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  1. #1

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    Default common ingredients/notes in Frederick Malle scents?

    i have many FM samples....and i've been trying to find something i like about any one of them, but there is something common in all the Malle fragrances that makes me feel a little sick......it's not in the opening notes, it's in the midnotes and basenotes....is it the amber they are using? or maybe some ingredient they are using? All of the Malle fragrances have an ambery sweetness that comes out in the drydown, and that is what is causing a bad sensory response on my side......i feel sick every time i smell it......

    any ideas as to what this common note or ingredient may be? i'm leaning towards something in the amber note they use...

  2. #2
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    Default Re: common ingredients/notes in Frederick Malle scents?

    They're all done by different noses, and without really checking to see all the notes in each one, I would hazard a guess that not all of them could have the same single ingredient in common. Maybe you are focusing on a few that come from the same one or two noses? Could that be it?

    Of course, it could also be that the "editor" of the series, Frédéric Malle, has a preference for a certain style that doesn't necessarily match with yours...
    Last edited by JaimeB; 31st December 2008 at 09:17 PM.
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    JaimeB

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  3. #3

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    Default Re: common ingredients/notes in Frederick Malle scents?

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    They're all done by different noses, and without really checking to see all the notes in each one, I would hazard a guess that not all of them could have the same single ingredient in common. Maybe you are focusing on a few that come from the same one or two noses? Could that be it?

    Of course, it could also be that the "editor" of the series, Frédéric Malle, has a preference for a certain style that doesn't necessarily match with yours...
    yeah, i know that certain brands tend to have a 'common' theme through their fragrances.....even if they are designed by different noses----maybe they are guided to have something in common? i dunno....probably not i guess.

    or maybe pending final approval, there are certain commonalities which trend along their development.....i'm not sure...but i definitely feel the same way everytime i sample a FM fragrance! it's very strange actually.

  4. #4

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    Default Re: common ingredients/notes in Frederick Malle scents?

    these are the FM samples i have:

    Bois D'Orage
    Musc Ravageur
    Angelique Sous La Pluie
    Carnal Flower
    Vetiver Extraordinaire
    L'eau D'Hiver
    Lys Mediterranee

  5. #5
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    Default Re: common ingredients/notes in Frederick Malle scents?

    Bois D'Orage (Pierre Bourdon)
    Angelica, Cedar, Vetiver, Iris, Pimento, Galbanum, Patchouli, Incense, Musk

    Musc Ravageur
    (Maurice Roucel)
    Top Notes: Lavender, Bergamot
    Middle Notes: Clove, Cinnamon
    Base Notes: Gaiac wood, Cedar, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Tonka

    Angeliques Sous La Pluie
    (Jean-Claude Elllena)
    Top note: Pink peppercorns, Coriander
    Middle note: Angelica
    Base note: Musk, Cedar

    Carnal Flower
    (Dominique Ropion)
    Bergamot, Melon, Eucalyptus, Ylang Ylang, Salycilates, Jasmine, Tuberose Absolute, Orange Blossom Absolute, Coconut, White Musks

    Vetiver Extraordinaire
    (Dominique Ropion)
    Top note: Fresh notes
    Middle note: Woody accord
    Base note: Vetiver essence, Undergrowth notes

    L'eau D'Hiver
    (Jean-Claude Ellena)
    Bergamot, Angelica, Iris, Jasmine, Heliotrope, White Musc

    Lys Mediterranee
    (Édouard Fléchier)
    Top Notes: White Ginger, Lily of the Valley
    Middle Notes: Angelica, Orange Oil, "Water Rose"
    Base Note: Musk

    Looking at pyramids can be a risky business. Pyramids leave out a lot; they deal in generalities and a limited range of (usually) natural ingredients, whereas perfumes don't usually fit into that reality. Even so, looking at the pyramids can be interesting. Let's see:

    One of the pyramids uses a very vague description of the ingredients used (Vétiver Extraordinaire), so what's really there is almost anybody's guess. Of the seven you list, five have a "musk" note; but there are many different synthetics that can produce a musk note, and the same perfumer often chooses a different one to "fit" different styles of composition. The common presence of the word "musk" doesn't necessarily mean that the same musk is used each time the name appears. One, Carnal Flower, lists "white muscs," for example, which often means muscone (but not always). Still, it may be that you have an aversion to musks notes in general.

    Also, four of the seven are by two noses, Jean-Claude Ellena and Dominique Ropion. Ellena has a very recognizable style; however, Ropion's two listings couldn't be more different, in my opinion. You'd have to draw your own conclusions about this similarity.

    I don't know if this helps, but it seems to me that there isn't a single clear commonality to explain your perceptions. Can you see one in the analysis by pyramids?
    Last edited by JaimeB; 31st December 2008 at 10:59 PM.
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    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

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    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
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  6. #6

    Default Re: common ingredients/notes in Frederick Malle scents?

    Its probably the synthetic musk Cashmeran (Malle's a big fan of it).
    -

  7. #7

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    Default Re: common ingredients/notes in Frederick Malle scents?

    wow Jaime, thanks for putting all those together on here.

    maybe like you guys are saying...it's the synthetic musk or musk notes?

    however, normally i love musks. i'm a big fan of Velvione which is a strong synthetic musk....and have several musk scents in my wardrobe which do NOT evoke any kind of reaction or poor response.

    it's possible like zztopp said that it's a certain synthetic musk? but the strange thing is that the common ground that i'm noticing in the scent of these fragrances is not a musky one really....it's a more sweet ambery note. I just wanted to see if anyone else noticed this 'common' ground in the FM scents....

  8. #8

    Default Re: common ingredients/notes in Frederick Malle scents?

    The way to most likely get to the bottom of this would be to get a complete list of the synthetics off each bottle and see how many are common between all of them. Then to compare the list against the ingredients other frags that don't bother you. Perhaps then it could be isolated.

  9. #9

    Default Re: common ingredients/notes in Frederick Malle scents?

    I have all the fragrances in question. Everso, can you give me two of the fragrances that you find strongly of this note so I can smell them in parallel. I'd love to clear up this mystery.

    - Alex

    Quote Originally Posted by everso View Post
    wow Jaime, thanks for putting all those together on here.

    maybe like you guys are saying...it's the synthetic musk or musk notes?

    however, normally i love musks. i'm a big fan of Velvione which is a strong synthetic musk....and have several musk scents in my wardrobe which do NOT evoke any kind of reaction or poor response.

    it's possible like zztopp said that it's a certain synthetic musk? but the strange thing is that the common ground that i'm noticing in the scent of these fragrances is not a musky one really....it's a more sweet ambery note. I just wanted to see if anyone else noticed this 'common' ground in the FM scents....

  10. #10

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    Default Re: common ingredients/notes in Frederick Malle scents?

    Quote Originally Posted by scentophile View Post
    I have all the fragrances in question. Everso, can you give me two of the fragrances that you find strongly of this note so I can smell them in parallel. I'd love to clear up this mystery.

    - Alex
    OK. how about Bois D'Orage and Musc Ravageur.

    obviously these fragrances smell different, but in the drydown----see if you can spot some sort of similarity coursing through their veins. Lemme know what you think.

  11. #11

    Default Re: common ingredients/notes in Frederick Malle scents?

    The one note I find in common with all the FMs is the smell of joyless, over-refinement. I'd love to spill some civet inside those glass smelling booths of his.

  12. #12

    Default Re: common ingredients/notes in Frederick Malle scents?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    The one note I find in common with all the FMs is the smell of joyless, over-refinement. I'd love to spill some civet inside those glass smelling booths of his.
    Hey Ruggles, I remember us agreeing on this in a previous post about the Malle Fragrances. It's so interesting, they seem SO refined, or tweeked - like, as I mentioned before, a super glossy photograph. It's simply UN-CANNY...

    It's as though in the final editing, the fragrance is laminated. Sounds strange but I can't escape this sensation.
    Last edited by nthny; 2nd January 2009 at 12:45 AM.

  13. #13

    Default

    I know this is an old thread, but since there was no resolution to the question and I have the same one I am bumping it. I too have noticed a sweetness in the drydown which is very, very similar in for example Carnal Flower and Lys Mediterranee. It is a very clean and light sweetness, not heavy or syrupy at all. My guess is that it is a musc combo that FM favors.
    I would love it if any of the knowledgeable people on basenotes could chime in!
    Last edited by Plaisir; 31st October 2012 at 06:23 AM.

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