my recent wearing of it the other day.
    Une Rose is a must test. Powerfully prominent rose note with resonance throughout the day. The base faithfully replicates the smell of the soil in a rose garden.

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    Also, any thoughts on Serge Lutens' Rose De Nuit? I've been looking at some reviews and it sounds like it might be up my alley.
    Leathery rose chypre with a classic feel.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre d'Orange. Rose pushed to the edge on a base of patchouli and incense.
    Outstanding recommendation, Ruggles. Rossy de Palma is one of my favorite rose-centric scents. Cocoa and benzoin blend well with the patchouli and incense. Give it a few more chances, Galamb_Borong, before writing this one off.

    Amouage Lyric Woman.Notes of bergamot, spicy cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, rose, angelica, jasmine, ylang-ylang, geranium, orris, oakmoss, musk, wood, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean, frankincense. The base smells phenomenal on me.

    Ormonde Jayne Ta'if. Sweet spicy rose.
    Last edited by Sloan; 11th December 2008 at 02:53 AM.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    For an Oriental rose fragrance, I'd highly recommend sampling Lorenzo Villoresi Musk. It's a soft, sweet, and powdery rose note. It's not very masculine but one of the best rose scents out there IMO.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Another vote for Hammam Bouquet, may also want to try Penhaligon's new Elixir, supposed to be a new take on HB with a definite oriental/rose vibe. I haven't tried it yet but looking to sample it soon.

  37. #37
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    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    Thanks for all your suggestions! Anyone know where I can get samples of Hammam Bouquet and MPG's Secret Melange?

    Also, any thoughts on Serge Lutens' Rose De Nuit? I've been looking at some reviews and it sounds like it might be up my alley.
    Beauty Encounter sells carded samples of most MPG scents, check there.

    Please try Rose De Nuit. I smelled it for the 1st time a week ago, and it's a strange and fascinating rose chypre. I didn't mention it before, because of the 'oriental' in the title of this thread, but this is not your everyday rose scent.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

  38. #38

    Default Re: Hunting for an Oriental Rose...

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Beauty Encounter sells carded samples of most MPG scents, check there.
    Please try Rose De Nuit. I smelled it for the 1st time a week ago, and it's a strange and fascinating rose chypre. I didn't mention it before, because of the 'oriental' in the title of this thread, but this is not your everyday rose scent.
    Thank you! I'll check it out; I'll likely be making my order today.

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