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  1. #1

    Default Styles of perfumers and interesting observations...

    Every perfumer has his or her style and palette and you often see many similarities in the creations of a perfumer. Jean Claude Ellena has a distinctive style of transparency where he uses his tea accord everywhere. Christopher Sheldrake has his way with balsams and spices. Many of the Firmenich perfumers recycle their accords. Olivier Cresp loves woods. And so on.

    Have you ladies followed the creations of certain perfumers and noticed anything interesting?

    Thanks.

    - Alex

  2. #2

    Default Re: Styles of perfumers and interesting observations...

    I've only sampled 1/3-1/2 of the L'Artisan offerings but I have yet to find one of them that could in any way be described as heavy. To my nose they have a light airiness about them. Not sure if I like it or not, but their rose frag is one of the few rose frags I like.
    "It's now very common to hear people say "I'm rather offended by that." As if that gives them certain rights. It's actually nothing more than a whine. 'I find that offensive.' It has no meaning; it has no purpose; it has no reason to be respected as a phrase. 'I am offended by that.' Well so fucking what." - Stephen Fry

  3. #3
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Styles of perfumers and interesting observations...

    Indeed, Jean Claude Ellena is on a tea kick, but remember he was once a master of the ornate, too. I look forward to him changing his tune again. I think he's so talented.
    Another of my favorite perfumers is Jacques Cavalier, who strikes me as all over the map, spitting out garbage alongside genius. I guess his theme is wild abandon. He's so amusing. He seems to be doing woods now, too.

    and Jacques Polge, perfume god of the universe... He is the master of elegant restraint. Making the impossible seem easy, or seamless. He never ventures far from his signature reserved elegance, and it's a nice thing. I look forward to smelling Beige.

    And Guy Robert seems to love feminine sensuality, but with a complex twist.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Styles of perfumers and interesting observations...

    Bernard Chant liked them strong and distinctive: Aromatics Elixir, Aramis, Cabochard, Azuree, Halston.
    And I like them that way, too.

    Christopher Sheldrake took his style to Chanel when he made Coromandel. Using house ingredients, he expressed his abilities with amber and resin in the thickest, densest, most Oriental Chanel I have ever smelled, and I love it.

    L'Artisan Parfumeurs is more experimental than many other well-known perfume lines, allowing their perfumers great creativity, and their fragrances have a certain transparency.

    Jacques Guerlain was a genius.

    We owe Jean Kerleo of Jean Patou a big thank you for founding the Osmotheque perfume museum in Versaille, which all Basenoters should be required to visit on a pilgrimmage during their lives. I also thank him for Jean Patou 1000.

    Guerlain, Caron, and Chanel each have distinctive bases, and people will find themselves to be most fond of one of the three.

    Francois Robert of Les Parfums de Rosine certainly knows what to do with roses. God, such nice variations.

    Edmond and Michael Roudnitska prove that genetics plays a part in talent. All those beautiful Diors. And now his son is doing some nice work for Parfums Del Rae.

    I include the following link from NowSmellThis.com listing the various perfumers and their creations:

    http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/b...umersAtoG.html

    Thank you, writers of Now Smell This. I really love this reference.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 31st December 2008 at 09:30 PM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Styles of perfumers and interesting observations...

    I've only tried two things by Francis Kurkdjian (how does one pronounce his name?), and I found that they both have the same drydown, even though they are very different perfumes. One for guys (Le Male by JPG) and one for gals (Femme de Dandy by D'Orsay).

    I'm also surprised that I can like one thing by a nose, and yet not like another thing he or she has made.

    Example: Annick Menardo

    Like: Hypnotic Poison, Jaipur Homme, Lolita Lempicka
    Not like: Bulgari Black

  6. #6

    Default Re: Styles of perfumers and interesting observations...

    Bertrand Duchaufour makes such wonderful woody, incense scents: right now I'm thinking of Timbuktu, Dzongkha, and cdG Kyoto. For me he's one of the best.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Styles of perfumers and interesting observations...

    Ernest Beaux's Chanel scents are so ineffably, unmistakeably 'him'. A genius.

    I love JC Ellena, too. A modern great.

    I also have an especial affection for Germanie Cellier, she of Bandit, Fracas, Jolie Madame and the original Vent Vert. Her sapphism inflected her creations in way that was extraordinarily bold -- given her time. She's a really interesting woman. No mainstream perfume house would have the balls to create a 'Bandit' in this day and age.
    This week, 'Chanel Cuir de Russie: Skin Scent' at http://thescentimentalist.blogspot.com/

  8. #8

    Default Re: Styles of perfumers and interesting observations...

    Someone has mentioned Guerlain, but almost all of the fragrances can be easily distinguished as "Guerlain" with many linked with the Guerlinade accord.

    I forgot about Sophia Grosjman who plays with her rose and violets.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Styles of perfumers and interesting observations...

    Quote Originally Posted by alba View Post
    Bertrand Duchaufour makes such wonderful woody, incense scents: right now I'm thinking of Timbuktu, Dzongkha, and cdG Kyoto. For me he's one of the best.
    I second this. I love the expansive aspect of his fragrances. This may sound silly, but they make me feel more ALIVE! I'm also looking forward to trying his Sienne l'Hiver.

    Olivia Giacobetti is another favorite of mine. Perhaps others can describe her style better, I would say that her compositions have a natural (authentic?) "feel" to them, that most are beautifully balanced, and that they have a shimmering quality (think En Passant, Philosykos, Safran Troublant).

  10. #10

    Default Re: Styles of perfumers and interesting observations...

    Sophia Grosjman usually includes either apricot/peach, and a note of rose is almost always present...and the musk she uses is unmistakeable - to my nose at least!

    I do like it when she uses aldehydes as well. Her frags seem to possess sparkle and have a very clean finish. One of my all time favorite perfumers!

  11. #11
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Styles of perfumers and interesting observations...

    I was thinking today, too, about my favorite perfumer Edmond Roudnitska . What a distinctive signature he had!
    Eau Savage, Diorella, Parfum de Therese.
    That addictive citrus over woody depth, in a way he could only do. I was always surprised that he hadn't made Cristalle. Then, I learned only recently he had a hand in after all.

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