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  1. #1

    Default Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    I've heard rumors about one mysterious Parfumerie Generale fragrance called Cuir Santalion. A casual search reveals nothing more than a few people selling it and some brief Basenoter comments.

    Basenotes has more leather fans than Texas has cows, and the Parfumerie Generale clique has grown significantly this year, so I must ask... where are the reviews?

    If you've tried it, please enlighten those of us in the dark!

  2. #2

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Wow. Somehow i totally missed this one. I am very curious to here how it is too. Hopefully someone will chime in.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    our Bner, RJRober used to own a 100ml of this rare juice made by PG for his inner circle of freinds...

  4. #4

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    I think only 10 or 20 bottles of this were made, and the recipe relegated to a secured vault somewhere in PG land

    I'd love to hear from someone who's tried this as well.


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  5. #5

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    I was looking through my fragrance samples and found a vial of this. It's the real thing; it has a "tag" on the vial with the house's signature type. It must have been included in one of the bottles I bought from them. Honestly, to my nose anyway, it's pleasant but nothing special and not nearly as good as some of the available bottles from this house. I gave it a full-day wear yesterday and it didn't strike me as earth-shattering. I have 1/2 a vial left which I'll wear on another day and report back if my opinion changes.

    Somethimes the rarity of a fragrace can elevate its actual worth.
    Last edited by Butthead53; 23rd December 2008 at 05:19 AM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Oh, I`ve never heard of it!

    I could add some more `secret` PG fragrance names, alike
    - Pluie Cypsan
    - Arome Assassin
    - Doux Barbare
    All of them were made in 2006 year.

    And let me not to open new names of future launches of PG. Those names are so hard to invent and to get copyrighted...
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Quote Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post
    Oh, I`ve never heard of it!

    I could add some more `secret` PG fragrance names, alike
    - Pluie Cypsan
    - Arome Assassin
    - Doux Barbare
    All of them were made in 2006 year.

    And let me not to open new names of future launches of PG. Those names are so hard to invent and to get copyrighted...
    Wow - I am even more curious about those three! I've heard nothing about them.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Galamb_Borong,
    it was the scents that Pierre made to have more experience and for estimation of interest to them.
    As far as I know: there were some amount of vials made and shipped to customers and shops, after that no full-bottles were made.
    But!
    One could ask for them in PG laboratory - seems to me that these scents should rest (in peace?) under some numbers in Private Collection.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  9. #9

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Interesting to say the least..you can count me in as a fan of this house.

  10. #10

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    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Waaaaaaaaaaah! I want one! Waaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

  11. #11

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Quote Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post
    I could add some more `secret` PG fragrance names, alike
    - Pluie Cypsan
    - Arome Assassin
    - Doux Barbare
    All of them were made in 2006 year.
    Wow! I've never heard of any of these 3! Do you know anything about them? Have you had the chance to try them? I'm very curious to know more...

  12. #12

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Quote Originally Posted by archmemory View Post
    Wow! I've never heard of any of these 3! Do you know anything about them? Have you had the chance to try them? I'm very curious to know more...
    Yes, I have half-vials of each and could describe them after another wearing to refresh my memory.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  13. #13

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Curious to hear your thoughts once you've sampled!

    Edit: For those curious about samples, PM me - I've found a source for Cuir Santalion.
    Last edited by Sugandaraja; 24th December 2008 at 09:54 PM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Ok, guys, it`s been a long time to find out the samples and give them a full test wearing.
    As some folks contact me to remind me of my duty - here I am and my mini-reviews.

    Doux Barbare – Parfumerie Generale
    A classic spicy leathery chypre. Sweet rose\geranium, spices and fruity notes with dark counterpoint of wormwood and dark sillage of castoreum, leather and then benjoin/vetiver. Sounds like some classics, but I cannot point it out. It`s nodded to rose-orris of 1000 Jean Patou, maybe Mitsouko Guerlain and leather of Bandit Piguet. Also to vetiver-vanilla-benjoin of Habanita sillage (this combo turns sour powdery on me every time).
    If it`s original fragrance – it could be launched in Private Collection PG with L`Ombre Fauve, Cuir d`Iris, Bois de Copaiba…
    Likely notes: Bergamot, geranium, rose, carnation, orris, birchtar/castoreum, musk, vetiver, vanilla.

    Arome Assassin – Parfumerie Generale
    It`s simpler and harder with this scent. I feel it like a modern version of Mitsouko Guerlain aerated! More air and more space. Less sweet than MG parfum. Citrus notes, peach and aldehydes of Mitsouko, rose, vetiver, labdanum, moss – and AIR! I suppose it`s some more silver clouds here - instead of dark clouds of Mitsouko. I guess it`s some white flowers here, with aldehydes.
    If this scent was made just for training the perfumer skills, like some classics exercise – it should be marked very high! A+++

    Pluie Cypsan – Parfumerie Generale
    Some contemporary scent – after forementioned classics.
    It`s freshest to the point of washing powder, airy&wet flowery synthetic scent, that is not confused by hyper-freshness. The scent one could smell when go out from the night in disco to the deserted streets of night – to find out that some rain (or snow) just ended. A lot of air, whiteness, clouds, freshness – not natural in close sniffing. It`s hard to tell – what is that aldehyde-powered flower? Polyethylene jasmine, hedione or frozen LOTV\violets in snow? Branded washing powder scented by Freshness of The Alpes Air? The freshness still persists when musks, leather (synthetics) and some freshly broken branches in ice appears.
    So I believe – it`s prototype of Psychotrope PG, or its first trial. As far as I could recall the later.
    Likely notes of Fettered Rain (?): violet, lily of the valley, jasmine, leather, musks.

    All the samples marked 50% - 96°
    That`s all, folks!

    I believe that these scents are still in the perfumer book of PG (and maybe in Private Collection named by some secret numbers). And maybe he will launched them one day
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  15. #15

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    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Thanks for those descriptions moonfish - have you ever heard of a fragrance that was titled with two people's names, it was something like "Joe and mary" or other names - that's the idea.

    I did procure a 5ml sample of Cuir Santalion. It's a wildly animalistic, rich leather. It's definitely a precursor to Cuir d'Iris, but without the raisin and cocoa notes. I'm glad I have a sample, but it didn't blow me away.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Moon Fish, thanks for the great descriptions!

    BbDB, I believe you're referring to "Marilyn & John". There's some talk of it on this BN thread:
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=212512
    I have a small sample of it, but unfortunately I'm not half as articulate as Moon Fish.. I'll revisit it tonight, and try to come up with something.

  17. #17

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    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    i have a small decant of Cuir Santalion, although i can't really find it right now......as i remember, it was a nice, thick, heavy leather scent with a infusion of petrol/gasoline notes....i really liked it actually.....i wish they actually produced it.

  18. #18

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    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Thanks archmemory! That's the one I was thinking about. They has samples forever on TPC, but I neglected to buy one. The only 'rare' PG I was able to get my hands on was Haramans, which is a rich cocoa fragrance. I think it's also long gone from TPC.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Quote Originally Posted by archmemory View Post
    Moon Fish, thanks for the great descriptions!

    BbDB, I believe you're referring to "Marilyn & John". There's some talk of it on this BN thread:
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=212512
    I have a small sample of it, but unfortunately I'm not half as articulate as Moon Fish.. I'll revisit it tonight, and try to come up with something.
    Hi BbDB and archmemory!
    I`ve never heard of Marilyn & John, only smelled the fragrance named John Nollett Signature scent.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  20. #20

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Thanks for such dynamic review Moon fish!!

    btw, Doux Barbare, does it have anything in common with Ungaro I...some of the "prime" notes sounds very alike...


    Marilyn & John: i have sampled this...as far as i remember it was a floral. javagreen, dont you remember this one?

  21. #21

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    Thanks for such dynamic review Moon fish!!

    btw, Doux Barbare, does it have anything in common with Ungaro I...some of the "prime" notes sounds very alike...


    Marilyn & John: i have sampled this...as far as i remember it was a floral. javagreen, dont you remember this one?
    Nope, jenson,
    Doux Barbare is rather classic feminine scent, alike Dioressence or something...
    I`ve got Ungaro I and they are different beasts.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  22. #22

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    awright! thnx moon fish!

  23. #23

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Marilyn & John : My memory about this is really faint since I had sampled this a long while ago, but from what I can recollect... it was somewhat similar in the drydown to SMN Nostalgia, same PVC notes.


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  24. #24

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Wow. Nice reviews and good insight on these "perfumer exercises" / "mystery frags." Of course, the one that sounds like my cup of tea to me would be Cuir Santalion.

    I would like to note that I find Pierre Guillaume's use of synthetics creative and interesting. In almost all of his creations, I feel that there is a little highlighted (noticable but not "in your face" ala ELDO) synthetic element that adds to the scent's character, not hindering it. For example, the slightly salty "airy-ness" in Harmatan Noir, the slight tinge of PVC in Felanilla, and the aerated laundry-chemical green pralined hay/cereal note in Cedre Sandaraque. (smells better than it sounds) Judging from the reviews of his scents on this thread, I'd guess that he was practicing his skills in the usage of synthetics.
    Last edited by moltening; 30th January 2009 at 11:07 AM.

  25. #25

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    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Good point, Moltening... to the extent PG uses synthetics it is successful in that the fragrances don't fall into the trap that others do of smelling blatantly synthetic - from what I've samples all PGs are fairly harmonious.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    If anyone is interested, I have a bottle of Cuir Santalion that I offer small decants from (you can find the details at the link below).

  27. #27

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    Quote Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post
    Ok, guys, it`s been a long time to find out the samples and give them a full test wearing.
    As some folks contact me to remind me of my duty - here I am and my mini-reviews.

    Doux Barbare – Parfumerie Generale
    A classic spicy leathery chypre. Sweet rose\geranium, spices and fruity notes with dark counterpoint of wormwood and dark sillage of castoreum, leather and then benjoin/vetiver. Sounds like some classics, but I cannot point it out. It`s nodded to rose-orris of 1000 Jean Patou, maybe Mitsouko Guerlain and leather of Bandit Piguet. Also to vetiver-vanilla-benjoin of Habanita sillage (this combo turns sour powdery on me every time).
    If it`s original fragrance – it could be launched in Private Collection PG with L`Ombre Fauve, Cuir d`Iris, Bois de Copaiba…
    Likely notes: Bergamot, geranium, rose, carnation, orris, birchtar/castoreum, musk, vetiver, vanilla.

    Arome Assassin – Parfumerie Generale
    It`s simpler and harder with this scent. I feel it like a modern version of Mitsouko Guerlain aerated! More air and more space. Less sweet than MG parfum. Citrus notes, peach and aldehydes of Mitsouko, rose, vetiver, labdanum, moss – and AIR! I suppose it`s some more silver clouds here - instead of dark clouds of Mitsouko. I guess it`s some white flowers here, with aldehydes.
    If this scent was made just for training the perfumer skills, like some classics exercise – it should be marked very high! A+++

    Pluie Cypsan – Parfumerie Generale
    Some contemporary scent – after forementioned classics.
    It`s freshest to the point of washing powder, airy&wet flowery synthetic scent, that is not confused by hyper-freshness. The scent one could smell when go out from the night in disco to the deserted streets of night – to find out that some rain (or snow) just ended. A lot of air, whiteness, clouds, freshness – not natural in close sniffing. It`s hard to tell – what is that aldehyde-powered flower? Polyethylene jasmine, hedione or frozen LOTV\violets in snow? Branded washing powder scented by Freshness of The Alpes Air? The freshness still persists when musks, leather (synthetics) and some freshly broken branches in ice appears.
    So I believe – it`s prototype of Psychotrope PG, or its first trial. As far as I could recall the later.
    Likely notes of Fettered Rain (?): violet, lily of the valley, jasmine, leather, musks.

    All the samples marked 50% - 96°
    That`s all, folks!

    I believe that these scents are still in the perfumer book of PG (and maybe in Private Collection named by some secret numbers). And maybe he will launched them one day
    I feel a little guilty for digging up an old thread but there aren't very many that discuss these rare creations from Pierre Guillaume. Excellent descriptions of these three, too, which I've never heard of but I have heard of and tried Cuir Santalion, Haramens, Marilyn & John, and Mio Bjao. I happen to be wearing CS today, which reminds me a great deal of Cuir Venenum but with some animalic notes - and some actual leather! They both have a "grape" quality to it - as best as I can describe it - but CS actually brings the "cuir" as their names imply. It's definitely not my go to leather fragrance - Cuir d'Iris does a better job of providingn that fix - but I do like this one a lot. There's a bit of lavender in there and I think maybe some violets but I'm not entirely sure, and I get occasional glimpses of tobacco.

    Marilyn & John smelled a lot like a floral/herbal potpourri. Not at all medicinal or herbal in the sense of SMN's Potpourri, but more along the lines of a candle store, where all the smells of the candles appeal to the olfactory senses at the same time. Except where you might be walking down one aisle and smell in particular some nearby candles more than the general overwhelming "candle" scents. It's been a while since I've worn it but that's the way I remember it. It doesn't remind me of any of the other PG scents that I've tried but I haven't tried all of them yet.

    Haramens is one that I like a lot. Cocoa and musk with a very dirty skanky smell. Dirty and edible and I'll stop there because any other comments would be inappropriate. I seem to recall Musc Maori smelling something along these lines but not nearly as interesting. Haremens is not something I can wear to the office - not at all, but I find it very stimulating and intriguing.

    Mio Bjao I can't remember very well but another one that reminded me of the grape/fruity notes of Cuir Venenum but without the leather at all (CV did at least have a "suede" like note to it). Something about it smelled like a fruity summer cocktail, if I remember correctly. It was odd, that much I do remember, something you can't quite put your finger on.

    I would love to get my hands on Pluie Cypsan, Arome Assassin, and Doux Barbare, if they ever come around.
    Last edited by cbstarker; 12th April 2012 at 06:40 PM.
    Currently looking for Ava Luxe Midnight Violet

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  28. #28
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    I love all of Pierre Guillaume's offerings his earlier ones as well as his latest.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Cuir Santalion - PG's "mystery" fragrance...

    And four years on... I still haven't tried this!

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