Bandit sounds good to me.
With an eccentric wardrobe, expressive face and huge red hair, I tend to attract my fair share of attention. Now I need a scent that will suit my taste, yet be suitable for formal business and academic day and night occasions.
I do not want: something that's common in Europe, noticeably synthetic, fresh, fruity or sweet.
Preferably: dark, woody or spicy,yet lady like. The dry down is the important part, and it should be lasting. 12h plus is ideal.
I welcome any suggestions and you are of course welcome to peek at my small and selective wardrobe, if you like.
Bandit sounds good to me.
Bandit I have and love dearly, so you were spot on! Yet it tends get too harsh and herby green on my skin in this cold Scandinavian weather. I use it only in hot climate, where the leather really come out. One of only a handful scents I've worn year after year.
Maybe I was unclear that I want suggestions on perfumes I have not yet tried.
None of those I have really suit these particular needs in the winter.
Do you care if it's marketed as masculine?
Have you tried Andy Tauer's Lonestar Memories or Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Parfum d'Habit, but very lightly sprayed for you so they'll be closer to the skin, and I'm talking maybe just one spray.
I was also going to mention Alexander McQueen's Kingdom or Bulgari Black, but I know I'll get slammed.
Last edited by silverbullet; 15th December 2008 at 12:18 AM.
Oh, I think you should check out the Comme des Garcons Incense line. They are very different, substantial scents. Some are very exotic, others are more reserved. But every one is quite unique! One would suit you, I'm certain of that.
"The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas
I found Mitsouko EDP to be resinous, a tad woody (from the vetiver and oakmoss), dry peach and spice. Also, Chanel No.5 pure parfum has some similar qualities--spicy dried peach--but it is in a floral aldehydic context.
In more of an oriental...I recently sampled Profumum Fiore d'Ambre, and found it to be a lovely spicy patchouli and amber scent. Quite gorgeous for a man or a woman, but also very expensive.
Based on your comments and your wardrobe, here are a few that I think you might like...
Parfumerie Generale - Cuir D'Iris
An iris and leather fragrance that's resinous and a touch "edgy". Iris, leather, cardamom, vanilla, vetiver...
Ayala Moriel - Razala
A very odd oriental that's based on myrrh and tuberose, rich, smoky, spicy and sweet. Myrrh, tuberose, blood orange, black pepper, oud, ambergris...
Midnight Violet - Ava Luxe
A smoky, earthy violet fragrance with a very unusual take on this note. Violet, orris, cedar, civet, sandalwood, musk...
Mmmm...I agree with the Mitsouko. Classic, yet there is a funkiness and mystery about it that is really compelling.
You might also consider:
Noir Epices by Frederic Malle. One of my favorite spice scents.
KenzoAmour Indian Holi though it may be a little too sweet for you. It has a rice steam note that is awesome.
Tam Dao (a current favorite sandalwood)
Costume National 21.
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How about Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Precieux ?
For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.
Let me suggest Parfumerie Generale's Iris Taizo, one of my favourites. Someone described it as "dusty iris", I agree. I recently learned this is supposed to be for men - I hadn't noticed, but then again I don't care to much about these things!
George Sand by Maître Parfumeur & Gantier
Tolu by Ormande Jayne
Sel de Vetiver
But once you get locked into a serious perfume collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can.
Such delicious and interesting suggestions!
Andy Tauer's stuff does sound worth samling.
Mitsouko edp and No5 parfum are very ladylike indeed on me, but so feminine and sweet they would suit more intimate, or at least private occasions better. I do smell like a rather obvious flirt in those. My skin brings out all the sweetness in those and much less of the woody notes.
Psychotrope is definitely on my test list, but not for formals.
Tam Dao, I am seriously considering to go and retest, for this specific purpose.
Fiore d'ambre, Iris Taizo and cuir d'iris all sound very intriguing.
Midnight violet too, and...
I will go read and learn more about all those I don't know.
(Oh, if you knowledgeable and wonderful people happen to have any ideas based on what I like that is totally unsuitable for serious meetings and stiff surroundings give them too. I need inspiration after giving up on sniffing and buying new perfume for many years and just now coming back).
Feminite du Bois by Shiseido (discontinued) It can still be found, but is not a common fragrance. If you cannot find it, I would suggest a "Bois" from the Serge Lutens range of frags!
Oooooops! Just checked your wardrobe...nevermind...should have looked BEFORE posting!
Last edited by ubuandibeme; 15th December 2008 at 01:22 PM.
FdB, the only frag I'd buy in a litre bottle. If it wasn't becoming so rare I would still use it for all occasions. On me it's perfection. Not sweet at all, rich, elegant and unusual. The cardamom spiciness stays all the way through. Mmmmm....
CdG's Jaisalmer would work, if only it had more depth and three times more staying power.It certainly has the right spicyness and woodiness. Now I use it for layering only.
Avignon is a little too cold for winter and raises too many questions from those who recognise the smell of frankincense but can't place it. Kyoto is too girly on me and Zagorsk is an ex boyfriends scent. Maybe I should try Ouarzazate again, I have no recollection of it now.
Perhaps also Chanel Coromandel -- this is a nice balance between dark and ladylike. So is Cuir de Russie, since you like leather. Another one to try might be 10 Corso Como, although it's been a long time since I smelled that one. I second Lonestar Memories if you like tar -- if sprayed lightly or dabbed, it's not as harsh as it seems at first. I also sometimes layer it with a vanilla scent, which smells amazing.
When I'm in business situations, especially when I know I'll be in a small room huddled around a table with a dozen people for a few hours, I like something that stays fairly close to my body. Generally speaking, perfume oils, body cremes/lotions and body powders project less so I often wear those. You could tuck a little decant of the perfume in your purse to put on later if you want.
Donna Karan Black Cashmere is available in both a body powder and a body cream. The former projects the least. The notes are saffron, masala spices, white pepper, clove, nutmeg, pimento berries, broom flower, patchouli, rose, incense, wengue wood, bois de miel, and labdanum. Donna Karan also has a series of scents called Donna Karan Essences. You may want to try Wenge and Labdanum from this line too. They are also available as oils and lotions.
Barbara Bui La Parfum is available in white oil body spray. The notes are spices, incense, jasmine, white musk, sandalwood, heliotrope, cedar and amber. It's been discontinued but it isn't hard to find. http://www.mybestperfume.com/main.ph...mid=304&cat=10 It's very comforting and soft, while still having the woods and spice you are looking for.
After giving some thought to this one, I've come up with Dior Addict by Christian Dior...if you'd like to try some send me a PM and I'll gladly mail a sample to you!
For those business occasions, I would highly recommend Ormonde Woman. It stays close to the skin.
For other times, why not explore the Ava Luxe line, especially Vamp, Biba, Shisha, or Madame X?
The later Chanels have been so disappointing I haven't even bothered to try Coromandel. But I certainly will give it a chance.
Cuir de Russie is one favourite I never got around to buying a bottle of. Is the reformulation anything like the parfum was in late 80's? That would have been just perfect. But if the new version is less animalic I would break down and cry, I believe.
Black Cashmere was too bland as remember it, but then I wasn't looking for "conservative" either. It's readily available to test at stores here too. Will check out.
Ubuandibeme, you should have stayed with your original intuition, straight to my all time No1 favourite.
Unfortunately Addict (along with Hypnotic Poison) were two of the smells that put me off visiting fragrance shops for all those years. There are some synthetics in those that make me physically sick. For real.
From the notes Barbara Bui and several of the Ava Luxe sound interesting too. Are they sweet?
All your amazing input makes it much clearer to me what I want.
Something warm with no sweetness nor any freshness or decidedly green notes after the top notes. As long as it's reasonably pleasant I don't care much about the top really.
Heart: Dry resinous / woody/ spicy heart notes. Some flower in the heart is fine as long as it's used to round out the other notes rather than play centre stage. I can imagine a lot of things in the heart, not really sure what I want here. Woods and what? Bees wax? Spikenard? Cedar? Coffee? Anything warm or balsamic and dry goes, I guess.
My focus has been on the Base: A dry woody, smoky, spicy, leather, tar or tobacco. Very long lasting without the usual vanillic notes (the dry, woody darkness of natural vanilla tincture or absolue is fine though).
I could go for Jicky parfum if it didn't smell (both to me and those who know me) like my own blends did fifteen years ago. (This would be really boasting, unless all my blends smelled like that!
And this time I want something I have not had before. Probably even find something I wouldn't have tried without all these inspired and inspiring suggestions.
Thank you all! I have a very big smile on my face and my brain full of mental scents.
Last edited by iez; 15th December 2008 at 06:20 PM.
Femininte du Bois - cedar, plums, lasts forever, radiates enormously. Fabulous stuff. Still on the shelves here in Switzerland - PM me if you want some pointers on how to get some!
Last edited by Wordbird; 15th December 2008 at 06:43 PM.
"A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel
I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729
Comme des Garcons EdP.
hi iez, i might well be totally off-base, but do you know gucci pour homme and m7? m7 might be too rich, itīs very woody, warm, dry and a tad sweet if i remember correctly (havenīt yet bought it). gucci pour homme has a woody frankincense note that should be woody enough to not raise any questions. i wore gucci pour homme a few weeks ago when i had a really rough time at work and it was really perfect. calm, serious, still interesting and (i hope!) hard to overdose on.
i really like menīs perfumes for work occasions. i should wear anataeus again!
hope you have fun sniffing through all the recommandations and find a few new fumes
Since you are already a fan of Feminite du Bois, I HIGHLY recommend sampling the Lutens line - their wood frags in particular - I guarantee you won't be disappointed! Be sure to check back and let us know what new wonderful scents you find!
L'Artisan Dzing! - leather, animals and cotton candy.
ELDO Jasmine et Cigarette - loud, brash jasmine and tobacco.
Ava Luxe Kretek - the loudest clove note ever over a rich tobacco and amber. ( I love wearing this layered with Comme Des Garcons' Original! )
Michael Storer Winter Star - an indescribable fragrance; everyone seems to get something different. I get gardenia, nutmeg, civet and amber; a warm quirky oriental with MASSIVE sillage and longevity.
Perfume D'Empire Fougere Bengale - curry, immortelle, lavender, tobacco and tonka.
In general, I've found Comme Des Garcons, Eau D'Italie, CB I Hate Perfume, Ava Luxe and ELDO all have a penchant for making off-beat scents. ELDO I should warn you about, though - they're a very loud, weird line, and tend to be very hit and miss. Ava Luxe and Eau D'Italie, on the other hand, I'd whole-heartedly recommend to anyone.
iez - another line you may want to try is Vero Profumo. Particularly Onda. Feminine suede leather that performs some serious shape shifting over its lifespan. Kiki is another option (since you like Jicky). Strange wonderful gourmand lavender.
Knize Ten may be another option - a very sophisticated leathery iris. It reads as "feminine" on me and has the most amazing sillage - especially after the first couple hours.
Let us know what you choose.
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"Wardrobe" and Reviews of everything I've tried to date. Please come visit and let me know what you think.
I can add ELdO's Rossy de Palma as a suggestion to try. Since you appreciate the Robert Piguet fragrances, you might enjoy VISA. The top is white peach but the rose/leather drydown is well worth the wait. Both last a very long time.
"Mom .now the kitten smells like Chamade!"
You sound like a pretty femme fatale in a grey tailleur iez!
I could see you wearing something like Chanel Coco (the original one, not the madamoiselle) or even Bois des Iles from Les Exclusifs. Some otners I could see are
Malle's Un fleur de cassie
Caron Narcisse Noir
Serge Lutens Datura Noir
Serge Lutens Bois de Violette
Creed Angelique Encense
CDG Series 1: Tea
Annick Goutal Heure Exquise
Guerlain Sous le vent
Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia
I do think you'd like Cuir de Russie, in the parfum form. I don't know exactly how it compares to the 80s version, but I have some vintage EDT and I find the bases to be comparable. To me it's warm animalic leather perfection, like a second skin (and wouldn't project too much for office wear).
Speaking of ELdO, I just tried Rien again. This is a BIG, powerful, long-lasting, totally unsweet woody leather. Seems like it would be worth trying, at least to see how dry you want to get. Not sure about it being office-appropriate unless dabbed very lightly!
Update a year later: Wordbird very kindly sent me a few bottles of my long time favourite FdB edt. This, with pure oudh oil underneath has since been my everyday fragrance. It makes me feel like I'm really myself, lovely and weird in the same breath. Not too discrete and not too offensive. The combination is warm and dry, with the FdB camouflaging the more difficult aspects af the oudh. This combination works anywhere for me. Thanks for all your input!
Oooh, sounds really nice! I never thought of layering FdB with anything
I didn't realize this was an update on an older thread until i got down to the end and your layered scent sounds wonderful, but if you're still searching/sampling, seeing that you're a Piguet fan with Bandit and Fracas, have you tried Baghari? It's definitely sweet and floral, but spicy and woody for sure. It's one of my favorite florientals along with Patou's Sublime. Vintage Replique is another oriental chypre I love that you might also enjoy... this is much greener than the other two, but just as sumptuous. All have fabulous drydowns, all are classic if not strictly conservative, and as I guy I wear them all the time without hesitation.
I offer you perfume,
More for its pleasure than for yours;
You perfume perfume.
--Anonymous Ancient Greek Love Lyric
Ungaro I - (Though a male scent, can easily be passed for a womans scent.)
Bal A Versailles ( A very dark and decadent scent..sinful!)
Black Orchid (Extremely potent and I'd say it is judicious for a woman of whimsical persona.)
Mitsuoko - (Mildly spicy with a peach/musky/dark/vanilla trance)
Bandit - Robert Piguet (Great scent, mildly animalic and abundantly dark!)
Take care and good luck!
- I Want To Appreciate You With My Eyes Closed-
Chanel Antaeus Equipped With A Double Whipping Of A Black Leather Jacket
Montale's Black Aoud
My suggestions, for your continuing adventure, are:
Parfums d'Empire Ambre Russe
Parfumerie Generale Coze
Acqua di Bella Ca' Luna
The Party The Party In Manhattan
Paco Rabanne Metal
Pierre Balmain Balmain de Balmain
Estee Lauder Azuree
Chanel Vintage Pour Monseiur
Last edited by Hillaire; 18th January 2010 at 04:24 AM.
How about A Travers le Miroir by Thierry Mugler? It's a bitter Tuberose that's woody and herbal. Seeing as you own Fracas this may be right up your street, it's not common either.
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