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  1. #1

    Default ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Are there any designer fragrances (or indeed any fragrances at all?) released without that damn iso e woody ambery stuff anymore?
    All bases seem to smell the same, and the stuff becomes apparent very shortly after the top notes - it drives me crazy. They blend it with this and that - but it always cuts through and ruins them all for me.

    OK so I am exagerating a bit - but not much. Anyone else got woody amber fatigue?
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

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  2. #2

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    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Modern designer releases all seem to be plagued with 'sameness' - I just tried the new Ed Hardy and it wasn't any different (in any meaningful way) from anything else released this year (except Prada Infusion d'Homme, which is at least a little different). I don't even mind Iso Super E - I have both Escentric 01 and Poivre Samarcande and don't mind it. As for non-designer releases, I don't think there's been too much uniformity or dependence on wood/amber at all, in fact quite the opposite. Take a look at the new PG releases, the new Guerlain releases, the new Serge Lutens releases, etc , and you don't find any generic wood/amber bases.

  3. #3

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    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    (I meant, there hasn't been dependence on it in niche perfumery)

  4. #4

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    If you want to see the "bloody woody amber" base done in a more interesting way -- try PG's Felanilla. I guess I'm the only one who thinks it smells a bit banana-ish, but I love it.

    Gotta admit though that Iso E Super is actually a really nice molecule that I don't mind at all.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    My nose may be "under-educated" fragrance-wise but i know Iso E Super is a no no component for me. I struggled with CdG 2 for a while before realising that Iso E S was the culprit. I wish there was a list of frags with IES so i could avoid them. Life's too short to waste on scents which dont like me

  6. #6

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Funny you should post this thread... I'm testing Satellite Padparadscha as I type (not a designer frag, I know). It combines the woodiness of CDG Sequoia which I appreciate with a slightly sweet amber base.

    Bottom line : Me likey


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  7. #7

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    I'm right there with ya Hirch. Although Iso E super has an attractive pull to it, it's in EVERYTHING these days. When my nose is fatigued, it's seriously all I can smell. Fuzzy cedar/woody amber. Everywhere and in everything. I like the observation from others that it's like the MSG of the fragrance world. Although I love chinese food (which has heavy doses of MSG), it makes me sick and I like to avoid it when I can. Same goes for Iso e Super.

    I've noticed that the better niche companies THANKFULLY tend to avoid it.
    Last edited by L'Aventurier; 1st January 2009 at 09:33 PM.
    Sales thread here

  8. #8

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    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    I'm curious - which are the 'better' niche companies that are ISO E - free?

  9. #9

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    For a while I owned, and loved, Dirty English by Juicy Couture, which has a heavy amount of ISO E. One day however, I accidentally sprayed myself at the wrong angle, up my nose, which literally seared my nose for days, and it was all I could smell. ISO E makes me tose tingle to this day, and I had to get rid of my Dirty English for that reason. I do enjoy Encre Noire though, which has a toned-down amount.

  10. #10

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Quote Originally Posted by Sokkou View Post
    For a while I owned, and loved, Dirty English by Juicy Couture, which has a heavy amount of ISO E. One day however, I accidentally sprayed myself at the wrong angle, up my nose, which literally seared my nose for days, and it was all I could smell. ISO E makes me tose tingle to this day, and I had to get rid of my Dirty English for that reason. I do enjoy Encre Noire though, which has a toned-down amount.
    Toned down? I hope this won't ruin Encre Noir for you, but it is 45% Iso E Super, No. 10 in the all-time ISO charts as of 2008. I think the problem is less the substance as such, but the sloppiness with which it is frequently used - as a substitute for decent construction, like ketchup used profusely to camouflage the low quality of hamburger meat. At the rate that both mass and niche brands are churning out frags these days, it's no surprise 95% are banal reruns or outright crap.
    My Wardrobe
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  11. #11

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Yes, absolutely, Cedar/ISE is one of the most over-used wood notes these days. That said, it still feels perfect in Femininite du Bois.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 2nd January 2009 at 03:33 AM.

  12. #12

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    I'm curious - which are the 'better' niche companies that are ISO E - free?
    by Kilian states ALL their ingredients, including how many mg of each are in their fragrances on their website. I've never smelled, or seen Iso E super in any of their fragrances.

    As far as I know, neither does Creed, but I could be wrong. I just haven't detected any so far.

    If you want to be sure to avoid Iso E super, I suggest giving some natural perfume houses a shot, such as:

    Ayala Moriel (which I personally am very impressed with)
    And anything from Profumo.it (which I haven't tried yet, but Hirch like this house and I trust his judgement).
    Sales thread here

  13. #13

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Quote Originally Posted by L'aventurier View Post
    by Kilian states ALL their ingredients, including how many mg of each are in their fragrances on their website. I've never smelled, or seen Iso E super in any of their fragrances.

    As far as I know, neither does Creed, but I could be wrong. I just haven't detected any so far.

    If you want to be sure to avoid Iso E super, I suggest giving some natural perfume houses a shot, such as:

    Ayala Moriel (which I personally am very impressed with)
    And anything from Profumo.it (which I haven't tried yet, but Hirch like this house and I trust his judgement).
    I'd be surprised if the "cedarwood accord" in Straight to Heaven did not contain Iso e Super. But if it isn't obvious, it is being used intelligently.
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  14. #14

    Smile Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    Toned down? I hope this won't ruin Encre Noir for you, but it is 45% Iso E Super, No. 10 in the all-time ISO charts as of 2008.
    Hey, that is interesting. I hope you do not mind me asking I myself could find such information over the internet ? I find these things really interesting actually. It is amazing how many scents are ambers.

    Oh, I myself just ordered "...bl***y woody amber" last week

    But its the trend nowadays. Gotta "be with it" .

  15. #15

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Perfumes are like movies. They just rehashing old ideas until something works.

  16. #16

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Quote Originally Posted by Surfacing View Post
    Hey, that is interesting. I hope you do not mind me asking I myself could find such information over the internet ?
    Sometimes, but in this case the info is from an article in a professional magazine from a licensed database. Check the whole list and reference in this thread, which will probably interest you anyway:

    http://community.basenotes.net/showt...ght=feminit%E9
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  17. #17

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Calone just tagged Iso Super E and said "You are it!"

    The problem here isn't Iso Super E, its the perfumers use of it. Even skilled perfumers are quite banal in its use, especially when they have to compose 15 fragrances an year ranging from contracts with generic designers to niche superhouses. Overdosing an ingredient can be done in two ways: a nose can make the other notes compete or counteract the overdosed note, or allow other notes to meld into the overdosed note (which acts as as a "carrier" of sorts). This latter approach, while usually more successful than the former "counter balance" approach, still requires an adroit hand and a properly engaged brain with no eye on the next contract to pull off. I believe most of the Iso E Super-overdose culprits fall in the former camp, or are just not properly melded with other notes.

    I personally believe Iso E Supers use in Terre d'Hermes is fantastic, and a fine example of the "carrier" approach.
    Last edited by zztopp; 2nd January 2009 at 02:13 AM.
    -

  18. #18

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber


    It was my understanding that Iso-e-super is not a note by itself, that its smell was too subtle to used as such. It is an intensifier, something that prolongs the life and/or sillage of certain woody and smoky notes. Also, this is not a new aromachemical, as it has been used long before Calone (I know zztopp did not state the opposite, but many could interpret it that way). I do think that Molecule 01 has raised awareness of its usage and now we want to smell it everywhere we can. I do not think it should be blamed for the sameness found in several of the new fragrances or the supposed allergies it causes.
    But anyway, that is just an opinion. I currently do not have documents or articles to suppot it, Perhaps someone can provide proof that I am wrong.
    Last edited by irish; 2nd January 2009 at 06:07 AM.
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    Looking for lot of samples of female fragrances.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    ...Take a look at the new PG releases, the new Guerlain releases, the new Serge Lutens releases, etc , and you don't find any generic wood/amber bases.

    Hmm, I don't know about that. Guerlain Homme is chock full of the nastiest, stinkiest, cheapest smelling woody amber I've choked on in a while. I can smell it from across a room.

  20. #20

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    Sometimes, but in this case the info is from an article in a professional magazine from a licensed database. Check the whole list and reference in this thread, which will probably interest you anyway:

    http://community.basenotes.net/showt...ght=feminit%E9
    Appreciate it, thank you .

  21. #21

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    Sometimes, but in this case the info is from an article in a professional magazine from a licensed database. Check the whole list and reference in this thread, which will probably interest you anyway:

    http://community.basenotes.net/showt...ght=feminit%E9
    Now, that is interesting.
    Last edited by irish; 2nd January 2009 at 04:36 AM.
    Shameless Plug: Sales thread with Roses Musk, Rose Poivree, and others.
    Looking for lot of samples of female fragrances.

  22. #22

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Quote Originally Posted by irish View Post

    Also, this is not a new aromachemical, as it has been used long before Calone (I know zztopp did explicitly stated the opposite, but many could interpret it that way).
    By that statement what I meant was that Iso E Super, going by the general tone here, is now the much maligned "synthetic" after years of Calone overuse
    -

  23. #23

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    By that statement what I meant was that Iso E Super, going by the general tone here, is now the much maligned "synthetic" after years of Calone overuse
    What did I say?
    Sorry, I have now corrected the wording of that scentence.
    Last edited by irish; 2nd January 2009 at 06:11 AM.
    Shameless Plug: Sales thread with Roses Musk, Rose Poivree, and others.
    Looking for lot of samples of female fragrances.

  24. #24

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    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Vibert - Good point about Guerlain Homme. I entirely forgot about it when writing my post, probably because I was thinking about the 'better' releases such as Les Elixirs, Quand Vient le Pluie, etc. Although, if that's the only recent release from the houses I mentioned, that's not bad (that is, if you think of Iso E Super as bad).

  25. #25

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Big deal! Does anybody complaining about Iso E Super in good old Declaration Cartier?

    I wonder if someone complained about galbanum in 50-70`s chypres? Or about leather accord apres Bandit Piguet? Or other widespread notes that firstly were The Big Surprise - but then becomes The Common Place...

    I believe that perfumers are working under briefs in which `it should be as successful as XXXX` so they include Iso E Super - as it proved its success. DG Light Blue still is The Hit here, amongst women!

    After a while it should work out its potential (and our patience) - so we`ll get from perfumers something new
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  26. #26
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    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    Vibert - Good point about Guerlain Homme. I entirely forgot about it when writing my post, probably because I was thinking about the 'better' releases such as Les Elixirs, Quand Vient le Pluie, etc. Although, if that's the only recent release from the houses I mentioned, that's not bad (that is, if you think of Iso E Super as bad).
    Actually, I may be altogether anosmic to Iso E Super. (I can't smell the Escentric Molecule scents at all!) I'm suspicious that Karanal, or maybe even Cashmerine, is my woody amber bete noir.

  27. #27

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Quote Originally Posted by irish View Post

    It was my understanding that Iso-e-super is not a note by itself, that its smell was too subtle to used as such.
    No, I have some Iso E Super and it has a fairly strong scent.

  28. #28

    Default Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    Quote Originally Posted by Xplo View Post
    No, I have some Iso E Super and it has a fairly strong scent.
    Sculptureofsoul recently posted that Iso E Super is made of very big molecules, therefore hard to smell continuously, and his theory makes sense to me. IES seems to pass in and out of conscious smelling awareness. But like Xplo said, (when you do smell it) man is it ever potent!
    Sales thread here

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