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  1. #1

    Default Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Luca Turin
    January 5, 2009


    Purification


    .....Then, without much fuss, after centuries of rituals there came technology. Procter and Gamble’s Febreze contains cyclodextrins, cup-shaped molecules that actually attach to odors. Oddly, as a sort of homage to past magic, P&G still puts fragrance in it, which must complicate things. The stuff works so well guys in the US spray their clothes with it instead of washing them, a fine example of unintended consequences of both magic and technology.

    Last edited by narcus; 7th June 2009 at 11:52 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thanks, as a teen we'd spray Ozium to cover up the smell of marijuana smoke.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I used an entire bottle of Febreze while unpacking things that had been in storage for over a year. My mother's recommendation - spritz Febreze all over the item (soft things like cushions and throws) and then let it whirl around in the drier for 20 minutes or so. It worked like a charm to eliminate musty storage odors. I wonder why they don't make a scentless one.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I hope I can find Febreeze and will certainly try it. I hate to have my best sweaters dry cleaned or washed. A dry cleaned Suede clothes are just not the same any more. I really only want the lining of coats and jackets to be odorless.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Febreeze is fantastic stuff - gets out the smell of smoky bars, which is miraculous. If you can't find any, let me know and next time I go to the UK I'll get you a bottle and post it to you. Not too much of a problem since I'm just up the road in the Weinland.
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729

  6. #6

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thanks, Wordbird. Coop has it. They seem to have a Melon, and a Spring Freshness version, and some Rose. I don't mind Rose if it's from Patou, but hate the cheap smelling ones . What do you think is the least offensive? (Your Avatar looks somehow familiar to me, but it's new?)
    Last edited by narcus; 15th January 2009 at 09:39 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I believe Febreze is more of a temporary solution to mal-odors. The cyclodextrin molecules engulf the odorous molecules, and then stays dormant for a period of time (and hence the nose can't detect the bad smell)...after this, I am not sure if the odor molecule evaporates alongwith the febreze molecule or is liberated instead, resulting in a return of the bad odor..

    A hilarious discussion here: http://blogtown.portlandmercury.com/...w_does_feb.php
    -

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    I believe Febreze is more of a temporary solution to mal-odors. The cyclodextrin molecules engulf the odorous molecules, and then stays dormant for a period of time (and hence the nose can't detect the bad smell)...after this, I am not sure if the odor molecule evaporates alongwith the febreze molecule or is liberated instead, resulting in a return of the bad odor..

    A hilarious discussion here: http://blogtown.portlandmercury.com/...w_does_feb.php
    LMAO - loved that!

    CAN YOU FABREZE FABREZE?!
    Little does he know that he could start a whole branch of chemistry on that one...

    It seems that if you heat the cyclodextrins after inclusion of the odor molecules, you can re-release the odor. Otherwise, because the exterior surface of the cyclodextrin is hydrophilic (likes water), I imagine that the cyclodextrin-encased odor just washes away. Off to some nasty place where bacteria munch away on both the Febreeze and the odor.

    I think of cyclodextrins as a tank-sized tire boot for the little sports cars of odor. Clunk. "You ain't going anywhere, Stinky McAcid." The the Great Flood comes along and washes everything into the Sea of Kenmore. All Hail Febreeze! Or something like that.

    OK - here's the second US patent for Febreeze: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6284231.html

    Looks like it explains why these people in the ads are always getting frisky with stuff after they spray it. You can load the cyclodextrins with pleasant perfumes, that are released (basically exchanged) with the entrapment of the malodorous molecules. The more stink you trap, the more good scent is released. They make sure that there's not too much of it, so that lots of open cyclodextrins are available, and that the perfume isn't something that the cyclodextrins are really going to like. Pretty ingenious, if you ask me.
    * * * *

  9. #9

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    February 2, 2009

    Celebrity


    .....They trade the elusive quality of being, as opposed to merely having. The rich want fame, and the famous want cash.
    It is arguably more common to be rich and obscure than poor and famous, and in any event fame can be converted into
    money more easily than the other way around: consider what Paris Hilton had to endure to go from stinking rich to
    stinking famous.




    Last edited by narcus; 7th June 2009 at 11:52 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    February 2, 2009

    Celebrity



    .....They trade the elusive quality of being, as opposed to merely having. The rich want fame, and the famous want cash.
    It is arguably more common to be rich and obscure than poor and famous, and in any event fame can be converted into
    money more easily than the other way around: consider what Paris Hilton had to endure to go from stinking rich to
    stinking famous.






    Was a "Daftnote" article on this topic necessary ? Perhaps Turin could have provided his skillful insight into a different scent industry (hot) topic instead of stating the obvious. If anything, the anemic celeb fragrance genre has recently improved a bit with some of the recent launches employing (somewhat) novel and expensive molecules. Even David Beckhams' (a euro celeb) Instinct is not a bad effort (and uses an expensive synthetic musk, L-muscone, from Takasago)..
    Last edited by zztopp; 14th February 2009 at 02:41 AM.
    -

  11. #11

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    If anything, the anemic celeb fragrance genre has recently improved a bit with some of the recent launches employing (somewhat) novel and expensive molecules. Even David Beckhams' (a euro celeb) Instinct is not a bad effort (and uses an expensive synthetic musk, L-muscone, from Takasago)..
    Indeed, and two Beckhams have a decent rating in The Guide: Intimately (both) got three stars. He does mention Jeniffer Lopez (Deseo***) and Sarah Jessica Parker as exemptions here. Lovely**** has been reviewed by TS and LT in the Guide. I don't recall a prior article on this topic in the past six years. It therefore appears to have been more than due, and the London smelling session has obviously inspired it. Wouldn't it be something if Burr hosted a 'Scented Dinner' in London some day, and the Turins were there to write about it ?
    Last edited by narcus; 17th February 2009 at 05:17 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Love the fact that the tabloid journalist thought Chanel No. 5 was a celebrity fragrance (Nicole Kidman). LOL.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Just wanted to post the March 2009 Duftnote on "Passionfruit" by Luca Turin.

    http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/d80bd71b-...f770c8404.aspx

    They say Passiflora is a mild hallucinogen, which may explain why the South American missionaries who “discovered” the plant saw in it a crown of thorns, five stamens representing the five wounds of Christ, five petals and five sepals the ten apostles (excluding, handily, Judas and Peter) and three stigmas for the nails on the cross. But the stoned padres ignored a far more cogent proof of the existence of god close by. I write this from Thailand, while tasting passionfruit in full glory. .......
    More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/

  14. #14

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thanks, SMM.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Yes, thanks, SMM! For those who wonder what this molecule (Oxane®) looks like, here is Leffingwell's page. Note that "oxane" is actually widely used as a name fragment, but relatively little-used as the proprietary Firmenich substance. You can look up "Oxane" on Firmenich's website, here. There is some interesting info about its perfumery use.
    * * * *

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I always learn something, reading Turin's columns.

    I'm assuming the way I normally see this fruit spelled (here in the US) is passion fruit not passionfruit.

    This story makes me think about the way thai guava fuit smells, when I eat it. When you peel a thai guava, and if you throw the peel away in your kitchen garbage, the smell that will fill your entire kitchen is quite heavenly. If only I could find a scent that smells like that: tropical, slightly indolic, almost fleshy and floral.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thanks, this is a great one, too, you can tell he was in a good mood.
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    Thanks, as a teen we'd spray Ozium to cover up the smell of marijuana smoke.
    Marijuana smoke usually airs out fairly quickly, as a lot of the compounds responsible for the odor are fairly volatile. Cigarette odor, on the other hand, may never go away.


    That said, fabreeze is the shit.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Luca is terribly confused. The flowers of Passiflora incarnata are used as a mild sedative. They can help someone sleep, period. Hallucinogenic? Big stretch of the imagination, unless dreams are regarded as hallucinations. Of course, extremely high doses can warp you, I guess, but that's best left to the teens who go after datura and brugmansia flowers.

    The padres weren't stoned, they were simply doing what they had done for centuries, analyzing the appearance of the FLOWER and giving it religious significance. BTW, many of the different species of passion flower have a lovely scent.

    That said, Luca then jumps, without clarification, into an analysis of the scent of the FRUIT of Passiflora edulis, or one of the 60 varieties of edible passion fruit http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/n...a_spp_nex.html Was it the yellow or the purple? The quadrangularis? All have different scents. All different flavor profiles, too.

    Tutti fruitti? That's the scent/flavor of -- well, I'll let Luca discover that at a later date ;-)

    http://www.springboard4health.com/no...on_flower.html
    http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/d...ionflower.html
    note not one mention of hallucinogenic hyperbole, in fact, approved by the FDA as food (the flower, not just the fruit.)
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  20. #20

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    April 6, 2009
    Based on a misinterpretation of the NZZ release date, I believed this to be an article written years ago. My bad, and I want to apologize for the delay, and also for comments made in another thread. Neither the facts nor warnings are new. But eight months before the effective date of those changes implemented, this may receive more attention than has been the case during the past years as the broad distribution on other perfume blogs already shows.

    "It now seems fragrance is to be composed not by perfumers, but by an EU committee of experts. What can be done to resist this? There is no point questioning the evidence for and against, or the logic of the EU decision, and here’s why: fragrance has no demonstrable benefit other than beauty. Beauty cannot be measured by environmental chemists, or, to be fair, by any other kind. In the case of medicines, you balance the positive against the negative and call the negative “side-effects”. When there is no perceived benefit, any risk is unacceptable, much as dividing anything by zero gives you infinity....." --> Folio article

    Last edited by narcus; 6th May 2009 at 05:57 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    May 03 / 04 2009
    On fragrance compositions for soap:

    " What happens to the leftovers? They get mixed into a big vat, thirty tons each year, and sold under the elegantly cynical name of Millefleurs. I asked to smell it and was offered smelling strips dipped in the last four batches, each randomly different. They smelled better than many things made on purpose. Every company has its own Millefleurs, and each apparently has a house style. Who buys the stuff ? North African soap makers, who pay € 1.50 per kg for it, i.e. at least twenty times cheaper than the cheapest proper fragrance. Henkel tried to up the price to € 1.80 recently and found no takers. It is wonderful to think that the perfumery product most closely approaching an unrepeatable limited edition is also the cheapest." --> Folio article

    Last edited by narcus; 7th June 2009 at 11:51 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    This is similar to what happens to the leftovers at vineyards and while most of what is produced is pretty pedestrian every once in awhile there is something pretty good that would be entirely unable to be replicated.
    The same must be true for these "millefleurs".
    It would be fun to sniff a few of these.
    More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/

  23. #23

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I can't access the Millefleurs article. "The page cannot be found" error.
    -

  24. #24

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    ***
    Last edited by scentemental; 6th May 2009 at 06:00 AM.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    May 03 / 04 2009
    Fascinating stuff, thanks so much for the link.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    I can't access the Millefleurs article. "The page cannot be found" error.
    Thanks for the error report, ZZ. I would probably never have known otherwise! I was only wondering why this thread had 90 visitors in two days but only 1 comment . It should now be ok.

    I had linked this article to the pre-release version on Sunday, because I knew I couldn't do it on 'first Monday' when the printed version was published. What may have happened: between the pre-release and now: NZZ changed the link to the final English version. The link to the German language version remained intact, and next time a problem occurs you could try that one and switch to the English version from the German page / "Artikel in English" ).

    @ SMM: Isn't the difference that vineyard leftovers are decaying almost immediately?

    Some of that chemical 'waste' smells absolutely wonderful as my friend David reports from a factory near Grasse (he lives in southern France now). We had been discussing the myth about the trash yard of that site where countless containers, big and small, rot in the open, distributing pleasant, mostly floral smells. It appeared to be strange that the small containers regularly still contain perfumey smelling liquids. We had concluded that they must be left overs of some cosmetic compounds. And now Turin has the answer just in the right moment! We now needn't worry why 'such waste' occurs, what ultimately happens to it, and if it could be contaminated. Maybe there is a door to a new, small business? David had already been selling his own soaps before. I must let him know!
    Last edited by narcus; 6th May 2009 at 07:48 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Now I know how "millefleurs" came about. Very interesting! Thanks for the link.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Lol. Fantastic
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

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  29. #29
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I agree - witty and incredibly fascinating stuff. I crave little tidbits of knowledge about the perfume industry like this. Probably why I read everything that Turin writes.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  30. #30

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Although Duftnote never was a main column for writing reviews (in German), he did release them occasionally in Folio, too. Of course, at about the time when the idea of his second perfume guide took shape, reviews ceased to appear here. And these reviews were not one liners, Mike! If I find a quiet moment, I'll write links for them in a couple of posts (later this year).
    Last edited by narcus; 8th May 2009 at 07:25 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I agree - witty and incredibly fascinating stuff. I crave little tidbits of knowledge about the perfume industry like this. Probably why I read everything that Turin writes.
    I love his writing, too. I always learn something very interesting...chuckling the whole while.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    @ SMM: Isn't the difference that vineyard leftovers are decaying almost immediately?
    Not really almost all of a vineyard's grape harvest will get crushed and turned into juice which will in some cases get shipped off in a tank car. If you've ever visited Napa you will see thes big oil tanker looking railroad cars with a purple stain around their hatch.
    The analogy to millefleur is a vineyard might plant a blending grape and at the discretion of the winemaker might only need a small amount of that blending grape. The remainder is small enough that they might play around with using the blending grape in a combination with the remainder of two or three other grapes to see what they can make of it. It usually only ends up being a barrel or two's worth and it is mostly a complete shot in the dark but it can sometimes be interesting.
    More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/

  33. #33
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    Although Duftnote never was a main column for writing reviews (in German), he did release them occasionally in Folio, too. Of course, at about the time when the idea of his second perfume guide took shape, reviews ceased to appear here. And these reviews were not one liners, Mike! If I find a quiet moment, I'll write links for them in a couple of posts (later this year).
    Thanks narcus, however I've already gone backwards and copied-and-pasted all of Turin's NZZ folio columns into a Word document on my computer...as a handy cross-reference whenever I need to refer to them.

    And yes, I treasure the ones that were full page fragrance reviews the most. In fact the very 1st column is a fragrance review of Blue Stratos (which BTW I still have not smelled).
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

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  34. #34

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Zurich - Celebrating 40 years with pride

    June 6 - 7 2009



    Duftnote - Magic Moments


    " .... A week’s worth of Tide fragrance oil is probably worth ten years of Patou’s turnover, yet every penny spent by soap makers on fragrance compositions is scrutinized as if it were a gold sovereign. Does it have to be so? Why doesn’t Guerlain make a luxury fabric softener? Probably because we wouldn’t buy it. Objects too have their castes, and we seem to like it that way: telephones must do a poor job of reproducing the human voice, burgers should be greasy, car dashboards should be plastic pretending to be leather, washing products should smell pleasant but obedient, unadorned—in one word, deferential. To borrow a Victorian phrase, they should know their place, below stairs." >> Folio article

    (please note: this is a pre-release of the print version due out tomorrow. Like before, the link may have to be adjusted within the next 24 hours )



    German version of article: Magische Momente


    Last edited by narcus; 7th June 2009 at 12:04 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    excellent read. Thanks for posting, Narcus!
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  36. #36

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    My pleasure, as always, Marcello!
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  37. #37

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thanks for this month's post, narcus. I think I will buy that Patou soap I saw stuck in a funky pahrmacy in Kowloon . . . and the Vent Vert.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Lucky you, living in shoppers paradise !
    Patou soap should be nice. I must ask if they have that here too. I have always thought that some mass market shave foams smell pretty nice too, for example Nivea (herbal) and the current Gilette for sensitive skin (chypre). The clean laundry smell, however, is either agressive or terribly 'pink' over here. 4711 would be 100% nicer! But there are so many single households nowadays, why not go gender specific for laundry, Bayer, or procter and G?
    Last edited by narcus; 8th June 2009 at 10:20 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  39. #39
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    "...space is always a luxury, even if you merely intend to fill it with dirty laundry."
    Man, I never tire of reading his stuff. You could just pull a random line out of his writing, and use it as, say, a brilliant opener in a stowaway story! Thanks for the link, narcus.
    * * * *

  40. #40

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I like how like a 'typical' european he guffaws at everything massive in America...food portions, cities, washing machines, people. So the main point of the article is that between competing products which do an equally good job, the 'perfume' can be the differentiator ! Paradoxically in the perfume industry, between two fairly nice smelling fragrances the bottle can be the differentiator !
    -

  41. #41

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    Lucky you, living in shoppers paradise !
    Patou soap should be nice. I must ask if they have that here too. I have always thought that some mass market shave foams smell pretty nice too, for example Nivea (herbal) and the current Gilette for sensitive skin (chypre). The clean laundry smell, however, is either agressive or terribly 'pink' over here. 4711 would be 100% nicer! But there are so many single households nowadays, why not go gender specific for laundry, Bayer, or procter and G?

    Olay came out with a beautiful rose and jasmine soap around the same time P & G bought Patou. They appear to have discontinued it, though.

    Laundry detergents are either very aggressively scented in the US or unscented. The fragrance of scented detergents seems to have become much stronger lately. Tide Simple Pleasures Lavender and Vanilla detergent has more sillage than most of my perfumes.

  42. #42

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I agree about the strength of the scent of laundry detergents lately. Sheesh!

    My huge American washer & dryer were designed by Bosch, a German company I believe. I suppose they were designed for an American market...and manufactured and assembled who knows where...but I still can't comfortably fit a King sized blanket in. I have to cram it in and it doesn't wash or dry very well that way. Maybe they forgot that we also have great big beds here in America.
    Last edited by lilybelle; 13th June 2009 at 10:47 PM.

  43. #43

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    I agree about the strength of the scent of laundry detergents lately. Sheesh!

    My huge American washer & dryer were designed by Bosch, a German company I believe. I suppose they were designed for an American market...and manufactured and assembled who knows where...but I still can't comfortably fit a King sized blanket in. I have to cram it in and it doesn't wash or dry very well that way. Maybe they forgot that we also have great big beds here in America.
    Thanks for oyur interesting comment! From electric drill to car dynamos to kitchen appliances ...Bosch is the brand in Germany and across part of the continent, that's true. I don't know what 'king size' is in cm but 240 to 260cm is about the max size of a matrimonium over here. One sheet for those and two pillow covers will fill the standard machine. We don't use such big blankets but the Scandinavian type of a plumeaux, i. e. the light things filled with the smallest of duck or goose feathers, and you don't wash these plumeaux, you see? And if people use blankets they will very likely be made of lambswool over here. Again: dry cleaned occasionally, not treated like laundry. I know those blankets from US hotel rooms, and they were probably from Dupont rather than sheep. I never spent a thought on how these things are cleaned. Now I know !
    Last edited by narcus; 15th June 2009 at 06:32 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  44. #44

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    Thanks for oyur interesting comment! From electric drill to car dynamos to kitchen appliances ...Bosch is the brand in Germany and across part of the continent, that's true. I don't know what 'king size' is in cm but 240 to 260cm is about the max size of a matrimonium over here. One sheet for those and two pillow covers will fill the standard machine. We don't use such big blankets but the Scandinavian type of a plumeaux, i. e. the light things filled with the smallest of duck or goose feathers, and you don't wash these plumeaux, you see? And if people use blankets they will very likely be made of lambswool over here. Again: dry cleaned occasionally, not treated like laundry. I know those blankets from US hotel rooms, and they were probably from Dupont rather than sheep. I never spent a thought on how these things are cleaned. Now I know !
    Narcus, a king sized comforter here is approximately 280 x 240 inches cm. It varies, depending on manufacturer. No, I don't wash wool or down filled either. I meant "blanket" in a catch-all way. We use cotton quilts, and comforters that are whatever synthetic light-weight material that are lofty & puffy, and that can be machine washed. I like to be able to machine wash them because of my dog...damp paws, chewy treats, drool spots - our bed is "her" bed! I LOVE my Bosch machines, but they are a bit more finicky and sensitve than our old style ones. More energy efficient, though, and my goodness does that washer's spin cycle go fast! Like a Mercedes engine! Lol! Gotta love that German engineering, no matter what.
    Last edited by lilybelle; 15th June 2009 at 07:41 PM.

  45. #45

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    I like to be able to machine wash them because of my dog...damp paws, chewy treats, drool spots - our bed is "her" bed!
    I never argue with pet lovers! :wave:
    Last edited by narcus; 17th June 2009 at 09:01 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  46. #46

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thanks Narcus, always interesting.

  47. #47

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    So glad to see you here right now, afraafra !
    Last edited by narcus; 26th June 2009 at 08:14 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  48. #48

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    July 6 - 2009


    One way functions



    I have never gone to perfume school, and it is sadly too late for me to do so, but I can imagine how the student perfumer feels
    when first given access to the full palette of raw materials. When I was nine years old, I used to sit at a Bechstein concert grand
    that belonged to family friends and, as the British say, “tickle the ivories”. Even simple chords were so beautiful, especially with
    the sustain pedal held down, that it was easy to understand why sung polyphony was the greatest hit for centuries. But the
    strange thing was how different the component notes of a chord were from the chord itself, how mysterious the added magic
    of playing them together. A chord never felt like the sum of its parts, some other operation seemed to be at work.
    >
    to read it all...





    The German version: Eins und eins gleich drei
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  49. #49

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thank you, Narcus.

  50. #50

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thanks Narcus - always look forward to this popping up, like Mike's NYT Chandler Burr links. I could easily google them myself but it sort of takes the fun out of it somehow . . .

    Also nice to get this one day after receiving the 'no more Guide' email. I like the reference to music (my field) in this one and also the old school trick about identifying components he mentions. It's similar to isolating a vocal from a recording - if you happen to have an identical segment of the music backing without the vocal and play it alongside the vocal section you can rig it so that phase cancellation will kick in and you're left with just the vocal - the other elements cancel each other out . . . more or less.

    Hmmm - sorry about the little riff there - reading Turin does tend to set me off - and he listens to Gismonti too . . .

  51. #51
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thank you Narcus.

  52. #52

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Absolutely Fasci-f***-ing-nating.

    A musical sound is made up from a fundemantal frequency (the main note) and many other frequencies called harmonics. The interaction of the fundementals in a chord is quite complicated in itself, let alone when you add in the harmonics. The reason that notes of a chord sound good together is a combination of mathematical ratios and cultural programming. The mathematical ratios (e.g. a ratio of 2:3 from root to fifth) ground music in the physical behaviour of the world and explain our fascination with music as another way into discovering how it works through our sensory interface.The cultural factors are demonstated by different ways of dividing up the universal physical relationships across the globe and also in Western European Art Music the adoption of the "equal temprament" system which came with the invention of the piano and means that the ratios involved are never completely accurate (especially on a piano other instruments and voices vary)

    I have an instinctive feeling that olfaction works in a similar way and *believe and hope* that Turin is correct with his vibrational theory - but we all know that instinct is unreliable and science has brought much enlightenment which has contradicted commonly held instictual beliefs.
    Last edited by hirch_duckfinder; 6th July 2009 at 05:50 PM.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

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  53. #53

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    "But how did they copy fragrances in the old days? An old perfumer told me that you could do it by identifying one raw material, smelling it pure to desensitize your nose, smelling the original mix again from which that one would now be “missing”, identifying another etc. "

    Well I'll be a darned perfume monkey...thats how I had been approaching my analysis of fragrances !
    -

  54. #54

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Luca's words are as good as gold, always.

  55. #55
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    "But how did they copy fragrances in the old days? An old perfumer told me that you could do it by identifying one raw material, smelling it pure to desensitize your nose, smelling the original mix again from which that one would now be “missing”, identifying another etc. "

    Well I'll be a darned perfume monkey...thats how I had been approaching my analysis of fragrances !
    Yes - and I do a similar trick of perfume subtraction with similar fragrances, in order to isolate their differences. It also works for detecting changes in fragrance samples, etc.

    Personally, I think this is one of his Turin's best ever. More than any, this one gets me thinking.

    The analogy to public key cryptography is beautiful. Not only is that an amazing observation, but it seems potentially useful in a deeper understanding of olfaction. It can be extended in a lot of ways, including ones which are even more cryptographically and mathematically rigorous. This is going to keep me very busy.

    Damn you, Luca. I was planning on sleeping tonight!
    * * * *

  56. #56

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    very interesting. but, as a realtor, i can smell a "Febreezed" house the minute i walk through the front door. fools no one.......
    beauty guru & perfume whisperer
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  57. #57

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    August 3, 2009, completing 6 x 12 months of Scent Notes. Thank you, Dr. Turin, Dr. Daniel Weber in Zurich, and Robin Cackett, your German translator in Berlin! Here is to your health Gentlemen, and to more bi-lingual Scent Notes in Folio, Zurich!


    Notes from the Nose -- At the Dragon Zoo

    By Luca Turin

    Airplanes are as large and loud as the dragons of yore. And, thanks to the imperfections of fuel distillation, they also smell highly evocative.
    Piston engines burn all the fuel they’re fed and just smell of smoke. Jet engines are sloppy until warm and spit out a lot of unburned fuel at idle,
    hence the smell. If distillation of petroleum were perfect,
    kerosene would be made up only of heavy molecules, and would have almost no smell.
    But no one
    can afford perfumery-grade stills for mere fuel, so kerosene contains the petroleum equivalent of cognac, a mixture of indenes,
    tetralins and alkylbenzenes.......
    To read it all...


    The German version: Duftnote -- Im Drachenzoo




    This month's issue of NZZ magazine is devoted to traveling by air, and focuses on the the popular daily flight LX 14 from Zurich to New York.
    "
    We chose LX 14. An unexceptional flight on an unexceptional day on one of the most important and busiest air routes in the world: across the North Atlantic, from Zurich to New York. We wanted to know who the people were who had made this flight possible, what it had taken to do so, who ended up aboard and what the crew and the passengers did for the eight hours and five minutes that they all spent together on Tuesday, 12 May. - And what did we discover? That a lot has to happen to ensure nothing happens. So fasten your seat belt, please!"

    Obviously Luca Turin had been asked to contribute something suitable for this special issue.
    It completes six years of a very fruitful and unique cooperation between one of the most prestigious cultural magazines in Europe and Dr. L. Turin who is more than a scientist and expert in a given field, a true European and a citizen of the world. The first essay in his Scent Notes column ( Duftnote) was published in September 2003. It described "The Fall of the House of Guerlain" - and thus helped preventing it.


    Off perfume: Articles on the daily cross Atlantic flight 'LX14' :


    Part 1: Two hundred tonnes take off

    “Swiss” flight LX 14 hurtles down the runway with the force of a hundred Ferraris.
    Between here and New York, its 115 passengers are all under the rule of Captain
    Luciano Covolan. He won’t just fly them there; he can have them apprehended if
    necessary.

    Part 2: Lunch over London
    13:49. Luciano Covolan engaged the *autopilot soon after take-off. Of the entire
    eight-hour journey, he will spend only a few minutes flying the aircraft manually.
    Soon after take-off, LX14 is transformed into a restaurant, albeit one that’s racing
    through the air at 900 kilometres an hour. Economy Class travellers are offered
    Meal 1 or Meal 2; up front, there are six-and-a-half kilos of food to choose from for
    each First Class guest.

    Part 3: The transatlantic highway
    16:38. First Officer Marc Schroeder has little to do while LX 14 is over the water.
    Above 10,000 feet, “Swiss” regulations allow the cockpit crew day-to-day conversation,
    too.
    LX 14 is crossing the ocean on one of 63 routes that were only devised the night
    before. After lunch, the cabin lights are turned off. Many passengers opt to sleep a
    little now; and in Business Class, they can do so in seats that cost as much as a
    mid-range car.

    Part 4: Where time stands still
    19:23. Claudine von Gunten on the internal phone. People would be amazed at
    how loud she could shout out her commands if she had to in an emergency.
    It’s all down to time zones:
    over Canada now, it’s the same time aboard LX 14 as when it took off from Zurich six hours ago .
    The captain changed his watch to New York time at 30 degrees west. But when it comes to jet lag,
    even the professional flyers have no set recipe.

    Part 5: Big Apple ahead
    20:55. Ten hours after the crew briefing, flight attendant Regina Hofer’s working day is drawing
    to a close.
    It’s not till four minutes before landing on John F. Kennedy Airport’s Runway 31R
    that Commander Covolan *disengages the autopilot and takes over himself. The Manhattan
    skyline can be made out from the *cockpit. Dangerous flocks of birds are reassuringly absent from
    the scene.
    Last edited by narcus; 4th August 2009 at 07:52 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  58. #58
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thanks narcus.

    Just got off a plane last night, so this post was very timely for me. I love that 'entering the plane' smell...there's nothing like it, except perhaps Nostalgia by Santa Maria Novella.

  59. #59

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I shall finally have to go and test Nostalgia !

    Remember what he wrote about the French Caravelle a year ago ?
    I was either not impressed or have never been booked on Air France and completely missed that ominous cologne smell.
    Last edited by narcus; 4th August 2009 at 07:56 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  60. #60

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009


    The man can write.

    scentemental

    Last edited by scentemental; 3rd August 2009 at 09:05 PM.

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