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  1. #1

    Default We need a better name for the "citrus" family

    I was thinking about this yesterday.

    In old-school fragrance theory, there’s only a few scent families, built around a few fundamental accords: fougeres, chypres, orientals, etc.

    The traditional scent families tell you the architecture of a fragrance, while leaving a lot of latitude for the particular feel of it. That's different from modern classifications, which tell you 'fresh' or 'woody' or 'aquatic' and so on.

    Fougeres are built around lavender and coumarin, oakmoss optional. They cover everything from the boyish modesty of Canoe to the jock-strap intensity of Kouros.

    Chyrpes are built on bergamot and oakmoss. It’s a versatile platform on which you can build anything from Miss Dior Cherie to Yatagan.

    Similarly orientals. Vanilla + Spice. Sweet fizzy Opium PH, dry smoky Idole – take your pick. Heck, Guerlain’s Vetiver is an oriental in technical terms (tonka + coriander and nutmeg)

    There’s a hole here. Citrus and herb. Classic fundamental accord you can build a lot of things around. Original Eau de Cologne recipe from the Napoleonic era was citrus and rosemary.

    Calling these ‘citrus’ scents is no good. Sure, citrus is the dominant note of a lot of them. But the fundamental citrus/herb accord underlies a whole lot of more complex scents, that you’d never even think of calling ‘citrus’ alone.

    Take Rochas Lui. It’s aromatic-woody in character. And yet architecturally, it’s built around the accord of neroli and bison grass.

    Or Cuiron pour Homme. Neroli and “fresh notes” are the fundamental accord; architecturally it’s citrus + herb – but you’d no more call it a ‘citrus’ scent than you’d call Kouros a lavender scent.

    Even Acqua di Gio. Sure, it’s got all the watery synthetic molecules. But it’s the same “hesperidic notes” (i.e. citrus) and rosemary structure as Giovanni Maria Farina’s original cologne 200+ years ago.

    So…we need a better name for this family. Citrus is misleading…I think ‘aromatic’ is too generic.

    I suggest either ‘True Cologne’ or ‘Farina’. Put it in the pantheon with chypre and fougere and oriental.

    (NOTE: Is all this family-making useful if it doesn’t tell you about a scent’s character – fresh or heavy, aquatic or musky? Yes. I’ll go into why later.)
    Last edited by alkman; 10th December 2008 at 06:50 PM. Reason: fragance families, chypre, fougere, oriental, citrus

  2. #2
    Basenotes Institution 30 Roses's Avatar
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    Default Re: We need a better name for the "citrus" family

    Isn't the citrus family of fragrances also called hesperidic?

  3. #3

    Default Re: We need a better name for the "citrus" family

    On the boards here we have adopted the term "classic" edc of "traditional" edc for things like farina or guerlain imperiale.

    Neroli is a floral note, it comes from citrus trees, but in my mind a "citrus" note comes from the fruit. It is in a massive number of fragrances as a heart note.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

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  4. #4
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    Default Re: We need a better name for the "citrus" family

    Quote Originally Posted by 30 Roses View Post
    Isn't the citrus family of fragrances also called hesperidic?
    Yes, that's what I was going to say.
    "The plant that you have in your home - have you ever truly looked at it? Have you allowed that familiar yet mysterious being we call a plant to teach you its secrets? Have you noticed how deeply peaceful it is? How it is surrounded by a field of stillness? The moment you become aware of a plant's emanation of stillness and peace, that plant becomes your teacher."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  5. #5

    Default Re: We need a better name for the "citrus" family

    How 'bout "Zest Organics"?
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    Mark Buxton-Wood & Absinthe

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  6. #6

    Default Re: We need a better name for the "citrus" family

    Quote Originally Posted by 30 Roses View Post
    Isn't the citrus family of fragrances also called hesperidic?
    Good for me! tnx.

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