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  1. #1

    Default Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    So can I blather on in a picky, high-maintenance way, asking for advice on a floral or florals?

    The summary is: I'm looking for un-"pretty", un-"fresh", fairly intense, fairly dark, but not too sexy florals, to fill the floral gap in my collection. If you want to skip the rest of my babbling and just recommend something, feel more than free.

    But if you're willing to read on, the details are:

    I've declared in the past that I don't like florals, and I have very few of them. But I suspect that I just may not like the florals currently in fashion and available at the department stores, and since I seldom send off for samples of florals, I'm not smelling anything else. "Pretty", or fruity, or aldehydic, or powdery florals generally put me off.

    I'm feeling a craving for florals with substance, a little darkness, opacity. If that makes any sense. Maybe in the flower itself, maybe due to association with darker or more solid notes.

    I do like some clear, bright, green florals, but that category is happily filled for me with Jo Malone White Jasmine & Mint and, recently, Chanel No. 19. (If this violates the aldehyde dislike...well, I'm puzzled. ) So I'm looking to fill the darker category now.

    On other assorted preferences:

    Tuberose is lovely, but makes me feel like I'm my mother, so tuberose as a defining note is not a good thing.

    I'm over quota on leather fragrances, so I shouldn't get any more, though I do love them.

    I love orange (the fruit; I seldom like the blossom in perfume), cedar, sandalwood, tea, tobacco, smoke, some incense, some spices, nutty or cereal notes, some vanilla, some chocolate. I love convincing, thick, syrupy rose. I have a moderate tolerance for civet.

    I dislike oud wood (I think), clove, basil, too much cinnamon, and some incense. (On the incense, I love Serge Noire and I'm near to disliking Tam Dao.) Amber smells exactly like green olives to me, which is a fine smell, but not one that I associate with flowers.

    I have no problem with unisex or men's fragrances.

    For some specific examples:

    I like Black Orchid - it has the darkness and opacity I'm looking for - but I'm not looking for something that sexy.

    I love CB I Hate Perfume Tea/Rose, at least in the absolute. It's the first successful entry in the category that I'm after, I just want more items in the category.

    I like Paestum Rose, but I don't consider it a floral; there's too much incense for me to really perceive the rose.

    The Elizabeth W florals are mostly very nice, but simpler and lighter and prettier than I'm after.

    So, any suggestions? I'm looking to fill a LuckyScent and/or Perfumed Court sample order with a number of possibilities.

    Thanks very much,

    Crayfish

  2. #2
    irish's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    When I clicked on this thread I was ready to answer Black Orchid, but I see you already have that one.
    Well then I would encourage you to try Czech and Speak 88
    Last edited by irish; 29th December 2008 at 05:16 AM.
    Shameless Plug: Sales thread with Roses Musk, Rose Poivree, and others.
    Looking for lot of samples of female fragrances.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Have you tried Fresh Cannabis Rose?
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  4. #4

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    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Your post has made me rethink my own quest for florals, as I have previously posted I am having a lot of trouble with powder so maybe I'm actually looking for something similar to you based on your likes :-)

    (Sorry for not recommending anything, but if I do find something I'll be sure to tell you)

    yours in anticipation...

  5. #5

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Quote Originally Posted by irish View Post
    When I clicked on this thread I was ready to answer Black Orchid, but I see you already have that one.
    Well then I would encourage you to try Czech and Speak 88
    Thanks! I'll put Czech and Speak 88 on the sample list.

    After you mentioned it and I mentioned it, I thought I'd give Black Orchid another try, so I sprayed on from my sample vial. (I don't own more than a sample yet.) I liked it very much, found it less femme-fataleish than I remembered, detected a note that reminds me of one of the notes that I liked best in Sushi Imperiale ... and then just as I was falling in love with it, I got a headache that intensified with every snjiff. Grr. I'll give it another try, in a few days.

    Crayfish

  6. #6

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Quote Originally Posted by petruccijc View Post
    Have you tried Fresh Cannabis Rose?
    I have, but I tried it in my "I don't like florals" phase and may not have given it a chance. There's a shop a twenty minute walk from my house that carries most of the Fresh line, so I'll go spray some on and give it another try. Thanks for reminding me of it.

    Crayfish

  7. #7

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Hi Crayfish. If you like violet at all, you might try Ava Luxe MIDNIGHT VIOLET. It's dark, complex, and beautiful, and it doesn't scream "SEX".

    The other one that comes to my mind is MAUBOUSSIN. It is a rich, deep, not-too-sweet fruity/floral mix.

    Good luck!
    Last edited by Haunani; 30th December 2008 at 03:27 AM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Thanks! I'm putting Midnight Violet and Mauboussin in my sample order. I do love violets in real life and in memory of violet perfume, but it's been years since I liked them in a perfume, because they tend to be powdery. A darker violet may be just right.

    Crayfish

  9. #9
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    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Two scents getting play in my house may be of interest to you. Don't know if you would call them dark, but they have a certain opaqueness of non-floral aspects crowding in.

    One is a masculine, Kenzo Power. My wife is stealing this from me. The floral aspect is diminished enough for most guys, but it's there for the duration of the scent. The other is L'Instant de Guerlain, women's version. I like the men's, but the floral part seems significantly reduced or gone in the men's version. In the women's, the floral angle plays second fiddle to the spicy, but it's still there, and I like that. I could see a guy who likes a fair bit of floral easily wearing the women's, too.

    To be honest, I think L'Instant is sexy - but probably not too sexy by your definition. Less than Black Orchid, I think. Of course, no perfume is too sexy from my perspective. If I could find it, I'd buy it for my wife immediately!

    I do agree C&S88 is both dark and floral - a good recommendation.
    * * * *

  10. #10

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    How about Rose Poivrée? To me that was the most tolerable rose-centered fragrance I've encountered.
    I've seen it described as a rose with soiled underwear, so "fresh" and "pretty" are definitely out. I'd add that it doesn't seem all that raunchy to me, but I'm notoriously unaware of anything remotely raunchy in scent. I'm just that innocent.
    It is known that there are an infinite number of worlds, simply because there is an infinite amount of space for them to be in. However, not every one of them is inhabited. Any finite number divided by infinity is as near nothing as makes no odds, so the average population of all the planets in the Universe can be said to be zero. From this it follows that the population of the whole Universe is also zero, and that any people you may meet from time to time are merely products of a deranged imagination.

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  11. #11

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    I love and would recomment jasmin et cigarette by l'etat libre d'orange: floral but not cloyng or too sweet, and definitely not "pretty" but very beautiful, it makes me think of gorgeous, androginous movie stars like Greta Garbo

  12. #12
    kess's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    I recommend Hermes Hiris to everyone :-) but it's worth a try. it's a very "unfloral" floral. it definitely has some "darkness and opacity" to it, without being cloying and headache inducing like Black Orchid (black orchid is interesting and intriguing the first couple of hours but it just would not go away! i tried it a few times and get the same reaction).
    Last edited by kess; 19th February 2009 at 10:24 PM.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Mona di Orio 'Nuit Noir' is just the ticket! Dark orange liquer & a bit of civet.
    Last edited by kumquat; 19th February 2009 at 10:54 PM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Quote Originally Posted by veuve amiot View Post
    How about Rose Poivrée? To me that was the most tolerable rose-centered fragrance I've encountered...
    Oh, good - this thread got bumped! I second Rose Poivree as another possibility

    It would be great to hear a report back from you, by the way, Crayfish!

  15. #15
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    I re-read your take on florals & dislike of same. I have similar taste, it seems. You might like some dry florals, versions of those that are often sweet. Some I've found I really prefer are;
    Creed: Jasmal, & Tuberose Indiana, E. Lauder: White Linen, Lutens: Sa Majeste la Rose, Tauer: le Maroc pour Elle
    Last edited by kumquat; 20th February 2009 at 03:29 PM.

  16. #16
    Ken_Russell's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Bulgari Jasmin Noire would be my recommendation.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Gres Cabaret: salty, woody rose. Unique and intelligent while still passing the 'smells great' test.
    Rochas Tocade: rose with a twist of lemon, some smoky vanilla, a pinch of salt... ought to be 'pretty pretty' but somehow manages not to be too frou frou and stay interesting.

    For spicy florals, try carnations. They're a good halfway point. I like Lush's Potion solid perfume. Might be too clovey for you, but worth a try as a category.

    Also possibly worth trying, though I don't know if you'll like it with your feelings about aldehydes: YSL Rive Gauche. Rose and clanging Ylang Ylang. Or, if you can find a bottle, Calandre, which is even better than Rive GAuche but smells very like the original version.

    Oranges? Fendi Theorema and Hermes Elixir Des Merveilles (Eau des Merveilles also well worth trying)

    One lush, rich, deep, dark floral that might well rock your world is the OLD L'Occitane Neroli edp. It's unlike any other neroli I have ever smelled - as if it's the good girl gone bad. But I stress this is the OLD one, not the current Quatre Vents version. PM me if you'd like to try it.

    But you want REALLY dark flowers?
    Caron Narcisse Noir: the original and best Black Narcissus, as worn by Gloria Swanson. Utter fabulosity and vampishness. Evening wear only.
    Last edited by Wordbird; 20th February 2009 at 10:39 AM.
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

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  18. #18

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Some very good suggestions here around! I suggest you to try
    Bandit: there's florals in it but it's a feral bitter-green thick chypre
    Habanita: again lily, rose and other florals drenched in a smoky tobaccoish and dusty vetiver.
    Hermès Hiris
    Hermès Faubourg, 24: it's quite floral (orange blossom, fresia etc...) and not so dark but it has an opaque silky finish to it that could appeal to you.
    McQueen Kingdom is a rose+cumin liqueur
    Givenchy Ysatis: it's a dense, opaque ylang ylang fragrance, a timeless classic.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Tom Ford's Japon Noir
    Ysatis Iris
    Amouage's Lyric Woman

    also, you might want to give this "male" scent a try: Ungaro III. (dark roses on a mossy graveyard)

    cheers!

  20. #20

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Ooh! Hey! I almost missed the reawakening of this thread.

    Thank you all so much for the suggestions. I will report back, but I'm _still_ recovering from the affect that my recent cold had on my sense of smell! It's been...um.... about six weeks now, and some of my favorites are still annoying me. (Others are "working" again, though, so things seem to be improving.)

    So I can still accumulate samples, but actually sampling them is largely a waste of time, because I'm counting on my nose and sinuses getting back to normal. Eventually. I hope. (Yikes!)

    Crayfish

  21. #21

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    My Theorema sample came! This was one of the ones kindly recommended in this thread. I've been wanting to try it for a while, since I went on an orange craze.

    And while I like it, I increasingly suspect that there are a number of notes, or maybe I mean a number of fragrance chemicals, to which I am asnomic. I smell no oranges at all! I smell a nice gingery kick, very similar to the nice gingery kick that I get in Sushi Imperiale. There's a fraction more darkness and food-spiciness than in Sushi Imperiale but otherwise, they're almost twins to my nose. And I don't think that that's normal.

    So the good news is that I haven't fallen in love with a discontinued classic, and the bad news is, well, the same thing. I wanted to fall in love with it.

    Crayfish

    Edited to add: But I will be trying it again in a couple of weeks, in case it continues to be All My Nose's Fault.
    Last edited by Crayfish; 24th February 2009 at 04:26 AM.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Have you tried Midnight Rose by Ava Luxe? It is a very earthy fragrance which starts off smelling like leather (you would probably like that) then alters over a period of time through dark mossy and woody notes until the violet sweetness comes through. It's not something you'd wear for the office and some might not like the almost musty note, but I love the fact that it is so individual and changes so much in the course of a couple of hours. The only problem for me is getting the stuff, as postage to England from the Ava Luxe website is exhorbitant! You can buy samples from Perfumed court.
    Best wishes
    Linda H

  23. #23

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Oh, no! I don't like Czech & Speake 88!

    I expected to like it. I wanted to like it. I was planning to like it. But I really don't. There's a very distinctive note that makes it Not Work for me. It's interesting enough that I'm going to keep trying, repeatedly, to see if I have one of those sudden reversals and love it. But it's not happening so far.

    I can't figure out what the part I dislike is. The only description I can come up with is citron with a dab of civet, though I know that neither of those are listed notes. I like civet, I like citron, but citron is edible while civet is emphatically not, and they're both very strong rich smells, so the combination makes me queasy.

    Crayfish

  24. #24

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Ok, I am no fan of rose frags in general. I think they smell old-fashioned. But I recently sampled L'Artisan Voleur de Roses and I think this fits what you're asking for. Definitely flower, very dark. I adore it, and I'm also a fan of Black Orchid so maybe some of our tastes run the same. Test this out if you get the chance. It isn't sweet like Black Orchid, but it has a presence you can't ignore. Try it if you can.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    I second Sa Majesté la Rose and 24 Faubourg. And then I want to suggest J'adore from Dior wich I think is a very pretty floral. If you want a floral citrus I would suggest Dior Escale à Portofino.

    If you want to try a very clean tuberose scent that is not very tuberosy you could try Gelsomino from Galimard.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Hello Crayfish
    Have you tried Ormonde Woman yet?
    or L'Artisan Voleur de Roses?
    also you might find Baghari interesting.
    a few others:
    Black Cashmere
    Kelly Caleche
    Autumn treasures: Magnetism, Midnight Orchid, Tea for Two,
    Aimez-Moi, Chinatown, Dzongkha, Five O'Clock Au Gingembre,
    Cittá di Kyoto, Jasmin de Nuit, Jasmin Full, Kelly Calèche, Venezia,
    Douce Amère, Eau de Charlotte, Falling In Love, Chergui, Prada,
    Rose Alexandrie, Hypnôse, Omnia, Flowerbomb, Poivre Piquant,
    Cuir Beluga, 7:15am in Bali, Lolita Lempicka, Fumerie Turque,
    Datura Noir, Songes, Gaultier², L'Ombre Fauve, Kors, My Couture,
    Ligea "La Sirena", Red Aoud, Rose Absolu, Cèdre, Milk, No. 23

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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  27. #27

    lightgreen22's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Tom Fords Purple Patchouli
    its like Hiris on steroids, its very dark and doesn't
    have any sex appeal at all, it smells of damp humid
    potting soil (I thought it smelled exactly like walking though a plant nursery)
    there is a floral accord but its very subdued, it's smells like new buds of flowers
    coming just barely out of the potting soil
    all in all I think this is a very well done scent indeed

  28. #28
    bokaba's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dark, not too sexy florals? (aka: Maybe I could like florals?)

    Penhaligon's Victorian Posy?

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