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  1. #1

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Luca Turin
    January 5, 2009


    Purification


    .....Then, without much fuss, after centuries of rituals there came technology. Procter and Gamble’s Febreze contains cyclodextrins, cup-shaped molecules that actually attach to odors. Oddly, as a sort of homage to past magic, P&G still puts fragrance in it, which must complicate things. The stuff works so well guys in the US spray their clothes with it instead of washing them, a fine example of unintended consequences of both magic and technology.

    Last edited by narcus; 7th June 2009 at 10:52 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thanks, as a teen we'd spray Ozium to cover up the smell of marijuana smoke.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I used an entire bottle of Febreze while unpacking things that had been in storage for over a year. My mother's recommendation - spritz Febreze all over the item (soft things like cushions and throws) and then let it whirl around in the drier for 20 minutes or so. It worked like a charm to eliminate musty storage odors. I wonder why they don't make a scentless one.

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I hope I can find Febreeze and will certainly try it. I hate to have my best sweaters dry cleaned or washed. A dry cleaned Suede clothes are just not the same any more. I really only want the lining of coats and jackets to be odorless.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Febreeze is fantastic stuff - gets out the smell of smoky bars, which is miraculous. If you can't find any, let me know and next time I go to the UK I'll get you a bottle and post it to you. Not too much of a problem since I'm just up the road in the Weinland.
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thanks, Wordbird. Coop has it. They seem to have a Melon, and a Spring Freshness version, and some Rose. I don't mind Rose if it's from Patou, but hate the cheap smelling ones . What do you think is the least offensive? (Your Avatar looks somehow familiar to me, but it's new?)
    Last edited by narcus; 15th January 2009 at 08:39 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I believe Febreze is more of a temporary solution to mal-odors. The cyclodextrin molecules engulf the odorous molecules, and then stays dormant for a period of time (and hence the nose can't detect the bad smell)...after this, I am not sure if the odor molecule evaporates alongwith the febreze molecule or is liberated instead, resulting in a return of the bad odor..

    A hilarious discussion here: http://blogtown.portlandmercury.com/...w_does_feb.php
    -

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    I believe Febreze is more of a temporary solution to mal-odors. The cyclodextrin molecules engulf the odorous molecules, and then stays dormant for a period of time (and hence the nose can't detect the bad smell)...after this, I am not sure if the odor molecule evaporates alongwith the febreze molecule or is liberated instead, resulting in a return of the bad odor..

    A hilarious discussion here: http://blogtown.portlandmercury.com/...w_does_feb.php
    LMAO - loved that!

    CAN YOU FABREZE FABREZE?!
    Little does he know that he could start a whole branch of chemistry on that one...

    It seems that if you heat the cyclodextrins after inclusion of the odor molecules, you can re-release the odor. Otherwise, because the exterior surface of the cyclodextrin is hydrophilic (likes water), I imagine that the cyclodextrin-encased odor just washes away. Off to some nasty place where bacteria munch away on both the Febreeze and the odor.

    I think of cyclodextrins as a tank-sized tire boot for the little sports cars of odor. Clunk. "You ain't going anywhere, Stinky McAcid." The the Great Flood comes along and washes everything into the Sea of Kenmore. All Hail Febreeze! Or something like that.

    OK - here's the second US patent for Febreeze: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6284231.html

    Looks like it explains why these people in the ads are always getting frisky with stuff after they spray it. You can load the cyclodextrins with pleasant perfumes, that are released (basically exchanged) with the entrapment of the malodorous molecules. The more stink you trap, the more good scent is released. They make sure that there's not too much of it, so that lots of open cyclodextrins are available, and that the perfume isn't something that the cyclodextrins are really going to like. Pretty ingenious, if you ask me.
    * * * *

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    February 2, 2009

    Celebrity


    .....They trade the elusive quality of being, as opposed to merely having. The rich want fame, and the famous want cash.
    It is arguably more common to be rich and obscure than poor and famous, and in any event fame can be converted into
    money more easily than the other way around: consider what Paris Hilton had to endure to go from stinking rich to
    stinking famous.




    Last edited by narcus; 7th June 2009 at 10:52 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    February 2, 2009

    Celebrity



    .....They trade the elusive quality of being, as opposed to merely having. The rich want fame, and the famous want cash.
    It is arguably more common to be rich and obscure than poor and famous, and in any event fame can be converted into
    money more easily than the other way around: consider what Paris Hilton had to endure to go from stinking rich to
    stinking famous.






    Was a "Daftnote" article on this topic necessary ? Perhaps Turin could have provided his skillful insight into a different scent industry (hot) topic instead of stating the obvious. If anything, the anemic celeb fragrance genre has recently improved a bit with some of the recent launches employing (somewhat) novel and expensive molecules. Even David Beckhams' (a euro celeb) Instinct is not a bad effort (and uses an expensive synthetic musk, L-muscone, from Takasago)..
    Last edited by zztopp; 14th February 2009 at 01:41 AM.
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    If anything, the anemic celeb fragrance genre has recently improved a bit with some of the recent launches employing (somewhat) novel and expensive molecules. Even David Beckhams' (a euro celeb) Instinct is not a bad effort (and uses an expensive synthetic musk, L-muscone, from Takasago)..
    Indeed, and two Beckhams have a decent rating in The Guide: Intimately (both) got three stars. He does mention Jeniffer Lopez (Deseo***) and Sarah Jessica Parker as exemptions here. Lovely**** has been reviewed by TS and LT in the Guide. I don't recall a prior article on this topic in the past six years. It therefore appears to have been more than due, and the London smelling session has obviously inspired it. Wouldn't it be something if Burr hosted a 'Scented Dinner' in London some day, and the Turins were there to write about it ?
    Last edited by narcus; 17th February 2009 at 04:17 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Love the fact that the tabloid journalist thought Chanel No. 5 was a celebrity fragrance (Nicole Kidman). LOL.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Just wanted to post the March 2009 Duftnote on "Passionfruit" by Luca Turin.

    http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/d80bd71b-...f770c8404.aspx

    They say Passiflora is a mild hallucinogen, which may explain why the South American missionaries who “discovered” the plant saw in it a crown of thorns, five stamens representing the five wounds of Christ, five petals and five sepals the ten apostles (excluding, handily, Judas and Peter) and three stigmas for the nails on the cross. But the stoned padres ignored a far more cogent proof of the existence of god close by. I write this from Thailand, while tasting passionfruit in full glory. .......
    More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/

  14. #14

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thanks, SMM.

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Yes, thanks, SMM! For those who wonder what this molecule (Oxane®) looks like, here is Leffingwell's page. Note that "oxane" is actually widely used as a name fragment, but relatively little-used as the proprietary Firmenich substance. You can look up "Oxane" on Firmenich's website, here. There is some interesting info about its perfumery use.
    * * * *

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I always learn something, reading Turin's columns.

    I'm assuming the way I normally see this fruit spelled (here in the US) is passion fruit not passionfruit.

    This story makes me think about the way thai guava fuit smells, when I eat it. When you peel a thai guava, and if you throw the peel away in your kitchen garbage, the smell that will fill your entire kitchen is quite heavenly. If only I could find a scent that smells like that: tropical, slightly indolic, almost fleshy and floral.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  17. #17

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Thanks, this is a great one, too, you can tell he was in a good mood.
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    Thanks, as a teen we'd spray Ozium to cover up the smell of marijuana smoke.
    Marijuana smoke usually airs out fairly quickly, as a lot of the compounds responsible for the odor are fairly volatile. Cigarette odor, on the other hand, may never go away.


    That said, fabreeze is the shit.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Luca is terribly confused. The flowers of Passiflora incarnata are used as a mild sedative. They can help someone sleep, period. Hallucinogenic? Big stretch of the imagination, unless dreams are regarded as hallucinations. Of course, extremely high doses can warp you, I guess, but that's best left to the teens who go after datura and brugmansia flowers.

    The padres weren't stoned, they were simply doing what they had done for centuries, analyzing the appearance of the FLOWER and giving it religious significance. BTW, many of the different species of passion flower have a lovely scent.

    That said, Luca then jumps, without clarification, into an analysis of the scent of the FRUIT of Passiflora edulis, or one of the 60 varieties of edible passion fruit http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/n...a_spp_nex.html Was it the yellow or the purple? The quadrangularis? All have different scents. All different flavor profiles, too.

    Tutti fruitti? That's the scent/flavor of -- well, I'll let Luca discover that at a later date ;-)

    http://www.springboard4health.com/no...on_flower.html
    http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/d...ionflower.html
    note not one mention of hallucinogenic hyperbole, in fact, approved by the FDA as food (the flower, not just the fruit.)
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  20. #20

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    April 6, 2009
    Based on a misinterpretation of the NZZ release date, I believed this to be an article written years ago. My bad, and I want to apologize for the delay, and also for comments made in another thread. Neither the facts nor warnings are new. But eight months before the effective date of those changes implemented, this may receive more attention than has been the case during the past years as the broad distribution on other perfume blogs already shows.

    "It now seems fragrance is to be composed not by perfumers, but by an EU committee of experts. What can be done to resist this? There is no point questioning the evidence for and against, or the logic of the EU decision, and here’s why: fragrance has no demonstrable benefit other than beauty. Beauty cannot be measured by environmental chemists, or, to be fair, by any other kind. In the case of medicines, you balance the positive against the negative and call the negative “side-effects”. When there is no perceived benefit, any risk is unacceptable, much as dividing anything by zero gives you infinity....." --> Folio article

    Last edited by narcus; 6th May 2009 at 04:57 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    May 03 / 04 2009
    On fragrance compositions for soap:

    " What happens to the leftovers? They get mixed into a big vat, thirty tons each year, and sold under the elegantly cynical name of Millefleurs. I asked to smell it and was offered smelling strips dipped in the last four batches, each randomly different. They smelled better than many things made on purpose. Every company has its own Millefleurs, and each apparently has a house style. Who buys the stuff ? North African soap makers, who pay € 1.50 per kg for it, i.e. at least twenty times cheaper than the cheapest proper fragrance. Henkel tried to up the price to € 1.80 recently and found no takers. It is wonderful to think that the perfumery product most closely approaching an unrepeatable limited edition is also the cheapest." --> Folio article

    Last edited by narcus; 7th June 2009 at 10:51 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    This is similar to what happens to the leftovers at vineyards and while most of what is produced is pretty pedestrian every once in awhile there is something pretty good that would be entirely unable to be replicated.
    The same must be true for these "millefleurs".
    It would be fun to sniff a few of these.
    More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I can't access the Millefleurs article. "The page cannot be found" error.
    -

  24. #24

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    ***
    Last edited by scentemental; 6th May 2009 at 05:00 AM.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    May 03 / 04 2009
    Fascinating stuff, thanks so much for the link.

  26. #26

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    I can't access the Millefleurs article. "The page cannot be found" error.
    Thanks for the error report, ZZ. I would probably never have known otherwise! I was only wondering why this thread had 90 visitors in two days but only 1 comment . It should now be ok.

    I had linked this article to the pre-release version on Sunday, because I knew I couldn't do it on 'first Monday' when the printed version was published. What may have happened: between the pre-release and now: NZZ changed the link to the final English version. The link to the German language version remained intact, and next time a problem occurs you could try that one and switch to the English version from the German page / "Artikel in English" ).

    @ SMM: Isn't the difference that vineyard leftovers are decaying almost immediately?

    Some of that chemical 'waste' smells absolutely wonderful as my friend David reports from a factory near Grasse (he lives in southern France now). We had been discussing the myth about the trash yard of that site where countless containers, big and small, rot in the open, distributing pleasant, mostly floral smells. It appeared to be strange that the small containers regularly still contain perfumey smelling liquids. We had concluded that they must be left overs of some cosmetic compounds. And now Turin has the answer just in the right moment! We now needn't worry why 'such waste' occurs, what ultimately happens to it, and if it could be contaminated. Maybe there is a door to a new, small business? David had already been selling his own soaps before. I must let him know!
    Last edited by narcus; 6th May 2009 at 06:48 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Now I know how "millefleurs" came about. Very interesting! Thanks for the link.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Lol. Fantastic
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

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  29. #29
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    I agree - witty and incredibly fascinating stuff. I crave little tidbits of knowledge about the perfume industry like this. Probably why I read everything that Turin writes.
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

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  30. #30

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio 2009

    Although Duftnote never was a main column for writing reviews (in German), he did release them occasionally in Folio, too. Of course, at about the time when the idea of his second perfume guide took shape, reviews ceased to appear here. And these reviews were not one liners, Mike! If I find a quiet moment, I'll write links for them in a couple of posts (later this year).
    Last edited by narcus; 8th May 2009 at 06:25 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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